Great documentary on the rebuilding of the tranny, things to look out for, what to do and not do and fabricated tool tips.
I have an H55. In the next couple years I would like to rebuild it. SOR is noting two different rebuild kits based on years for the transmission. How do you tell the year of your transmission just by the markings on the housing?
Great documentary on the rebuilding of the tranny, things to look out for, what to do and not do and fabricated tool tips. I have an H55. In the next couple years I would like to rebuild it. SOR is noting two different rebuild kits based on years for the transmission. How do you tell the year of your transmission just by the markings on the housing?
I spend so much time on ih8mud that I'm getting influenced too much by it.
The other day, I filled out a "Hazard Report" at work and stuffed up the metric measurement I used in it. (I said 30 metres when 15 would have been a more accurate assessment of the distance.)
And I blame ih8mud for this. It's got me back into being more familiar with the old imperial measurement system that this country moved away from quite a few decades ago.
So my language is probably now suffering international influence too...
(I like to blame others rather than take personal responsibility, as you can see VV.)
Edit. The only way I know of to work out the year/model of the tranny is to base it on the year/model of the vehicle it was originally fitted to.
But I know what you guys want to know ... You want someone to list easily identifiable features (such as the removal of the side inspection cover) with corresponding timelines that will help someone identify a gearboxe's build period when it's original source-vehicle's details are unknown... (I'm not part of the "expert panel" so I can't answer that.)
(But as is clear from this thread, BOTH the repair instructions and the repair kit need to suit the gearboxes built date.)
If you have been paying attention, China landed an unmanned vehicle on the moon this week, so chances are they can make a decent bearing. Regrettably, their products are getting more competitive in quality while remaining price competitive.
China also said last week they aren't going to buy debt in the future from the US (or anyone else). Kiss not only price competition goodbye but also your gvt pension, the almighty dollar, and your inability to speak Chinese.
Buttoning the tranny up today. What's the trick to fit the top onto the case so that it shifts?
Chased the threads and the bolts after wire wheeling the bolts to clean them up.
Put the gasket on the top of the case, gasket seal on the bottom layer so I could fit the top and case cover assy a few times properly before sealing it.
Gasket in place
Case Cover Assy
Good thing - I can't get it to fit. I got lucky the first time, but didn't know what I was doing.
I know it's supposed to be in neutral on the top/gearshift but how are the gears/clutch hub to be arranged?
Both the top cover and all the gears need to be in neutral. Put a dab of wheel bearing grease on the reverse gear shaft so it stays put while you drop the cover on.
Both the top cover and all the gears need to be in neutral. Put a dab of wheel bearing grease on the reverse gear shaft so it stays put while you drop the cover on.
The synchronized gears have a detent in N which makes it easy to be sure they are in the middle position. For reverse, you can look and see that the teeth are not meshed. You will know it is in N when you can spin the input and output shafts independently.
Something is wrong. I can't get the shifter to shift now, out of or in the case. I wish I understood the mechanics of the shifting better.
The end of the gear shaft floats freely between the 3 fork shafts - 1-2 gear, 3-4 gear, and the reverse shaft. I can visually see she gear shift end engage the slots in each of the 3 fork shafts.
With the cover off, I cannot manually move any of the shafts backwards or forwards except the reverse shaft just a bit. Nor can I move them with the gear shaft. This doesn't surprise me too much but I thought I could move it before.
I also cannot move the gear shift once I put the cover on. I have tried to line up both cover and gears so they are in neutral.
First time I did it - no problem, shifted thru all gears, reverse, shafts turned freely.
Perhaps I'm still not putting something in neutral?
Can you shift into all gears with just the top cover when it is off? It looks like the R fork is too close to the 1-2 fork so that the R fork cannot move with the 1-2 fork in N. Is the 1-2 fork flipped 180 degrees on the shaft?
The mechanics of shifting are simple: The lockout pins only allow one shaft to move when the other two shafts are in N. They can all be in N but after that only one shaft at a time can slide.
Take a picture from the shift tower side of the cover showing where the shifter cane nose fits in. Focus on the slots at the bottom on the shift rods.
This is why I always tell people not to fool with the top cover.
Can you hold the output shaft and spin the input freely and vice versa? If so the gearbox is in neutral. With the gearbox in neutral you should be able to hold the cover over it and observe the forks lining up as you lower it. As Mr. Pinhead stated the other thing to watch will be the orientation of the reverse fork. You should be able to lower it in place and slip a couple of bolts in it and check the operation.
The three shifter rails should form a rectangle with the reverse rail having a spring leaded pin.
I usually leave shifter out of the cover until it is installed, that way you can see down the shifter hole and see the rectangle formed by the three shifter rail blocks.
See the picture from the top with shifter tower removed.You don't need to remove it to see the rectangular slot formed by the three rail blocks.
The picture from the bottom shows the the three shifter forks in neutral.
I suggest you sit down and think your way through what is happening when you move the shifter rails and what it is doing in the box.
1. Gearbox isn't going easily into neutral. Not sure why. At least the shafts won't turn when both synchros are in neutral. I probably effed something up.
2. Cover isn't in neutral. I'll need to fiddle with it - it's catching on something. It's also very cold today, so everything's a bit stiff.
3. I'm sure the reverse fork is right but when lying on its side, the large fork flops over past the reverse fork.
I'll warm it up tomorrow and fiddle with it more. The photos help.
