Help with AirCon, Cooking, and Solar please! (1 Viewer)

[Joe45]

Why would you have a hard time getting 300w of solar on the roof ? The op stated he was building a pop up style camper and that roof would easily accomodate 300w of panels, if you were refering to a 45 cab roof, then yes, 300w of solar would cover the whole thing.

I'm totally confused in all this because I see people claiming they're doing this on their camper vans, yet I am then told it can't be done easily. Not saying anyone is being dishonest: maybe (likely) I'm missing something or not being clear. I figured a few solar panels on the roof and/or solar blankets would do it-with the right battery bank.
I really would mainly be using the AirCon while driving and if parked somewhere too hot for the dogs. Exception would be camping in a really hot and/or muggy environment. Otherwise, I much prefer the natural air.

I think most of the time the truck running will do the job, and then solar with batteries will do it too. Maybe a small silent generator can help. I know they're not totally silent, but I could build an enclosure for one that allows ventilation etc.
Just checking the options and posibilites.

I do appreciate all the points here!

 

[e9999]

If you need 1000W to run your device, it has to come from the solar panel and/or a battery when you are not running the engine. If you have a 1000W panel string there is no way you will be getting 1000W under normal circumstances. Maybe once or twice in the summer at noon in the high desert but that's it. There is a lot of misconceptions about those panels ratings. Anyway, so 1000W of panels is not going to provide enough power in real time for your device. Let alone 300W panels which is probably at the top of what you can fit on the roof. Of course, you really want to have some sort of battery as a buffer anyway, but if the panels are not sufficient as is, you then need also a big enough battery energy storage to provide the full power and energy amounts needed. Sure you can do it, but for 1000W you will need a large battery system (if you want reasonable run times) with a large inverter / controller and large cables that can handle 100A, which is a lot for normal DIY DC systems. A large system like that will be expensive. And it better be properly designed if you don't enjoy vehicle fires...

So, yes, it can be done both on the panels side and battery side, but that is not a trivial typical job. Especially if you are not yet proficient with this sort of things. Personally, I would not try to run an A/C with a system like that. That is just not a realistic endeavour for a small truck IMHO. A big RV sure, my 80 or 100? Nope.

 

[LandLocked93]

Why would you have a hard time getting 300w of solar on the roof ? The op stated he was building a pop up style camper and that roof would easily accomodate 300w of panels, if you were refering to a 45 cab roof, then yes, 300w of solar would cover the whole thing.

Right, was simply referring to available realestate on top of what I wasn't sure was the rig - like the 45 cab roof.

 

[Joe45]

You know, I just thought of the AC unit used while driving/engine running, and maybe with a small generator if necessary in extreme cases.
Camping I far prefer the natural air anyway, but for a hot night, I just thought of a 12Volt "swamp cooler" maybe even a DIY one. Wouldn't work in the South, but I spend most of my trips in the West and Southwest. Just a thought.

 

[e9999]

Despite all the above back and forth, I am puzzled, though. Is it not the case that the chosen few who are running around in 45s are on a much higher plane than the rest of us mere mortals, and would not be expected to break a sweat under any circumstances?

 

[Joe45]

Despite all the above back and forth, I am puzzled, though. Is it not the case that the chosen few who are running around in 45s are on a much higher plane than the rest of us mere mortals, and would not be expected to break a sweat under any circumstances?

Verily, thou art enlightened! However, I have chosen to come down from the magical realm of 45s to dwell among mere mortals and therefor experience the struggle against swamp-ass.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

experience the struggle against swamp-ass

... a bit cheaper than your envisioned setup, and from my many years of riding motorcycles in tight, black leathers through similar temperatures (stop picturing me, you perverts) I can confirm it works well.

 

[Joe45]

... a bit cheaper than your envisioned setup, and from my many years of riding motorcycles in tight, black leathers through similar temperatures (stop picturing me, you perverts) I can confirm it works well.

Quite lovely!

 

[Shoredreamer]

I do this stuff for a living. None of this sounds crazy or impossible. Maybe expensive. You can for sure fit 300+ watts to the roof of a pop top, and add fold out/portable solar when stationary. You can easily stuff 300+AH in the space of 2 Group 31 batteries. You can then easily run a 2000 watt inverter to run virtually any appliance thru that system. A setup like that would have no problem running AC, microwaves, instant pots, toasters, etc including all lights and fridge, charging *in most cases*.

What needs to be known is how you plan to use it and your travel habits (How and where). Travelling thru the western US for a month, moving most days and camping with sunlight and mild temps is a lot different than living out of a vehicle in Canada in winter staying stationary for a week at a time. Different climates and styles of travel require different power needs and charging. I’d have a way to charge via shore power but I’d avoid carrying a generator. Maybe a small portable power station as a backup at the most.




Here is 360 watts on a roof

And here a high energy to size LiFePo4 from DCS I installed in a 4runner. Run 2 of these in parallel gives you 360ah

 

[Joe45]

I do this stuff for a living. None of this sounds crazy or impossible. Maybe expensive. You can for sure fit 300+ watts to the roof of a pop top, and add fold out/portable solar when stationary. You can easily stuff 300+AH in the space of 2 Group 31 batteries. You can then easily run a 2000 watt inverter to run virtually any appliance thru that system. A setup like that would have no problem running AC, microwaves, instant pots, toasters, etc including all lights and fridge, charging *in most cases*.

What needs to be known is how you plan to use it and your travel habits (How and where). Travelling thru the western US for a month, moving most days and camping with sunlight and mild temps is a lot different than living out of a vehicle in Canada in winter staying stationary for a week at a time. Different climates and styles of travel require different power needs and charging. I’d have a way to charge via shore power but I’d avoid carrying a generator. Maybe a small portable power station as a backup at the most.




Here is 360 watts on a roofView attachment 3398335
And here a high energy to size LiFePo4 from DCS I installed in a 4runner. Run 2 of these in parallel gives you 360ah View attachment 3398337

WOW!
Thanks!

Good to know it can be done! I was thinking I was going nuts.

I may have given the wrong impression: that I need AC all the time, and a bunch of appliances. I really don't. I prefer cooking using camping stoves/fire and I like the fresh air over AC. But I want to be sure that I can use that AC while driving (doesn't seem to be an issue) and also when my dogs are in the truck and I have to run an errand.


I would mainly be in the SW, but plan to do a trip to Alaska, though not in winter. Would like the ability to stay out for weeks or more-including in winter. But for that I figure I can use my diesel heater.

I thought of an air fryer because someone said it's cheaper and faster than the Travel Buddy 12V, but I think I'll go with the Travel Buddy.

I plan on building a trailer for my business that matches the LC, but may also use it on long trips like to Alaska. I think a little genny can go in there, but not in the truck. The trailer would have a spare fuel tank, water...

I'm learning this stuff about electricity as I go. The truck is in the early stages, not really even started, of the resto-mod, so I figure now is the time to gather information.


Thank you again for your post! Now I need to figure out cost, etc.

 

[e9999]

If you have 300W nominal on the roof and you are in the SW , say, you may actually be generating something like 75W (likely less) averaged out over a 24h day if it's sunny. (It'd be less in Alaska also). So you basically have a ratio of 13:1 (at best) between the 1000W load and your solar source. That is a big discrepancy. Of course you can start with full batteries, that will help, but after a while you will be limited if you rely on solar only. If you only want to use the A/C for an hour a day it may be OK, but it seems like having a good DC-DC charger and topping off your batteries from the truck alternator while driving would solve a lot of that potential issue. Then it's just a matter of having enough battery capacity. Again, all possible, but expensive.

I don't mean to sound overly negative here, and I love solar systems more than most, but I also think it best that one has realistic expectations of what they can actually accomplish.

 

[peesalot]

What e9999 said regarding run time, Yes you could do a system as Shoredreamer laid out and yes it would be great and provide power for just about everything except running an A/C for long enough to make a diff. I would offer a simple solution, build a system as Shoredreamer described, buy a NICE controller that will control the solar charge, run dual batts or more, provide system analytics, and has a low voltage cut/off detection so when batts drop to the set low volt the controller starts engine until alternator recovers system. You have to install a nuetral/park switch of some sort. This set up would run your acc and preserve the start batt for vehicle. Dont choke when you see what the controllers that do this cost. You could leave the vehicle A/C ( if it has it) on as well so when the auto start kicks it on you have dual a/c. Also, you will notice when the engine auto starts and you will see how often and long it runs to do the job that way you can see if its a viable system or if it needs the engine way too much.

 

[Joe45]

If you have 300W nominal on the roof and you are in the SW , say, you may actually be generating something like 75W (likely less) averaged out over a 24h day if it's sunny. (It'd be less in Alaska also). So you basically have a ratio of 13:1 (at best) between the 1000W load and your solar source. That is a big discrepancy. Of course you can start with full batteries, that will help, but after a while you will be limited if you rely on solar only. If you only want to use the A/C for an hour a day it may be OK, but it seems like having a good DC-DC charger and topping off your batteries from the truck alternator while driving would solve a lot of that potential issue. Then it's just a matter of having enough battery capacity. Again, all possible, but expensive.

I don't mean to sound overly negative here, and I love solar systems more than most, but I also think it best that one has realistic expectations of what they can actually accomplish.

I don't see your comment as negative, so thanks for the input.
The AC would be for certain circumstances, mainly for driving. I could always use an evaporation cooling system, even a DIY one, for when I am in the West and Southwest.

 

[Joe45]

What e9999 said regarding run time, Yes you could do a system as Shoredreamer laid out and yes it would be great and provide power for just about everything except running an A/C for long enough to make a diff. I would offer a simple solution, build a system as Shoredreamer described, buy a NICE controller that will control the solar charge, run dual batts or more, provide system analytics, and has a low voltage cut/off detection so when batts drop to the set low volt the controller starts engine until alternator recovers system. You have to install a nuetral/park switch of some sort. This set up would run your acc and preserve the start batt for vehicle. Dont choke when you see what the controllers that do this cost. You could leave the vehicle A/C ( if it has it) on as well so when the auto start kicks it on you have dual a/c. Also, you will notice when the engine auto starts and you will see how often and long it runs to do the job that way you can see if its a viable system or if it needs the engine way too much.

That's an interesting idea! Thanks!

 

[e9999]

Another issue associated with all this is your alternator output capacity. A lot of older alternators can only generate something like 100A, and often less IIANM. That would be barely enough for the electric A/C alone in real time, and could be a limitation too. How big is your alternator?

 

[Joe45]

Another issue associated with all this is your alternator output capacity. A lot of older alternators can only generate something like 100A, and often less IIANM. That would be barely enough for the electric A/C alone in real time, and could be a limitation too. How big is your alternator?

Alternator is the OEM one. Don't know its specs. It has some kind of oil pump or something hooked up to th back. Eventually I'd like to take that off. Heck, I'd like to just swap in a 12HT or 1HZ or the turbo version.

 

[e9999]

well, then I suggest you check on that. I don't know anything much about 45s, but IIRC, some of the earlier alternators for landcruisers were only putting out something like 50A. If that were the case, you could not run your electric 1000W A/C while driving without discharging rapidly your battery(ies), which would not be good.

 

[Joe45]

well, then I suggest you check on that. I don't know anything much about 45s, but IIRC, some of the earlier alternators for landcruisers were only putting out something like 50A. If that were the case, you could not run your electric 1000W A/C while driving without discharging rapidly your battery(ies), which would not be good.

Yeah I'll have to do some research. I'm planning a frame up resto-mod, with a 5 Speed and hopefully a 1HZ, 12HT, or a turbo. Want to keep the engine mechanical and simple, though. At that point I guess I can look into the alternator etc.

 

[peesalot]

Pics of alt with "oil pump " ? maybe a cooler ? curious ?

 

[george_tlc]

Pics of alt with "oil pump " ? maybe a cooler ? curious ?

It won't be an "oil pump", it is a vacuum pump for the power assist brakes since with diesels there isn't sufficient vacuum available like in a petrol engine.. The oil lines are just for the engine oil being used as a lubricant for the vacuum pump. The pump uses the alternator's shaft to get its rotational motivation. Very common, at least with older diesels.

cheers,
george.