H42 Transmission, Tcase, eBrake Rebuild in a '76 FJ40`

[Vae Victus]

Ok, got it. I knew it wasn't that hard.

 

[Pin_Head]

Semper victorius

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Congrats! So what was the issue preventing everything from lining up? It looks great.

 

[Vae Victus]

Congrats! So what was the issue preventing everything from lining up? It looks great.

Until I knew how to line up the three shafts for neutral on the cover, and where neutral was on the gears, I was putting it together locked up. The photo of the 3 shaft keys was the "key" that made me say aha! Just the little things - but it's all little things.

 

[Vae Victus]

Semper victorius

Thanks to you fine tranny veterans!

 

[lostmarbles]

Well.............

Come on VV....

Throw it in and go for a burn..

For heavens sake...

I'm waiting for a report on how well it shifts, how quiet it is, etc

 

[adistler1]

Awesome!

 

[Vae Victus]

Well.............

Come on VV....

Throw it in and go for a burn..

For heavens sake...

I'm waiting for a report on how well it shifts, how quiet it is, etc

Welllll, small problem:

 

[Weber Sarge]

Your going to be one bundles of nerves the first time you ever drive that thing given the depth of rebuilding everything , lol ....
Sarge

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Your going to be one bundles of nerves the first time you ever drive that thing given the depth of rebuilding everything , lol ....
Sarge

Hopefully this time it doesn't catch fire That transmission seriously looks amazing. Your thread makes me want to tear my truck apart. Someday...

 

[kiwidog]

Another H42 for the OR

Hi Vae,

Here another H42 than needs a freshen up. (are you volunteering?)This one was overhauled in 1988 and has been in continuous hard service ever since. The output shaft was repaired with welding and regrinding the splines in with a small off hand grinder. i am very interested to see how well it held up. Will post some photos when the transfer case is off the trans.
Here's a picture of the release bearing with back yard grease job and the cover tack welded on after it was taken apart. This was back in the day when I didn't think FJ40's would ever be desirable like they are now. It worked for 26 years without missing a beat and no unnecessary noises. Mr T really did build them to be repaired in imaginative ways.
Your Chinese bearing will still be going strong long after you are pushing -up daisies.

Good job on finishing the H42.

Thanks jb

 

[Vae Victus]

Hi Vae,

Here another H42 than needs a freshen up. (are you volunteering?)This one was overhauled in 1988 and has been in continuous hard service ever since. The output shaft was repaired with welding and regrinding the splines in with a small off hand grinder. i am very interested to see how well it held up. Will post some photos when the transfer case is off the trans.
Here's a picture of the release bearing with back yard grease job and the cover tack welded on after it was taken apart. This was back in the day when I didn't think FJ40's would ever be desirable like they are now. It worked for 26 years without missing a beat and no unnecessary noises. Mr T really did build them to be repaired in imaginative ways.
Your Chinese bearing will still be going strong long after you are pushing -up daisies.

Good job on finishing the H42.

Thanks jb

That's some pretty fine "backyard" work. Where's the release bearing go?

You should publish the specs on your tranny jig. I'll bet some folks would love to build one. (I know I hope I never have to again).

VV

 

[Vae Victus]

Still must put on the front and rear bearing retainers, get the transfer case and two remaining gears put back on.

Before finishing the t-case, must determine it I want to put in a different speedo gear. I was going to change to a different toothed gear to allow for the 33" tires to keep the Speedo accurate. But then I decided to change the diff gearing to 3.70, and now I'm back to scratching my head as to how to accurately calculate the speedo gearing.

 

[Vae Victus]

Put the front bearing retainer on. Where do the long bolts go?

 

[kiwidog]

Bolts

Hi Vae,

The shorter bolts may be from the shifter tower. There are different lengths there.
As far as I know the 7 front retainer bolts are all the same length 25mm long
The shift tower has 2 bolts 25mm long and 4 bolts 20mm long all the bolts are marked with a 6 on the head.

Don't like the use of RTV on the gaskets. In my opinion it is not needed and just messes up and other wise clean job. You could take a blade and carefully peel it off when it has set. Haven't had a H42 and transfer case leak when that are put together with new gaskets. I have use RTV sparingly on old gaskets. If you get a lot of squeeze out you are putting too much on. There are some bolts you need a little thread sealant on because they are open through the case rather than blind holes.
Front retainer and the transfer case case long bolts especially.

When you come to fill it with 80-90 oil you can pour it through the shift tower and watch the fill plug for a level, much easier than using the fill hole.

I bet you are glad to be finished that part. How are the plans for your shop coming along?

Thanks jb

 

[Vae Victus]

Hi Vae,

The shorter bolts may be from the shifter tower. There are different lengths there.
As far as I know the 7 front retainer bolts are all the same length 25mm long
The shift tower has 2 bolts 25mm long and 4 bolts 20mm long all the bolts are marked with a 6 on the head.

Don't like the use of RTV on the gaskets. In my opinion it is not needed and just messes up and other wise clean job. You could take a blade and carefully peel it off when it has set. Haven't had a H42 and transfer case leak when that are put together with new gaskets. I have use RTV sparingly on old gaskets. If you get a lot of squeeze out you are putting too much on. There are some bolts you need a little thread sealant on because they are open through the case rather than blind holes.
Front retainer and the transfer case case long bolts especially.

When you come to fill it with 80-90 oil you can pour it through the shift tower and watch the fill plug for a level, much easier than using the fill hole.

I bet you are glad to be finished that part. How are the plans for your shop coming along?

Thanks jb

JB,

Appreciate the input on the gaskets. I did read in the FSM to put a thin layer on the gaskets, and from what I've read, it won't hurt on non-precision seals to add it. Newbie overkill maybe.

I kept it very thin, spreading it with my finger so that I just get a little to squeeze out, but no more than a 1/16" bead maybe. Prior rebuild had about 1/8" to 1/4" of goop in some of the seals, so I'm hoping to not repeat that. I'll watch it from now on and make sure it is really thin.

I will ensure I get sealant on the threads of the bolts that are into the case. Use a Blue threadlock, or RTV?

Bolt Length: I need to review my teardown photos. I'm sure those are the same bolts I removed. Perhaps the prior rebuild put the wrong ones in. As long as the bolts are not impeding a gear, I guess they are ok.

Filling thru the top: great tip.

Shop Plans: Still a few months out. Must finish prior construction project (pool) which is nearing the end. Looks like April to finish.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Yes, the front bolts are all the same length. The tower bolts and frt cover bolts are mixed up. Might also be some of the bolts for the T-case PTO sidecover.

 

[tubalubb]

Vae I have photos somewhere, I'll look and put them on here. I think mine were different sizes too. One thing that vexed me on reassembly was finding one bolt I was sure went with the others but it was just a little bit longer, these went with the brackets and it wasn't readily apparent. I was also challenged by sending out my bolts to be coated and then figuring out what went where later! Never fear though, I've been shifting for five months daily now thanks to this forum and some blood sweat and tears. I did use gasket sealant and loctite on mine.
Matt

 

[sggoat]

Just curious, but wouldn't tack welding create small pits in the bearing balls/race surface?

I've rebuilt a few H41/2s.

The best method for removing bearings I have found is...


Lay a piece of tube steel across the bearings and tack weld the bar to the bearings. After taping shafts to make sure no slag sticks to them.

Make sure the tube sticks further out past the side of the transmission so you can tap it with a hammer. You can have all of the bearings off with in a few minutes. The heck with pullers in this case, I've had them exploded on me.

Good luck,
-Al

 

[FJ40Jim]

The bearings are discarded after removal.