Help with tank removal (1 Viewer)

[BILT4ME]

Thx! Didn’t think of using ramps on just one side, clever..

Make damn sure to lock your CDL prior to driving it onto the ramps and definitely block both side of both wheels still on the ground and set the parking brake. It only takes ONE wheel slipping to allow it to roll otherwise.

 

[cruizin18]

Make damn sure to lock your CDL prior to driving it onto the ramps and definitely block both side of both wheels still on the ground and set the parking brake. It only takes ONE wheel slipping to allow it to roll otherwise.

Thanks again! Waiting for parts, have rear wheels on ramps and fronts chocked, so won’t be ramping just one side. One other question, it’s prob easier if I remove the driveshaft at least at the rear. I bet there is a fair bit on tension on it, should I worry about that or anything different as I remove the 4 bolts? Anything else I may be missing? I don’t want to do anything stupid. Beginning to think ramps may not be ideal and perhaps my heavy duty stands are better for this work. Thoughts?
thanks in advance.

 

[BILT4ME]

Thanks again! Waiting for parts, have rear wheels on ramps and fronts chocked, so won’t be ramping just one side. One other question, it’s prob easier if I remove the driveshaft at least at the rear. I bet there is a fair bit on tension on it, should I worry about that or anything different as I remove the 4 bolts? Anything else I may be missing? I don’t want to do anything stupid. Beginning to think ramps may not be ideal and perhaps my heavy duty stands are better for this work. Thoughts?
thanks in advance.

You don't NEED to remove the DS and it binds mostly in the front.

If you still want to remove it, again, CDL engaged, parking brake set, wheels chocked.

Bump the shifter into neutral to relieve driveline pressure, make sure it does not want to roll. Place back into park. Then remove DS if you still want.

 

[Phil Zimmer]

Thanks again! Waiting for parts, have rear wheels on ramps and fronts chocked, so won’t be ramping just one side. One other question, it’s prob easier if I remove the driveshaft at least at the rear. I bet there is a fair bit on tension on it, should I worry about that or anything different as I remove the 4 bolts? Anything else I may be missing? I don’t want to do anything stupid. Beginning to think ramps may not be ideal and perhaps my heavy duty stands are better for this work. Thoughts?
thanks in advance.

Where can I find the vent and filler tube rubber couplings?

 

[Malleus]

Any Toyota dealership

 

[smorkington]

Fully removing rear drive shaft is worth it. It will probably take you less time to fully remove it than trying to wiggle the tank in.

 

[arndog]

Im with smorkington, removed the driveshaft when I did mine as it didn't seem like it was coming out with it installed.

 

[Mat Jadamec]

re installing a tank filler tube in one piece, yes this can be done by unbolting the body mounts up to the fire wall. I lifted the body with a jack and a 4x4 block of wood under the aft end of the body just forward of the frame cross member at the rear bumper. I put the jack on a pile of solid cement pavers. It
really is not complicated just lots of bolts to remove and reinstall. We'll worth it if you ask me. Re the residual gas in the tank, I pumped it out the reserve 5 gal with a hand siphon pump attached to the pump out put tube at the top of the tank.