Head gasket leaking, decision time.

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Here is a pic of the coolant leaking down the bell housing

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All those pipes look like crap. I would seam clean it all and replace the coolant hoses up too first. Can’t track anything down on a dirty motor.
 
All those pipes look like crap. I would seam clean it all and replace the coolant hoses up too first. Can’t track anything down on a dirty motor.
I have already replaced every hose. And the only other line in the picture is the rear heater line which is bypassed. I really hope you guys are right but it doesn't appear to be a hose or line. It's dry from the bottom of the head up and wet from the bottom of the head down with red coolant. It's directly behind the block running down the top of the transmission. Either way I will mess with it more over the next few weeks. I do still have one silicone line going to the heater valve. Doesn't look to be leaking but it's worth replacing to see if it is the culprit. Might get a scope back there or a mirror.
 
Have seen that leak, was the rear of the head gasket, leaking externally. Pressure tester and small inspection mirror, scope found/confirmed it. Not a great place to access, see!
 
The head gasket on my '95 had leaked externally by 75K miles when I bought it. The good news is that it never leaked again or got any worse by 250K miles.
 
There is a freeze plug at the rear of the head that leaks and drips all over the tranny so you might be in the clear. If you search under my name, you'll see a pic of my '97 leaking. If you find it, please post up here for others to see. I'm just too lazy!
 
There is a freeze plug at the rear of the head that leaks and drips all over the tranny so you might be in the clear. If you search under my name, you'll see a pic of my '97 leaking. If you find it, please post up here for others to see. I'm just too lazy!
Can't find your photo but it looks like this. Gotta pull the head either way.

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Yup, that's it and yup, it sucks balls to get to it any other way. Mine was seeping for years and had toyota red dried up goop all over it. I believe this part is NLA so I just used some sort of loctite liquid and pressed it back in after the head returned from the valve job.
 
this is gonna sound crazy but I suggest removing the whole engine with the ECU harness still attached for doing a job like this. After doing a few of these, it's faster for me to pull the engine and work on it on a stand vs bent over the engine bay for hours. Again, this is just my personal experience and we all have different level of tolerances of what we want to put our body through.

Given the age of our rigs, more items need to be addressed at this juncture including the rear main seal and the upper oil pan gasket R/R so engine pulling only makes sense to me. I can pull the engine faster than just the head alone! YMMV.
 
this is gonna sound crazy but I suggest removing the whole engine with the ECU harness still attached for doing a job like this. After doing a few of these, it's faster for me to pull the engine and work on it on a stand vs bent over the engine bay for hours. Again, this is just my personal experience and we all have different level of tolerances of what we want to put our body through.

Given the age of our rigs, more items need to be addressed at this juncture including the rear main seal and the upper oil pan gasket R/R so engine pulling only makes sense to me. I can pull the engine faster than just the head alone! YMMV.
It's funny you say that because I was looking at the steps for engine and transmission removal in the fsm last night and it looks way easier than removing the head in the vehicle. Plus I will have better access to replace all of the gaskets and seals before going back in. That is now my current plan.
 
It's funny you say that because I was looking at the steps for engine and transmission removal in the fsm last night and it looks way easier than removing the head in the vehicle. Plus I will have better access to replace all of the gaskets and seals before going back in. That is now my current plan.

Yup, you nailed it. Ping me if you need any further info but if you read some of the engine removal threads, I'm sure you'll pick up all the tips and tricks.

- for disconnecting Toyota wiring connectors Long Reach Hose Grip Pliers 3 Pc
- for all kinds of weird s*** access Pick and Hook Set 7 Pc
- removal of the top bell housing bolts, quite a few socket extensions. Remove the rear x member and tilt the engine a tad but be sure to remove the fan shroud to protect fan blades from making contacts and shattering
-this is my favorite tool for dealing with the cam shaft bolts Sears.com
-
 
No big deal. I'll pull the engine soon and get it fixed. I'll start ordering everything tonight
 
My head gasket also took a dump recently. Same symptoms- pissing coolant out the back while engine was running. Confirmed tht it was the gasket. Head rebuild ought to be done early next week. Also putting in new Aisin water pump and doing the blue fan clutch upgrade. Now, I'm thinking to pull that oil cooler thingy to ensure that is doesn't cause problems down the road / trail. Fun time$!
 
this is gonna sound crazy but I suggest removing the whole engine with the ECU harness still attached for doing a job like this. After doing a few of these, it's faster for me to pull the engine and work on it on a stand vs bent over the engine bay for hours. Again, this is just my personal experience and we all have different level of tolerances of what we want to put our body through.

Given the age of our rigs, more items need to be addressed at this juncture including the rear main seal and the upper oil pan gasket R/R so engine pulling only makes sense to me. I can pull the engine faster than just the head alone! YMMV.

Totally agree !!
 
I'm thinking I can just order the complete engine overhaul kit, 14 new head bolts and I should have everything I need to replace all the gaskets needed for the head and all the other seals and gaskets.
 

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