H42 Transmission, Tcase, eBrake Rebuild in a '76 FJ40`

Vae Victus

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I will be documenting my H42 tranny rebuild here for the good of the masses since I cannot seem to find a complete one anywhere.

Telling an H41 and H42 apart: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/652966-can-you-tell-h42-h41-visually.html

I will do my best to get this right, and with the help of the Mud community, I'm sure we will get close.

Caveat emptor: I am not a mechanic. I did however sleep in a Holiday Inn Express last night (yea, that's about as qualified as I am to do this).

I am using the FSM for a 1975 FJ40, and one from the 1980 FJ40 (Chassis and Body) from TrollHole's thread, (Tip: the '80 manual is more descriptive and asker to understand than the '75 manual where it relates to the 4 speed transmission - get both) as well as the notoriously ill informed Haynes manual. I will also be using sheer will and determination to get this done.

TrollHole's FSM Free Download thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/610994-40-50-60-80-series-fsm-hell-price.html

I purchased my rebuild kit from TPI4x4.com. It came with a full set of blue paper gaskets, Koyo bearings, seals, needle bearings, crush washers. I'll detail the kit here in the near future.

I like to bag and tag all pars in zip lock bags, with the part name written in sharpie on the bag.

Step 1: Removal of the Transmission
This is widely covered in other places, therefore I'm not going deep here. Basically, you must remove the drive shafts, and remove the seat and tranny hump from inside, and several other parts to get the transmission and transfer case out. Can be done as a single unit or together. See my thread (in sig line) if you need details on this. It points to my sources of how I figured this out.

Step 2: Separation of Tranny and Tcase
Again, covered elsewhere. See my thread for how I did it.

Here is the transmission pre-tear down



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H42 Transmission - Hump Side



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H42 Transmission - No Cover Plate

Note the absence of the "Power Take Off" Cover present in older H42 models. My transmission must have been replaced at some point with a newer model that does not have this plate. Most documentation shows this plate and suggests your remove it as one of the first steps in the teardown. If you have it, take it off as it may make viewing and accessing the inside easier. Plus, you need to replace the gasket.



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Front, "Input" side from Clutch/Engine



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Back - "Output" side to Transfer Case


Step 3: Shift lever removal
I had trouble with this. I did not have or make a tool to do this task, so I tried a vice grip to push down on the shift lever and to turn it clockwise. Did not work. This may come back to bite me, but I just removed the whole unit as one by removing the cover plate.

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Shift Cover Plate Removed


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Shift Lever and Cover Plate


Step 4: Top Cover Plate Removal
Simply removed the bolts and tapped the cover to loosen it with a dead blow hammer. Pried it off the two locator pins that sit at the 11 oclock and 5 oclock positions on the case where the cover fits on. At first I thought these were sheared bolts, but looking and seeing that they were chamfered on the ends, I figured they were supposed to be there.

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Top Cover Plate Removed - Locating Pins shown

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Locating pins detail
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Vae Victus

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Step 5: Rear Bearing Retainer Removal

Remove the two 17mm bolts at the bottom of the case and tap the cover loose. The cover comes right off.


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Rear Bearing Retainer cover before

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During removal (13YO son helping)

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... and after removal. Note Counter shaft output bearing below the Output shaft.

There is a spacer that needs to be bagged and tagged on the output shaft. It goes grooved side toward the case, smooth side out.

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Smooth side out

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Grooved side toward case


Step 6: Front Bearing Retainer Removal
Remove the 12mm bolts holding on the front retainer. 7 in total. Some are shorter. Take note of which are. I didn't, so will have to pay attention when reinstalling.

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Front Retainer Before

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And after removal, showing Input Shaft, and cover. Note that the Counter shaft is the lower shaft in the photos above.

Cover comes off with a couple of taps depending on amount of gasket sealant present.

Step 7-A: Prepping for Input Shaft Removal
Remove the heavy retaining ring from the input shaft bearing (top bearing on Input shaft side). I did this with a light duty snap ring tool to get it started, and then used 2-3 flat headed screwdrivers to grab pry the ring out of the groove. I used a hammer and fine bladed screwdriver to lightly drive the ring out of the slot starting on one side and working my way around. Once you get about half way you need to get the end of the ring that you started with to slide off the shaft as shown in the photo below to relieve the pressure and not warp the ring. You may have to pry it over the edge with a screwdriver.

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Relieving Tension on Retaining Clip

Once you have done that, it is relatively easy to tap it the rest of the way out of the retaining slot.
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Tapping out

Once removed, you must remove the larger diameter snap ring. Same process as before, but easier since a much thinner ring.

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Bearing Retainer Ring Removal

Now that the input shaft retaining rings are removed, drive the front bearing out. If you are replacing it, drive it with a steel punch if you want. If keeping, get a thinner brass drift to punch it out so you don't damage it. Drive the outer race from the inside of the case. You need a pretty thin and long punch to reach the bearing.

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Drive front bearing out.

I hit it pretty hard from the 12, 9. And 3 o'clock positions to get it out. Alternated between them to not bind the bearing.

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Bearing out

Once out, I was able to tap and pry the bearing lightly with a small pry bar off the nut shaft.

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Bearing removed from the shaft.
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Living in the Past

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How bad is the wear on the tailshaft, do you plan on replacing it? If I was going to all the work of tearing down a four speed I won't rebuild it with a worn shaft. Back in 94 I installed a four speed into my 68 that a worn shaft. I would never do it again.
 

Vae Victus

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How bad is the wear on the tailshaft, do you plan on replacing it? If I was going to all the work of tearing down a four speed I won't rebuild it with a worn shaft. Back in 94 I installed a four speed into my 68 that a worn shaft. I would never do it again.
The output shaft has a very small nick in it, (EDIT->) and has wear where the transfer gear meets it. This wear is about 0.23 mm deep on the side of the groove of the shaft as this better photo shows.

See what you think about the wear on the shaft. Hmmm, After cleaning up the shaft, you can see the wear better.

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0.23 mm deep groove and small nick shown
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spotcruiser

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I agree. The top photo in post #2 shows the wear, which isn't as bad as some I've seen.

How bad is the wear on the tailshaft, do you plan on replacing it? If I was going to all the work of tearing down a four speed I won't rebuild it with a worn shaft. Back in 94 I installed a four speed into my 68 that a worn shaft. I would never do it again.
 
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65swb45

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I agree. The top photo in post #2 shows the wear, which isn't as bad as some I've seen.
Makes three of us. Take the input gear of the t-case and test IT for play on both a virgin section of tailshaft, as well as the worn section by temporarily reinstalling the spacer sleeve.

The wear is often cumulative.:hmm:

Best

Mark A.
 

Vae Victus

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Makes three of us. Take the input gear of the t-case and test IT for play on both a virgin section of tailshaft, as well as the worn section by temporarily reinstalling the spacer sleeve.

The wear is often cumulative.:hmm:

Best

Mark A.
So all 3 of you are saying that it isn't too bad, or is? Not sure I'm following.
 
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Pin_Head

 
 
 
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It has been a long time since I have been into an H42, but my recollection is that you have to remove the bearings on the counter shaft first and drop the cluster gear to get the input shaft and gear out. Once out, you can easily press off the bearing. I remember that getting the bearing off the output shaft was a real challenge.
 

Vae Victus

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Step 7-B: Input Shaft Removal, by removal of Counter Shaft Bearings


PinHead is correct. To get the input shaft off, we must drop the counter shaft out of the way. I had to ask Mud about that because nothing I rad made that clear. The FSM is very succinct but it does give you the order. Haynes doesn't tell you to remove the counter shaft first, and. Was confused by that.

Remove the retaining clip from the output side of the counter shaft bearing first. Same deal, I used a regular snap ring tool to get the clip stretched to a bit, and stuck a screwdriver in it. I used a light hammer to tap the screwdriver around and get the clip off.

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Counter Gear Output Bearing Clip Removal

Now you need to take off the two retaining clips from the Input side of the counter shaft bearing. Take them off in the same fashion. If you are not bagging and tagging these things, time to start. Hate to get them confused, it'll just frustrate you later.

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Counter Shaft Input Bearing Small Clip Removal


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Counter Shaft Input Bearing Small Clip Removal

After these are removed, you can begin to attempt to get the bearings out. Normal bearing puller doesn't fit. Haynes suggests using two pry bars or flat screw drivers to wiggle them out. I ran out of time today, but at first glance, looks like a pain.
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Living in the Past

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So all 3 of you are saying that it isn't too bad, or is? Not sure I'm following.
Don't think one said they thought it was fine. Did you do what Mark A. Suggested? He was saying the input gear spline could be worn just as much doubling the wear. When ever the cruiser is moving there in force one way or the other. While the gas is applied to the engine the transmission is driving the gear. But your foot off the gas the gear is now driving the shaft. It is this back and forth that wear down the shaft and gear. The more wear the faster it wears. It is like hitting something with a hammer. The further away the hammer is the more force is generated on your stroke. My 76 transmission shaft is worn worse than yours and hasn't failed. But I also am not rebuilding it. Are you rebuilding it because it worn out and noisey or because you want a perfect running cruiser? If it's worn and you want it shift smooth and a little noise won't bother you than leave it. Long time before that would give you any trouble. Currently my 68 needs a clutch. When I get around to replacing it another transmission will go in. The current one works and shifts fine. It just bothers me hearding the slap noise everytime my foot is on and off the gas. But I have a OCD and knowing it's there bothers me.
 

spotcruiser

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The wear shown on your output shaft is not too bad and I'd use it. As Mark mentioned, look at the transfer input gear also. I have seen them where the splines on the output shaft and transfer input gear are both worn to sharp points and ready to fail.

So all 3 of you are saying that it isn't too bad, or is? Not sure I'm following.
 

Pin_Head

 
 
 
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The FSM shows using several SSTs to pull the bearings. I "walked" the bearings off the counter shaft by putting increasingly thicker shims under the outer snap ring and driving the shaft back toward the case. It was slow but it worked fine. The main output shaft bearing I finally got with a 10 pound sledge hammer using an aluminum bar to protect the threaded end of the shaft. After about 5 solid hits, the bearing finally moved. A 20 ton hydraulic press didn't cut it. My plan C was to cut the inner race with a carbide burr in a die grinder.
.
 

Vae Victus

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Don't think one said they thought it was fine. Did you do what Mark A. Suggested? He was saying the input gear spline could be worn just as much doubling the wear. When ever the cruiser is moving there in force one way or the other. While the gas is applied to the engine the transmission is driving the gear. But your foot off the gas the gear is now driving the shaft. It is this back and forth that wear down the shaft and gear. The more wear the faster it wears. It is like hitting something with a hammer. The further away the hammer is the more force is generated on your stroke. My 76 transmission shaft is worn worse than yours and hasn't failed. But I also am not rebuilding it. Are you rebuilding it because it worn out and noisey or because you want a perfect running cruiser? If it's worn and you want it shift smooth and a little noise won't bother you than leave it. Long time before that would give you any trouble. Currently my 68 needs a clutch. When I get around to replacing it another transmission will go in. The current one works and shifts fine. It just bothers me hearding the slap noise everytime my foot is on and off the gas. But I have a OCD and knowing it's there bothers me.
The wear shown on your output shaft is not too bad and I'd use it. As Mark mentioned, look at the transfer input gear also. I have seen them where the splines on the output shaft and transfer input gear are both worn to sharp points and ready to fail.
Thanks guys - yes, I'll check the input gear spline. Haven't done that yet.

I'm rebuilding to have a "perfect" cruiser. While I'm doing brain surgery, I'm taking out any little growths I see along the way so I don't have to open her up again for a little seal or bearing later on. I'd much rather spend the $ now on replacing a bearing that may be ok, vs taking the time to take it out of service in the future once it is running.

The real question is, how hard is it to find a new output shaft? I'll bet I'm spending 2x the cost of a used tranny to rebuild this one if I end up with a $400 shaft. :doh:

I do see that the shafts are discontinued. Who makes replacements?
 

Vae Victus

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The FSM shows using several SSTs to pull the bearings. I "walked" the bearings off the counter shaft by putting increasingly thicker shims under the outer snap ring and driving the shaft back toward the case. It was slow but it worked fine. The main output shaft bearing I finally got with a 10 pound sledge hammer using an aluminum bar to protect the threaded end of the shaft. After about 5 solid hits, the bearing finally moved. A 20 ton hydraulic press didn't cut it. My plan C was to cut the inner race with a carbide burr in a die grinder.
.
:eek: And to think I started off trying to pry it with a small Klein screwdriver. I have a puller, but the ends are too thick to fit into the removal slots in the case. Thought about modifying it (grinding the claws down) to fit.
 

spotcruiser

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You can get the shaft and gear from SOR, but you'll pay a price (about $400 for the shaft and $300 for the gear). Not many people rebuild these transmissions, so the parts are expensive.
 

Living in the Past

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I think you can get them from Georg aka Orange45??
Mine also PM LCWizard. I know he has some contacts as well as Kurt in UT.

You can get the shaft and gear from SOR, but you'll pay a price (about $400 for the shaft and $300 for the gear). Not many people rebuild these transmissions, so the parts are expensive.

I know in the US it is not very common to rebuild these but not sure if that is true world wide. Maybe get lucky and find there is a demand in other markets which may mean there are available at better price. $400 would be out of the question for me. But $300 for a input gear is too. I picked up a couple of those used in a junkyard for far less. When I was looking for a four speed to put in my 68 there were hard to find and bought the only one I could find that had the worn shaft. Two years later I picked up a couple H42s that the tailshafts were in great shape. When you don't need them is when they become available.
 

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I've rebuilt a few H41/2s.

The best method for removing bearings I have found is...


Lay a piece of tube steel across the bearings and tack weld the bar to the bearings. After taping shafts to make sure no slag sticks to them.

Make sure the tube sticks further out past the side of the transmission so you can tap it with a hammer. You can have all of the bearings off with in a few minutes. The heck with pullers in this case, I've had them exploded on me.

Good luck,
-Al :beer:
 
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