Looks great! keep it that way!
Builds HAAANK's 1994 FZJ80 build thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter HAAANK
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Still traveling...flights were delayed etc The truck seems to be pretty solid. Runs smooth and all that.
So the first mod wasn't remote start after all. Pretty sure this will hold up another 200k
So the first mod wasn't remote start after all. Pretty sure this will hold up another 200k
- Thread starter
- #24
- Thread starter
- #25
Spotted a dirt road just before exiting WV and got a chance to work out the lockers.
I noticed when in 4wd low + rear dif locked, RPMs would jump and the truck would lurch a little while shifting. Anyone else experience this?
I noticed when in 4wd low + rear dif locked, RPMs would jump and the truck would lurch a little while shifting. Anyone else experience this?
Nice.
Heat/AC on per chance. In low any increase you really do feel. I doubt it is the rear locker and probably would do the same just in LO if I were to guess.
- Thread starter
- #28
Heat was definitely on and i think it may have done this while rear was both locked and unlocked...I'll try to make a video tomorrow. Currently super sick
- Thread starter
- #29
I went out and made a video a couple days ago, but it seemed fine. I'll keep an eye on it. @UnderDawg @retrofive
- Thread starter
- #30
MAP + DOME LIGHT LED SWAP
So I got my LEDs in the mail and since there's no time like the present, swapped em in.
The install was super basic. The kit I got came with adapters for different socket types. Ended up doing my impreza too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321527067495
The socket on the far left fit the dome lights and the socket on the right fit the map light. The LED is on the far right and is backed with 3M double stick tape.
I wasn't able to get the LED to stick to anything very well (kept falling) so I installed it loose. Upon reflection I think I'll go back in at some point and tape them square with the lens.
You can see the Dome lights use a spring type socket adapter. These are frustrating to line up properly and I burnt the dome fuse before I got in right.
Overall I'm very satisfied with the light the produce.
So I got my LEDs in the mail and since there's no time like the present, swapped em in.
The install was super basic. The kit I got came with adapters for different socket types. Ended up doing my impreza too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321527067495
The socket on the far left fit the dome lights and the socket on the right fit the map light. The LED is on the far right and is backed with 3M double stick tape.
I wasn't able to get the LED to stick to anything very well (kept falling) so I installed it loose. Upon reflection I think I'll go back in at some point and tape them square with the lens.
You can see the Dome lights use a spring type socket adapter. These are frustrating to line up properly and I burnt the dome fuse before I got in right.
Overall I'm very satisfied with the light the produce.
- Thread starter
- #31
DOOR AJAR INDICATOR LIGHT ALWAYS ON / FLICKERING
This morning my wife tried to start the beast and no dice. PO mentioned the door ajar light stays on sometimes and I've noticed it flickering while driving. Also said it will drain the battery. I searched a little for info on the forum and saw two fixes: 1) Use of small sticky backed rubber pieces that help the switch open when door is closed. 2) Tightening the latch mechs on each door, hatch and tailgate.
I went with option 2 as the PO already had stuck the rubber pieces on each of the doors:
All of the hooks were really tight:
All but the front passenger side loops were tight, the culprit below was actually pretty loose:
As soon as i get my hands on a fresh tube of blue loctite I'll hit this with it for extra help.
I haven't yet pulled off the rubber pieces, but will in a couple days once I'm able to vet this fix.
This morning my wife tried to start the beast and no dice. PO mentioned the door ajar light stays on sometimes and I've noticed it flickering while driving. Also said it will drain the battery. I searched a little for info on the forum and saw two fixes: 1) Use of small sticky backed rubber pieces that help the switch open when door is closed. 2) Tightening the latch mechs on each door, hatch and tailgate.
I went with option 2 as the PO already had stuck the rubber pieces on each of the doors:
All of the hooks were really tight:
All but the front passenger side loops were tight, the culprit below was actually pretty loose:
As soon as i get my hands on a fresh tube of blue loctite I'll hit this with it for extra help.
I haven't yet pulled off the rubber pieces, but will in a couple days once I'm able to vet this fix.
- Thread starter
- #33
Picked up new tires, 285/75/16 Duratracs
My personal take is that these are a bit big for an unlifted truck but still an improvement.
I'll be deflaring/running boarding, and lifting once Spring hits!
Before:
After:
My personal take is that these are a bit big for an unlifted truck but still an improvement.
I'll be deflaring/running boarding, and lifting once Spring hits!
Before:
After:
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #34
It's been a while because took a little time to blow off steam cause I just had one of the worst mechanic experiences of my life.
A few days before christmas the head gasket blew in Lewisburg PA, about 5hrs from my home. I contemplated towing it home, but ultimately settled on a local mechanic that came recommended.
They quoted me 1 week and $1200 in labor. I decided to buy parts from from @beno 1100 in parts. $2300 seemed like a solid price all said and done. so I ran with it.
They were super hard to get a hold of throughout the project and 5 weeks later the price jumped from $1200 for labor to $3000 for labor because “the tach didn’t work before, right?” and “our tech broke the knock sensor off”. EFFF!!!!
At this point I’m in a bind, I’m starting a new job across the country in 2 day and my family needs the car while I’m away. So, I make the 5hr drive get to the shop and refuse to give them anymore than $2500. They put up a big fight and didn’t negotiate so perhaps I should have demanded more but I was motivated to get back to my family.
While they were talking in the back, I snake my keys off the counter and sorta wishing I would have just walked out. Anyway, I didn’t, but when I got out to my truck, I jump in the driver seat to find that the plexi glass, known as the combination cover, and the trim just below has been cracked down the middle with a very sloppy and poorly executed super glue or clear epoxy fix has been performed. I walk back in talk to them about it and the worker takes pictures while the owner accuses me of of breaking it…I’m absolutely steaming it and weigh my options.
Ultimately I decided not to fight it then and there. I get in my truck and roll away with my tail behind my legs. Within 20min the CEL is on and when I call the owner he informs me that since I wanted to pick up my truck that day they didn’t fix the sensor after all. G R E A T ! They sure were happy to charge me though!
About an hour later I stop for gas, and notice a ding in the tailgate like someone had a tool or part on the bumper and let it down…if that weren’t enough I noticed the little piece of clear plastic on the turn signal is also missing. All I can think is they dropped it on the floor or kicked it or something…so frustrating.
I call them and say I’m considering taking legal action. They agree to buy a used cover and trim piece but refuse to replace anything…
So the 1 week $2300 project has now become a 5 week $3600 project with a bonus CEL, broken combination cover, broken dash trim, broken turn signal lense and knock sensor…
The joy never ends…
On the plus side, it does run a lot better.
Next up is a knuckle rebuild, wheel bearing swap, and rotor upgrade.
Thanks for letting me vent. Someone tell me $3600 for an HG job is a good price...
A few days before christmas the head gasket blew in Lewisburg PA, about 5hrs from my home. I contemplated towing it home, but ultimately settled on a local mechanic that came recommended.
They quoted me 1 week and $1200 in labor. I decided to buy parts from from @beno 1100 in parts. $2300 seemed like a solid price all said and done. so I ran with it.
They were super hard to get a hold of throughout the project and 5 weeks later the price jumped from $1200 for labor to $3000 for labor because “the tach didn’t work before, right?” and “our tech broke the knock sensor off”. EFFF!!!!
At this point I’m in a bind, I’m starting a new job across the country in 2 day and my family needs the car while I’m away. So, I make the 5hr drive get to the shop and refuse to give them anymore than $2500. They put up a big fight and didn’t negotiate so perhaps I should have demanded more but I was motivated to get back to my family.
While they were talking in the back, I snake my keys off the counter and sorta wishing I would have just walked out. Anyway, I didn’t, but when I got out to my truck, I jump in the driver seat to find that the plexi glass, known as the combination cover, and the trim just below has been cracked down the middle with a very sloppy and poorly executed super glue or clear epoxy fix has been performed. I walk back in talk to them about it and the worker takes pictures while the owner accuses me of of breaking it…I’m absolutely steaming it and weigh my options.
Ultimately I decided not to fight it then and there. I get in my truck and roll away with my tail behind my legs. Within 20min the CEL is on and when I call the owner he informs me that since I wanted to pick up my truck that day they didn’t fix the sensor after all. G R E A T ! They sure were happy to charge me though!
About an hour later I stop for gas, and notice a ding in the tailgate like someone had a tool or part on the bumper and let it down…if that weren’t enough I noticed the little piece of clear plastic on the turn signal is also missing. All I can think is they dropped it on the floor or kicked it or something…so frustrating.
I call them and say I’m considering taking legal action. They agree to buy a used cover and trim piece but refuse to replace anything…
So the 1 week $2300 project has now become a 5 week $3600 project with a bonus CEL, broken combination cover, broken dash trim, broken turn signal lense and knock sensor…
The joy never ends…
On the plus side, it does run a lot better.
Next up is a knuckle rebuild, wheel bearing swap, and rotor upgrade.
Thanks for letting me vent. Someone tell me $3600 for an HG job is a good price...
What shop was it? I know a few people in Lewisburg, PA. I used to live a few towns over.
- Thread starter
- #36
I really should have asked here on the board for recommendations! For now, I'll PM you the shop's name.
That is terrible! They figure you were not local so they could sink their teeth in. Idiots!
I might have a combi-meter cover if you want it.
I bought a meter to play around with the gauges a little, so I don't really need the cover.
PM me if you want.
I bought a meter to play around with the gauges a little, so I don't really need the cover.
PM me if you want.
- Thread starter
- #39
THANKS! PM SENT!
