Help with tank removal (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Arm Auto
- Start date
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Should be fairly simple as far as the tank straps and hoses. Make sure to remove the sending unit; be sure to remove second row and pull back the carpet. That grey cover needs to come off, then you detach the hoses and what not.
inkpot
SILVER Star
Not too bad if you have a helper underneath. After pulling the goodies up top as mentioned, drop the straps and the cover and slowly lower the tank. Detach filler tube and breather breather before dropping all the way. Some remove rear driveshaft, but we dont.
Anyone know how far you need to jack up the body in order to get the filler neck in and out in one piece? I have heard that you can just removed the fasteners on the two most rearward sets of body mounts but it would be nice to know for sure before I kink the body somehow.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I just did this last month. My truck is nearly rust free, however, the tank bands were impossible to unbolt.
I'll post a list of "what to do while you're in there" items later today, if you're not in a hurry. If you are, here are the main points from my experience:
1. Make sure you clean the fuel pump access panel BEFORE you remove the screws. If you don't, you WILL get trash in your tank and it's not easy to clean. Well, it is as long as you have an hour to wash the whole damn thing out.
2. DO NOT use a US Phillips screwdriver (you knew that already right?) Use either an 8-mm socket or a JIS screwdriver. Vessel makes them for Toyota, so if you get a Toyota branded 100-mm screwdriver, it's a Vessel 900 series Megadora. Hozan also makes them. They are worth the money. They're good for the spark plug covers, too.
3. DO NOT try to empty the tank from the filler neck, it's too long and not worth the trouble. Run the gas out, as much as you can, then siphon it from the fuel pump access hole. I used a disposable (for me) hand siphon pump from HD ($20). It's not made for fuel service, but it'll pump a couple of gallons before the seals degrade.
4. I removed the rear propeller shaft (now's a good time to lube the bearings/spline and check/replace as needed) I've heard you can get the tank out without doing this, but I couldn't.
5. Spray the band connector bolts (2 each) every day for at least a week prior to removal with a rust remover. PB blaster is OK, Ed's red is better (50/50 kerosene/ATF); mix in some paraffin wax and you'll get ahead of the rust that forms as soon as you remove the old rust)
NOTE: I failed to do this and had to replace both short band halves (the ones with the weldnuts) PITA The bands are really thin sheetmetal and if you twist them, you'll stress the steel beyond the plastic range. You do not want to retwist them and put them back in.
NOTE: the rearmost band bolt/body will come out, the front one will not. It's too long to get out between the body and frame. You'll have to cut it short to remove it; not a problem because it's longer than it needs to be, but just so you know.
The body bolts aren't likely to be rusted; they go into a protected body panel void. The heads may round off and I have part numbers for them, as well as everything else.
6. Nothing holds the skid plate on; it's wedged between the bands and tank. Plan ahead. You can do this yourself, but an extra pair of hands is helpful.
7. Remove the filler tubes from the tank, not the body.
8. You should really consider replacing all the hoses, gaskets and clamps while you're doing this. You will not want to do it again, and all of them are old.
9. You should consider replacing the LSBPV now, even if it's not leaking. It's much easier to do with the tank out. You're supposed to be able to remove it from the bracket, but you won't be able to if there is the least amount of rust on the strap bolt. Removing it from the bracket on a bench is much easier. You really can't reach the bracket bolts well, unless the tank is out. (This is why I removed my tank. I dropped one of the bracket bolts between the tank and skid plate when I was reinstalling it. PITA)
10. Last but not least, consider repainting the tank and skid plate while they're out.
More to follow.
I'll post a list of "what to do while you're in there" items later today, if you're not in a hurry. If you are, here are the main points from my experience:
1. Make sure you clean the fuel pump access panel BEFORE you remove the screws. If you don't, you WILL get trash in your tank and it's not easy to clean. Well, it is as long as you have an hour to wash the whole damn thing out.
2. DO NOT use a US Phillips screwdriver (you knew that already right?) Use either an 8-mm socket or a JIS screwdriver. Vessel makes them for Toyota, so if you get a Toyota branded 100-mm screwdriver, it's a Vessel 900 series Megadora. Hozan also makes them. They are worth the money. They're good for the spark plug covers, too.
3. DO NOT try to empty the tank from the filler neck, it's too long and not worth the trouble. Run the gas out, as much as you can, then siphon it from the fuel pump access hole. I used a disposable (for me) hand siphon pump from HD ($20). It's not made for fuel service, but it'll pump a couple of gallons before the seals degrade.
4. I removed the rear propeller shaft (now's a good time to lube the bearings/spline and check/replace as needed) I've heard you can get the tank out without doing this, but I couldn't.
5. Spray the band connector bolts (2 each) every day for at least a week prior to removal with a rust remover. PB blaster is OK, Ed's red is better (50/50 kerosene/ATF); mix in some paraffin wax and you'll get ahead of the rust that forms as soon as you remove the old rust)
NOTE: I failed to do this and had to replace both short band halves (the ones with the weldnuts) PITA The bands are really thin sheetmetal and if you twist them, you'll stress the steel beyond the plastic range. You do not want to retwist them and put them back in.
NOTE: the rearmost band bolt/body will come out, the front one will not. It's too long to get out between the body and frame. You'll have to cut it short to remove it; not a problem because it's longer than it needs to be, but just so you know.
The body bolts aren't likely to be rusted; they go into a protected body panel void. The heads may round off and I have part numbers for them, as well as everything else.
6. Nothing holds the skid plate on; it's wedged between the bands and tank. Plan ahead. You can do this yourself, but an extra pair of hands is helpful.
7. Remove the filler tubes from the tank, not the body.
8. You should really consider replacing all the hoses, gaskets and clamps while you're doing this. You will not want to do it again, and all of them are old.
9. You should consider replacing the LSBPV now, even if it's not leaking. It's much easier to do with the tank out. You're supposed to be able to remove it from the bracket, but you won't be able to if there is the least amount of rust on the strap bolt. Removing it from the bracket on a bench is much easier. You really can't reach the bracket bolts well, unless the tank is out. (This is why I removed my tank. I dropped one of the bracket bolts between the tank and skid plate when I was reinstalling it. PITA)
10. Last but not least, consider repainting the tank and skid plate while they're out.
More to follow.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #7
OK, before I go down the road of dropping the tank I thought I would throw this out there:
If the reason I am dropping the tank is to clean it (I have a 6.5TD and run a HD fuel filter that has clogged twice in the last 6 months), can I simply lift the back seat, pull the sending unit, open the plug that Mr T was so kind to put on the bottom of the tank, and flush it with fuel a few times? If that would work, then Id be saving a ton of time. I could even put a camera down there and look around. Thoughts guys?? Thank you!
If the reason I am dropping the tank is to clean it (I have a 6.5TD and run a HD fuel filter that has clogged twice in the last 6 months), can I simply lift the back seat, pull the sending unit, open the plug that Mr T was so kind to put on the bottom of the tank, and flush it with fuel a few times? If that would work, then Id be saving a ton of time. I could even put a camera down there and look around. Thoughts guys?? Thank you!
That will help, but not solve all your problems.
Inside the tank is an area that "houses" the pump assembly to reduce the effect of fuel sloshing. There is a level equalizer pipe in the bottom to allow fuel to flow into that area from the surrounding part of the tank. But to just pour in fuel, it may not work.
On second thought, the main fuel inlet is into the rear of the tank and if your pull the pump out the top, you'll have access to that area so you could slosh some fuel through there as well. Pour fuel in the main inlet and shake the truck, then drain out the bottom. Then pour into the fuel pump opening inside and rinse it out.
Yeah, it's worth a try.
However, unless you're in the rust belt, it's incredibly easy to drop the tank, rinse and replace.
I did the one on my LC, then two months later had to do the one on my 1998 Chrysler T&C minivan. The LC was WAAAAAYYYYYY easier than the minivan.
jfz80
Cruisin’
Definitely paint it
I like the rinse and drain idea if you can collect properly.
All good notes here
Other thoughts:
I never removed straps. Unbolt frame side only. Never had an issue bending and bending back.
Driveshaft not necessary but happy medium is drop diff side only, and bungee to pass side
Have someone around when you drop the tank and reinstall it. I had to drop the tank 4 years ago (3/4 full) mistake #1, and I was layed under it for 15min, calling for my wife until she ventured out to the garage for paper towel when she found me. I didnt want to let it all the way down in fear of breaking hoses. luckily she climbed under and reinstalled the straps while i held it up in position.
Now, when i work on axles, suspension, drivetrain, or other heavy metal parts, i only do it with my wife home in-case something bad happens.
Now, when i work on axles, suspension, drivetrain, or other heavy metal parts, i only do it with my wife home in-case something bad happens.
It has a drain plug on it.....
The minivan's don't.
ALWAYS let someone know if you';re going to be under a car/truck so they can check on you. I had a friend that laid under a car for 4+ hours, but he was dead in the first 10 minutes, as the jack dropped and the transmission pan compressed his chest so he couldn't yell or get out. He suffocated from the weight of the car on his chest.
ya... I learned a lot that day... draining the tank, notifying wife of my work scope, understanding the full scope of the job and planning it out... learned a lot. s*** can go wrong very quickly when wrenching. hope for the best but plan/expect the worst. @BILT4ME your story of your friend can teach more than any FSM or forum.
The hell of it was that he was always a safe guy. Always used jack stands and safety glasses. Except this one time. It was just going to be a quick check..........
- Thread starter
- #14
Great ideas guys!
jfz80 - as far as that paint job goes, I don't think I could come close to matching that masterpiece, so you'll have to settle for flat black
TXBruiser - I'm a safety freak as I do about 95% of my wrenching with my 16 year old son. No way do I take chances with him.
jfz80 - as far as that paint job goes, I don't think I could come close to matching that masterpiece, so you'll have to settle for flat black
TXBruiser - I'm a safety freak as I do about 95% of my wrenching with my 16 year old son. No way do I take chances with him.
dirtyboots
Atrocious Driving
Was able to swap necks with the gap of 4x4 wood block in place of the rear most body mount..loosened all other body mounts to the bottom of the thread...having successfully lifted the body completely off the frame on an 80 series I believe it to be damned difficult to kink the body without some serious force..like I can break a steel rod and the body is straight as an arrow after tweaking damn near everything in amateur and wrong ways..
To the OP you can just drain the fuel from the plug and pull the top cover out. With a decent inspection camera you can see throughout the tank from the top...the slosh basin as described above has a gap that you can manipulate the the camera around with..also wonder if some type of wand low pressure sprayer applied through said gap would rinse the crud out or at least to the drain..sounds like you got the safety mindedness so naturally consider spark fuel static camera and etc..curious if any hoses or etc. upstream could be deteriorating from the inside dumping junk in your lines?
If your gonna drop it alone use a jack, Jack stands and sime wood. The tank won't just fall down. Need to wiggle it around a bit. Support it with scrap wood, jacks and so fourth and then lower the front or back and just keep going till it's down. Use floor jack and jacks stands and wood to push it back up again. That skid plate is separate from the tank. The tank sits in the pan and is not fastened to it. If you have the OEM running boards and stock height springs and you'll need to jack the wagon up some to slide the tank out. It's really not hard to do. Malleus wrote a fine description here. As far as bolting it back up i had to use longer bolts on the passenger side because I couldn't get them started with the original ones. Only because I couldn't separate the the 2 half of each strap due to rust.
Guys I know this post is very old..... just on the off chance that someone picks it up... I had a bit of an issue today were my truck (1HD-T 1992 Jap import 246800mls) lost power and had some very poor gear changes..... this happened for about an hour of countryside driving which is all winding roads here in Ireland... any who the truck finally died which I knew was either a fuel or air issue.... after a bit of investigation I found that the fuel line between the tank and filter head appears to be blocked, my question is would the above info with regards tank removal be the same for the diesel?
In advance thanks for any response / tech support / advice
In advance thanks for any response / tech support / advice
Just found this old thread, hope someone reads it. Rookie question, is it possible to drop the tank with the rear wheels on Rino Ramps? Seems like it may be enough space and perhaps safer and maybe faster than putting the beast on stands? Thanks in advance.
I dropped my tank and reinstalled with no ramps.
Having the driver side on ramps would make it more accessible.
Thx! Didn’t think of using ramps on just one side, clever..
