Builds HDJ77 Build for Midwest Overlanding (1 Viewer)

[GreaseMonkeyJP]

I agree the H151 is a stronger box, but for now I am going to stick with the R151. As I said this cruiser is going to see more freeway than trail, and most of the complaints that I have heard about the R series failing involve tractor tires, or mine use(abuse), and I am not planning on either.

With some upgraded parts from Marlin Crawler I think that it should be able to hold up pretty well.

The big one being the thrust washer which is the common weak point to fail when you drop the clutch in first.
Also the HD bearing retainer, and a blueprint rebuild (ordering correct thickness clips to minimize play)

The Supra guys claim that this combination is good for up to 1000whp in the R154 so we will see how well it translates.

 

[GreaseMonkeyJP]

I forgot the billet 1-2 shift fork.

 

[GreaseMonkeyJP]

Well I didn't want to post about some other parts that are going in until I was sure that they would work.

It is the 5th gear assembly from the Dyna R452 which has a different ratio and should help out to reduce the rpms on the freeway.

Original R151: ~2700rpm@70mph
With Dyna 5th: ~2250rpm @70mph

There is some good information on this swap for R150 transmissions on other sites.

I can definitely say if you are planning on doing it to a R151 there is no way to remove the gear from the output shaft without a full teardown and a press. I started to distroy the original gear trying to remove it by itself. (Using a gear separator on the press)

Now all that is left is some more cleaning of parts and final assembly.

 

[divemedic]

Very cool. Curious if the economy will be worth it. Even at 100/110 I will get 22-ish mpg.

 

[GreaseMonkeyJP]

On summer Diesel I am averaging just over 23mpg right now. (Daily commute, 25 miles of mostly freeway at 115km/h)

I really wanted to swap in the transmission first and see how the new gearing worked with the 1PZ engine before I swapped engines, but the input shaft difference is going to mean that I have to swap them both at the same time.

 

[GreaseMonkeyJP]

So I started to go through the engine and check it before the swap and was pleased by what I found under the valve cover.

It almost looks too nice under there.

 

[divemedic]

Looks new

 

[GreaseMonkeyJP]

Finally got in parts to finish up the assembly of the transfer case.
Unfortunately the split case gasket kit from cruiser outfitters didn't include all of the correct gaskets.

No big deal a quick trip to NAPA and I was happy to find that you can still by gasket paper. So a few minutes of cutting and I was good to go.

 

[SNLC]

I agree the H151 is a stronger box, but for now I am going to stick with the R151. As I said this cruiser is going to see more freeway than trail, and most of the complaints that I have heard about the R series failing involve tractor tires, or mine use(abuse), and I am not planning on either.

With some upgraded parts from Marlin Crawler I think that it should be able to hold up pretty well.
View attachment 1473132
The big one being the thrust washer which is the common weak point to fail when you drop the clutch in first.
Also the HD bearing retainer, and a blueprint rebuild (ordering correct thickness clips to minimize play)

The Supra guys claim that this combination is good for up to 1000whp in the R154 so we will see how well it translates.

It is not a bad trans at all and those upgrades are killer. The 1PZ is also a great engine.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

nothing, just a carbon copy of the hz with 1 less cylinder and slightly less horsepower. they're all slow.

I just bought a PZJ70 and it pulls great considering it is an N/A and a 5cyl. Idles very smooth too. I am impressed with it and I have played with a lot of diesels. It gets a bad reputation unjustly in my opinion. After doing many hours of research on it all I can find being an issue is the duel mass flywheel which Exedy makes an upgrade for. Great little motor in my opinion.

Cheers

 

[GreaseMonkeyJP]

The 70series have the main vacuum line cross over at the front of the engine while the 80 series that the engine came from just had a coolant line for the turbo here.

After some digging I was able to find P/N: 44777-60351, and bracket P/N: 44754-60020.

Unfortunately I forgot to also order another preformed coolant line for the tight turn where it connects to the coolant output, and std. tubing was kinking. After a bit of thinking I came up with just bending the old coolant cross over tube into the correct shape and then slipping it into a length of std. tubing.

It made the tight bend without an issue.

 

[GreaseMonkeyJP]

Well everything was going well until I went to intal my new timing belt only to realize that I ordered a timing belt for the 1PZ/1HZ instead of the one for a 1HD. So I took a forced break from the engine and got my gauges installed

 

[GreaseMonkeyJP]

So I had a dash pod that I brought back from Japan ( unfortunately not the original one).

I just wanted to replace the original outside temp display with the new gauges. So I sanded off all of the extra items that I no longer need and just resprayed the back side with black paint.

After drilling some new holes, and removing some additional material behind the face plate I was able to install the gauges.

 

[ForealBoreal]

I ran into the gasket issue the first time I rebuilt a transfer.
Just did one and I ordered the correct gaskets for the 5th gear housing to make life easier.

 

[GreaseMonkeyJP]

With the gasket I was really just happy to find the uncut sheets of gasket material so easily. I was really worried about getting blank stares from the guy on the other side of the counter.

 

[GreaseMonkeyJP]

I decided to go ahead and do the BEBs since I had the engine on a stand even though from what I have found it wasn't an issue on the 1HD-FT (after the bearing design change).

(tops are on the bottom, and cylinder 1 is on the left, 1 and 2 are set aside because they are No.3 size bearings, while there rest are No.4. all were replaced with their original size OEM parts)

There was only a little bit of wear, but it is still good knowing that there are new Toyota bearings and connecting rod bolts under there.

 

[GreaseMonkeyJP]

Well I have been hard at work so I am a little behind at posting updates.

To check and make sure that everything was good I went ahead and fired the engine up on the stand.

I was super excited when it fired right up on the first try.

This also gave me a chance to try out a trick that I had heard of but never tried.
The zip tie belt...

It actually worked really well for spinning the water pump. No wierd noise, and seamed to be gripping pretty well with no noticable wear. Not sure how it would handle the load of an alternator and fan thought.

 

[Gun Runner 5]

Well I have been hard at work so I am a little behind at posting updates.

To check and make sure that everything was good I went ahead and fired the engine up on the stand.
View attachment 1509920
I was super excited when it fired right up on the first try.

This also gave me a chance to try out a trick that I had heard of but never tried.
The zip tie belt...
View attachment 1509922
It actually worked really well for spinning the water pump. No wierd noise, and seamed to be gripping pretty well with no noticable wear. Not sure how it would handle the load of an alternator and fan thought.

In case you're not aware, your inbox is full.

 

[GreaseMonkeyJP]

Inbox has been cleared out, thanks

 

[GreaseMonkeyJP]

The engine bay has also been cleared out.