Help with 1 ton axle choice for fzj80 build (1 Viewer)

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I think he wants to flog it, he wants to be bulletproof. I'm in the same boat, haven't broken anything yet, but I don't want to deal with breaking something.
Oh I flog but have gotten lucky....till she laid on her side 2 weeks ago. But when these wheels start spinning with 37's and the lockers engaged I grit my teeth and pray


Meh... go Rockwells! I'm still interested in the new WB. I'm on my belly A LOT with my 35's, but I think that the extra WB will take away the advantages of a bigger tire and the agility that 80s have. I really want to do this too, that's why I'm playing devils advocate!

All obstacles can be overcome with reckless abondon. Big axles are key. Its great to hear an 80 land her massively weighted armour on rock with a crashing blow..the whole while swinging her huge ass around tearing down trees as small children run in terror...
 
All obstacles can be overcome with reckless abondon. Big axles are key. Its great to hear an 80 land her massively weighted armour on rock with a crashing blow..the whole while swinging her huge ass around tearing down trees as small children run in terror...

CTM 1 tons ;)
 
All obstacles can be overcome with reckless abondon. Big axles are key. Its great to hear an 80 land her massively weighted armour on rock with a crashing blow..the whole while swinging her huge ass around tearing down trees as small children run in terror...

Hmmm... Sounds like you've wheeled with me before...
 

I'd rather spend my time making big axles fit then to replace a blown birf on the trail. I'm capable of fixing that broken birf, but if I never have to fix one (mini axle in a bud's yota at 2AM isn't fun in a dust bowl) again I'd be one happy camper.

Once I get out of college and have more spare time I can devote to my cruiser I'll take a few more risks, but I can't handle long term downtime and I don't have enough long weekends to fix a good break.
 
I'd rather spend my time making big axles fit then to replace a blown birf on the trail. I'm capable of fixing that broken birf, but if I never have to fix one (mini axle in a bud's yota at 2AM isn't fun in a dust bowl) again I'd be one happy camper.

Once I get out of college and have more spare time I can devote to my cruiser I'll take a few more risks, but I can't handle long term downtime and I don't have enough long weekends to fix a good break.


:princess::princess::princess:


Downtime ya mean the 30 minutes it takes to change a birf.... I am also a full time student and work full time. I don't buy those excuses.

Gear your truck for the last time and get longs if you are worried. Think about it. you have been wheeling with what 37" boggers and still havnt broken anything I am pretty sure longs will work in your case.
 
30 minutes? Takes a little longer than that for me. You live with your truck, I live 4 hrs away from where I can work on mine. I'm also open in the front and baby the damn thing. I want to just mash the skinny pedal and go with it. Locked front with 38's (I also have this craving for 42s) on longs, not exactly a point and shoot combination.
 
30 minutes? Takes a little longer than that for me. You live with your truck, I live 4 hrs away from where I can work on mine. I'm also open in the front and baby the damn thing. I want to just mash the skinny pedal and go with it. Locked front with 38's (I also have this craving for 42s) on longs, not exactly a point and shoot combination.
Actually, that is a very strong setup..
 
38.5s, locked, with longs is point and shoot? Tons give me more stability, deeper gearing, more locker options, and puts me in a better situation to run 42s. I'd like to just lock, gear, and add longs...but I know I'll have that and want more. If I'm on tons with 42s, there is no more more...but I could move to another project...vicious circle I know.
 
Fundamentally, it seems like you really want to do this.

Is there a better reason to do it?
 
Well, I'd be happy with gears, lockers, and longs....for a good minute. But I know how I want to be able to wheel, and I just don't see that with stock axles. I also don't feel too stable with the width of the stockers. I am considering dropping down 2" in suspension and going 1-2" BL to keep COG down, but is that enough? I'm afraid to dive too deep into smaller upgrades when there is a good chance I'll want something bigger later on down the road.

What about my want for 42s? Is that reasonable with stock axles at all? With full-widths it appears I could keep most of the body and still fit the 42s. With stockers it looks like a sawzall mania!

I'm not dead set on tons, but it just seems to make a little more sense when looking at the final bill.
 
Having never done gears before.....a monkey could set them up in a 14bolt. It was super easy. The hardest part about the 14 bolt was cutting off the spring perches. And most people just give them away...$50 easy and spares are everywhere.

But I do agree that for the energy and $$ you'd put into a 60/14bolt swap...you could come in way less than that with upgrading your 80 axles and run a tire that large.

i only run 37s on my 1 tons....but will eventually go to 42s...and have no fear of breaking them :D
 
Ya thought about a Dana 70 for the rear?More ratios and more locker options.1.5" 35 spline shafts,a hair more clearance than a 14 bolt and a little bit lighter too :D
 
Fundamentally, it seems like you really want to do this.

Is there a better reason to do it?
Mainly because My job stresses me to death and this truck is my way out. I have done everything I can to this truck and axles are the next step. My little brother just built a killer scout: 60/40 arbs, hydro, stak 3 speed, 38's, linked front, fuel injected rebuilt international v8. On recent wheeling trip to arizona (metal masher) my cruiser amazed him but he tugged me out on 2 occasions. it hurt so bad. The skinny pedal could have saved me but this would have been humiliating if the axle broke and the trash would have lasted for weeks. I must kick his ass with a lexus. That is why I build.
I pick up the 14b in am


:princess::princess::princess:


Downtime ya mean the 30 minutes it takes to change a birf.... I am also a full time student and work full time. I don't buy those excuses.

Gear your truck for the last time and get longs if you are worried. Think about it. you have been wheeling with what 37" boggers and still havnt broken anything I am pretty sure longs will work in your case.
I could bust that locked front pinion in 5 minutes in a rockgarden on 37's and so could anyone else. Or bent the housings, or sheer the locker. Read christos experiences. read peterson's the last 2 years. I see guys wheel there jeeps all the time with dana 30/35 and 37's. They dont break them either. But I dont want to wheel like that.

Well, I'd be happy with gears, lockers, and longs....for a good minute. But I know how I want to be able to wheel, and I just don't see that with stock axles. I also don't feel too stable with the width of the stockers. I am considering dropping down 2" in suspension and going 1-2" BL to keep COG down, but is that enough? I'm afraid to dive too deep into smaller upgrades when there is a good chance I'll want something bigger later on down the road.

What about my want for 42s? Is that reasonable with stock axles at all? With full-widths it appears I could keep most of the body and still fit the 42s. With stockers it looks like a sawzall mania!

I'm not dead set on tons, but it just seems to make a little more sense when looking at the final bill.
I need some 6" springs. trade me for my 4"/j combo and I will throw in $100
The 80 would look so sick with full widths sitting way out there with 40's. and not some skinny 40's but 15" wide 40's. tell me stock axles could hold that-even with longs. Now immagine being reckless with those meats spinning under your 80. you know you want some too...

Ya thought about a Dana 70 for the rear?More ratios and more locker options.1.5" 35 spline shafts,a hair more clearance than a 14 bolt and a little bit lighter too :D
Yea but also harder to find. and parts are so chaep for the 14b. and it wont break anyway. I will be using 5.38 as that is as deep as you go with 14b

How about radius arms front and rear?
 
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offset 14b stuff been discussed a few times, later model dually or can go van 14b cut to
fit another stock shaft. THIS is to be closer to full width of 65-67-69ISH inches. ribbed
cases are 88 and up stuff if i remember correctly.
stuck at 5.38s

offset 70 same as above basically, but more gear available.

flopping,
extra width more stable, extra height less stable. so going full width just to go and add more
suspension lift is a Oxymoron :) less height more width. less WEIGHT up high the better.
find your flavor of tool and get to cuttin, or be happy with where it is at.

weight,
tank does what it is going to do, high height its going to flop, heavy weight it will break parts.

family wheelin a 80, IMO stay 37s under and wheel it stockish, ENJOY wheeling at that level ( FAMILY WHEELIN), have a need to go to bigger rocks lose 2000 lbs or more and go, or just build something that would much much better fit what your going to wheel IE lighter stronger and probably not a 80 :)

5.86 is a old gear for 60s dont find many around. kind of a odd ratio really.

ALL time drive, will eat the front end no matter what you do, longs, birfs, or 60 axle joints. so looking at aftermarket joints just remember you will be replacing them due to wear.


sell the heep get a 40 and build away, keep the 80 as is a mild wheeler/daily/cruiser
 
I could bust that locked front pinion in 5 minutes in a rockgarden on 37's and so could anyone else. Or bent the housings, or sheer the locker. Read christos experiences. read peterson's the last 2 years. I see guys wheel there jeeps all the time with dana 30/35 and 37's. They dont break them either. But I dont want to wheel like that.


I



I did talk to christo he said he only broke two because we was being stupid....Yanking out someone in reverse with his crawler box on. I am willing to bet he wheels harder than you and his short bus has been all over.
 
I had a built 14 bolt and the only reason I got rid of it is cuz I didnt want to be stuck with 5.13s.Had there been 5.38s back then I may not have switched.

And as far as cost,really the only thing that is more money is a Detroit.But only if you have the one piece carrier.If you end up with a two piece carrier the price is the same as a 14 bolt.Gears,bearing kits,and brakes are the same cost as a 14 bolt.And everything is still available and easy to find for one or two piece carrier and either pinion offset.My 70 didnt even have a BOM and it wasnt hard to figure out what I needed.

And I know its not an 80 and they aint 40s but bein fat and haulin a bunch of kids and a ton of gear is :grinpimp:

IMG_0750.jpg
 
I did talk to christo he said he only broke two because we was being stupid....Yanking out someone in reverse with his crawler box on. I am willing to bet he wheels harder than you and his short bus has been all over.
I promise he wheels his trimmed, and petite, and shortened, without lots of kids in it, hauled everywhere on trailer landcruiser....harder than I do. Aint the same truck. much lighter and running longs that dont do well driving to work. Now drop $750+ into part time kit and you have a hubs to deal with. And what about the sas 100 series at ultimate adventure this year? much similar to an 80 than the shortbus


extra width more stable, extra height less stable. so going full width just to go and add more
suspension lift is a Oxymoron :) less height more width. less WEIGHT up high the better.
find your flavor of tool and get to cuttin, or be happy with where it is at.

weight,
tank does what it is going to do, high height its going to flop, heavy weight it will break parts.

family wheelin a 80, IMO stay 37s under and wheel it stockish, ENJOY wheeling at that level ( FAMILY WHEELIN), have a need to go to bigger rocks lose 2000 lbs or more and go, or just build something that would much much better fit what your going to wheel IE lighter stronger and probably not a 80 :)

5.86 is a old gear for 60s dont find many around. kind of a odd ratio really.

ALL time drive, will eat the front end no matter what you do, longs, birfs, or 60 axle joints. so looking at aftermarket joints just remember you will be replacing them due to wear.


sell the heep get a 40 and build away, keep the 80 as is a mild wheeler/daily/cruiser
80 can do it all. With my turbo this thing can tow, expedition, wheel or whatever.

remember that replacing 80 axles with tons is not realy that expensive compared with a regear and new arbs and longs front, poly perf chromos rear anyway for your 80. 80 Longs and rear chromos are $1200 ish shiped alone. you will be tearing out the 80 front end anyway for a 3 link. 4wheel parts has a xmas special right now: 1ton front and rear master gearset and intal kit, 2 arbs, compressor, and, redline synthetic lube=$2,200 with free shipping.

The swap is realy only a couple/few thousand $ relitively speaking (i keep telling myself this)

Now if I had a cool 55 like above I may pursue that rout. whatever happened to that coil overed job for sell back east. I offered him my 80 and $5000. I would have been ahead
 
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