Help me evaulate this LC (1 Viewer)

Joined
Feb 7, 2008
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137
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Owasso, OK
A few hours from me is, what looks like a fairly clean 80 series. He is asking too much for it but I would like to have a ballpark idea what it would be worth before driving to look at it. Also any suggestions for things to check.

1997 LC
164k miles
Poverty Pack
F/R Dif lockers

Bad:
Dif lockers flash but do not engage
TB Changed a around 100k, not sure about WP
No leaks but burns a qt of oil between oil changes
Will need brakes soon



















 
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
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Those headrests are out of a 2nd gen 4runner and the seats look like they are out of a 3rd gen Runner. (could be wrong about the seats though, just never seen that material in a Cruiser)

If they are saying they changed the timing belt, that would raise a red flag because they are clearly trying to BS about something that is usually required on imports. Obviously with a chain on the mighty FZJ80, that is not the case.


Looks clean otherwise. Price?
 
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
137
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Owasso, OK
That is a good point on the timing belt/chain. I forgot about that. This would be my first cruiser but not my first Toyota. I had a pretty nice built 98 4runner that I miss dearly.

The headrests look like they match the seats.

Anyone have some CarFoxs available. :)

If there was just a miscommunication on the tb thing,would 6 be a fair offer?
 
Joined
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Owasso, OK
Just talked to him and he said the PO told him that it had had the timing belt changed and didn't know if had a belt. He offered to take it to his mechanic to see if the original chain was still on it. He's had it about a year.
 
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Just talked to him and he said the PO told him that it had had the timing belt changed and didn't know if had a belt. He offered to take it to his mechanic to see if the original chain was still on it.


That's a red herring, the original chain is on it at that mileage.

You need to drive it and really inspect it before coming up with a number but $5K-6K is probably a pretty realistic starting point
 
Joined
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Owasso, OK
I know. I like them too. Leather is great until it gets old.

I'm going to go look at it Saturday morning. I would guess these are pretty easy to compression test being an inline 6.

I know to check the driveline for leaks, damage rust. The frame and body for rust. General driving and things to check on all cars. Any particular things I should lookout for on the 80 series?
 
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Go get the block test kit and fluid at Autozone and check the headgasket. Other than that make sure it shifts through all the gears correctly, the birfields aren't clicking or full of runny goop, and general driveability.
 
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Messages
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Owasso, OK
Thanks. I printed out the slee buyers guide too to review tonight.

I've see a lot about Birfields when looking at 80 series stuff but what are they? Is it front axels?
 
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Olathe, KS, USA
Brakes all around also means it probably needs F/R axle rebuild. Figure $1000 if doing it yourself, $2000 if someone else does it. The burning 1 Qt oil every oil change means valve guides (most likely) which means the head gasket has not been done, which means it should be done... Figure $1500 if you do it, $2500 if someone else. The diff lockers could be that they haven't been used. Could be $0.00 to $300 per each. Do this at the same time the axles get rebuilt. I think the $5 to $6K is too high. I think $3-$4K tops.
 
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Thanks. I printed out the slee buyers guide too to review tonight.

I've see a lot about Birfields when looking at 80 series stuff but what are they? Is it front axels?


They are what is sometimes generically referred to as "steering knuckles." Essentially they are a large ball in socket design at the ends of your front axle that allow you to have steering with a solid front axle. There is a large square plug nut at the top of each one that if you wipe off really good you should remove and stick a zip tie into the unit and check the condition of the grease. It shouldn't be watery or else that means your seals are shot. There is a lot to search about the rebuild process and most of what I have read made me run from any 80's that I looked at that had signs of bad Birfields. It's not something I wanted to do right away in the new ownership phase. haha
 
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Brakes all around also means it probably needs F/R axle rebuild. Figure $1000 if doing it yourself, $2000 if someone else does it. The burning 1 Qt oil every oil change means valve guides (most likely) which means the head gasket has not been done, which means it should be done... Figure $1500 if you do it, $2500 if someone else. The diff lockers could be that they haven't been used. Could be $0.00 to $300 per each. Do this at the same time the axles get rebuilt. I think the $5 to $6K is too high. I think $3-$4K tops.


Where is the $1500 number for a do it yourself head gasket job coming from?

And just curious, if the head gasket hasn't failed, why change it? PM? I mean, my transmission isn't slipping, should I have that rebuilt too? PM is one thing, but treating a head gasket like changing out belts and hoses is pretty extreme in my opinion.
 
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Joined
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Messages
137
Location
Owasso, OK
Figured burning a qt would be valve guides. As long as a compression check and cooling system pressure check are ok I'm not super worried about it. The plan would be to put an LL8 and 6L80E in eventually. I figure 2-3 years would allow me to get my shop building built and keep an eye out for the right parts.

How do front brakes=axle rebuild? I've replaced a lot of brake just because they were worn down. When you rebuild the front axle what are you doing? I figured this would be replace the seals. I don't see axles or gears being destroyed by a 160k miles. Maybe I am wrong in this.

Trying to find a good pic or drawing of where the plug is for the Birfields to check. Is it a screw out plug or a cap?
 
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Messages
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Figured burning a qt would be valve guides. As long as a compression check and cooling system pressure check are ok I'm not super worried about it. The plan would be to put an LL8 and 6L80E in eventually. I figure 2-3 years would allow me to get my shop building built and keep an eye out for the right parts.

How do front brakes=axle rebuild? I've replaced a lot of brake just because they were worn down. When you rebuild the front axle what are you doing? I figured this would be replace the seals. I don't see axles or gears being destroyed by a 160k miles. Maybe I am wrong in this.

Trying to find a good pic or drawing of where the plug is for the Birfields to check. Is it a screw out plug or a cap?

It's a square screw out plug, it's very obvious when you look at the truck. An adjustable wrench would be fine for removing it. I can't remember the wrench size off the top of my head.


I think that insinuation about the brakes being done is an indication that the seals leaked out and saturated the pads. Well, brakes have also been known to wear down through normal use as well. One seems more likely than the other, you decide which one probably occurred. That post was loaded with worst case scenarios in my opinion! :)
 
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