H42 Transmission, Tcase, eBrake Rebuild in a '76 FJ40`

[Vae Victus]

Gotta cheer on Auburn now in the Iron Bowl. War Eagle!

 

[kiwidog]

H42

Hi Vae,

Great to hear that you are making progress, I feel for you having to pull the bearings and start over. It will be easier the next time you install everything.

Here's a picture of a support I built for the case so the parts are easier to assemble. It makes hanging the transfer case off the back easier and it is not rolling around on the bench. Haven't used it to install the complete assembly back in the 40 but it will probably work on the floor jack with an adapter bracket. Probably have to raise the whole vehicle to get enough space to roll it underneath the chassis. It looks rather high, that's because of the transfer case hanging below the transmission centre line. Built from pieces out of the scrap bin. It may fit the H55 with a few modes?

Lostmarbles, sometimes conventional wisdom is wrong/flawed and we have move on.

Thanks jb

 

[lostmarbles]

..And yes, I was doing it the way the 77 and 80 FSMs show it, which is right side up. Turning it over makes sense. ..

I think the 80 FSM actually shows turning it upside down in the pics (but not the wording).

And I suspect they started suggesting "upside down" after the side-access hole was
eliminated from the casing (making it impossible to see properly in there)



PS. Cool eagles!

...Lostmarbles, sometimes conventional wisdom is wrong/flawed and we have move on.

Thanks jb

.. Never!!!

 

[Vae Victus]

Hi Vae, ... Here's a picture of a support I built for the case so the parts are easier to assemble. It makes hanging the transfer case off the back easier and it is not rolling around on the bench. ...Thanks jb

Clearly we are dealing with a professional here guys. Very nice. Love the paint job too.

 

[Vae Victus]

Pulled all the bearings again and got the counter shaft out. Any suggestions on getting this race off the shaft now that I've broken off the lip that the puller grabs?

How tight is that race on there? Could I tap it off slowly with a drift, heat it to expand it?

Weld some nuts on the edge to get a bearing puller to grab? This sounds like a good option.

Too tired to try anything tonight.




Damaged Race

FSM shows the race with a gap between the rear face of the gear and the front face of the race. I have no gap, as I drove the two together.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Support the offending piece on a hard piece of heavy steel , smack it hard with a good quality hardened chisel - it should shatter it off . Make sure you protect yourself , that stuff hurts at high velocity .
Otherwise, grind a deep groove into it , then smack the groove to break it .
Sarge

 

[Pin_Head]

Grind a couple of slots into the race and use your gear puller.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Grind a deep groove into it , then smack the groove to break it.

Grind a couple of slots into the race and use your gear puller.

I've used either of the above techniques w/ 100% effectiveness. No need for welding stuff to the race.

 

[Vae Victus]

Sweet! Thanks guys. KISS Keep it Simple Stupid.

 

[Pin_Head]

You don't want to weld on an inner race because the steel shrinks upon cooling above the austenitic phase transition temperature (red hot). That would make the race tighter. Since bearing races are high carbon steel, just air cooling will make them very brittle, so it may crack on its own during cooling or after you smack it with a hammer.

 

[Vae Victus]

Removing the race by cutting slots was easy.

 

[Vae Victus]

Leave a gap between the new race, or snug it up to the gear? I have no reference. (Using old race to seat new one). It wants to stay right where it is.

 

[kiwidog]

Inner race

Hi Vae,

Looks correct. There is a shoulder behind first gear for the race to seat on.
Rather than use the old race to push it on, take a sold punch, a piece of flat bar-mild steel or a pin punch. (The mild steel is softer than the pin punch usually so it less likely to chip the race, also the flat bar has more surface area on the race compared to a round pin punch) When you hit the end of the race, you should hear a solid thunk if its home and a more dead sound if it not. The punch tends to bounce when it home as well.

Thanks jb

 

[Vae Victus]

Hi Vae,

Looks correct. There is a shoulder behind first gear for the race to seat on.
Rather than use the old race to push it on, take a sold punch, a piece of flat bar-mild steel or a pin punch. (The mild steel is softer than the pin punch usually so it less likely to chip the race, also the flat bar has more surface area on the race compared to a round pin punch) When you hit the end of the race, you should hear a solid thunk if its home and a more dead sound if it not. The punch tends to bounce when it home as well.

Thanks jb

Kiwi,
So the photo with the broken lip shows that the race was seated all the way on the gear (which may have been the cause for the failure of the lip).



The second photo shows the race seated down as far as it wants to go without forcing it (light hammer blows on the old race to push it down to the shoulder you refer to).



Just being clear - so you believe that I have seated it as far down as it should go, correct?

 

[FJ40Jim]

Both pictures show the race seated against the shoulder of the gear.
Alle ist gut.

 

[Vae Victus]

Both pictures show the race seated against the shoulder of the gear.
Alle ist gut.

Actually, first one has no gap. Can't fit a piece if paper between the race and the gear.

Second has an 1/8th or a 1/16th gap.

 

[Pin_Head]

Alles ist gut.

Stimmt, aber noch nicht fertig.

 

[Vae Victus]

Stimmt, aber noch nicht fertig.

ok, aber welche lücke ist richtig?

 

[Pin_Head]

ok, aber welche lücke ist richtig?

Als der Snap ring anziehen konte alles ist gut, sonst weiter gehen.

 

[Vae Victus]

Als der Snap ring anziehen konte alles ist gut, sonst weiter gehen.

Ok, I am outed. I don't really know German. This is how Google translates this: "Could attract as the snap ring everything is okay, proceed otherwise."

"Could attract as the snap ring"?

Sorry, I just don't want to break something else. Want to be sure I get the spacing right.