Help with 3-link on '99 4-Runner (1 Viewer)

[JLHEEPETR]

The more I thought about the 1" shanks on the Johnny Joints, the more nervous I made myself. Today I sent the stuff back to exchange for the 1 1/4 shank. A little extra insurance is never a bad thing. A special thanks to Ruff Stuff. I got the tube adapters from them. They are awesome to work with.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

I made some progress today. I got a look at the axle under my rig and started working on the steering. Also pulled all the ABS stuff and the charcol canister and related plumbing that was in the way.

This thing sits wide!

I'm a bit concerned that I may not have mounted my steering box far enough forward but if thats the case I'll be forced to relocate it. I won't know for sure untill I lower the Heepetr down to full stuff.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

I did a little more measuring today, and it looks like my steering box position will be ok. Here's my problem.... I have my frame rails sitting at about 26", and with my axle center at 18.5" (for running my 37s) I have less than 4" between my tie rod and the bottum of my oil pan. So it seems I'll be limited to less than 4" of compression which doesn't seem so good. Does anyone have any suggestions, ideas?

 

[JLHEEPETR]

While I'm waiting on my crossmember from FROR and some link brackets I figured I get some more done on the rear. I managed to get the rear axle unbolted today.

Here it is out on a pallet.

3rd pulled.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

Here it is with all the OEM brackets cut off. It left alot of grinding but I didn't want to cut too close for two reasons. A little less heat into the housing is a good thing and oh yeah....I'm not great with a torch and didn't want to blow any holes in it.
After far to much grinding!

 

[JLHEEPETR]

I am removing all the ABS stuff from the truck. Here's the ABS sensor port in the rear axle.

This is after it's been filled and buffed up.

The rear axle cleaned up and ready for the next step.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

I got my JJs back yesterday. I exchanged my 2.5 x 1 for 2.5 x 1 1/4. The difference is very noticable. Here's the old 1" joint in the 2" link.

And the same link with the 1 1/4 joint.

 

[97kurt]

Thats a clever way to plug the ABS ports. Cheaper than getting the the OEM caps.
I like.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

I finally got some time to work on the Heepetr. With a little help I managed to get the exhaust and gas tank pulled out. I'm really thinking 4-link and fuel cell looking at all the room I have now.

Got the FROR cross member in and was excited to get it installed until I found it didn't fit. Called FROR and was assured they'd never heard of this problem. Here's the under-body after some heavy hammering and a little bed liner.

The crossmember still did not clear and so I had to do some heavy trimming. This is what got cut off.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

Here's a picture of the T-case crossmember after I hit it with some spray on bed liner.

I hoping it should clear everything now.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

Well I found out today the T-case crossmember still didn't fit. I can't imagine I'm the first one to have this problem? Rather than cut the crossmember more I decided to cut the body instead. I will eventually be going to a dual case setup but I wanted to move forward with the suspension as is and need to remove the transmission crossmember asap. Here's part of the body cut out next to the T-case.

I couldn't find any sheet metal around my shop so I cut a dust guard off of an extra IFS spindle I had laying around, pounded it flat, and cut a diamond out to bend into a internal cover. This is it tacked into place.

After some finish welding, a little STR sealant, and some bed liner. I'm really liking this stuff v.s. paint.

 

[AlexJet]

View attachment 333298

This one amazing 4Runner. This is something I want to build from my 4th Gen when I retire it.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

Alex. I was able to install the t-case crossmember the other day. Here's its temporary resting place until I can get a second case.

After the t-case I started on the gear change for the rear diff. Contrary to what I've heard the 3rd came out fairly easily with the locker dissengaged. Maybe it's different on an 80 or something? However....on the third try getting the pinion bearing shim right, the bearing gave me some problems. Trying to remove and reinstall the bearing without a press proved to be a bad idea. I cracked two of the pinion teeth with a 3lb hammer.

After ordering a new set of 5.29 Yukons and building a 12 ton press I'm not sure I shouldn't have just payed someone to do it. At least I know it's right...?

 

[JLHEEPETR]

Here's the Marlin ABS eliminator spacer installed in the axle end. The Marlin HD seals installed into the machined area.

The Alloy USA axles finally in place.

The rear almost complete. I still have to get the brackets and calipers on, build the truss, link mounts, etc, etc, but that will be another day. WMS is 65", 2" narrower than the front at 67".

 

[JLHEEPETR]

In the mean time I wanted to use the spray on bed liner on the plastic flares. They've gotten prett chipped up and thought they'd look great black. Here's the truck all sanded up. I got it taped off and painted tonight too. I try to get some pics posted tomorrow of it finished.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

The trim finished with the spray on liner.

I also managed to get the rear brackets cut off. Now for some more grinding.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

Anyone who has a thought on this please chime in. I have decided on a triangulated 4 link in the rear. I am going to build a truss for the rear axle and a new crossmember to hold the frame side lower links. I will have to go to a fuel cell and have no idea what kind but I'm sure there's something out there I can make work with my fuel injection. The real question is in the front. I have all the parts in the mail to make it work but I still debating which way to go. I have read some other posts that made me want to triagulate the front lower links as well. Problem is clearance under the t-case to do this would create one hell of an anchor. I was orginally going to run the lower links from the lower, inside of the frame and am leaning back in that direction in order to work around the front drive shaft an t-case. What are your thoughts? This is coming down to the wire and seems an important consideration.

 

[dragr1]

For the gas tank, you need to contact ravencr on yotatech or se4rj-he put a different tank in his 3rd gen that fit between the rear frame where the spare went-I believe it was from an Isuzu Rodeo:

The "Official" 3rd Gen Gas Tank Relocation Thread! - YotaTech Forums

His pics are old and not up anymore, but you may be able to pm him and see if he still has them.


For the front suspension:

99 4Runner Limited Solid Axle Swap/Conversion

That might be good reading, you've probably already seen that though maybe.

Hope this helps, or maybe gives some ideas.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

Thanks dragr1. The fuel tank stuff will be helpful. I have seen Steves runner page and there's alot of good info on it. However his front crossmember is what I'm trying to avoid. Thanks for the responce. I havn't been able to get much input on this build.

 

[dragr1]

Thanks dragr1. The fuel tank stuff will be helpful. I have seen Steves runner page and there's alot of good info on it. However his front crossmember is what I'm trying to avoid. Thanks for the responce. I havn't been able to get much input on this build.

Might get a little more on yotatech b/c that's where most of the 3rd gens are hanging out, but most of the serious guys with sas'd rigs don't post much anymore.

Sorry I can't help more, but I don't have the knowledge on suspension design.