Any updates?
Help with 1 ton axle choice for fzj80 build
- Thread starter Dusty
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #182
yea
had some rough stuff brackets modified my a local machinist to handle the 3/4" evolution joints. he also modified my balistic radius brackets. the rear end is now in place just needs to be welded up
got distracted with:
--built new mobile welding table
--set up the bender (thanks dan)
--built a swing for kids (4"x4" x 3/16 square tube cemented into back yard)
--On wed I go to pick my brand new 08 quad cab 6.7L cummins to pull the cruiser...as of wed she will be a trailer queen
will be back on task by weekend
had some rough stuff brackets modified my a local machinist to handle the 3/4" evolution joints. he also modified my balistic radius brackets. the rear end is now in place just needs to be welded up
got distracted with:
--built new mobile welding table
--set up the bender (thanks dan)
--built a swing for kids (4"x4" x 3/16 square tube cemented into back yard)
--On wed I go to pick my brand new 08 quad cab 6.7L cummins to pull the cruiser...as of wed she will be a trailer queen
will be back on task by weekend
- Thread starter
- #184
sorry my star expired. fixed
D, are you going to run the rig at Rubithon? I'm shooting to have mine there.
Fri, Sat. and Sun are the busy nights with everyone in camp and all the festivities. Surely Friday night is wild.
I am heading up for the Wed. Wag run and it would be great to have you make it out D. Congrats on the new baby.
- Thread starter
- #189
after wheeling in auberry (by shaver lake) this weekend with my POS yj and loosing the key (thus the screwdriver) I got a little more done on the cruiser
measured the rear several times and tacked the rear link tnd brackets together. I only used sc40 for the link but will cut it out and weld in the 2" dom when ready
measured the rear several times and tacked the rear link tnd brackets together. I only used sc40 for the link but will cut it out and weld in the 2" dom when ready
- Thread starter
- #192
hmm that pinion angle is
the axle and frame in pic are at anticipated ride height. the axle pinion angle shown is the same as the tcase output flange which is only 3 degrees from verticle. so the pinion flange and the tcase flange are both angled like this \ 3 degrees-so the pinion flange is angled up 3 degrees. I hope this is correct. If I get vibrations I will need to either get a different axle that is offset to the pass side or try pointing the pinion at the tcase.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #196
sorry for the delay. ran into a bit of a wall in fitting the front 42's into the available space in the wheelwells
as shared earlier I was planning on trimming away some of the fender and other firewall structures at the rear of the front wheelwells so as to allow the 42's some room to move. by doing this I could keep the wheels out of the front bumper and radiator support. after mounting a hub and tire I mocked up this scenereo by flexing and turning the 42" irok within the wheelwell. even with trimming at the back of the wheelwell the tire still hits the radiator support in the front.
But it gets worse. the factory trackbar hits the tierod on the d60 if the axle is moved back like I wanted. So if I move the axle back I have to cut out the factory trackbar mount and move the trackbar back. Once I realized all this I decided to do the right thing.
I need to move the front d60 axle forward a couple inches of where the factory toyota axle was. This requires more work. I marked up my custom front bumper that I worked so hard to make as it will need to be generously cut to let the tires mover forward. then I hacked away at the radiator support. and inner fender. I carefully bent the condensor lines and moved the condensor almost to the framerail. It can be done. tonight I got the front axle into position. I spent over an hour making a frame to hold the blumb lines in place for mock up. I got one tab welded to the axle. Cut once-measure 22 times
as shared earlier I was planning on trimming away some of the fender and other firewall structures at the rear of the front wheelwells so as to allow the 42's some room to move. by doing this I could keep the wheels out of the front bumper and radiator support. after mounting a hub and tire I mocked up this scenereo by flexing and turning the 42" irok within the wheelwell. even with trimming at the back of the wheelwell the tire still hits the radiator support in the front.
But it gets worse. the factory trackbar hits the tierod on the d60 if the axle is moved back like I wanted. So if I move the axle back I have to cut out the factory trackbar mount and move the trackbar back. Once I realized all this I decided to do the right thing.
I need to move the front d60 axle forward a couple inches of where the factory toyota axle was. This requires more work. I marked up my custom front bumper that I worked so hard to make as it will need to be generously cut to let the tires mover forward. then I hacked away at the radiator support. and inner fender. I carefully bent the condensor lines and moved the condensor almost to the framerail. It can be done. tonight I got the front axle into position. I spent over an hour making a frame to hold the blumb lines in place for mock up. I got one tab welded to the axle. Cut once-measure 22 times
Dusty, looking good.
May I suggest that you flip the frame end bracket for the rear LCA around so that it forms a ramp instead of a flat face to get hung up on?
May I suggest that you flip the frame end bracket for the rear LCA around so that it forms a ramp instead of a flat face to get hung up on?
