I'm sure you will be fine with how long the rear DS will be... (I've been studying this out for me too.) However, I've also thought about extending my WB... What type of terrain do you usually run in?
Help with 1 ton axle choice for fzj80 build (3 Viewers)
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- #22
usually rock. never mud
Use the sterling if you have it then.. 5.38 is way low enough..
A RC ford chunk converted to PS drop is unnecessary IMHO. I get a stupid amount of travel in the front of my rig and I do not bind with a low pinion, stock D60. If you really want one, then do it. But I feel it is unnecessary and can actually cause limitations in uptravel in low slung rigs..
DC shaft will actually complicate things. On a DC shaft the pinion is supposed to be pointed at the tcase. If you run compound angles (up/down, and side/side) there is no way to actually put the DC shaft in the correct orientation. Use a standard shaft.
There are multiple vehicles that have used an offset driveshaft. LC's actually did for a short peroid of time. If the shaft is well balanced and you do not exceed the total angularity of the joint. You should be just fine.
Most newer stock D60's are 30 spline. Not enough of an upgrade unless you bore the inside of the spindles out (machine shop) to accept 1.5" 35 spline shafts..
A RC ford chunk converted to PS drop is unnecessary IMHO. I get a stupid amount of travel in the front of my rig and I do not bind with a low pinion, stock D60. If you really want one, then do it. But I feel it is unnecessary and can actually cause limitations in uptravel in low slung rigs..
DC shaft will actually complicate things. On a DC shaft the pinion is supposed to be pointed at the tcase. If you run compound angles (up/down, and side/side) there is no way to actually put the DC shaft in the correct orientation. Use a standard shaft.
There are multiple vehicles that have used an offset driveshaft. LC's actually did for a short peroid of time. If the shaft is well balanced and you do not exceed the total angularity of the joint. You should be just fine.
Most newer stock D60's are 30 spline. Not enough of an upgrade unless you bore the inside of the spindles out (machine shop) to accept 1.5" 35 spline shafts..
I was thinking HP to keep the driveshaft out of the rocks. It seems that the conversion is harder than my buddy described it. How much work is it?
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- #26
Ok Mace today at lunch I found this 14 behind a local parts store. The store owner told be I could have it for $200. It has very little rust-looks fairly new. He told me He will have it ready for pick up this saturday morning. I havn't seen a lot of 14bolts but this one is ribbed on the housing. Does that mean anything concerning? if not I have my rear axle
I met "slickrock" yesterday. Turns out he lives in my town (lemoore). He told me he will help me set the grears.
I met "slickrock" yesterday. Turns out he lives in my town (lemoore). He told me he will help me set the grears.
I was under the assumption that the 3rd just unbolted and you could grind to get it to fit the chevy housing.
The ribs are the newwer 14bolts not sure when they started but my buddy has a 99 3/4 burb that has one. I could save ya some money on the retubbing, I have a doubler kit set up for a Ford 205.
Oh god no..
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- #32
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- #34
someone figure out how to mate any good low geared transfercase at all to the auto on this thing and im first in line. advance, stak, marlin, and trail gear have all let me down
so then the 14 bollt must be about 70"ish wide which would be just fine
so then the 14 bollt must be about 70"ish wide which would be just fine
I would not say no problems, dude still broke a lot of parts and he didn't beat it that hard. The 80 axles aren't big enough to run 40s on a 6K vehicle....
I am all for moding the crap out of stuff. But I think this is a lot of work for very little gain.
You said you don't flog the rig very hard so why not just run longs? I am willing to bet Action Jackson has put a hell of a beating on his rig.
Run ARBs, part time kit, and longs....Also running hydro assists only helps and will stop the breakage of the sector shaft twisting off like we have all seen in the 80s. I run a 80 series tapped box with a toyota pump. Don't even notice its there until I am in the rocks and notice I can still steer.
Just because you have a free axle doesnt mean its a good idea...
This is just my 2 cents, take it with a grain of salt.
Good luck on your build though...
You said you don't flog the rig very hard so why not just run longs? I am willing to bet Action Jackson has put a hell of a beating on his rig.
Run ARBs, part time kit, and longs....Also running hydro assists only helps and will stop the breakage of the sector shaft twisting off like we have all seen in the 80s. I run a 80 series tapped box with a toyota pump. Don't even notice its there until I am in the rocks and notice I can still steer.
Just because you have a free axle doesnt mean its a good idea...
This is just my 2 cents, take it with a grain of salt.
Good luck on your build though...
Its not just the axles that break, the diffs don't hold up, studs shear. 60s on a heavy ass 80 on 40s is a much better idea.
I agree the HP front diffs dont hold up....
But he said he doesnt beat on his rig all that bad so I really dont see them exploding...Thats why I said since you dont flog your rig you don't need them.
I think he wants to flog it, he wants to be bulletproof. I'm in the same boat, haven't broken anything yet, but I don't want to deal with breaking something.
Meh... go Rockwells! I'm still interested in the new WB. I'm on my belly A LOT with my 35's, but I think that the extra WB will take away the advantages of a bigger tire and the agility that 80s have. I really want to do this too, that's why I'm playing devils advocate!
