H151F swap parts list? (4 Viewers)

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Plus more parts on the v8 swap and a 100 bucks here 100 bucks there.
Torfab conversion kit is $2630 and I'll do the wiring myself (I'm weird, I enjoy that kind of stuff). If I want that kind of power with a 1FZ-FE and manual, it's just too expensive for what you're getting IMO. But that's just my opinion. I know people like to stick to oem stuff.
 
Torfab conversion kit is $2630 and I'll do the wiring myself (I'm weird, I enjoy that kind of stuff). If I want that kind of power with a 1FZ-FE and manual, it's just too expensive for what you're getting IMO. But that's just my opinion. I know people like to stick to oem stuff.
Good points
 
Plus more parts on the v8 swap and a 100 bucks here 100 bucks there.
More like plus
$2600 adapter kit
$500-3000 standalone harness with sensors and vat/ initial tune.
$1200 accessory drive with PS pump and vacuum delete.
$1200 cam kit so the gov motors POS doesn't explode from the EPA "features".
And another $1000 tuning and 20 hours back and forth with a tuner getting that to work right with the cam.
Probably throw in another grand for knick knacks.
And and fingers crossed you got a good tranny - they're great (those class action lawsuit issues are super rare).

But yeah I actually want one too 🤣


All that said- 5-6k for a known entity that actually works without all BS from Mr T- kinda sounds like a bargain.
 
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Not sure if this is the right thread to add this in, but has anyone done the swap of a brand new (2022) H152F into a 80 series?

Specifically the issue I am facing is the 5th gear clutch hub on the back of the mainshaft hasn't been drilled and tapped (like it is in all H150/H151 and at least the earlier H152 gearboxes).

This is making it really difficult to remove. I have tried pulling the main gear set (as i think it pushes up against the hub), but trying really hard not to damage the teeth on the gearset). Next option I guess is heat, but wondering if anyone has successfully drilled and tapped the hub in place?

View attachment 3409735
i had to swap the input shaft on my 100 series h151f with a 1fz inputshaft as it came setup for a 2uz. 5th gear looks identical to yours with no threaded holes. i used a simple 3 jaw outside gear puller from harbor freight. the transmission was brand new and did not require a lot of power to pull the gear off, no heat either. I have pulled several toyota manual transmissions apart and compared to anything else i have worked on i found they required less force to pull gears off shafts.
20211002_172916.jpg
20211003_093418.jpg
 
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f***ing toyota and their cost cutting bulls***...

Also, @SNLC bragging about your achievements while not bothering to answer the question isn't particularly helpful nor in the spirit of this forum.



No idea what you are doing. Are you upgrading 5th in an H151?

Cheers
 
I was planning to put an H151 in the 1994 80 I just picked, but PO lied about HG and now I've got the head off, new radiator incoming, all new timing stuff, etc etc etc. And I'm 5-6k deep in baselining the rig. :bang:

HOPEFULLY it will be amazing after this a few parts from OP. Since this is most likely my last toy since I need to start funneling money in to a fund for my kids future, maybe an eventual job upgrade can get me a manual finally if I start piecing it together slowly.
 
i had to swap the input shaft on my 100 series h151f with a 1fz inputshaft as it came setup for a 2uz. 5th gear looks identical to yours with no threaded holes. i used a simple 3 jaw outside gear puller from harbor freight. the transmission was brand new and did not require a lot of power to pull the gear off, no heat either. I have pulled several toyota manual transmissions apart and compared to anything else i have worked on i found they required less force to pull gears off shafts.

Thanks Audi2nr, That is helpful...

However I'm sure if toyota have changed the design (I am struggling to find an exploded diagram of the H152 gearbox) but I tried a similar approach and couldn't get the gear of at all. (Like I was putting such a large amount of force the gear puller thread started to bind up.

I am wondering if they have put another snap ring in between the large main gear and the hub?

Anyway, I made 2 different custom tools to try just pulling on the hub instead, no luck. I was bending 25x25x3mm box steel and the gear still wouldn't let go.

Tried a 3rd modified tool (by grinding down a gear puller to fit into the small gap near the hub "keys" or whatever you call them, ended up breaking the gear (which I still can't get off).

So now I need to find a way to remove the gear without damaging the main shaft, then buy a replacement set of parts (which I can't seem to find part numbers for).

So far I've spent probably 15 hours in total trying to get this bloody gear off with no luck. Getting very annoyed and depressed, as I'm slowly damaging a brand new H152 gearbox.

No idea what you are doing. Are you upgrading 5th in an H151?

Cheers

I am trying to fit a brand new input shaft (to suit an 80 series) into a brand new H152. In order to do that I have to remove that rear hub so I can remove the retaining cage that holds the bearings so I can drop down the counter shaft to allow me to pull the input shaft off.

What should have been a 4-5 hour job has now taken 3 days, ruined a couple of different tools and ruined the actual hub i still haven't been able to get off. So its not going well...

I just dont understand why this is so stuck on? Its a brand new 2022 gearbox.... Hasn't been used yet. And I can't see anything else holding it on (I've obviously removed the retaining clip).

I've also done this 5 or 6 times now on earlier H151/H152 gearboxes, but this is the first time I've encountered one without the holes drilled and with that hub so stuck on.
 
Not sure if this is the right thread to add this in, but has anyone done the swap of a brand new (2022) H152F into a 80 series?

Specifically the issue I am facing is the 5th gear clutch hub on the back of the mainshaft hasn't been drilled and tapped (like it is in all H150/H151 and at least the earlier H152 gearboxes).

This is making it really difficult to remove. I have tried pulling the main gear set (as i think it pushes up against the hub), but trying really hard not to damage the teeth on the gearset). Next option I guess is heat, but wondering if anyone has successfully drilled and tapped the hub in place?

View attachment 3409735

Your picture is of the rear end of the mainshaft? The spline is the output spline that connects to the transfer?

If so, that's the reverse gear and reverse clutch hub, not 5th gear.

Screenshot_20230827_204229_Brave.jpg


Screenshot_20230827_204932_Brave.jpg


 
Toyodiy part diagram for 2022 H152 shows only a snap ring, then the clutch hub.

At this point, if you've already damaged the hub, maybe try heating the hub
 
Thanks Audi2nr, That is helpful...

However I'm sure if toyota have changed the design (I am struggling to find an exploded diagram of the H152 gearbox) but I tried a similar approach and couldn't get the gear of at all. (Like I was putting such a large amount of force the gear puller thread started to bind up.

I am wondering if they have put another snap ring in between the large main gear and the hub?

Anyway, I made 2 different custom tools to try just pulling on the hub instead, no luck. I was bending 25x25x3mm box steel and the gear still wouldn't let go.

Tried a 3rd modified tool (by grinding down a gear puller to fit into the small gap near the hub "keys" or whatever you call them, ended up breaking the gear (which I still can't get off).

So now I need to find a way to remove the gear without damaging the main shaft, then buy a replacement set of parts (which I can't seem to find part numbers for).

So far I've spent probably 15 hours in total trying to get this bloody gear off with no luck. Getting very annoyed and depressed, as I'm slowly damaging a brand new H152 gearbox.



I am trying to fit a brand new input shaft (to suit an 80 series) into a brand new H152. In order to do that I have to remove that rear hub so I can remove the retaining cage that holds the bearings so I can drop down the counter shaft to allow me to pull the input shaft off.

What should have been a 4-5 hour job has now taken 3 days, ruined a couple of different tools and ruined the actual hub i still haven't been able to get off. So its not going well...

I just dont understand why this is so stuck on? Its a brand new 2022 gearbox.... Hasn't been used yet. And I can't see anything else holding it on (I've obviously removed the retaining clip).

I've also done this 5 or 6 times now on earlier H151/H152 gearboxes, but this is the first time I've encountered one without the holes drilled and with that hub so stuck on.


Just put a wedge shaped block of wood in here, spread it enough so you can slide the whole input out. Remove snap rings, press bearing off 152 input and press on new 151 input. Put your syncro on the 151 input, drop the input into the 152. Put case back together and done.

C4C1E43E-7270-4AD1-A20B-1C6A909A769D.jpeg



Cheers
 
Just put a wedge shaped block of wood in here, spread it enough so you can slide the whole input out. Remove snap rings, press bearing off 152 input and press on new 151 input. Put your syncro on the 151 input, drop the input into the 152. Put case back together and done.

View attachment 3412488


Cheers
Just to confirm you’re not saying you have to remove the main shaft or anything? Just slightly spread the shafts to coax the input shaft out and back in?
 
that's sort of what I'm thinking.
in any event, we're now collecting parts for the conversion (started with the hardest one, I guess)
I've done the manual swap but didn't go with the console just the oem boots and new carpet kit from dnp.
 
I've done the manual swap but didn't go with the console just the oem boots and new carpet kit from dnp.

Got a pic of what you did for a console? Assuming you used a console?

My Aussie 5speed 80 has no console around the shifters. Been looking at making something, because, well, . . .






cupholders! 😳

🤣
 
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I really like deltas console. But I imagine it's not for everyone.

But if I manual swap that's definitely the direction I'm going.
 

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