Help with 1 ton axle choice for fzj80 build
- Thread starter Dusty
- Start date
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looks sweet
i bet the wife isn't happy when you have a two week old trying to sleep and you are out banging, welding, grinding....and if working on your cruiser is anything like mine, CUSSING like a sailor! 
- Thread starter
- #165
i bet the wife isn't happy when you have a two week old trying to sleep and you are out banging, welding, grinding....and if working on your cruiser is anything like mine, CUSSING like a sailor!
correct. thats why I am farming out as much work as possible right now and buying as much preassembled stuff as possible. If the local shop was faster I would have them finish it for me but I still don't even have my front axle back.....
- Thread starter
- #166
cleaned the shop and started mock up. most all the brackets are prefabed stuff from ruff stuff and balistic.
the pics in the mock up are actually with a couple inches compression. so there should be about 6-7" between the top of the radius arms bracket and the bottom of the frame rail. so I will be limited to about 5" uptravel weather I like it or not. I may need to buy a couple of 6" springs from Slee.
note this is an 80 series rear shaft that is a direct bolt up to the pinion flange tom woods made me. look at the pics. do I need a spacer on the tcase becaus shaft is overextended or is it ok-Mr slee could you comment? I could move the rear axle forward a bit but then I will need to trim some metal off the body just behind the rear door. I dont want the rear axle comming forward much. I can have a longer shaft made but would like to avoid that.
I will use the oe track bar bushing at the frame side of track bar but will use a 7/8 shank heim at the axle side which I have. note that the trackbar will be extended 5" and is almost paralell-the extended trackbar is not represented in pic. May need a slight bend in the bar which will be 1 3/4 x 1/4 wall to clear the huge diff cover. these offset trackbar mounts from roughstuff are trick. all of their brackets are so overkill. note the offset axle coil bracket
Note the driveshaft that now must angle to the middle due to the centered dana 70. (the 80 series rear is slightly offset to pass side) should I keep the pinion level or angle to the output of the tcase? Should I just buy a slee cv shaft? Cristo comment please.
I will need to make the brackets that connect the upper rear radius arm to the lower arm. getting a plasma cutter from the local weld shop tomorow
This is the final mock up. any comments greatly appreciated
the pics in the mock up are actually with a couple inches compression. so there should be about 6-7" between the top of the radius arms bracket and the bottom of the frame rail. so I will be limited to about 5" uptravel weather I like it or not. I may need to buy a couple of 6" springs from Slee.
note this is an 80 series rear shaft that is a direct bolt up to the pinion flange tom woods made me. look at the pics. do I need a spacer on the tcase becaus shaft is overextended or is it ok-Mr slee could you comment? I could move the rear axle forward a bit but then I will need to trim some metal off the body just behind the rear door. I dont want the rear axle comming forward much. I can have a longer shaft made but would like to avoid that.
I will use the oe track bar bushing at the frame side of track bar but will use a 7/8 shank heim at the axle side which I have. note that the trackbar will be extended 5" and is almost paralell-the extended trackbar is not represented in pic. May need a slight bend in the bar which will be 1 3/4 x 1/4 wall to clear the huge diff cover. these offset trackbar mounts from roughstuff are trick. all of their brackets are so overkill. note the offset axle coil bracket
Note the driveshaft that now must angle to the middle due to the centered dana 70. (the 80 series rear is slightly offset to pass side) should I keep the pinion level or angle to the output of the tcase? Should I just buy a slee cv shaft? Cristo comment please.
I will need to make the brackets that connect the upper rear radius arm to the lower arm. getting a plasma cutter from the local weld shop tomorow
This is the final mock up. any comments greatly appreciated
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- Thread starter
- #171
another big question on my mind is whether the 9/16" summit joints are beef enough for the frame side of the radius arms. I want a pair of evo joints right now but i hear they can take a while to get here from canada. does anyone have a new pair (or 3) of the same 1 1/4 shank (left or right just make them all the same) that they can sell right now? I will pay extra
- Thread starter
- #172
last pic.
would you rather have poly rear shafts? would be a whole lot easier than this
To recap my questions:
1. is the driveshaft overextended?
2. point the pinion at the tcase or leave it flat? (the driveshaft now is now angled to the side due to using a non offset rear axle)
3. Use evo joints at the frame?
would you rather have poly rear shafts? would be a whole lot easier than this
To recap my questions:
1. is the driveshaft overextended?
2. point the pinion at the tcase or leave it flat? (the driveshaft now is now angled to the side due to using a non offset rear axle)
3. Use evo joints at the frame?
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we need to see how high from the bottom of the spring retainer stop to the top of the axle spring perch is with a 4 inch lift spring. Once that is figured out, the ride height can dictate where we weld everything.
See if we can get a whole day Sunday and have the wives and kids do something for a good 6 hours. Everything can atleast be tacked into place.
Ill pick up that scheduled 40 Thursday.
See if we can get a whole day Sunday and have the wives and kids do something for a good 6 hours. Everything can atleast be tacked into place.
Ill pick up that scheduled 40 Thursday.
Use an angle finder, find the vertical angle at the t-case. Make this the same angle at the axle, this is at ride height. A CV complicates problems with an offset, although that shaft is long enough you may be able to get away with it.
Shaft length is borderline too short, but it does look like it has a lot of slip
Shaft length is borderline too short, but it does look like it has a lot of slip
- Thread starter
- #175
good point. does someone have the measurement of the compressed length of a rear j spring as it sits under the truck? what about the compressed length of a slee 6" spring?
I wish I had a pic of an oe shaft as it sits on an 80 series so I could compare and see how much mine is extended
Dusty, you want the axis of the pinion and the axis of the transfer case output to be parrallel. This will keep the u-joints happy. With your offset pinion you do not want a CV shaft as the u-joint at the pinion will be very unhappy. If you need more input on this, let me know and I'll try to explain better.
For the DS, I think you should finish setting up the suspension and cycle it w/o the springs and see how the DS is behaving. I'd imagine it's not going to slip all that much. Whatever the case, figure out what the max extension is and then how much spline engagement that correlates to. With that info we can better judge your situation. If you do need to lengthen the shaft, I'd suggest having it retubed longer with thicker tubing than making a spacer. I just retubed my rear shaft on my trail rig this past weekend and it took me all of 2-3 hours with some 2.5" Schedule 40 pipe(nice and beefy).
As for the rear joints, I don't know. I know that I used 9/16" bolts(Rubicon Express joints) for the two attachment points of the front radius arm suspension on my old Jeep Cherokee, but that rig weighs a full ton less than an 80.
Looking good so far!!! Keep up the good work, and congrats on the new addition!!!
Ary
For the DS, I think you should finish setting up the suspension and cycle it w/o the springs and see how the DS is behaving. I'd imagine it's not going to slip all that much. Whatever the case, figure out what the max extension is and then how much spline engagement that correlates to. With that info we can better judge your situation. If you do need to lengthen the shaft, I'd suggest having it retubed longer with thicker tubing than making a spacer. I just retubed my rear shaft on my trail rig this past weekend and it took me all of 2-3 hours with some 2.5" Schedule 40 pipe(nice and beefy).
As for the rear joints, I don't know. I know that I used 9/16" bolts(Rubicon Express joints) for the two attachment points of the front radius arm suspension on my old Jeep Cherokee, but that rig weighs a full ton less than an 80.
Looking good so far!!! Keep up the good work, and congrats on the new addition!!!
Ary
- Thread starter
- #178
got the front axle back from the builder. worth the wait. the truss is tigged to the axle tube and the diff housing. As low as he could get it to the housing. Looks like a Klingon war ship or something like that from star trek
he also tigged up my adjustable rubicon express joints
he also tigged up my adjustable rubicon express joints
Sweet!!!
