HD automotive turbo kit

[audi2nr]

I’m in the same boat; I’m waiting to hear how the Pulsar GTX3582 comes on boost with our US Spec ECM and AFRs. As you mentioned, there’s little info regarding the Pulsar turbo so I’m wondering how it compares to the Garrett Turbo that was supplied in the Wits End kit. Two things for certain, the Pulsar is internally gated versus the Garrett requires a separate wastegate (adding cost to the build) and the Pulsar is water cooled VS the Garrett is only oil cooled. Would the additional water cooling help the Pulsar turbo last longer and Possibly help reduce the intake temps/under hood temps? Idk for sure but I’d assume so?

I sent an email to HDAuto asking about a smaller turbo, the GTX3576 along with shipping estimates to New Mexico, but haven’t heard back from them yet.

The wits end kit came with a borg warner oil cooled journal bearing turbo. The pulsar gtx3582 is a chinese knock off of the garrett gtx3582, it is ball bearing and watercooled like the garrett turbo. Water cooling won't reduce underhood temps but will help with turbo longevity. I highly recommend getting on the 1fz turbo landcruisers facebook page and reading their pinned post, it is now a word document that answers basically any question you could have regarding turbo charging the 1fz.

 

[DHwreckage]

I’m in the same boat; I’m waiting to hear how the Pulsar GTX3582 comes on boost with our US Spec ECM and AFRs. As you mentioned, there’s little info regarding the Pulsar turbo so I’m wondering how it compares to the Garrett Turbo that was supplied in the Wits End kit. Two things for certain, the Pulsar is internally gated versus the Garrett requires a separate wastegate (adding cost to the build) and the Pulsar is water cooled VS the Garrett is only oil cooled. Would the additional water cooling help the Pulsar turbo last longer and Possibly help reduce the intake temps/under hood temps? Idk for sure but I’d assume so?

I sent an email to HDAuto asking about a smaller turbo, the GTX3576 along with shipping estimates to New Mexico, but haven’t heard back from them yet.

There is quite a bit of info on the pulsar, tons have been using the turbo in Australia with no issues, per the pinned post in the 1FZ-FE turbo Land Cruiser grp on Facebook, with the 3582 you are looking at boost coming on at 1800rom and full boost around the mid 2k range. i also totally forgot about the exchange rate to the Basic kit its about $2200usd with the turbo blanket and downpipe....b/c of that I ended up buying the basic kit

Also any progress on your build @Fj80oregon?

 

[Fj80oregon]

Still in the works just have to finish up a couple engine builds. Also got another small project going then will be focusing on getting the turbo installed. Other small project pics.

 

[frankenyota]

I built my own J pipe based on the Witsend and other custom built ones before HD auto made the kit. Cheap to build if you have the skill to do so or a good mate. I run the Pulsar GTX3582 which has very good reviews from many aussies using it on the Ford barra engines which are a 4 litre straight six.
I did purchase the hose kit for the pulsar and a turbo beanie from HD auto and they are good to deal with, the oil pressure fitting in the hose kit was an NPT and should have been a BSP to suit Toyota otherwise l have had no issues.
I have read lately that the GTX3576 may have been a better choice for more low down torque but very happy with the performance from mine at 8 PSI, its a different vehicle to drive now.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Ok back on track! Now trying to figure out intake from turbo outlet to throttle body, it’s a tight fit center to center is only 7” front to back and will be fighting the breather on the intake. The left to right I have 5.25” face to face. Don’t want to order a bunch of different Silicone hoses but might have to. The turbo outlet is 2.5” and the throttle body inlet is 3” so I have to figure a reducer in there somewhere. What ideas do you guys have go silicone or fab an aluminum piece?

 

[Fj80oregon]

I built my own J pipe based on the Witsend and other custom built ones before HD auto made the kit. Cheap to build if you have the skill to do so or a good mate. I run the Pulsar GTX3582 which has very good reviews from many aussies using it on the Ford barra engines which are a 4 litre straight six.
I did purchase the hose kit for the pulsar and a turbo beanie from HD auto and they are good to deal with, the oil pressure fitting in the hose kit was an NPT and should have been a BSP to suit Toyota otherwise l have had no issues.
I have read lately that the GTX3576 may have been a better choice for more low down torque but very happy with the performance from mine at 8 PSI, its a different vehicle to drive now.

Do you have any pictures of your intake? And good work making your own!

 

[Cruisers and Co]

Ok back on track! Now trying to figure out intake from turbo outlet to throttle body, it’s a tight fit center to center is only 7” front to back and will be fighting the breather on the intake. The left to right I have 5.25” face to face. Don’t want to order a bunch of different Silicone hoses but might have to. The turbo outlet is 2.5” and the throttle body inlet is 3” so I have to figure a reducer in there somewhere. What ideas do you guys have go silicone or fab an aluminum piece?

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Wow that HD pipe really positions the turbo very far forwards.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Wow that HD pipe really positions the turbo very far forwards.

Yah wanna send me your j-pipe! Or the whole kit minus the turbo!!! I’ll test fit and give a honest review

 

[frankenyota]

Do you have any pictures of your intake? And good work making your own!

Check out my build thread for some pictures

Migaloo the white Turbo 80

After owning a gen1 Hilux for 15 years l was looking for a comfortable touring vehicle I could go camping and do some beach work and Fraser Island fishing trips. So in 2018 the search began for a new rig. The choices were an 80 series or 100 series wagon with solid front axle. A white 80 series...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Cruisers and Co]

Yah wanna send me your j-pipe! Or the whole kit minus the turbo!!! I’ll test fit and give a honest review

In the middle of producing the next batch right now so that actually may be a possibility soon...

 

[jjdeneen918]

Only can speak of the Wits End Kit, because I own one.
I had the first production kit upon release. I recall having to contact Joey because one of the silicone pieces was incorrect. He sent the wrong piece, it was fixed with a silicone piece that “necked down” to the correct diameter to mate up & complete the install.
So there are silicone pieces available that have different sizes diameters on each end.

 

[PIP]

Is there room to combine two 180 bends into a smooth "S" bend instead of trying to make two sharp 90's?

If not, then a 2.5" to 30" 90 elbow reducer, short 3" tube, then 3" 90 elbow.

 

[jjdeneen918]

Here is the piping showing the 2 90* bends.
Not sure how else you could cram in the piping.
The Wits End kits were designed to be compatible with a duel battery set-up and the York air compressor set up.

 

[Cruisers and Co]

Here is the piping showing the 2 90* bends.
Not sure how else you could cram in the piping.
The Wits End kits were designed to be compatible with a duel battery set-up and the York air compressor set up.

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His problem is how far forward the turbo gets placed. It's outlet is right where the crank case vent is. The Wits End and Cruisers & Company kit sits further back to clear that. You almost need to clock the turbo to point up and then shoot over to the throttle body inlet with a 90 over the top of the turbo. Maybe sacrifice a hood brace to make the clearance necessary?

 

[blbuck88]

Afternoon,
I completed my turbo install a few weeks ago. I used the HD Auto J pipe along with their water/oil lines and a Pulsar GTX3576. All the other items I either had or sourced separately. There is a 2”-2.5” elbow at the turbo, a 2.5” aluminum 90* then a straight 2.5” - 3” coupler at the throttle body. I haven’t had a chance to install a recirculating blow off valve yet but I’ll weld in a 1” pipe in the 2.5” aluminum 90* that’s in between the two silicone sections. I have 2,390 miles so far testing everything out; low boost (5psi spring in my wastegate) but night and day different!!

 

[Fj80oregon]

Afternoon,
I completed my turbo install a few weeks ago. I used the HD Auto J pipe along with their water/oil lines and a Pulsar GTX3576. All the other items I either had or sourced separately. There is a 2”-2.5” elbow at the turbo, a 2.5” aluminum 90* then a straight 2.5” - 3” coupler at the throttle body. I haven’t had a chance to install a recirculating blow off valve yet but I’ll weld in a 1” pipe in the 2.5” aluminum 90* that’s in between the two silicone sections. I have 2,390 miles so far testing everything out; low boost (5psi spring in my wastegate) but night and day different!!

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Nice work! Got any more pictures of the whole engine bay, how did you hook up your breather pre turbo?

 

[blbuck88]

I hooked up the breather into the elbow that connects the MAF to the turbo inlet tube.

 

[blbuck88]

I choose to route the intake to the turbo this way versus the Wits End way because I might throw a W2A intercooler on it and I’d need the space towards the firewall to do so.

The bad side is that I had to cut/extend the MAF connection on my brand new wire harness some and I had to tilt the MAF sensor. I’m not 100% happy with the MAF placement as it slightly touches the hood when it’s closed (technically, the lid of the air filter that touches). Nor have I made a new bracket to attach the MAF to the stock air box until I decide if I really like the current setup. My initial thoughts are to alter the lid of the air filter to accommodate the MAF and give a 1/4” or so more clearance for the hood. But for my testing purposes this works fine.

 

[frankenyota]

@blbuck88 I cut down one of my airbox legs by 10mm which lowered it and cleared the bonnet on my turbo set up.

Matt

 

[blbuck88]

@blbuck88 I cut down one of my airbox legs by 10mm which lowered it and cleared the bonnet on my turbo set up.

Matt

That’s a really good idea. Do you recall what leg (of the 3) did you cut and reweld?