???
There is a line on the flywheel that shows when you are exactly at TDC; all you have to do is make sure you are on the compression stroke of #1 and then turn the engine until the TDC line aligns with the pointer in the timing window.
Help with first start
- Thread starter airon23
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???
There is a line on the flywheel that shows when you are exactly at TDC; all you have to do is make sure you are on the compression stroke of #1 and then turn the engine until the TDC line aligns with the pointer in the timing window.
Do you know what distributor you have? There are seating differences in different marketed distributors, some seat on the block, some seat on the shaft in the bottom of the hole.
- Thread starter
- #23
Okay here is what I have so far. I'm sorry some of the terms you're talking about of compression cycle my simple caveman brain doesn't understand so I'm posting pictures if that helps. (I know what some of you are thinking oh boy he's worse off than I thought lol)
I did get the distributor seated down properly. I unbolted it and then just gave it a little wiggle and it seated itself.
So from these pictures can you tell me if I am good where it is seated now? Or do I have to remove it turn the engine over and then seated again?
Also based on where the distributor is pointed that would appear it's pointed at the number one spark plug is that correct?
I did get the distributor seated down properly. I unbolted it and then just gave it a little wiggle and it seated itself.
So from these pictures can you tell me if I am good where it is seated now? Or do I have to remove it turn the engine over and then seated again?
Also based on where the distributor is pointed that would appear it's pointed at the number one spark plug is that correct?
Okay here is what I have so far. I'm sorry some of the terms you're talking about of compression cycle my simple caveman brain doesn't understand so I'm posting pictures if that helps. (I know what some of you are thinking oh boy he's worse off than I thought lol)
I did get the distributor seated down properly. I unbolted it and then just gave it a little wiggle and it seated itself.
So from these pictures can you tell me if I am good where it is seated now? Or do I have to remove it turn the engine over and then seated again?
View attachment 2405269
View attachment 2405274View attachment 2405271
Also based on where the distributor is pointed that would appear it's pointed at the number one spark plug is that correct?
View attachment 2405272
You might want to look into the FSM procedure for checking TDC, Distributor install and valve adjustment.
This is where the hand crank really helps.
Pardon the long explanation but maybe it will help.
The # 1 piston comes up to the top two times for every for every one revolution of the distributor. If the piston is up on the wrong stroke (compression vs. exhaust) when you insert the distributor, the distributor will be 180 degrees out of time.
Since you have the valve cover off, it is easy to confirm the # 1 piston is at the top on the compression stroke, by checking the two rockers for the # 1 cylinder which are the two furthest forward. They should have a little play in them. I like to just grab the push rod with my thumb and fore finger and rotate and/or wiggle them. Both should be loose. If either are tight then you are on the exhaust stroke which is wrong for setting the distributor. If this is the case, then you will need to rotate the engine one revolution and back to TDC. And when you do that, the rotor on the dizzy will be pointing 180 degrees from where it should be and you will have to remove, rotate 180, and re-insert the dizzy.
And while you are checking for loose push rods, check the # 6-cylinder push rods as well. The # 1 and 6 pistons come up to the top together but are always on opposite strokes. One on compression and one on exhaust. So, when at TDC, only one of them will have two loose push rods. And if you rotate the crank one turn back to TDC, that will reverse. HTH
I would fully expect more experienced and wiser mechanics might disagree....
But in my experiences, if that's where the rotor is pointed when #1 cylinder is at TDC, then make sure when you put the cap on the #1 spark plug is attached to the post over that spot, and you oughta be good.
(I've never understood this idea of people asking if there dizzy is "a tooth off"? Either it fires at the right time or not.)
Theoretically, you could reference a different cylinder, say cylinder #3, make sure it's at TDC, and make sure it's plug wire is right on top of the rotor at that point. It's just easier to document, teach, explain and remember #1, and less likely to accidentally get mixed up with #4 counting wrong...
Yeh, you're right. But I think the confusion comes from those who correctly diagnose “a tooth off” when they are trying to set the timing and the dizzy’s vacuum canister is in a bad position such as interfering with the oil filter. That “tooth off” phrase get’s around and occasionally someone incorrectly believes their rough running engine might be caused due to a “tooth off”.
Great advice so far - and I will 2nd the factory service manual (FSM) you really need to have one, or in the least a Haynes. You will save yourself a lot of time, and potentially catastrophic issues by having one.
Airon ,
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Please PM me for the Password to My Live Real Time Shop Hot Line now , im working late into the night in my shop , and can take your TECH call any time .........
i have ALL print media FSM';s and can shoot you PDF's of anything you need FSM wise ..................
please let me know how i can help in any way .........
True, but if you don't have the distributor engaged with the cam gear in the best place, it could be very inconvenient, such as the vacuum advance hitting/interfering with the engine side cover, and not being able to turn it far enough to time it correctly. In that instance, you will want to pull the dizzy and turn the shaft until a different tooth engages the cam gear. That is why the Factory Service Manual shows it the way it does, with the dizzy rotor pointing closer to the #4 plug than the #3.
- Thread starter
- #35
First thank you everyone for the help and encouragement. My ignorance has definitely been a frustration for me. It is one thing to be able to remove, refresh, replace parts on this thing and put it back together, but a mechanic, it does not make me. So I appreciate the knowledge and experience you've all gained over the years and that you have tried to bestow it on me.
While I've learned a lot about it so far, I'm still struggling to get it to fire up correctly. I tried again yesterday evening but then I had to walk away because I wasn't getting anywhere and I didn't want to kill the battery, or mess anything up if I wasn't getting the oil pressure(which I still don't know nor do I know how to tell other than the gauge which just always reads 'L').
I did get the #1 cylinder both valves loose as mentioned, but here's where I'm not sure if what I did was right (spoiler alert it's wrong because it still didn't work)
rotor was pointed at either #2 or #6 WIRE, I pulled the distributor, using screwdriver turned oil pump to point to #4 CYLINDER more or less, re-seated the distributor so rotor was now pointing to #4 CYLINDER with distributor seated. Plugged everything else back in and tried to start it with no joy. One thing I have not really done is I have not opened the timing cover to make sure it's in place which admittedly could be causing the problem.
I will give it another go this afternoon, but I will have the manual in hand and follow that as closely as possible. I can't be that far off am I? Famous last words.
While I've learned a lot about it so far, I'm still struggling to get it to fire up correctly. I tried again yesterday evening but then I had to walk away because I wasn't getting anywhere and I didn't want to kill the battery, or mess anything up if I wasn't getting the oil pressure(which I still don't know nor do I know how to tell other than the gauge which just always reads 'L').
I did get the #1 cylinder both valves loose as mentioned, but here's where I'm not sure if what I did was right (spoiler alert it's wrong because it still didn't work)
rotor was pointed at either #2 or #6 WIRE, I pulled the distributor, using screwdriver turned oil pump to point to #4 CYLINDER more or less, re-seated the distributor so rotor was now pointing to #4 CYLINDER with distributor seated. Plugged everything else back in and tried to start it with no joy. One thing I have not really done is I have not opened the timing cover to make sure it's in place which admittedly could be causing the problem.
I will give it another go this afternoon, but I will have the manual in hand and follow that as closely as possible. I can't be that far off am I? Famous last words.
@airon23
you mentioned in post 8 you replaced the points. Did you set the gap? If so, to what value?
you mentioned in post 8 you replaced the points. Did you set the gap? If so, to what value?
If you 'prime' your oil pump with a slotted screwdriver, inserted into a drill motor, going clockwise, you will see oil enter the rocker arm assembly with the valve cover off. Turn the engine by hand, then prime some more. Do this if you think that you are missing the 8mm or so engagement with the tang of the distributor, and the oil pump slot. With the starter, you should build up oil pressure, and see it from the rocker arm assembly.
It takes me quite a while to get the distributor aligned with the oil pump. However, in theory, if your distributor gears align with the camshaft gears correctly at the correct/compression TDC, then if your assistant turns the crank pulley, and you push down on the distributor cap, you should eventually get into the oil pump slot. I'd speak from experience, but I don't have an assistant, so I just barely adjust the oil pump to the target spot as the helical gears of the cam and distributor engage.
Below is where I observed my seated non-USA vac advance distributor fit on the block, engaged with the oil pump, without the clamp, using a mirror. Notice how the O-ring is just below the flat part on the block, just to make a seal.
It takes me quite a while to get the distributor aligned with the oil pump. However, in theory, if your distributor gears align with the camshaft gears correctly at the correct/compression TDC, then if your assistant turns the crank pulley, and you push down on the distributor cap, you should eventually get into the oil pump slot. I'd speak from experience, but I don't have an assistant, so I just barely adjust the oil pump to the target spot as the helical gears of the cam and distributor engage.
Below is where I observed my seated non-USA vac advance distributor fit on the block, engaged with the oil pump, without the clamp, using a mirror. Notice how the O-ring is just below the flat part on the block, just to make a seal.
Try setting the points, with a bit tighter setting than FSM, to account for cam lobe wear on the distributor.