Happy Rock Warrior Day (10 Viewers)

[Markuson]

Not so happy rock warrior day. Bad rubbing on the front tires/back mud flap fastener. I guess the 1.25” spacers must be the problem. Despite dozens of posts no clear answer on if they will fit without spacers because there are no 1” or .75” spacers to be found anywhere. Incredibly frustrated. They look great though.

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Paging Matt Gaskins - @mcgaskins who I believe did well with thaf size...but I csn’t remember now if he was still stock bumpers with them. Brain fog.

(For some reason I picture after-market bumpers on your truck in my head, @TheGrrrrr ).

With stock bumper in front... it will take skirt trimmig/reshaping at least, and possibly an adjustment to your upper control arms or a bit of tweaki g duri g alignment. Even then, it will be tough not to touch something with the extra sweep.

I wouldn't think you’d be hitting KDSS. Those are only about 11.5” wide. 35x12.5 definitely touch KdSS on inside bend, but 285/75/17 def don’t on mine.

Can you swap tire size, or are you locjed in with those?

Bora majes .75” spacers that work with RW. But if you go wttg Bora, ask if they have stainless bolts/nuts as an option. I used bora .75” when I ran 35’s. Spacers themselves were fine, but the bolts/nuts rusted badly. Its been 4+ years since I bought mine.

Did you already try fitment without the spacers?

 

[4wheelgreg]

I see his build says 2.5 OME , could be most guys are running the BP-51 which have a heavier spring with 285 , I believe the coil is rated for 750 lb , I know there are coil options for the standard 2.5 OME shock coil over .
Wonder with the skids and bud built plates weight are dropping that lift which is going to cause contact .
Just did a buddies with BP-51 , no bumpers and still set at 20mm preload , he’s getting bumpers ... Lots of clearance with Toyo Open country 285/60r18 with 1.25 spyder spacers .

 

[Whiskerz]

Now to order new center caps , Thanks

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Paging Matt Gaskins - @mcgaskins who I believe did well with thaf size...but I csn’t remember now if he was still stock bumpers with them. Brain fog.

(For some reason I picture after-market bumpers on your truck in my head, @TheGrrrrr ).

With stock bumper in front... it will take skirt trimmig/reshaping at least, and possibly an adjustment to your upper control arms or a bit of tweaki g duri g alignment. Even then, it will be tough not to touch something with the extra sweep.

I wouldn't think you’d be hitting KDSS. Those are only about 11.5” wide. 35x12.5 definitely touch KdSS on inside bend, but 285/75/17 def don’t on mine.

Can you swap tire size, or are you locjed in with those?

Bora majes .75” spacers that work with RW. But if you go wttg Bora, ask if they have stainless bolts/nuts as an option. I used bora .75” when I ran 35’s. Spacers themselves were fine, but the bolts/nuts rusted badly. Its been 4+ years since I bought mine.

Did you already try fitment without the spacers?

I had already pushed the front of the wheel well forward and only had very minor contact there, which I solved by pushing further. I’m going to have discount tire remove the spacers today to see if I have any issues. At a minimum I would expect that to solve the rub on the trailing part of the wheel well. Just not sure yet what new issues it might create. Definitely seems like a 1” or .75” spacer would work well for solving the current issue and avoiding new ones. Anybody have experience with ECCPP brand spacers? The Jeep forums seem to be positive on them, but those guys will run anything. It seems like those are my only options for a quick solution. Bora will take weeks if not months.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Looks like without spacers I should be ok. We just did the front driver side and I have about .25 inch of clearance on the KDSS and not interference with the UCA. Going to do the rest of the wheels now, but I assume the front driver is where the bulk of the issues would be.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Looks like without spacers I should be ok. We just did the front driver side and I have about .25 inch of clearance on the KDSS and not interference with the UCA. Going to do the rest of the wheels now, but I assume the front driver is where the bulk of the issues would be.

All 4 corners running fine with no spacers. I’ll be leaving it this way despite my preference for the spaced look. Happy Rock Warrior Day!

 

[unclemat]

All 4 corners running fine with no spacers. I’ll be leaving it this way despite my preference for the spaced look. Happy Rock Warrior Day!

Put more miles and report back.

I spent hours and hours researching the issue, and except one report of 285/75/16 KO2s (never truly confirmed), everyone says there is rubbing at least in some circumstances with that tire size regardless of wheel offset. Like under full lock in reverse, under load off road, etc.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Put more miles and report back.

I spent hours and hours researching the issue, and except one report of 285/75/16 KO2s (never truly confirmed), everyone says there is rubbing at least in some circumstances with that tire size regardless of wheel offset. Like under full lock in reverse, under load off road, etc.

To my knowledge the KDSS/tire relationship doesn’t change in a way that could create a problem under varying circumstances. The fact that my fender liners were already modified may be why I’m good to go.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

I see his build says 2.5 OME , could be most guys are running the BP-51 which have a heavier spring with 285 , I believe the coil is rated for 750 lb , I know there are coil options for the standard 2.5 OME shock coil over .
Wonder with the skids and bud built plates weight are dropping that lift which is going to cause contact .
Just did a buddies with BP-51 , no bumpers and still set at 20mm preload , he’s getting bumpers ... Lots of clearance with Toyo Open country 285/60r18 with 1.25 spyder spacers .

I’m using OME Nitro with the 03/23 heavy spring setup, so I don’t believe weight is a factor. It really just comes down to the fact that the RWs with the 1.25” spacers creates an effective offset of about +18 which is problematic with a 34” tire. Getting the offset to the +25 to +35 range would probably be optimal.

 

[unclemat]

To my knowledge the KDSS/tire relationship doesn’t change in a way that could create a problem under varying circumstances. The fact that my fender liners were already modified may be why I’m good to go.

I wish you good luck, because I would also want to put RGs in 285/75/17 on my 2021. But I remain skeptical. Under load things move, so if you are just clearing KDSS under normal conditions that may not hold. Liners/flaps are trivial. When you start hitting hard parts it's less so.

 

[linuxgod]

Someone else PM'ed me recently about whether 285/75R17 tires will fit without rubbing. Reposting my response to them since it seems like it may be helpful here:

Short answer is yes, they will rub, though you can minimize it with a little effort. I have a fairly lengthy thread where I put 34s on without a lift, did some trimming and tweaking, then eventually caved and just did the lift.

34's on stock setup - it's done, now some advice...

This week I swapped out the stock tires and wheels with 34s (Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 285/75R17) and Icon Six Speed 17" wheels with +25 offset. I also added the 3/8" Toyota front spring spacers, which gave me a small boost in front, but not quite as much as I expected (or maybe it did, but with...

forum.ih8mud.com

If you don't want to read the entire thread, my summary is you've got 3 options to minimize and/or eliminate the rubbing, depending on how much effort you want to put into it:

1. 285/70R17 with +50 offset (Rock Warrior) wheels shouldn't rub at all.

2. 285/75R17 with +50 offset (Rock Warrior) wheels. With some careful alignment this should be able to fit without rubbing. YMMV though and you may need to still implement a portion of the options below:

3.. 285/75R17 with +25 offset wheels. The rears are fine. Up front, you will find with +25 offset that the wheels take a bit wider arc when turning, and because they sit an extra 1.25" outward the wheel well shape is now "inset" and thus you'll rub in a few spots which are closer to the body:
- Remove the mudflaps (easy)
- Pull back the plastic liner where the mudflap was and use a hammer to push the mud flap mounting bracket inward a bit (not too hard, but it's difficult to reverse if you ever decide you want to put the mudflaps back)
- Use a heat gun (or hair dryer) to warm the plastic liner in the rear part of the front wheel well and then reshape it by pushing it inward (easy, takes a few minutes, no negative impacts)
- Remove the tiny plastic "air dam" in the front of the wheel well at the bottom (2 small bolts). (easy, no real impact)
- Trimming of the front part of the fender liner may be necessary depending on the alignment. (not too hard. not immediately reversible, though you could always replace the liner in the future if you ever wanted to go back to stock, as they just pop out with a few clips)

One place where many people rub is the inside edge of the KDSS arm. Some folks also rub slightly on the same edge of the sway bar on the passenger side. A good alignment tech who knows how to adjust caster can minimize this, though whether it can be easily eliminated is TBD. I run a lot of caster in my setup so I rub on these 2 spots, but only at full lock (e.g. when parking). In my case I just put up with the slight rub and back off the steering wheel very slightly if I feel it. If you want to eliminate this issue aside from alignment adjustments you may need the KDSS relocation bracket. They are ~$100 and not too hard to install, though they may leave your sway bar end links at a steeper angle which can cause faster bushing wear. There are some possible options for this though I've not personally tried them... yet.

 

[unclemat]

Yeah, one of the threads I read was yours, which convinced me 285/75/17 RGs cannot be done in "rubfree" fashion without KDSS relocation, which creates issues with end links.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

- Pull back the plastic liner where the mudflap was and use a hammer to push the mud flap mounting bracket inward a bit (not too hard, but it's difficult to reverse if you ever decide you want to put the mudflaps back)

This is the step that I wasn't prepared to do, but I also hadn't thought much about it. If I had done this, I would have been able to keep the 1.25" spacers. Awesome post and linked thread btw. I read a while back, but it didn't come up in my searches recently.

 

[linuxgod]

This is the step that I wasn't prepared to do, but I also hadn't thought much about it. If I had done this, I would have been able to keep the 1.25" spacers. Awesome post and linked thread btw. I read a while back, but it didn't come up in my searches recently.

Hey now you can put the spacers back *and* have a chance to smash stuff with a hammer!

 

[Rigger]

Spacers and 295's:

 

[USMCVader]

Spacers and 295's:

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That looks great! BTW, which rear bumper is that?

 

[Rigger]

That looks great! BTW, which rear bumper is that?

Thanks, man! Rear bumper is a Slee unit. I think I was among the first group of installs after he went into production.

 

[4wheelgreg]

Spacers and 295's:

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295/70r17 ? I think the 295 is a 33.3 x 11.8 . I have not order tires yet but torn between that and the 285/75r17 in RG tires . I’m BP51 , TJM -T13 but have not installed anything yet , still gathering parts , just about there .

 

[linuxgod]

295/70r17 ? I think the 295 is a 33.3 x 11.8 . I have not order tires yet but torn between that and the 285/75r17 in RG tires . I’m BP51 , TJM -T13 but have not installed anything yet , still gathering parts , just about there .

I dug the 285/75R17 Nitto RGs for the first 30k. Spectacular on the rocks and pretty good in snow early on. I was less impressed this winter, though I have ~45k on them and ~40% tread left. They are heavy though and I took a good 15-20% MPG hit just by installing them.

My truck is mud-tire noisy atm but I'm thinking it's a front bearing after playing with a set of chassis ears. I'll update you in a couple weeks if it gets quiet after that gets swapped or if I still feel like these tires are very noise (but compared to what others have said I have a lot more noise with the RGs than everyone else).

 

[isthatalexus]

Hello Fellow Rock Warrior Kids,

I am a fan of the ARB deflator widget, however, the thing does not clear the TRD RW (17") metal ring. Has anyone rotary-tooled their way around the valve stem opening on the ring? I understand this maneuver will throw off the balance, but that will be done soon anyway.

Background: I bought the truck with TRD RW (17") wheels wrapped in Nitto 185/75/17 w/ 1.24" spacers. This setup still rubs, and after a rather catastrophic sidewall failure during a too-ambitious ascent last weekend, I am taking the Gaijin path, and going with BFG 185/70/17 and losing the spacers. This is a no-rub, factory blessed configuration.

The dust cloud produced by the big fail was prodigious and made my head even balder.