Had a trail accident and need info/advice on replacing entire roof (1 Viewer)

Joined
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Yes, it can be rebuilt. There was a fairly new guy and his wife that came in and showed what they did to the truck they acquired. It had a serious issue like yours with the A-Pillar and he cut it all apart, rebuilt it all and it's back together.

I wish I could recall the member or the truck name. This has been in the last 8 months I think.
 
Joined
Sep 28, 2005
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186
Nahh... you can still wheel and not have a total thrasher trail rig. It just won't be a beauty queen anymore. :princess:

I like your thinking. This was/is my goal. I don't mind scratches, and little dents and dings but hopefully will avoid this kind of damage in the future. I am debating removing the fenders now though. I love the look of an 80 with fenders, but damn if those things don't get in the way of some trees.
 
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I like your thinking. This was/is my goal. I don't mind scratches, and little dents and dings but hopefully will avoid this kind of damage in the future. I am debating removing the fenders now though. I love the look of an 80 with fenders, but damn if those things don't get in the way of some trees.
The fenders really don't stick out more than the tires. However, if you are talking the flares, no need to take them off. Just run a few more trails. They kinda come off on their own. ;)
 
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Clovis, CA

Why? There are much better options.

CA33DA51-89FF-433A-92EE-ABB5A969C785.jpeg
 
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Socal
Consult your shop, it might be the best to cut at the base of the a-pillars and behind the sunroof, if you can get that whole piece.
Weld in the whole front cap to insure proper alignment.
It would be a much better result, and possibly comparable cost.
 

dirtyboots

Atrocious Driving
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Sonoma County, CA
Windrock has changed! There are bamillion spot welds in the gutter and along the tops of both FR and RR glass frames aka under the weatherstripping. Apply a chinesium grade spotweld cutter from Eastwood and just go through the skin to seperate the body panels. It's super thin. Like all body work start really minimally for cuts and go a little deeper as needed. I used a tiny drill bit to put a notch in the center of the OEM spotweld so the spotweld cutter wouldn't walk (as easily). Grind out the brazing on the A and D pillars. It'll be a gold line under the paint that follows the space between the spot welds. That's all that holds the skin on. The roof supports are "glued" but are likely not stuck on anymore. I have done three skins and all of them had separated.
Sawzall the donor skin below the braze mark and gutter and it will fit on the top of a large SUV with some straps and 2x4. I was able to do one by myself, and another with the help of a gimpy friend with one functional arm. It's not that hard. Just based on what I've seen I wouldn't cut in to any of the ABCD pillars. I would recommend only peeling off the skin. The pic below has the top of the windshield frame removed which I don't recommend. It was part of the learning curve and unecessary.
You can 110v mig it back on and use all manner of 3m adhesives to put it back together. Or take it to a shop with a proper spot welder and adhesive dispenser. HTH just a real down and dirty for the roof swap idea. Like most here I'd bet a shop can hammer that out pretty well.
IMG_3001.JPG
 

YMT

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Mar 20, 2017
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El Portal, CA
@dirtyboots has the right idea. Don't cut into the A-D pillars. That's what I did on mine and ended up changing plans due to structural concerns.

Also, remove your windshield and use a hydraulic pump (Porta-pak or other brand) to try and bend things back as close to stock BEFORE any cuts are made- I didn't do this and wished I had, as others on here have had significant success.
 

Whiskerz

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LKQ In Fayetteville GA. near me had 2-80 series Land Cruisers. If they are still there it might be worth a ride for donor sheet metal.
 
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I would just cut up the roof and make it a pop top tent conversion roof. Would be great for camping. Here are a couple examples:

 

haulin auss

@_haulin_auss
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Mar 29, 2016
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227
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Raleigh, NC

lmfao - this was my first thought too. I'm easy to convince though, i'm considering a campteq just to replace my rattling sunroof :rofl:

Side thought - I recently sold my prinsu because I prefer the 80 without a rack. My only hesitation to getting rid of it was that it might help protect the truck in these situations, anyone have any experience with that?
 
Joined
Sep 28, 2005
Messages
186
lmfao - this was my first thought too. I'm easy to convince though, i'm considering a campteq just to replace my rattling sunroof :rofl:

Side thought - I recently sold my prinsu because I prefer the 80 without a rack. My only hesitation to getting rid of it was that it might help protect the truck in these situations, anyone have any experience with that?

I can't help but think that it would have helped a lot in my situation, but my situation was weird in that it only damaged the roof. I would think normally in a rollover the side would be damaged too.
 
Joined
Sep 28, 2005
Messages
186
I would just cut up the roof and make it a pop top tent conversion roof. Would be great for camping. Here are a couple examples:


I thought about this, and still am thinking about it. I just love the look of a a relatively unmolested 80. I also daily drive this about 50% of the time and wouldnt necessarily want to cruise around with a conversion on top.
 
Joined
Sep 28, 2005
Messages
186
Windrock has changed! There are bamillion spot welds in the gutter and along the tops of both FR and RR glass frames aka under the weatherstripping. Apply a chinesium grade spotweld cutter from Eastwood and just go through the skin to seperate the body panels. It's super thin. Like all body work start really minimally for cuts and go a little deeper as needed. I used a tiny drill bit to put a notch in the center of the OEM spotweld so the spotweld cutter wouldn't walk (as easily). Grind out the brazing on the A and D pillars. It'll be a gold line under the paint that follows the space between the spot welds. That's all that holds the skin on. The roof supports are "glued" but are likely not stuck on anymore. I have done three skins and all of them had separated.
Sawzall the donor skin below the braze mark and gutter and it will fit on the top of a large SUV with some straps and 2x4. I was able to do one by myself, and another with the help of a gimpy friend with one functional arm. It's not that hard. Just based on what I've seen I wouldn't cut in to any of the ABCD pillars. I would recommend only peeling off the skin. The pic below has the top of the windshield frame removed which I don't recommend. It was part of the learning curve and unecessary.
You can 110v mig it back on and use all manner of 3m adhesives to put it back together. Or take it to a shop with a proper spot welder and adhesive dispenser. HTH just a real down and dirty for the roof swap idea. Like most here I'd bet a shop can hammer that out pretty well.View attachment 2371470

Thanks for this write up and for sharing the lessons you learned. I'm hoping that I wont have to resort to doing this myself. I'd like to find a body shop that I trust to take it on. But if it ends up being cost prohibitive I might try myself.
 
Joined
Sep 28, 2005
Messages
186
LKQ In Fayetteville GA. near me had 2-80 series Land Cruisers. If they are still there it might be worth a ride for donor sheet metal.

@slow95z has some parts and he's also in Georgia. I dont think he had an 40th anniversary though. I also have a line on a local lexus roof. I'll check out LKQ as well.
 
Joined
Sep 28, 2005
Messages
186
The fenders really don't stick out more than the tires. However, if you are talking the flares, no need to take them off. Just run a few more trails. They kinda come off on their own. ;)

My front driver's side came off about an hour into this trip, and I nearly ripped another one off. Just seems best to go flare-less if you plan on wheeling near trees.
 

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