GX470 Metallic Interior Trim Matching (7 Viewers)

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Apologies on any mistakes here - this is my first post. Wanted to share some info with folks on what I've learned while trying to paint match my GX470's metallic interior trim in the center dashboard and console area. My vehicle has the beige interior, so not sure if this applies to the black leather interior's too. I'm in the process of doing a nav to non-nav conversion with an android headunit, and the new bezel I received was flat black. I'm a perfectionist, so I decided to try my best to get a paint match.

Stuff that doesn't work (you can skip to the next paragraph if you just want the "what works info"). First I bought the Rust-oleum Oil Rubbed Bronze. This looked like a near perfect match, but ended up too dark and also the metallic specks were much bigger than the the OEM paint. I bought another can of Rust-oleum in "Satin Nickel" (because the pewter color was out of stock) and did a super light coat and the match was better, but still not great. After each spray, I also did a light wetland with 2500 grit sandpaper which improved smoothness dramatically and helped color slightly. Aside from the colors not being a good match, I don't think any of the Rustoleum "Universal Advanced Forumla" sprays would be a good match due to the metallic specks not matching size. Also, I really dislike the advanced formula spray handle. Also they cost more. These advanced formulas do have a combined primer, so it's possible that helped with adhesion (since I had zero issues there), but I'm betting any regular Rustoleum would have adhered just as well from the start.

What does work: Went back to the hardware store and this time picked up Rustoleum Metallic Finish "Dark Bronze" and "Metallic Matte Nickel". These are regular Rustoleum spray cans. The Dark Bronze was a very close match, but a bit too dark. The "metallic flake size" is a perfect match though! I then used the nickel spray to do an ultra light misting. Beware, the Metallic Nickel shows up way more than the Bronze if you overspray. After the light misting I checked it against the lower AC panel to see if the color matched and then ended up doing a few more light mists with the Nickel (checking color match after each mist). I'm going to let this dry for 24hrs then do a 2500 grit light wet-sanding and then apply a light satin clear coat.

Suggestions for future folks: There's another color called "Semi-Gloss Anodized Bronze" that looked slightly lighter than "Dark Bronze", but it didn't seem to have the metallic sheen to it. Might be worth trying if you want to experiment. heard some people in other forms recommend the "Metallic Black Night Sky", but that looked too dark to me and didn't have enough brown (see photos below). Rustoleum Metallic Finish "Dark Bronze" does work well as a main base. To get a perfect match you'll need a lighter metallic color to blend (by lightly misting). The Nickel metallic works, but it's a huge difference in color. I recommend not using Nickel and trying to find a color that's closer, but still lighter, than the bronze. Good luck!

Photo 1 - Fail using Oil Rubbed Bronze and Satin Nickel Combo.
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Photo 2 - Line-up of potential color matches. Left to right: Black Night Sky, Dark Bronze, Anodized Bronze, Nickel.
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Photo 3 - Original Trim for comparison.
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Photo 4 - Success! Results after Dark Bronze and Nickel. Still need to let it dry for 24hrs then wetsand and apply clear coat.
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Photo 5 - All the supplies that worked. Not shown - 2500 grit sandpaper.
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That’s awesome. Thank you for being a perfectionist, and for posting this! Saving this for if I ever get around to the non nav conversion.
 
I really appreciate this! I’m using this method for my 05 Gx470. I’m the 4th owner and the shifter surround is in desperate need of an update. The dark bronze is better on its own than what was there. Waiting on Amazon to ship the matte nickel to finish up.
 
My man, thank you! I was scouring the internet trying to get close. That refresh looks so good, I might do my new parts from Blue Dog Design and touch up the old gear as well.
 
FWIW, I used Dupli-Color wheel paint on my trim (I didn't know this thread was out there - it's a bit lighter than the OEM color). Hindsight being 20/20, I'd have just had everything wrapped in a relatively similar color. The spray paint is not as durable as the paint Toyota used from the factory, mine has chipped in a few places, even though I coated everything in clear.

I also pulled out the entire center console and other trim, scrubbed it with Dawn spray soap, and used a Magic Eraser to further clean them up. This worked wonders and restored stuff quite a bit. I then painted all of the grey parts. The BlueDog pieces can be prepped for painting by filling the 3D printer marks with glazing putty, sanding, and hitting them up with high-build primer (it takes a few rounds). Mine came out pretty smooth. All of my BlueDog center console pieces were custom and he should still have the 3D files for them.
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FWIW, I used Dupli-Color wheel paint on my trim (I didn't know this thread was out there - it's a bit lighter than the OEM color). Hindsight being 20/20, I'd have just had everything wrapped in a relatively similar color. The spray paint is not as durable as the paint Toyota used from the factory, mine has chipped in a few places, even though I coated everything in clear.

I also pulled out the entire center console and other trim, scrubbed it with Dawn spray soap, and used a Magic Eraser to further clean them up. This worked wonders and restored stuff quite a bit. I then painted all of the grey parts. The BlueDog pieces can be prepped for painting by filling the 3D printer marks with glazing putty, sanding, and hitting them up with high-build primer (it takes a few rounds). Mine came out pretty smooth. All of my BlueDog center console pieces were custom and he should still have the 3D files for them.
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SO you went fill and sand as opposed to sand and sand some more. I emailed him yesterday to say thank you for the parts and that I hadn't gotten around to installing. Then asked what he recommended for sanding. I was going to treat it line mill lines and hit is 250, 400, 800 prime and paint.

After reading this thread, I thought, gosh, mine as well refresh the whole transmission tunnel (like you did), and it will look great.
 
SO you went fill and sand as opposed to sand and sand some more. I emailed him yesterday to say thank you for the parts and that I hadn't gotten around to installing. Then asked what he recommended for sanding. I was going to treat it line mill lines and hit is 250, 400, 800 prime and paint.

After reading this thread, I thought, gosh, mine as well refresh the whole transmission tunnel (like you did), and it will look great.
Correct, filling first with glazing putty (about $6 a tube at the auto parts store) to fill in the deeper printing marks. Then sanding - then more putty - then more sanding. IMO the putty will save a lot of sanding as some of the printing marks are pretty deep. The putty dries in 20 minutes.
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