Help me evaulate this LC (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter pkt1213
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- Thread starter
- #23
Thanks!
The reason the brakes being changed is almost equal to a front end rebuild is because you have to remove the hub and wheel bearings to replace the rotor (inboard rotor). If you're in that far, it's not much farther to finish the seals and inspecting the Birfields as well as the trunnion bearings. If you plan on keeping it a while, do it right.
Since you/re planning on replacing the 4.5L with something else entirely, then, no, don't do a head gasket or head rebuild to get new valve guides. Just keep pouring more oil in it as you need. Run it til it pukes.
I get the $1500 for the head gasket because of the replacement gaskets, head machining, new valve guides and seals. Depending on where you are in the world, machining can be expensive.
Since you/re planning on replacing the 4.5L with something else entirely, then, no, don't do a head gasket or head rebuild to get new valve guides. Just keep pouring more oil in it as you need. Run it til it pukes.
I get the $1500 for the head gasket because of the replacement gaskets, head machining, new valve guides and seals. Depending on where you are in the world, machining can be expensive.
And if the pads are just worn down (many say needs brakes soon are referring to the pads) then swap the pads and be done with it, if the rotors spec out with a caliper. Otherwise, yah, while your in there might as well I guess turn an hour job into an all day ordeal. haha
Head gaskets are changed all the time and work great without rebuilding the head. Resurfacing if out of spec and the gaskets under $500 easy.
Not to pick on your post but I think this prevalent attitude of "while your doing brakes you might as well rebuild the axle while your at it" or "head gasket blew, might as well spend $1500 and rebuild the head since you have it off." I mean, I guess it's all about what you want out of the project. I think for most people they want something reliable to take camping and the dogs out once in a while. On the other side of the coin I understand the attitude of the rig being everything and it to be as close to new mechanically throughout as possible. I certainly don't fit into the camp because frankly I don't have the time or money to treat my 19 year old truck like that. To those who do, I respect that, but for someone new inquiring about buying one that perfectionist mindset can be pretty intimidating.
Mine is my DD that I bought because it was a "cheap" vehicle and I could throw money at it when I had to, rather than pony up for a new vehicle with all the money at once. Because all I can afford is a 18 year old vehicle that is deemed to be "The most reliable vehicle in the world".
I am NOT made of money in any sense of the word. If I had the money and time to have an "Extra" vehicle that I could put 3000 miles on a year to go camping, that would be great, but that isn't the case.
However, I have also learned in my many years of turning wrenches that time has become more valuable than my money. If I'm going to tear into something, I'm going to replace everything in there at that time, so I don't have to do it again in 15K miles. That's not because I'm made of money, that's because I have EXPERIENCE.
If I'm going to pull the head, it's going to get new guides, seals, a valve lap or re-machine, and resurfaced. It will also get the most reliable head gasket and new bolts/studs so I don't have to do it again any time soon. That's why my low-mileage vehicle is at 162,000 on a Chrysler minivan.
In the OP case here, he's planning on throwing away the 4.5 when he gets to it. That changes the entire picture.
What is YOUR intended use and MY intended use could be worlds apart.
The long and the short of every post here is that it's worth exactly what you paid for it...$0.00.
If you start a new thread for every thing that you have a problem for instead of searching the archived stuff, then everyone that follows has to read that many more bull**** posts, rather than having all the related items in one thread. When was the last time you did a search and read EVERY post that it came up with?
Differences of opinion. That's what makes this forum great. Now, let's keep it tech for the newbies.
I am NOT made of money in any sense of the word. If I had the money and time to have an "Extra" vehicle that I could put 3000 miles on a year to go camping, that would be great, but that isn't the case.
However, I have also learned in my many years of turning wrenches that time has become more valuable than my money. If I'm going to tear into something, I'm going to replace everything in there at that time, so I don't have to do it again in 15K miles. That's not because I'm made of money, that's because I have EXPERIENCE.
If I'm going to pull the head, it's going to get new guides, seals, a valve lap or re-machine, and resurfaced. It will also get the most reliable head gasket and new bolts/studs so I don't have to do it again any time soon. That's why my low-mileage vehicle is at 162,000 on a Chrysler minivan.
In the OP case here, he's planning on throwing away the 4.5 when he gets to it. That changes the entire picture.
What is YOUR intended use and MY intended use could be worlds apart.
The long and the short of every post here is that it's worth exactly what you paid for it...$0.00.
If you start a new thread for every thing that you have a problem for instead of searching the archived stuff, then everyone that follows has to read that many more bull**** posts, rather than having all the related items in one thread. When was the last time you did a search and read EVERY post that it came up with?
Differences of opinion. That's what makes this forum great. Now, let's keep it tech for the newbies.
Good points, and I wasn't trying to ruffle feathers. Just pointing out that for some doing a head gasket to get the truck running again could easily be a couple hundred $$ job (if the head and block spec) versus $1500. Different strokes for different folks.
ranma21
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For the oil burning issue, mine used to burned around a quart every 5k miles with Shell Rotella synthetic oil. Changed it to Valvoline Synpower 10W40, seems to consume a lot less oil now. The valve stem seal/ guide must be drying up but if it gets worse then I will worry about it.
For new front and rear brake pads, rotors and caliper rebuilt kit as well as front axle rebuilt parts, should be around $800 for Genuine Toyota parts from our discount vendor here on mud. Strongly recommend you do it yourself so you know your truck better and save lots of money.
Virtually all the used cruiser out there needs those done unless you get lucky and get one that is well maintained by cruiser addicts like us!!
That is just some of the baseline stuff, there are more to fully bring the cruiser back to top mechanically condition if PO did not follow up on the maintenance. That being said, I think most of us overly pamper our cruiser and over maintained it!!
For new front and rear brake pads, rotors and caliper rebuilt kit as well as front axle rebuilt parts, should be around $800 for Genuine Toyota parts from our discount vendor here on mud. Strongly recommend you do it yourself so you know your truck better and save lots of money.
Virtually all the used cruiser out there needs those done unless you get lucky and get one that is well maintained by cruiser addicts like us!!
That is just some of the baseline stuff, there are more to fully bring the cruiser back to top mechanically condition if PO did not follow up on the maintenance. That being said, I think most of us overly pamper our cruiser and over maintained it!! 
An 80 series with lockers and cloth interior, i would call it a unicorn if it was the correct color.
Funny you should say that. The only one I have seen in person was white.....
No sun roof either in that truck.
No sun roof either in that truck.
- Thread starter
- #31
Thanks for all the help guys. As for doing the work myself I would love to but if it is my DD I might take it somewhere. I have had a bad history the past several years doing my own work.
Porsche 944 engine reseal, tb, wp - broke a block off in the block from the oil cooler. Had to pull the motor, have it drilled and tapped. Spent 18 months with the engine apart and I had to pay someone eventually to put to back together.
Audi A4 - waterpump went out in May. spent a month deciding the best combination of parts. put back together and has a coolant leak from somewhere else now too that I can't find. parked between where my wife can't pull in garage
Everything else the past several years too is always such an ordeal and I am little burned out on doing it myself. Plus I'm having a baby next month so I want to spend as much time with him and not in the driveway. I have some stuff around the house that needs to be done that will probably absorb my free time.
Porsche 944 engine reseal, tb, wp - broke a block off in the block from the oil cooler. Had to pull the motor, have it drilled and tapped. Spent 18 months with the engine apart and I had to pay someone eventually to put to back together.
Audi A4 - waterpump went out in May. spent a month deciding the best combination of parts. put back together and has a coolant leak from somewhere else now too that I can't find. parked between where my wife can't pull in garage
Everything else the past several years too is always such an ordeal and I am little burned out on doing it myself. Plus I'm having a baby next month so I want to spend as much time with him and not in the driveway. I have some stuff around the house that needs to be done that will probably absorb my free time.
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I think the truck looks real clean and straight, and unless you find compression issues or a leaking head gasket $6K would be fair. I like that it's OBD2 compliant, I happen to really like that color combo, and I think lockers are a must have. So, were I in your position I would proceed to check out the grease in the Birfield joints, check the motor, look for rust and evidence of any body or frame damage and make an offer in the $5500 range. I would point out to the current owner that these things are a maintenance nightmare and the parts are costly, the gas mileage is horrible, and really who knows how many more miles you'll get before something awful happens. That would be my pitch.
- Thread starter
- #33
Won't be going to check out out tomorrow. Was in a charity bike ride and my finger had a run in with the spoke and the fork. Been at the ER for a few hours now.
