Build Hard Ways - Rigger's 1969 FJ40

[Rigger]

I think I’m being pretty clumsy about articulating what I need. Im going to post a pic tomorrow.

 

[Rigger]

I need a piece of metal (a bracket) that can provide a fixed point to attach the return spring to.

Looking at this pic, the two carb attachment nuts can anchor the bracket. The bracket can then reach over to the right and grab the spring.

 

[Rigger]

Here’s a sketch of the bracket. I could fashion something out of sheet metal. But I think something like this exists already.

 

[3_puppies]

the bracket you posted and the bracket @RAGINGMATT posted may not give you enough room for a spring, as the bracket hooks around the carb right towards the spot you need to hook the spring onto.

 

[Jdc1]

Here’s a sketch of the bracket. I could fashion something out of sheet metal. But I think something like this exists already.

View attachment 2042420

There is a 90 degree bend where the return spring mounts. Mark A should have one.

 

[Rigger]

the bracket you posted and the bracket @RAGINGMATT posted may not give you enough room for a spring, as the bracket hooks around the carb right towards the spot you need to hook the spring onto.

Hmmm. I hear ya. The distance might be too tight. I’ll have to go back to the drawing board.

 

[Rigger]

 

[ToyotaMatt]

- Bracket A was off a 1974 FJ40 F Engine

- Bracket B below is from a 1/75-7/80 2F fj40

- there is a Bracket that was used like from 1972 pro date era, @65swb45

has a stack of reproductions made at his shop , the entire bracket is FLAT , from what i recall , i dont have one , it';s sole use is for a return spring attachment point

- i have a bracket C , 8/80-1984 , but its much like bracket B below

 

[brew8]

Alfred I texted you a picture of one I have let me know if you think it will work and I'll throw it in the mail tomorrow.

 

[Rigger]

Worked a bit on cleaning up the tranny & transfer, and bell housing. Baked on 50 years old gumpta. It’s like epoxy.

 

[Rigger]

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Yuck! I don't miss all that crud.

 

[Rigger]

It is amazingly sticky. It has sand and gravel embedded in it. A real chore to work through.

I want to put the tunnel cover back in but I’m gonna chip away at this some more first.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

It is amazingly sticky. It has sand and gravel embedded in it. A real chore to work through.

I want to put the tunnel cover back in but I’m gonna chip away at this some more first.

hi Rigger ,

Great Job removing all the " Fossilized " Convential SAE 50 Motor Oil & STP oil Treatment .

instead of working your self to death on the Remainder of it , Try this :

- get 2-3 Rolls Thick Brawny Brand Paper Towels

- Gallon Of Low Odor Mineral Spirits from Home Depot

- a text book ALL plastic Liquor Bottle Pour Spout , Like they use at Bars on TOP Shelf bottles

most high end or bigger Liquor stores sell a 2 pack for like $1.99


- once back at your shop , install the spout into the top pour hole of the Mineral spirits Metal Gas Can style can

it will be a snug fit but not a tight fit , then get your 3-M best Electrical tape and wide it around quite a bit , to

form a nice seal and snug everything up .

- start wrapping the dry paper towels as tight as u possibly can without tearing them apart , then slowly

" Dribble " the mineral spirits on top and then sides of your gear boxes , u want the towels wet but not saturated

to the point of dripping on ground

- then take your hands with rubber gloves on and Conform & Press in the paper towels so they HUG the Profile

of the entire bell housing to your parking brake drum .

- see if more Spirits is needed and most likley will , ADD only a little at a time

Your Goal is a Pre-Saturation state


Now u can wait & go do other thing for at least 24 hours , checking back so often to Dribble more Spirits

and Conform the paper towels again if need be



Ok, 24 Hours is done ,

pick a test corner & peal back the Towels , the Remaining Fossilized STP SAE 50 should be ready to simply

Wipe away and Off with only Mild Effort ,

the spirits have Melted Down the Fossilized



not sure what i would call this except the " Cold Tank " method




I have used this Technique several times with good results





matt

 

[Rigger]

The upper part of the battery hold down has misaligned holes. So it sits at this goofy angle. What gives?

Edit: I seem to have the wrong battery hold down device. I shall have to track down the right one.

 

[Rigger]

I plugged off the vacuum actuator for the transfer case. I was hoping for some improvement in the way the truck runs. No joy. It still has that slight momentary hesitation as I accelerate. You can see both caps in this pic.

 

[3_puppies]

Alfred, it may be a visual thing, but the right bellhousing mount the rear bolt above the drive shaft looks like there is a gap between the mount and bellhousing. looks like the shank of the bolt is showing.
Paul

 

[bulldog77]

Here’s a sketch of the bracket. I could fashion something out of sheet metal. But I think something like this exists already.

View attachment 2042420

This is what my bracket looks like. The spring that you have is much longer though.

 

[Rigger]

Thanks. My spring is generic and is temporary.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

The upper part of the battery hold down has misaligned holes. So it sits at this goofy angle. What gives?

Edit: I seem to have the wrong battery hold down device. I shall have to track down the right one.

View attachment 2048689

Hi Rigger ,

I was doing some Inventory Work at the Shop and came across this :

Correct OEM part# for your Truck

it's been Media Blasted , and triple zinc rich primed before 2 finish coats

Stainless Steel Mounting Hardware is included as well

PM me your Shipping info and i will have it sent out to Ya...........