Builds Hard Ways - Rigger's 1969 FJ40

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Draw them in with bolts on the outside flange and a nut on the pin threads. It helps greatly to align the large circular part of the flange with the large hole in the hanger using a jack or come-a-long or whatever you have. I've even driven a cold chisel between the frame and spring to push the spring down for better alignment. Once you get the large round part of the pin flange started into the large hole on the hanger, alternate tightening of the flange bolts and pin nut will pull the pin into place easily.

Your photos aren't really clear for me, but it looks like you need to jack the spring upwards a little.

By the way, it's easier to seat the fixed end of the spring first and then work on the shackle end, which is a lot more forgiving. I've done it the hard way myself, though.

Above pics show the pins. Not sure what I need to do to push those the rest of the way in.
 
Thanks @spotcruiser I think I mostly needed a break and a fresh start. I'm now doing what you suggest and I'm making headway. Going much better.
 
Finished installing the rear axle spring pins and shackles. Too hot in the garage now so retreated to the house.
 
This is not my Cruiser, but I like this look. Open top, not too crazy with the lift, not too aggressive with the tire tread. Mostly stockish.

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Got these on amazon for $52 each, delivered.
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Spent some more time in the garage today. It was very warm so I knocked off early. Got the two rear tires on, and also the rear shocks. I also studied the rear brake circuit, which is one of the last bits of plumbing left to do.

It's a fun project overall.
 
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Ok. Sidetracked by my frozen (rusted) windshield hinges. Gotta get these squared away.
 
Anyone know if I can use later FJ40 (1975 and up) windshield hinges on an early FJ40 (1970)?
 
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I'm up a creek with my windshield.

Good news: The captive nuts at the cowl are all functional, no issues.

Bad news: The captive nuts in the windshield frame are a mess. In the second and third pics above, I have bolts threaded into the locations that are okay. The others are rusty, and they actually appear to be too small. I'm really puzzled. I've never done any tapping, and am not clear on technique necessary to get a good thread. How much push? How much twist?

I'm debating drilling a large (1-1/2" diam??) hole on the inside of the windshield frame and using it as access for nuts and thru-bolts. What do you guys think of that crazy idea?
 
I'm up a creek with my windshield.

Good news: The captive nuts at the cowl are all functional, no issues.

Bad news: The captive nuts in the windshield frame are a mess. In the second and third pics above, I have bolts threaded into the locations that are okay. The others are rusty, and they actually appear to be too small. I'm really puzzled. I've never done any tapping, and am not clear on technique necessary to get a good thread. How much push? How much twist?

I'm debating drilling a large (1-1/2" diam??) hole on the inside of the windshield frame and using it as access for nuts and thru-bolts. What do you guys think of that crazy idea?


Id try running a tap through before cutting an access hole. Tapping an existing thread is super easy. Just like installing a bolt. Use some lube and it will clean right up.

Its really easy to take the low road on these trucks. We owe it to them to take the extra time to do things right.
 
Make sure it goes in straight, just like @Jdc1 says super easy.
 
Ok. Got em cleared. I think a PO used epoxy and a smaller screw on a few of these. I did some predrilling and then used the tap. They're not perfect now but they are pretty good. Thanks for the tips, guys.

I ordered a new windshield cushion because mine was shot. I also ordered new side view mirrors that bolt to the cowl using the windshield hinge screws.

Onward and upward.
 
Managed to get in the garage this evening. Installed my City Racer t-stat & water neck kit.

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