GX460 Transmission fluid cooler (8 Viewers)

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When I install my Hayden 678, I’m going to buy the hardlines and bracket from Toyota. Any recommendations for the install? I’m going to get a pump and do a flush after the install.
 
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When I install my Hayden 678, I’m going to buy the hardlines and bracket from Toyota. Any recommendations for the install? I’m going to get a pump and do a flush after the install.
Yea hardline is a good idea, I'll likely be adding that to my install sometime in the future. Id recommend a 3/8th Magnefine filter pre cooler.

Also Make sure to get a few quarts over system capacity for the fluid exchange. Id do it with a helper shifting through the "gears" while the car pumps out ~2ish quarts at a time and keep refilling. Till it comes out fresh from the cooler line. Make sure to pin the thermostat!
 
When I install my Hayden 678, I’m going to buy the hardlines and bracket from Toyota. Any recommendations for the install? I’m going to get a pump and do a flush after the install.
Don’t forget the bolt to attach the bracket to the oil cooler lines and then the one that attaches the bracket/line to the radiator support. Here is the part number. You need two of them.
9008011589
 
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@thescreensavers @evolute Thanks for replies! I’ll check out that filter and I’ll add the bolts. Anyone running full synthetic or anything different than WS ATF? Also, I thought I read somewhere that there may be a switch you can adjust to make the transmission have a more aggressive shift so there’s less slip and more bite. Does anyone remember reading about that? Could’ve been on a different Toyota transmission. Maybe I’m delusional.
 
I run Valvoline MaxLife ATF. It's a WS replacement, full synthetic fluid. About $25 for a 4 quart jug at most auto and big box stores. Lots of folks use it in Toyota transmissions.

Regardless of fluid type, make sure you get all the old stuff out so you aren't mixing new with old. You can never be 100% sure what kind of fluid is in the rig unless you bought it new.
 
@thescreensavers @evolute Thanks for replies! I’ll check out that filter and I’ll add the bolts. Anyone running full synthetic or anything different than WS ATF? Also, I thought I read somewhere that there may be a switch you can adjust to make the transmission have a more aggressive shift so there’s less slip and more bite. Does anyone remember reading about that? Could’ve been on a different Toyota transmission. Maybe I’m delusional.
I used Valvoline in our 470 with no issues when I had it. Use Toyota WS in the 460 and 200.

Are you referring to the ECT Power for the transmission?? My 200 has it…haven’t looked at the 460.
 
@thescreensavers @evolute Thanks for replies! I’ll check out that filter and I’ll add the bolts. Anyone running full synthetic or anything different than WS ATF? Also, I thought I read somewhere that there may be a switch you can adjust to make the transmission have a more aggressive shift so there’s less slip and more bite. Does anyone remember reading about that? Could’ve been on a different Toyota transmission. Maybe I’m delusional.

I used Idemitsu TLS-LV for my GXs first drain and fill, same time added the cooler and filter. Will be doing a full exchange this year but likely going with AMSOIL Signature Series Fuel-Efficient.
 
I used Valvoline in our 470 with no issues when I had it. Use Toyota WS in the 460 and 200.

Are you referring to the ECT Power for the transmission?? My 200 has it…haven’t looked at the 460.
No, I remember reading a response on a thread somewhere were a person dropped their trans pan and there was a pin you could push in and move a small lever/switch forward or backwards to adjust slippage of the clutch. Usually luxury vehicles have more slippage for smoother shifts.
 
Must be that time of year I know it is for me, plus just went over 50K. Couple of weeks ago when I took the GX in for the "free" oil change and tire rotation they told me that the brake pads were down to 4mm. Which is what they told me 6 months ago LOL. And it would only be $850 to replace them. Excuse me? Is that just the pads, are you sure? Yes. Hard pass I now have both fronts and rears from Bell Lexus sale for ~$150.

Have an appointment at my 4x4 shop to drop the GX off in the morning when they open. At $75 an hour I will pay them to do the work.

ATF drain and fill
Engine Coolant flush
Pin T stat open with cotter pin and leave in place
Install Hayden 698 Tranny cooler with Mountain Passes bracket
Replace brake pads
Brake fluid flush

Don’t forget the bolt to attach the bracket to the oil cooler lines and then the one that attaches the bracket/line to the radiator support. Here is the part number. You need two of them.
9008011589

Thanks for that! Look for a little bit extra in your paycheck. It will not be there but you can look for it :)

I have the hard bracket cooler line and didn't even notice there is not a bolt in the package. Didn't see this until last night so too late to go to the Toyota Dealer they are closed today. So did some digging and that bolt and washer is used in a lot of places by Toyota, even the battery tray for many vehicles. Could not reference the exact size of the bolt but it looked like a M6 so did a search using "Toyota 9008011589 M6" and second hit on the list came right back to Mud. Toyota Bolt SIze and PN.xlsx

M6x12HIFW14mmOD6TSIL

Looks like M6x12mm with a 14mm Outside Dia washer. Got to love Home Depot same day free delivery

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Thanks again!

I’ve used a Motive setup like this to refill AT in mine.. [From my posts in 2019]

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Using this adapter


1_8a030d94aa392f6a35e59e0a067b6e08fa7e0b75_jpeg_4632972a3f57157af7d42afa6e79abe90ee9a0b8.jpg

My eyes never made it past the green machine LOL. I have Dillion blue and red MEC for shotgun shells. And of course green Rock Chucker. About the same time I picked up my RCBS Rock Chucker I also picked up some patches for my Steelhead fishing vest.

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It is at least 45 years old now I probably should throw it away, but the struggle is real.
 
My 4x4 shop installed the Hayden 698 with T-Stat on Monday on the Mountain Passes bracket. Plus coolant flush, tranny drain and fill with new filter and brake pads installed all the way around with brake fluid flush. Bypass is pinned open for the summer. $495 was well worth it to me. Over the next week the diffs and transfer case all get drained and filled.

Only a couple of days for data points but so far I am very impressed. Ambient temp this morning was 45° and I compared temps to screen shots from last year at this time with air temps on the display as well. I never got over 165 and that was only briefly pan went back down to 160 quickly. Previously in same location was 191, 193 and 195. 30+ degrees cooler. Forecast is showing temps breaking 70 next week for the first time in 6 months so will see. And the difference while towing soon. But I'm very optimistic.

Pan comes up to 145 pretty quick then slowly works up to 160 after 10 minutes or more at 72 mph.

Engine Coolant temp dropped as well, at least 5 degrees cooler. I wasn't expecting that but will take it as a win. 189-190 instead of 195-198 which was previously the normal.

When I got home and got out pretty sure I heard a quiet little voice coming from the GX saying thank you.
 
what is minimum sustained trans temp? ie is 160F considered operating temperature?
Generally around the 200º F ± 10° or 15°.
If you can keep it 10° or 20° below the 200° F mark is probably best. Mine usually rides around 210° - 220º F. I don't tow, but I have a very heavy rig.
Shouldn't sustain a temp of more than 230° F or you're cooking your trans fluid.
 
I'm running the OEM cooler and the thermostat is pinned. I'm able to keep temps 200-220 when running the truck hard, e.g. soft sand, otherwise it stays 190-200 or below in regular stop and go driving.
 
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I'm running the OEM cooler and the thermostat is pinned. I'm able to keep temps 200-220 when running the truck hard, e.g. soft sand, otherwise it stays 190-200 or below in regular stop and go driving.
thanks, I was concerned about overcooling. I may go pin the t stat since it sounds like temps will still be warm enough. I only have about 300lb-400lb additional (full skids, winch/mount, sliders, misc items), but removed 3rd row seats.
 
thanks, I was concerned about overcooling. I may go pin the t stat since it sounds like temps will still be warm enough. I only have about 400lb additional.
yeah, I wouldn't be concerned with overcooling. Pinning does prolong cooler temps between start up and operating temps, but not by a significant amount. May be a concern in colder climates during winter, but you could always just 'unpin' during the coldest months.
 
thanks, I was concerned about overcooling. I may go pin the t stat since it sounds like temps will still be warm enough. I only have about 300lb-400lb additional (full skids, winch/mount, sliders, misc items), but removed 3rd row seats.

We have had Convo on this, and the Tldr was if the transmission is locking the torque converter then it's warm enough.
 
thanks, I was concerned about overcooling. I may go pin the t stat since it sounds like temps will still be warm enough. I only have about 300lb-400lb additional (full skids, winch/mount, sliders, misc items), but removed 3rd row seats.

yeah, I wouldn't be concerned with overcooling. Pinning does prolong cooler temps between start up and operating temps, but not by a significant amount. May be a concern in colder climates during winter, but you could always just 'unpin' during the coldest months.

I went with the Hayden 698 because it has a T-Stat. And will pin the transmission warmer bypass open from May 1 until Oct 1. The bypass will be open those 5 months of the year even though we did get 15" of snow the first week of May a few years ago.

As mentioned as long as TC locks up you are fine. No one ever has showed any adverse effects of overcooling and there really isn't a definition of it. Except for the lock up on the convertor requires engine coolant temps of 140° or above. Rednexus posted a chart upstream that I have used before but don't want to be a copy cat so here is another version of it but in km

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Higher ATF temps are bad that has been proven time and time again. Here is a shot of ATF temps on a typical Mn. winter day at 14 above zero, 14 below zero is about the same. After idling and 10 minute warm up then driving for 15 minutes to town. This is after another 15 minute trip back home. Stock setup and bypass in normal operating condition and no transmission cooler.

54209559286_ef87faaa85_b.jpg


What is this overcooling thing that is spoke of? :)
 
At 0° ATF can start to thicken and at -10°F it can interfere with shifting and cause problems.

But if you pull up to a gas station island and it has a diesel pump without one of these signs around

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you probably don't have to worry about overcooling your ATF. However if you are regularly in the teens and twenties below zero in the winter you might want to unpin the warmer bypass that time of year

Driveway shots on Tacoma World are frowned on but I couldn't help myself one day when someone from Florida was complaining about the cold there

54320564507_e57aa77a16_b.jpg


As we used to say on the rock in Hawaii, just another chitty day in Paradise
 
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We have had Convo on this, and the Tldr was if the transmission is locking the torque converter then it's warm enough.
using my scangauge 3, I've seen it lock as low as 150f.
At 0° ATF can start to thicken and at -10°F it can interfere with shifting and cause problems.

But if you pull up to a gas station island and it has a diesel pump without one of these signs around

53462591115_2c6442dc59_b.jpg


you probably don't have to worry about overcooling your ATF. However if you are regularly in the teens and twenties below zero in the winter you might want to unpin the warmer bypass that time of year

Driveway shots on Tacoma World are frowned on but I couldn't help myself one day when someone from Florida was complaining about the cold there

54320564507_e57aa77a16_b.jpg


As we used to say on the rock in Hawaii, just another chitty day in Paradise
wow I have never seen one of those signs before. I used to work at an oil refinery in the Midwest and was required to be at the job site no matter what. The worse the weather, the more important I was there (according to my then boss). My coldest was starting my car at -30f ambient, smelling my starter motor burn, and really feeling the thick trans fluid during shifts. I had a stick shift at the time.
 
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