Headlight switch problems (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

kev60

TLCA Member:23722
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Threads
17
Messages
167
Location
Billings Montana
Hi, guys looking for advice on fixing the switch that turns on my cruisers brights. Right now my brights are always on because for some reason the spring or mechanism that holds the shaft into the right position is gone. So the shaft is loose in there and always falls forward meaning the brights are always on. I have tried finding where the a spring should be or what is missing in there but cant seem to find where it would go. Would it be best to just find another one or could I just wire in another switch to control the brights? This one is not original to the cruiser and I believe the shaft is not the same year as the rest of the module. Thanks for any advice.
 
Same issue for me, kind of. For some reason the PO on my 88 FJ62 has a button that you hit with my left foot to switch between low/high. I can't change it on the column and get it to stay on high beams and I know all the column stuff is there because I removed it to fix my horn. following for info.
 
Can of worms. You open up that can you may not be able to get the worms back in. Really tho, It is a detent ball and spring that toggles back and forth. Probably the ball came out of position and the spring is pushing the switch forward. There is a pin inside the arm that helps hold the ball but may be broken causing the ball to move up inside the arm. You can get to the metal retainer that holds the ball in place but to do this you'll need to: remove the steering wheel, unplug the harness at the base, remove the headlight/haz/turn signal switch. Flip the switch over and unscrew the 2 screws that hold the detent ball at the very end of the switch arm. Then remove the long screw that acts as a pin that that arm pivots on. Once you do this there is a pin inside the arm that will try to slide inward (blocking you from putting the pivot pin back in the hole in the arm) and the ball if it's there may be up inside the hole at the end of the arm. (it's hollow) You may need a pick to slide the pin forward, a magnet to fish out the ball (its about size of a bb). Maybe have another switch assembly to install. check out this post: s://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/turn-signal-fix-using-parts-from-a-1983-toyota-pickup.1042983/#post-11497334
 
Wow that seems like a heck of deal for that combination switch. I may just buy that and then take my other one apart to figure out what is wrong. How much soldering are we talking? And assuming you bought one how has it been working?

I have a theory that when it was replaced something fell out of it and I am sure it is the little ball or spring or something is missing since its so wobbly.
 
Circled in red is the metal tab that hold the detent ball. Don't worry about the spring popping out. It is held in place sandwiched between the gray and black plastic pieces. Circled in green is where the pivot screw is. You'll have to take that out to get the arm off.

headlight switch circled.jpg
 
You can easily find a used switch. Try Classic Cruisers in Poncha Springs. Wont hurt to have a spare.
 
Thanks for the reply guys. I will take mine apart this weekend and see if I can piece something together. Otherwise I will buy a used or Chinese one. I'll update it if I fix it. Thanks again.
 
Those China-made ones are not nearly the quality of the OE switches, but they work. I wouldn't take one apart, but use the entire new assembly. I suppose they're not made to last 30 years like the Toyota, but they'll work for now while you find a backup replacement. If you do a search, there are also light switch replacements from other Toyota models that work and are available, they just don't look the same.

 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom