Builds Hard Ways - Rigger's 1969 FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rigger
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #742
I need a piece of metal (a bracket) that can provide a fixed point to attach the return spring to.
Looking at this pic, the two carb attachment nuts can anchor the bracket. The bracket can then reach over to the right and grab the spring.
Looking at this pic, the two carb attachment nuts can anchor the bracket. The bracket can then reach over to the right and grab the spring.
the bracket you posted and the bracket @RAGINGMATT posted may not give you enough room for a spring, as the bracket hooks around the carb right towards the spot you need to hook the spring onto.
There is a 90 degree bend where the return spring mounts. Mark A should have one.
- Thread starter
- #746
Hmmm. I hear ya. The distance might be too tight. I’ll have to go back to the drawing board.
- Bracket A was off a 1974 FJ40 F Engine
- Bracket B below is from a 1/75-7/80 2F fj40
- there is a Bracket that was used like from 1972 pro date era, @65swb45
has a stack of reproductions made at his shop , the entire bracket is FLAT , from what i recall , i dont have one , it';s sole use is for a return spring attachment point
- i have a bracket C , 8/80-1984 , but its much like bracket B below
- Bracket B below is from a 1/75-7/80 2F fj40
- there is a Bracket that was used like from 1972 pro date era, @65swb45
has a stack of reproductions made at his shop , the entire bracket is FLAT , from what i recall , i dont have one , it';s sole use is for a return spring attachment point
- i have a bracket C , 8/80-1984 , but its much like bracket B below
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Yuck! I don't miss all that crud.
- Thread starter
- #753
It is amazingly sticky. It has sand and gravel embedded in it. A real chore to work through.
I want to put the tunnel cover back in but I’m gonna chip away at this some more first.
I want to put the tunnel cover back in but I’m gonna chip away at this some more first.
hi Rigger ,
Great Job removing all the " Fossilized " Convential SAE 50 Motor Oil & STP oil Treatment .
instead of working your self to death on the Remainder of it , Try this :
- get 2-3 Rolls Thick Brawny Brand Paper Towels
- Gallon Of Low Odor Mineral Spirits from Home Depot
- a text book ALL plastic Liquor Bottle Pour Spout , Like they use at Bars on TOP Shelf bottles
most high end or bigger Liquor stores sell a 2 pack for like $1.99
- once back at your shop , install the spout into the top pour hole of the Mineral spirits Metal Gas Can style can
it will be a snug fit but not a tight fit , then get your 3-M best Electrical tape and wide it around quite a bit , to
form a nice seal and snug everything up .
- start wrapping the dry paper towels as tight as u possibly can without tearing them apart , then slowly
" Dribble " the mineral spirits on top and then sides of your gear boxes , u want the towels wet but not saturated
to the point of dripping on ground
- then take your hands with rubber gloves on and Conform & Press in the paper towels so they HUG the Profile
of the entire bell housing to your parking brake drum .
- see if more Spirits is needed and most likley will , ADD only a little at a time
Your Goal is a Pre-Saturation state
Now u can wait & go do other thing for at least 24 hours , checking back so often to Dribble more Spirits
and Conform the paper towels again if need be
Ok, 24 Hours is done ,
pick a test corner & peal back the Towels , the Remaining Fossilized STP SAE 50 should be ready to simply
Wipe away and Off with only Mild Effort ,
the spirits have Melted Down the Fossilized
not sure what i would call this except the " Cold Tank " method
I have used this Technique several times with good results
matt
- Thread starter
- #755
The upper part of the battery hold down has misaligned holes. So it sits at this goofy angle. What gives?
Edit: I seem to have the wrong battery hold down device. I shall have to track down the right one.
Edit: I seem to have the wrong battery hold down device. I shall have to track down the right one.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #756
I plugged off the vacuum actuator for the transfer case. I was hoping for some improvement in the way the truck runs. No joy. It still has that slight momentary hesitation as I accelerate. You can see both caps in this pic.
Alfred, it may be a visual thing, but the right bellhousing mount the rear bolt above the drive shaft looks like there is a gap between the mount and bellhousing. looks like the shank of the bolt is showing.
Paul
Paul
Hi Rigger ,
I was doing some Inventory Work at the Shop and came across this :
Correct OEM part# for your Truck
it's been Media Blasted , and triple zinc rich primed before 2 finish coats
Stainless Steel Mounting Hardware is included as well
PM me your Shipping info and i will have it sent out to Ya...........
