Builds HDJ77 Build for Midwest Overlanding (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter GreaseMonkeyJP
- Start date
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Rob simply rebuilt my right hub which failed to lock during the Fall trip to Windrock. The parts (motor and relays) that make the hub lock and unlock are woefully "under engineered" and therefore unreliable. Rob's goal is to modify my hubs where they can be manually locked using some of the current components combined with some fabricated do-dads. (Future project)
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From the little bit that I know of Rob's fix, it's going to be a solid mod. Excited to see another mid-west 77. I sent you a PM regarding your PZ motor.
Love the Nardi wheel. Seems to be standard affair on JDM 70 series. I replaced mine with a mk1 mr2 wheel and love it.
Love the Nardi wheel. Seems to be standard affair on JDM 70 series. I replaced mine with a mk1 mr2 wheel and love it.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
You guys will be surprised how capable are those 1HZ in " stock " form if you witness how any coaster bus it's driven down here .. drivers who look for more " performance " add even gas .. ( yes, gasoline ) to the tank ..
- Thread starter
- #25
So I had a minor issue come up.
The cruiser just died on me about 1/4mile from my driveway. Having just switched anti-gel treatment, and it being a particularly cold morning I thought that it must have gelled up, but after a fuel filter change I noticed that there was fuel leaking from the primer pump. Where fuel can leak out air was sure to have been leaking in leading to my issue.
So I installed a new primer pump:
I also checked the fuel heater to make sure that it was working. This lead to me doing an impromptu rebuild of the fuel heater due to misunderstanding the maintenance manual check instructions making me think that it wasn't working:
It is a pretty interesting design with the top part being a vacuum switch. The vacuum is created by resistance to fuel flow when it starts to gel, and when the switch is closed a current flows through the spring and a stacked resistor to the body of the fuel pump, and back to ground. The resistor heats up the fuel allowing it to flow again.
The cruiser just died on me about 1/4mile from my driveway. Having just switched anti-gel treatment, and it being a particularly cold morning I thought that it must have gelled up, but after a fuel filter change I noticed that there was fuel leaking from the primer pump. Where fuel can leak out air was sure to have been leaking in leading to my issue.
So I installed a new primer pump:
I also checked the fuel heater to make sure that it was working. This lead to me doing an impromptu rebuild of the fuel heater due to misunderstanding the maintenance manual check instructions making me think that it wasn't working:
It is a pretty interesting design with the top part being a vacuum switch. The vacuum is created by resistance to fuel flow when it starts to gel, and when the switch is closed a current flows through the spring and a stacked resistor to the body of the fuel pump, and back to ground. The resistor heats up the fuel allowing it to flow again.
Good job find a primer pump with heater! Mine went too but couldn't find one with the heater bit like my original had. Perhaps I didn't look hard enough but I felt the generic one cost me enough.
Perhaps I missed this but what transmission do you plan on using?
Perhaps I missed this but what transmission do you plan on using?
- Thread starter
- #27
The primer pump with the heater can be a hard one. The new one that I installed is P/N: 23301-17140.
It is only a little bit different than my original one.
If you look at the third picture you can see where the angle of the output tube is a little bit different causing the hose to not fit so well. I was able to get the hose worked out.
I will be keeping the R151 transmission (after it is rebuilt with some upgrades). I know it is not the strongest, but reality is that in the Midwest a tow truck is never really that far away, and parts availability is much better than the H151, or H55.
It is only a little bit different than my original one.
If you look at the third picture you can see where the angle of the output tube is a little bit different causing the hose to not fit so well. I was able to get the hose worked out.
I will be keeping the R151 transmission (after it is rebuilt with some upgrades). I know it is not the strongest, but reality is that in the Midwest a tow truck is never really that far away, and parts availability is much better than the H151, or H55.
- Thread starter
- #28
I haven't been making too much progress on the Landcruiser lately, more enjoying driving it, and slowly gathering parts.
I did get some interior work done. The plastic piece surrounding the sunroof switch was discolored so I painted it.
The SEM color coat is designed specifically for painting plastic parts, and it seams like it will hold up well. The Opel Grey color was the best fit that I could find at the local paint shop. I think that the color fits pretty well.
I did get some interior work done. The plastic piece surrounding the sunroof switch was discolored so I painted it.
The SEM color coat is designed specifically for painting plastic parts, and it seams like it will hold up well. The Opel Grey color was the best fit that I could find at the local paint shop. I think that the color fits pretty well.
- Thread starter
- #29
I took some TIG welding classes and got the instructor to help me weld up my crossover pipe which was damaged before the engine was shipped to the US.
I still need to clean up the weld some and see if I can blend it in so it is not as noticeable.
I still need to clean up the weld some and see if I can blend it in so it is not as noticeable.
- Thread starter
- #30
Finally cleaned up the Radio install with some modifications to the mounting brackets and the surround,
It only looks a little bit out of place.
It only looks a little bit out of place.
Love the rig. Did you happen to get a goofy thumbs up from a dude in a Maroon GMC truck today? @GreaseMonkeyJP
- Thread starter
- #32
Yep, that was me.
My bro was pretty excited to see a Cruiser. Let alone a RHD 70-Series. We both grew up in my FJ60, so seeing a Cruiser like yours was (again) exciting.
- Thread starter
- #34
Thanks, I am glad you liked it.
- Thread starter
- #35
I had to do some towing so I got a made an adjustable height mounting plate for a pintle hook ball combo.
It bolts onto the 4 holes on the face of the frame, and 5 bolt holes on the bottom of the frame. The face plate is 1/4” steel, and the lower part is a 1/4" angle piece.
The pintle hook ball combo is a CURT#48190. The bolt pattern matches the pattern in the Toyota frame and could be mounted directly to the frame.
It bolts onto the 4 holes on the face of the frame, and 5 bolt holes on the bottom of the frame. The face plate is 1/4” steel, and the lower part is a 1/4" angle piece.
The pintle hook ball combo is a CURT#48190. The bolt pattern matches the pattern in the Toyota frame and could be mounted directly to the frame.
- Thread starter
- #36
I also realized late the night before that the Japan wired trailer light connector was not going to work.
(It was outputting separate brake and turn signals, both at 24V)
Luckily found some help on mud:
Trailer Lights Logic Circuit & Step Down Voltage Converter
It was late and I needed it working the next morning so I had to make due with some 12v relays. The added resistors are to modify them to work off the 24V system.
I am simultaneously proud and ashamed of this wiring. I think that I am going to have to go and clean it up when I have time to allow for correct parts to arrive, but it worked well for the day.
(It was outputting separate brake and turn signals, both at 24V)
Luckily found some help on mud:
Trailer Lights Logic Circuit & Step Down Voltage Converter
It was late and I needed it working the next morning so I had to make due with some 12v relays. The added resistors are to modify them to work off the 24V system.
I am simultaneously proud and ashamed of this wiring. I think that I am going to have to go and clean it up when I have time to allow for correct parts to arrive, but it worked well for the day.
- Thread starter
- #37
So I have get started rebuilding the R151 transmission for the engine swap and figured I should double check everything is going to line up before I put it all back together.
Glad I did because I hadn't thought about the input shaft length change. Luckily they are easy to come by so I have new one on the way and it should be here in time for next weekend.
Glad I did because I hadn't thought about the input shaft length change. Luckily they are easy to come by so I have new one on the way and it should be here in time for next weekend.
- Thread starter
- #38
Took a break from the transmission to play with a new toy any got a cool picture of the Landcruiser.
I probably wouldn't put too much money into that transmission as I question how well it'll hold up to the 1HD-FT. After installing the turbo on my 1HZ I quickly blew my clutch and not long after my H55F.
If manual transmission is your desire an H151 would be better suited.
If manual transmission is your desire an H151 would be better suited.
