Wadesters
SILVER Star
Heater shut off valve and 90 degree elbow
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@ToyotaMatt has a nice option to replace that stuff now
On my 72 the valve screw right into the head. The temp sending unit is in the next big hole towards the radiator. Online catalogs usually have really good pic's even if the parts are no longer available. I just look at $OR and FJ - both only show the "new style" that is cable operated. I'd bet my old printed catalog(s) have an actual picture of the set up. Have you look in the chition manual.
Oh yeah. Sorry. I see that now.
Mine was bad on the last build I did so I had to purchase a used one. Maybe check with classic cruisers
I think the return heater hose connects to a fitting in my lower radiator hose. Been a while, and there is like 4" of snow on the hood.
Wadesters
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks. Next nightmare to come. I have sourced and have an SD40 to go back stock. Looks like previous owner also modified fuel line to put on new "janky" carburetor. So will have to look at that next. I all ready have new fuel line from red line land cruisers and a new fuel pump.
I knew the water lines and fuel were going to be a problem as they were about the only things that were modified. Except hole in dash and doors for radio and speakers
Luckily those are a distant memory all new metal.
I knew the water lines and fuel were going to be a problem as they were about the only things that were modified. Except hole in dash and doors for radio and speakers
Luckily those are a distant memory all new metal.
Thanks. Next nightmare to come. I have sourced and have an SD40 to go back stock. Looks like previous owner also modified fuel line to put on new "janky" carburetor. So will have to look at that next. I all ready have new fuel line from red line land cruisers and a new fuel pump.
I knew the water lines and fuel were going to be a problem as they were about the only things that were modified. Except hole in dash and doors for radio and speakers
I modified a FJ60 fuel line. Most people cut them and put a big fuel filter right before the carb which is a terrible idea. The fj60 line has the proper carb fitting and a simple barb on the fuel pump end.
Put a 5/16” hose barb on the fuel pump and just connect the two with a bit of hose.
This is my latest build. Look up Blue Bird in 40 section. My first F135 to install
I went the this on my 67 FJ40 trying to get the stock fittings back in place. Similar to yours, but I have a rear heater. PNW 67 Patina Blue - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/pnw-67-patina-blue.1289865/page-4#post-14706371
That 60 degree or "soft 90 degree" elbow is likely for the heater line that runs from your water pump outlet to the front heater. I would assume then that you would have another that is a full hard 90 that will run from the block shut off to your heater.
You don't appear to mention the year of your truck and any mods, engine changes, etc. etc. so what I have here is intended for years indicated on the picture. If it doesn't apply, please ignore.
The "tee" is upside-down so the part number shows.
The head is under pump pressure while this tee is on the suction side of the pump. Flow travels from the head to the tee when the valve is open.
What is the sending unit you have on top of the tee connected to? With the valve closed, it's not going to see much water flow to keep up with the increase in water temp.
The "tee" is upside-down so the part number shows.
The head is under pump pressure while this tee is on the suction side of the pump. Flow travels from the head to the tee when the valve is open.
What is the sending unit you have on top of the tee connected to? With the valve closed, it's not going to see much water flow to keep up with the increase in water temp.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
FYI
The valve in the return line at/near the radiator is often not used or included in the heater system (which falls under the electrical group in the parts manuals
) as it’s generally believed to not be needed. Mark @65swb45 has talked about this in a post or two of his which you can search for, maybe he’ll join in here and add to the discussion. It’s probable he has the block adapter and hose valve. The tee that @73FJ40 shows in his post above is what most installations use for the return line into the coolant system.
The valve in the return line at/near the radiator is often not used or included in the heater system (which falls under the electrical group in the parts manuals
) as it’s generally believed to not be needed. Mark @65swb45 has talked about this in a post or two of his which you can search for, maybe he’ll join in here and add to the discussion. It’s probable he has the block adapter and hose valve. The tee that @73FJ40 shows in his post above is what most installations use for the return line into the coolant system.
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Wadesters
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #13
I have the two OEM shutoffs. The one with the long rod and top pice missing is frozen shut. The other one turns freely but a pit some water in it and no matter what position I turn it I don’t get any water. This would be fine just don’t want problems later on.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
That’s about how many I went through to get one that works, mostly . I have the thumb turn thingy that you turn to open and close the valve, it just doesn’t want to stay attached 
. I’ve peened it in place but I don’t trust it staying there, so it’s in its own special box on the shelf that I pull it out twice a year, beginning of winter to open the valve and beginning of spring to close it. I crack myself up.
. I have the thumb turn thingy that you turn to open and close the valve, it just doesn’t want to stay attached . I’ve peened it in place but I don’t trust it staying there, so it’s in its own special box on the shelf that I pull it out twice a year, beginning of winter to open the valve and beginning of spring to close it. I crack myself up.That’s about how many I went through to get one that works, mostly
i have this going on now ........
i have seen and now concluded FACT: too many of the original ELBOW's with the TALL button connector cluster gauge sending unit threaded into the top to determine this was NOT a back-yard or SHOP Mod done on a drill press or by hand by anyone personally ..........
however , i can't find JACK on it in any 1961-later paper parts cataloger ? i do NOT haave every single modle year of 40 , 45 and 45LV , but i would think it would show some mention in the SIAMESE F era ones i do have ?
note : all the hose bib fittings below are for the larger 16mm ID heater hose
mr paul , can you Assist me on a possible parts diagram please ...?
i have scoped out this topic via my Trusty MACHINE SHOP here locally i have been dealing with for over 25+ years , they say they can make it happen , but i need to spec. ALL the TECH to them in writing , a simple step by step , Female Thread Pitch and Diameter etc.
does anyone have a GOOD enough one to assit me with the flat surface TOP to the BEVEL below detail Depth in Metric only Please ?
i DO have the SOLID Meat at my top inside thankfully , i new about this sensor female threaded version , but never once thought about it during the long reproduction time window this has taken till right now .....i received my 1st initial small'ish production run , and have already pulled the trigger on a nice amount qty x pcs. too ....
i have been dreaming hard for many years about this ELBOW and how best to design it to do more thingy's then the original ones were intended to back in the day ....
i hope to hell i got this closer to close period correct closeness .....
introducing :
( THE 2nd ULTIMATE CAT'S MEOW MEOW )
UNION HOSE BIB 90' Degree Angel Cylinder Head
&
Early Threaded Water Pump Outlet Heater Hose Bib Fitting Union Assy.
Part # 90404-60010 / 60011
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( THE 2nd ULTIMATE CAT'S MEOW ) UNION HOSE BIB 90' Degree Angle Cylinder Head & Early Threaded Water Pump Outlet Heater Hose Bib Fitting Union Assy. Part # 90404-60010 / 60011 - VintageTEqParts.com
( THE 2ND ULTIMATE CAT'S MEOW ) - 90' Degree Angle Cylinder Head & Early Threaded Water Pump Outlet Heater...
vintageteqparts.com
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now this is call out letter G in @middlecalf PDF Parts Diagram above : it has the smaller heater hose bib for the 13mm ID application like a rear heater on the Early Era Trucks and a FJ60 2F " Cartus tower L Splitter coming off the rear cylinder head , also take note it has the O-Ring equipped HEX lock down nut and JIS Straight male Threads , as opposed to the 16mm Shut off having the larger JIS pipe taper male threads .....
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a new and indeed wicked kool way i pipe dreamed up
i was able to leave the clear tube on and and simply double black UV grade ZIP TIE it far away from the Exhaust manifold and down pipe .....
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.NOTE : BELOW is the smaller 13mm HOSE BIB shut off valve , i like to enter free-form mode in Friday nights and tinker with outside the JIS BOX random ideas that come to me ,,,,,,,,,,,,
this is one that seamed meant to be , i use the Cylinder head Short later cluster meter gauge sender union and PRESTO ! this can occur and occur dam well ,,,
i have NO clue wher this setup on early trucks can or could be utilized ? i will invite everyone's favorite 2 solid MUD buddies mr/ @pardion & mr. @middlecalf to enter this topic talking points with there idea 's with input and options from here , also anyone else that would like to share as always as well too please ...
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.3
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a new and indeed wicked kool way i pipe dreamed up
i was able to leave the clear tube on and and simply double black UV grade ZIP TIE it far away from the Exhaust manifold and down pipe .....
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.
.
this is one that seamed meant to be , i use the Cylinder head Short later cluster meter gauge sender union and PRESTO ! this can occur and occur dam well ,,,
i have NO clue wher this setup on early trucks can or could be utilized ? i will invite everyone's favorite 2 solid MUD buddies mr/ @pardion & mr. @middlecalf to enter this topic talking points with there idea 's with input and options from here , also anyone else that would like to share as always as well too please ...
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