Headliner Insulation/Sound Deadener Material Suggestions

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May 21, 2019
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Location
Birmingham, AL
Hey guys,

I just finished welding up holes in my roof and currently have the headliner removed. I had to remove some of the insulation in order to make the welds so I need to replace the insulation in the roof while I have the headliner down. I know there’s been many threads on this topic and I’ve been looking at them this evening. I can’t seem to find a thread where everyone agrees that a certain product made a noticeable difference in better insulating the truck and sound deadening the noise.

Does anyone have any products they highly suggest and saw great results from? If not is it best just to go back with the jute insulation? Thanks for the help.
 
In previous cars and some day my cruiser, I've used roof flashing repair tape. it's the same material as dynamat, its just thinner and a fraction of the cost. In areas where it needed more, I just doubled it up. works great on the roof of a car because it comes in 6 inch wide strips and can be cut to any length.

one summer for an insulation test / for fun in my old yaris, I used some soft foam material we get at my work from incoming product and put it in all the crevices of the car. it made it extremely quiet and it definitely helped insulate the car. I left it in all summer and for most of my rainy season but was concerned with moisture. when i pulled it out it was dry, though. I'd say any soft foam you can get up and out of the way would help.
 
Dont know how you would make it stay up there but you could try reflectex (I think thats how its spelled). Would be similar to the tap mentioned above in that it would reflect outside heat and has a small amount of R value. Its basically like bubble wrap lined with mylar on both sides
 
I would avoid using any asphalt based product meant to be used on a building/house. Others who've used roofing products often ended up with a stinky mess. I would stick with Dynamat, Hushmat, etc; they were designed to be used inside a vehicle.
 
Hey guys,

I just finished welding up holes in my roof and currently have the headliner removed. I had to remove some of the insulation in order to make the welds so I need to replace the insulation in the roof while I have the headliner down. I know there’s been many threads on this topic and I’ve been looking at them this evening. I can’t seem to find a thread where everyone agrees that a certain product made a noticeable difference in better insulating the truck and sound deadening the noise.

Does anyone have any products they highly suggest and saw great results from? If not is it best just to go back with the jute insulation? Thanks for the help.

I followed this suite of sound proofing and have been pleased with it. The vender is no longer selling the products but the info has been archived.

For ceiling under headliner it's only two items needed:
1. CDl tiles like this Sound Deadener Showdown | Your Vehicle Quiet
can order equiv from here Kno Knoise - Kolossus Edition Sound Deadener
Lots of other options just to deaden the metal.

2. then Hydrophobic Melamine Foam adhered with hot glue gun. Products | Sound Deadener Showdown
equiv product here Amazon product ASIN B01N2497HN
That's it.
I've thought about trying this but it's heavy and won't be easy to adhere. My son used it as an underlaying in 89 pickup and was effective with MLV.
Amazon product ASIN B008NF84J8
As far as MLV - I'd only use that for floors and doors and get one that doesn't offgas. It's heavy so not sure it would work well in ceiling. Most of the sound comes from below, firewall, doors and windshield

EDIT extra items needed:

decoupler for MLV

from sounddeadenershowdown here's the full list for an 80
Toyota Land Cruiser 4 door SUV 1990-1997
Generation:
J80
Measured Year:
1 997
Dimmensions:
Toyota Land Cruiser 4 door SUV 1990-1997 Dimensions
Net Weight Added to Vehicle in lbs.:
172
Product Quantity
CLD Tiles™ 87
Extruded Butyl Rope - 15 feet 3/8" 1
Plain MLV 1/8" 1 lb/ft² 54" - Linear Feet 36
Sheets 1/8"x36"x54" Neoprene/EPDM Closed Cell Foam 11
Hydrophobic Melamine Foam - 3/4"x24"x24" (4 ft²) pieces 6
Velcro® Strips, Adhesive both sides - 2"x4" 32
HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement - 32 oz can 1
This materials list is an estimate based on measurements provided by a customer or customers. Quantities should be considered what I expect to need for the project instead of what I know will be needed. This turns out to be very close in almost every case but is absolutely not guaranteed! "Add to Cart" for total, shipping and purchase.
Product Distribution by Area:
Front Doors (each):
5.5 CLD Tiles™, outer skin
1 CLD Tile™, probably cut into smaller pieces, inner skin
1 CLD Tile™, probably cut into smaller pieces, trim panel
Extruded Butyl Rope
6.7 ft² MLV
9 ft² 1/8" CCF
2.5 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Rear Doors (each):
4 CLD Tiles™, outer skin
1 CLD Tile™, probably cut into smaller pieces, inner skin
1 CLD Tile™, probably cut into smaller pieces, trim panel
Extruded Butyl Rope
5.7 ft² MLV
8 ft² 1/8" CCF
2.5 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

There is more CCF than MLV because you want as close as possible to a full layer of CCF on the side of the MLV facing the inner door skin and will add pieces of CCF on the side of the MLV facing the trim panel where the MLV and trim panel would otherwise make loose contact.

Kick Panels (each):
.5 CLD Tiles™
1.1 ft² MLV
1.1 ft² 1/8" CCF
1 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Floor:
10 CLD Tiles™
39.3 ft² MLV
54 ft² 1/8" CCF (extra is to double up in the foot wells)
2 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Back Seat Platform / Riser:
5 CLD Tiles™
8.7 ft² MLV
8.7 ft² 1/8" CCF
3 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Roof:
18 CLD Tiles™
22.7 ft² 3/4" Hydrophobic Melamine Foam

Cargo Area Floor:
10 CLD Tiles™
18.2 ft² MLV
18.2 ft² 1/8" CCF
6 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Quarter Panels (each):
5 CLD Tiles™
8 ft² MLV
8 ft² 1/8" CCF
3 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Hatch Door:
5 CLD Tiles™, outer skin
1 CLD Tile™, probably cut into smaller pieces, trim panel
5.9 ft² MLV
8 ft² 1/8" CCF
3 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Totals:
87 CLD Tiles™
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope
146.5 ft² MLV
149.8 ft² 1/8" CCF
22.7 ft² 3/4" Hydrophobic Melamine Foam
32 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides
1 32 oz can HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement
 
I used Noico 80mil sound deadening and 315mil closed cell foam. I didn't show it in my build thread, but I removed the sunroof cartridge and put the sound deadening and closed cell foam all over the underside of the roof, then reinstalled the sunroof cartridge. The vehicle is substantially quieter than it was before


Cheers
 
I used Noico 80mil sound deadening and 315mil closed cell foam. I didn't show it in my build thread, but I removed the sunroof cartridge and put the sound deadening and closed cell foam all over the underside of the roof, then reinstalled the sunroof cartridge. The vehicle is substantially quieter than it was before


Cheers

I installed the same on my doors and it made a huge difference. Floors, quarters and roof in the future...

It is affordable and on Amazon.
 
I would avoid using any asphalt based product meant to be used on a building/house. Others who've used roofing products often ended up with a stinky mess. I would stick with Dynamat, Hushmat, etc; they were designed to be used inside a vehicle.

Fatmat is asphalt, and how I put the connection between the two. It just has a different name on it. I found a day or so of airing out and the smell of flashing tape is gone. I think proper application of the tape will help with smell, even in hot summer temps. Out of boredom once, I got liquid tar and coated the inside of a car I got for free from my work, and then re installed the interior. that was horribly smelly but worked really well. I hauled that car off to scrap about a month later lol.
 
I followed this suite of sound proofing and have been pleased with it. The vender is no longer selling the products but the info has been archived.

For ceiling under headliner it's only two items needed:
1. CDl tiles like this Sound Deadener Showdown | Your Vehicle Quiet
can order equiv from here Kno Knoise - Kolossus Edition Sound Deadener
Lots of other options just to deaden the metal.

2. then Hydrophobic Melamine Foam adhered with hot glue gun. Products | Sound Deadener Showdown
equiv product here Amazon product ASIN B01N2497HN
That's it.
I've thought about trying this but it's heavy and won't be easy to adhere. My son used it as an underlaying in 89 pickup and was effective with MLV.
Amazon product ASIN B008NF84J8
As far as MLV - I'd only use that for floors and doors and get one that doesn't offgas. It's heavy so not sure it would work well in ceiling. Most of the sound comes from below, firewall, doors and windshield

EDIT extra items needed:

decoupler for MLV

from sounddeadenershowdown here's the full list for an 80
Toyota Land Cruiser 4 door SUV 1990-1997
Generation:
J80
Measured Year:
1 997
Dimmensions:
Toyota Land Cruiser 4 door SUV 1990-1997 Dimensions
Net Weight Added to Vehicle in lbs.:
172
ProductQuantity
CLD Tiles™87
Extruded Butyl Rope - 15 feet 3/8"1
Plain MLV 1/8" 1 lb/ft² 54" - Linear Feet36
Sheets 1/8"x36"x54" Neoprene/EPDM Closed Cell Foam11
Hydrophobic Melamine Foam - 3/4"x24"x24" (4 ft²) pieces6
Velcro® Strips, Adhesive both sides - 2"x4"32
HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement - 32 oz can1
This materials list is an estimate based on measurements provided by a customer or customers. Quantities should be considered what I expect to need for the project instead of what I know will be needed. This turns out to be very close in almost every case but is absolutely not guaranteed! "Add to Cart" for total, shipping and purchase.
Product Distribution by Area:
Front Doors (each):
5.5 CLD Tiles™, outer skin
1 CLD Tile™, probably cut into smaller pieces, inner skin
1 CLD Tile™, probably cut into smaller pieces, trim panel
Extruded Butyl Rope
6.7 ft² MLV
9 ft² 1/8" CCF
2.5 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Rear Doors (each):
4 CLD Tiles™, outer skin
1 CLD Tile™, probably cut into smaller pieces, inner skin
1 CLD Tile™, probably cut into smaller pieces, trim panel
Extruded Butyl Rope
5.7 ft² MLV
8 ft² 1/8" CCF
2.5 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

There is more CCF than MLV because you want as close as possible to a full layer of CCF on the side of the MLV facing the inner door skin and will add pieces of CCF on the side of the MLV facing the trim panel where the MLV and trim panel would otherwise make loose contact.

Kick Panels (each):
.5 CLD Tiles™
1.1 ft² MLV
1.1 ft² 1/8" CCF
1 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Floor:
10 CLD Tiles™
39.3 ft² MLV
54 ft² 1/8" CCF (extra is to double up in the foot wells)
2 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Back Seat Platform / Riser:
5 CLD Tiles™
8.7 ft² MLV
8.7 ft² 1/8" CCF
3 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Roof:
18 CLD Tiles™
22.7 ft² 3/4" Hydrophobic Melamine Foam

Cargo Area Floor:
10 CLD Tiles™
18.2 ft² MLV
18.2 ft² 1/8" CCF
6 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Quarter Panels (each):
5 CLD Tiles™
8 ft² MLV
8 ft² 1/8" CCF
3 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Hatch Door:
5 CLD Tiles™, outer skin
1 CLD Tile™, probably cut into smaller pieces, trim panel
5.9 ft² MLV
8 ft² 1/8" CCF
3 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Totals:
87 CLD Tiles™
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope
146.5 ft² MLV
149.8 ft² 1/8" CCF
22.7 ft² 3/4" Hydrophobic Melamine Foam
32 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides
1 32 oz can HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement
Thanks for all the information. Very helpful.
 
Anyone have suggestions on how to remove the old glue that held the old insulation to the ceiling? I’ve tried scraping it and it hasn’t worked very well
If it’s cold enough out that can make it brittle. Freeze spray can do it and then chisel off. I can’t remember if I tried paint thinner, acetone or rubbing alcohol. But one of those seemed to help.
 
My experience with overhead sound deadening. Builds - Recently acquired locked 94 build

Construction bich-a-thane type stuff is NOT the same as high quality butyl sound deadener (high quality deadener has a thick sheet of aluminum backer on it, big difference). I have used a few different kinds, you absolutely get what you pay for. I highly recommend Hushmat brand. It’s sticks incredibly well and is best in terms of cost benefit to me. The higher quality stuff will remain soft for many years compared to the cheap stuff (noico, etc) that will get hard over time.
 
My experience with overhead sound deadening. Builds - Recently acquired locked 94 build

Construction bich-a-thane type stuff is NOT the same as high quality butyl sound deadener (high quality deadener has a thick sheet of aluminum backer on it, big difference). I have used a few different kinds, you absolutely get what you pay for. I highly recommend Hushmat brand. It’s sticks incredibly well and is best in terms of cost benefit to me. The higher quality stuff will remain soft for many years compared to the cheap stuff (noico, etc) that will get hard over time.


You have experience with Noico becoming hard and brittle?

Appears to be quality to me.
 
You have experience with Noico becoming hard and brittle?

Appears to be quality to me.
No direct experience with long term degradation, but it seems to be similar material type to the OEM stuff. After handling it and Hushmat, there is such a world of difference it’s not even funny.
 
No direct experience with long term degradation, but it seems to be similar material type to the OEM stuff. After handling it and Hushmat, there is such a world of difference it’s not even funny.


Do you know of indirect experience?
 
I used Noico on my doors and quarters, with a layer of CCF over the top. Made a noticeable difference. That being said, I plan on using Dynamat on the areas where higher heat is an issue (floor, firewall, and especially trans. tunnel and over exhaust routing). The Noico supposedly degrades when exposed to higher hear areas and can be smelly. I've noticed no degradation in the quarters or doors in the 7+ years I've had it installed there, though.
 
I used Noico on my doors and quarters, with a layer of CCF over the top. Made a noticeable difference. That being said, I plan on using Dynamat on the areas where higher heat is an issue (floor, firewall, and especially trans. tunnel and over exhaust routing). The Noico supposedly degrades when exposed to higher hear areas and can be smelly. I've noticed no degradation in the quarters or doors in the 7+ years I've had it installed there, though.

Thank you.

I was looking at the temp specs, and noticed Hushmat has double the high heat temp resistance compared to Noico. I would like evidence to support an issue if there are any though. Maybe I will use Hushmat for the trans area like you will with Dynamat....
 

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