inkpot
SILVER Star
Recently helped a friend do his HG at 235K. We used a Beck Arnley HG set from Rock Auto and we swapped on a head that had been rebuilt 30K earlier. It runs like a top. It's his daily driver. No problems after 6 months.
Head gasket blew...now to figure out options (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter RyRoRyan
- Start date
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Unless the Toyota parts for this job have gone astronautical since I did mine a couple years ago, you should be able to get this done well under 2k and probably under $1500.
When I did mine, I had the head pressure and leak tested, then milled. Machine guy said the valves looked fine. Cost $115. I forget what the Toyota kit cost at the time, but I also bought new head studs and broke both knock sensors on disassembly/assembly if memory serves well. In the end, total cost was right around $1300 and took 13 days from start to finish.
When I did mine, I had the head pressure and leak tested, then milled. Machine guy said the valves looked fine. Cost $115. I forget what the Toyota kit cost at the time, but I also bought new head studs and broke both knock sensors on disassembly/assembly if memory serves well. In the end, total cost was right around $1300 and took 13 days from start to finish.
@RyRoRyan I can see doing an LS swap sub $10k if done yourself; Especially if you're handy and have fabricating abilities; with all the deals I see pop up on Craigslist it can be done. That being said, I have also read your post, others posts and it seems there is a bit of a disconnect with a lot of the replies. You state that you turned the engine over and it turned about 1 turn before locking. Nobody has really addressed that. You could potentially just get away with doing a head gasket and pulling another 200k from the engine with minor work here and there like injectors, thermostat etc...but hydro-locking the engine could have caused a bent rod or worse. So the real concern here isn't head gasket replacement cost it's whether or not it HAS to be rebuilt. You won't know until you pull the head and oil pan. You have to get the head off and pull that connecting rod to check it for true. Then you need to have your head inspected for cracks at a minimum. I personally would pull the engine so I could have the crank checked too. It could be fine, but why burn up your time and money and find out it wasn't? I know a rebuild is more expensive and on top of this you'll probably need to add rod reconditioning or possibly purchasing another rod or set of rods. I'm not trying to scare you or anything; I'm just trying to let you know there may be additional costs in your rebuild since it was a hydro-locked motor. These engines are pretty damn stout but that doesn't mean it couldnt be internally damaged. To me, peace of mind and saving myself the time is worth the cost of having it rebuilt. However, you won't know what it needs until you pull that head and pay some money to have the head inspected and pull the rod of the filled cylinder and have it inspected. Lastly @jpoole mentioned the head bolt topic. I'm my experience most TTY headbolts cant be reused. Even if they all measure out fine, often as mentioned you will have 1 or more that can't and you won't know until you either over stretch it or break it off and have to remove the head to remove the broken piece. As for the ARP head studs; I wouldn't use them again as they are what lead to my head gasket failure. Some people get away with installing them and never having an issue; some people report needing to go back after a few hundred miles and re-torquing the nuts. I went several thousand before the nut on 2 studs backed off and caused my minor failure. Some blue devil and it was road worthy for another year and then some before I started my swap. If you do decide ARP studs...don't use the 2jz studs. They're too short to be reliable. Best of luck to you. Let me know if you need hard parts, I still have my engine.
- Thread starter
- #24
I doubt I bent a rod, but I will look into it. Like I mentioned, the engine didnt even get close to firing, it was just the starter turning it over and even then, just starting to which I dont think would be enough force to hurt it. If it was running, sure, even at idle it has a ton of kinetic energy. If I bent something, I will be surprised, but it would be worth the look.
Part number i used when i bought my factory Toyota valve grind kit was 04112-66036.
Per Mud's parts expert, Beno, This is what is in 04112-66036 (Valve Grind kit, 1FZ-FE: AKA: Head Gasket kit)
1. Head Gasket
2. Injector orings and grommets
3. Fuel line gaskets
4. Throttle body gasket
5. Exhaust Manifold gaskets
6. Intake manifold to head gasket
7. Upper and lower intake gaskets
8. EGR valve to intake manifold gasket
9. EGR pipe to head gasket
10. Fuel filter banjo bolt gaskets
11. Valve cover gasket
12. Spark plug tube seals
13. Valve stem seals (both intake and exhaust valves--24 total since it is a 24 valve engine)
14. Water outlet gasket
15. Thermostat gasket
16. Timing Chain tensioner gasket
17. Water bypass outlet orings (3)
18. Exhaust manifold down pipe donut gaskets
19. Air injection tube gaskets (for 1993-1994 trucks)
20. Gaskets for the cylinder head screw plugs
21. Dizzy oring
Per Mud's parts expert, Beno, This is what is in 04112-66036 (Valve Grind kit, 1FZ-FE: AKA: Head Gasket kit)
1. Head Gasket
2. Injector orings and grommets
3. Fuel line gaskets
4. Throttle body gasket
5. Exhaust Manifold gaskets
6. Intake manifold to head gasket
7. Upper and lower intake gaskets
8. EGR valve to intake manifold gasket
9. EGR pipe to head gasket
10. Fuel filter banjo bolt gaskets
11. Valve cover gasket
12. Spark plug tube seals
13. Valve stem seals (both intake and exhaust valves--24 total since it is a 24 valve engine)
14. Water outlet gasket
15. Thermostat gasket
16. Timing Chain tensioner gasket
17. Water bypass outlet orings (3)
18. Exhaust manifold down pipe donut gaskets
19. Air injection tube gaskets (for 1993-1994 trucks)
20. Gaskets for the cylinder head screw plugs
21. Dizzy oring
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Here is a breakdown of some of the parts and money spent for mine. I did do alot of extra but the a****** that sold me mine not only rolled back/switched guage clusters but removed the cel bulb and did some shady things. Like I mentioned earlier, glad it happened actually because I got it right now. The only thing not on my spreadsheet is tools which were probably about 400 extra.
Also should be noted that I got the mud discount just before Dan left LHM Toyota. Also got some really fair pricing on machine work and a great deal on used motor from Ali. Bad bearing. (Also not on spreadsheet but my head was warped so got a whole longblock for the price I paid for timing chain). Also saved me a bunch because I was able to take the best head bolts and fasteners and etc from both engines and make one. Also used various harness pieces that were in better shape.
Anyways, good luck. Highlighted section is rebuild costs.
Also should be noted that I got the mud discount just before Dan left LHM Toyota. Also got some really fair pricing on machine work and a great deal on used motor from Ali. Bad bearing. (Also not on spreadsheet but my head was warped so got a whole longblock for the price I paid for timing chain). Also saved me a bunch because I was able to take the best head bolts and fasteners and etc from both engines and make one. Also used various harness pieces that were in better shape.
Anyways, good luck. Highlighted section is rebuild costs.
Hi all,
I am doing the head job on my 96 LC and am about to start putting it back together. Trying to use this thread as reference for all of the orings, gaskets, seals etc I need to replace. However, my engine gasket kit 04111-66036 has 11 additional items than in the above description. Can anyone help identify where these go?
I've been searching low and high for an actual description of what all the items are in the kit, but this thread is pretty much the only one I can find.
Thanks for any help!
I am doing the head job on my 96 LC and am about to start putting it back together. Trying to use this thread as reference for all of the orings, gaskets, seals etc I need to replace. However, my engine gasket kit 04111-66036 has 11 additional items than in the above description. Can anyone help identify where these go?
I've been searching low and high for an actual description of what all the items are in the kit, but this thread is pretty much the only one I can find.
Thanks for any help!
11 is the water pump gasket
10 is for the metal coolant pipe coming off of the water pump.
9 for the timing chain tensioner I think
4 I believe is for the aluminum pipe coming off the water pump.
5 may be the distributor o ring.
Not sure on the square one. May be for the oil level sending unit.
I Think 8 is the banjo washer for the fuel filter inlet.
thanks, some of those like the distributor o ring are supposedly already accounted for in the previous image by rifleman. i was thinking 8 was the only one i actually had an idea on, and that was just the oil drain plug gasket lol. pretty sure the banjo washers are in the previous image also? Maybe these all become pretty obvious once I start putting things back together, I just like the idea of knowing ahead of time what i'm looking to replace :/
Thanks again
Thanks again
I think you are correct. it should be pretty obvious when you start putting it together. someone will chime in with a definitive answer
#7 PS pump?
Winner winner chicken dinner you are correct, the red O ring goes on the power steering pump.
