Builds Hard Ways - Rigger's 1969 FJ40

[Rigger]

Fun following your build--my new to me 69', factory soft top version, is close to your vintage and has many of the same quirks (differences) from earlier in the year. Mine is in the shop getting a laundry list of deferred work done. Anyway, you rig is very similar to mine and, again, I enjoy following your progress! m

Thanks!

 

[Rigger]

Goodness gracious. I have GOT to get back on my project and make some progress! I’ll take a stab at this dash pad.

 

[Rigger]

 

[Rigger]

Trying to figure out how all these bits go together. I think I got it. These funnel screws are tricky.

 

[65swb45]

Looks like a lot of blistering along the cowl Alfred.

Plans?

 

[Rigger]

 

[Rigger]

I love me some genuine Toyota parts

 

[Rigger]

Looks like a lot of blistering along the cowl Alfred.

Plans?

Plans = none right now. The paint along those two edges is blistering but the metal is good. I reefed on it while I was straightening that dash pad support. Metal is still good. I’m not doing anything with it for now.

 

[Rigger]

Mark, I want to get with you some day soon about the carb and linkage we discussed last fall. I’d like to pull the trigger on that and replace this oddball carb on this truck.

 

[65swb45]

IH8 blisters. I’d pop all those paint blisters and put some motor oil on there at the very least before folding the windshield back up for good.

As far as the carb, post a pic or two of what you’ve got, and I’ll call you Thursday when I’m back in the office.

 

[cruiserdan]

Or scrub them and spray a rust converter.

Don't ignore it Alfred.

 

[Dizzy]

My coolant leak will, I hope, be resolved by adding this part to the mix. It threads in at top/back of motor. Does anyone know - do I need thread sealer on it?

I reach for teflon tape on anything coolant related. It seals out coolant from corroding the threads, it can withstand temperatures that could fry a turkey, it is non-reactive, it possibly has the lowest friction coefficient of any solid. Generally speaking, pipe threads are tapered, and, in theory, they form a nearly hermetic seal.

 

[Martyt]

I agree with cruiserdan-- rust converter!!

 

[mrboatman]

Hey Rigger did you ever get your back up light switch working?
JP

 

[69LC]

Instead if Teflon tape, try to find some Teflon pipe “dope”. I use it liberally on tapered threads so I don’t get chunks of tape in the plumbing systems I build.

 

[Rigger]

Hey Rigger did you ever get your back up light switch working?
JP

No. The switch is stuck. I can't seem to free it up.

 

[Rigger]

I tried to start the truck this evening. No joy. The truck will not start.

It behaves as though it is not getting fuel. It turns over but does not fire.

I disconnected the fuel line at the carb and turned the motor over. Verified that the fuel pump is working; it pumps fuel.

While turning the motor over, I gave it a shot of starting fluid. It comes to life momentarily, then hisses and dies.

Any ideas?

 

[mrboatman]

Sounds like a possible stuck needle valve preventing fuel from entering the fuel bowl. I ran across my old back up switch for a column shift that works. Cover the shipping and i`ll ship it to you if you need one.
JP

 

[cruiserdan]

Agreed with stuck needle. We see that often with the carbureted vehicles in the collection. If you do not see fuel in the sight glass that is probably the issue. Sometimes tapping on the carb at the fuel inlet with a mallet or wood block will knock the needle loose.

 

[Rigger]