Having problems getting Birfield shafts splines to engage the differential splines (1 Viewer)

[pb4ugo]

Yes, earlier frt end housings balls need to be clearanced to fit later model larger birfs. I didn't realize this hasn't been done or what yr you're frt end is.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I went in to this without knowing that and the original Birfields I sold to a MUD member with the 4 speed and transfer case so I didn't have anything to compare. Working alone on this project I will run into problems that have to be solved one at a time.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I worked on the short side grinding for clearance in the knuckle ball until the Birfield would fit and engage in the locker splines and rotate with the differential

Tell tail high spot to know where and when to grind, rinse and repeat until the splines would engage in the locker

Got enough clearance to engage the splines in the locker and rotate, then pull out the Birfield and cleaned up and started packing with grease

One cleaned up installed the Birfield and packed with more grease

Covered the knuckle and zip tied the bag in place until I get the backing plate eliminators

 

[POPO AGIE]

Worked on the long side today and got the clearance opened enough to pass the Birfield passed the trunnions and the splines engaged in the locker.

Cleaned everything up and put grease in the inner axle seal and put the Birfield back in and packed with grease.

Bagged the long side until I can build the hubs

 

[Green Bean]

Persistence paid off. Great job!

 

[POPO AGIE]

Thank You.

I wish I would had know about the clearance before I built the knuckles but now I know. Glad I had the die grinders and burr bits to do the job.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Did you test fit just the birfield first w/o the axle attached? That's the only way you can tell if there is sufficient birfield clearance, and what you may still have to grind. When grinding, most of the removal will be from the lower flat. Only a smaller amount from the top flat if I recall correctly, about 80/20. Also, if this an elocker, and you did not lock the locker when you removed the axle, the collar may have moved into the way and the inner axle will not be able to go into the carrier. A broom handle or piece of plastic tubing will work to relocate the collar. Ask me how I know.

Also, know that once you torque down the upper and lower knuckle arms, you squish the knuckle ends a little bit and can loose a bit of clearance the grinding created. You may have to grind a bit more to overcome that. I had to.

You def need to push down on the birfield to get the inner axle to raise up. It's a game of patience, if it feels like it has gone in a bit, then I use my foot to rotate the front driveshaft. That usually does. it. Good luck.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I did find that the upper side did not need as much grinding. I stopped all grinding once the Birfield would pass and was able to engage the inner splines.

Once I have the backing plate eliminators I will build out the spindles and hub and mount the rotors and calipers.

 

[jim land]

The bad news is , your knuckles are on the wrong side , L and R
The caliper go on the back of the knuckle , not on the front

 

[POPO AGIE]

The bad news is , your knuckles are on the wrong side , L and R
The caliper go on the back of the knuckle , not on the front

That was intentional. I am installing a big brake kit that has an adapter flange for the new calipers. The new calipers wont fit the lugs on the knuckle because they are longer for the 13.3" rotors.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Did you test fit just the birfield first w/o the axle attached? That's the only way you can tell if there is sufficient birfield clearance, and what you may still have to grind. When grinding, most of the removal will be from the lower flat. Only a smaller amount from the top flat if I recall correctly, about 80/20. Also, if this an elocker, and you did not lock the locker when you removed the axle, the collar may have moved into the way and the inner axle will not be able to go into the carrier. A broom handle or piece of plastic tubing will work to relocate the collar. Ask me how I know.

Also, know that once you torque down the upper and lower knuckle arms, you squish the knuckle ends a little bit and can loose a bit of clearance the grinding created. You may have to grind a bit more to overcome that. I had to.

You def need to push down on the birfield to get the inner axle to raise up. It's a game of patience, if it feels like it has gone in a bit, then I use my foot to rotate the front driveshaft. That usually does. it. Good luck.

The new Birfields were already assembled and packed with grease when they came in the box.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

The new Birfields were already assembled and packed with grease when they came in the box.

That's usually the case. A 3 foot piece of 1.5" schedule 40 pipe will easily separate the birf from the inner axle to be able to use just the birf for fitting purposes without dealing with the inner axle. Just keep several snap rings for the slot on the outer edge of the inner axle for the refit when you have fully ground the knuckle and are ok with the birf fit. I keep a lot of moly grease to regrease the birf and to shove into the knuckle following the insertion of the birf/axle. You want to fill the knuckle about 3/4 full of moly.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I packed grease in the back of the ball and around the outside of the ball before installing the Birfields then packed around the Birfield. The outer Birfield is gun barrel drilled and a grease fitting is installed to grease the Birfield from the hub end.

I did not want to disassemble the axle shafts and did not even know there was not going to be enough clearance to install the Birfields until I tried.

Both sides are ready to build out to the Asian HD hubs and install the calipers after I finish painting them.

 

[POPO AGIE]

The bad news is , your knuckles are on the wrong side , L and R
The caliper go on the back of the knuckle , not on the front

Here is why I put the knuckles on the opposite side for the new caliper mounts.

The original mounting points are now redundant.