Acrad
GOLD Star
that was attempted here before AT replacement on post #204
GX460 P2714 P0761 Ultimate Summary and Hope For A Fix Thread
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that was attempted here before AT replacement on post #204
Acrad
GOLD Star
So I wanted to give a quick update to our scenario, So speed sensor did not solve the issue. I then did a complete fluid exchange around April or May. While inspecting fluid I did not notice any excessive material in the Fluid to make me think i was destroying friction plates. All this stated It did not solve my issue. Still getting the P2714 code and following P0761, however there were no drivability issues at all. I started driving by shifting to 4th until fluids warmed and then would progress to 6th. Despite the manual shifting I was still getting these codes from time to time. During out first cold front we had morning temps in the 60's about 6 weeks ago and had my first problem arise. I drove out of a parking lot in the early morning hours as I work 24 hour shifts. I found my self on the hwy with the truck not shifting to 4th. ( Highest functioning gear was 3rd). I pulled over and turned the truck off. waited a couple minutes and continued on my way but still couldn't shift out of 3rd to 4th for the whole drive home. Next drive was in the 90 degree heat and drove fine.
I figured that I needed to manual shift keeping transmission in 3rd until the fluid warmed from that point forward. So watching temps get to 130 degrees before shifting to D solved the P2714 and P0761 from ever returning. Knowing I had an issue and looking for solutions I came to a couple conclusions. 1) replace solenoids and hope that was the culprit, 2)replace solenoids and Valve body, 3) replace the whole transmission which it seemed like would be the end result because so many were failing to find a simpler solution, and 4) sell the truck.
1) I can change solenoids but not able to bench test the units to insure this is the problem, 2) not familiar enough with the VB to inspect pistons and casing to know there are issues or not comfortable enough to do a Sonax kit on my own. 3) hate to spend 5K when the truck is barely having a shift issue. 4) I don't want to sell because replacing will be too costly at this point for us.
I opted to go with a transmission shop with good references from people I trusted. Knowing enough about the issues and potential issues from others in this group gave me a good amount of info to be sure I got answers that made me comfortable in regards to the potential problems and solutions.
Shift issue completely stopped and historic fault all but disappeared from ECM with keeping S3 until fluid was at 130 degrees. I found a local transmission shop that was willing to diagnose and test all the components. I was afraid of a shop that would just "throw parts at it". Luckily this shop was technically proficient and during a couple conversations I felt comfortable they would do the work diagnosing before switching parts out.
Results from Transmission shop - S3 and SLT solenoids were sub spec for Ohm readings. After warming them, they would work. these 2 solenoids were also not engaging sharply on the test bench compared to the others in the VB. Magnets material accumulation looked normal. ( Although I have done 2 fluid exchanges in its lifetime I have never dropped the pan and cleaned the magnets. I was told the pistons and VB casing looked ok and was not scored from debris. So far I have had no codes or driving issues arrive with several 60 degree mornings.
Diagnosis, Filter, gasket, 2 solenoids and fluid ran me $750.
I figured that I needed to manual shift keeping transmission in 3rd until the fluid warmed from that point forward. So watching temps get to 130 degrees before shifting to D solved the P2714 and P0761 from ever returning. Knowing I had an issue and looking for solutions I came to a couple conclusions. 1) replace solenoids and hope that was the culprit, 2)replace solenoids and Valve body, 3) replace the whole transmission which it seemed like would be the end result because so many were failing to find a simpler solution, and 4) sell the truck.
1) I can change solenoids but not able to bench test the units to insure this is the problem, 2) not familiar enough with the VB to inspect pistons and casing to know there are issues or not comfortable enough to do a Sonax kit on my own. 3) hate to spend 5K when the truck is barely having a shift issue. 4) I don't want to sell because replacing will be too costly at this point for us.
I opted to go with a transmission shop with good references from people I trusted. Knowing enough about the issues and potential issues from others in this group gave me a good amount of info to be sure I got answers that made me comfortable in regards to the potential problems and solutions.
Shift issue completely stopped and historic fault all but disappeared from ECM with keeping S3 until fluid was at 130 degrees. I found a local transmission shop that was willing to diagnose and test all the components. I was afraid of a shop that would just "throw parts at it". Luckily this shop was technically proficient and during a couple conversations I felt comfortable they would do the work diagnosing before switching parts out.
Results from Transmission shop - S3 and SLT solenoids were sub spec for Ohm readings. After warming them, they would work. these 2 solenoids were also not engaging sharply on the test bench compared to the others in the VB. Magnets material accumulation looked normal. ( Although I have done 2 fluid exchanges in its lifetime I have never dropped the pan and cleaned the magnets. I was told the pistons and VB casing looked ok and was not scored from debris. So far I have had no codes or driving issues arrive with several 60 degree mornings.
All in all I think the Solenoid replacement could be a viable solution if the problem has not persisted long enough to cause VB wear, or Friction plate wear. I am going to reserve judgement for now, its only been a week but I think the sooner we address these issues we could save some people from having to replace a complete Transmission replacement bill.
Diagnosis, Filter, gasket, 2 solenoids and fluid ran me $750.
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Going to post my update. I first posted in this thread about 11 months ago I had 134k miles and got the codes. Cleared them and they would come back occasionally (every 7-14 days). Eventually I got tired of clearing them and replaced the speed sensors and checked the fluid. Fluid was dark but had no metal on the speed sensor magnets and the fluid had no metal particles. I decided to just ignore the codes and have been driving with them on for many many months, and doing the start in manual (sport mode) daily until it was warmed up and then would drive fine even with the dash lights on.
Well… It’s now been 11 months and 20k more miles (154k total). The truck started shifting weird last month or so on the first 2-3 upshift of the day. Sometimes it would seem like it couldn’t engage 3rd and would re-engage 2nd after an attempt at third before hitting third successfully on a second attempt. But always fine after warming up a few miles.
Today the truck failed to go into reverse in the afternoon after driving all day. Twice it wouldn’t go into reverse. At the end of the day when I got home from work it did go into reverse. I backed it into my driveway tonight for the last time and it’ll be sitting there while I look to source a new transmission. Doesn’t seem to be another fix for this I’ve been following this thread for about a year hoping for an easy solution, but there doesn’t seem to be one.
So if you are in the beginning stages you can likely take your time to make a plan, but in my case after 20k miles of mostly city driving the tranny has finally kicked the bucket and will need to be replaced.
So here’s a question. I found the part number for the transmission as:
When I Google it’s coming up on alot of Toyota dealer web sights. Can this be ordered through a Toyota dealership as well as a Lexus one? Has anyone ever had a Toyota dealership work on their GX? The nearest Lexus dealership is like 20 miles away but I have a yota dealership only a few miles away.
Well… It’s now been 11 months and 20k more miles (154k total). The truck started shifting weird last month or so on the first 2-3 upshift of the day. Sometimes it would seem like it couldn’t engage 3rd and would re-engage 2nd after an attempt at third before hitting third successfully on a second attempt. But always fine after warming up a few miles.
Today the truck failed to go into reverse in the afternoon after driving all day. Twice it wouldn’t go into reverse. At the end of the day when I got home from work it did go into reverse. I backed it into my driveway tonight for the last time and it’ll be sitting there while I look to source a new transmission. Doesn’t seem to be another fix for this I’ve been following this thread for about a year hoping for an easy solution, but there doesn’t seem to be one.
So if you are in the beginning stages you can likely take your time to make a plan, but in my case after 20k miles of mostly city driving the tranny has finally kicked the bucket and will need to be replaced.
So here’s a question. I found the part number for the transmission as:
35010-35B70-84
When I Google it’s coming up on alot of Toyota dealer web sights. Can this be ordered through a Toyota dealership as well as a Lexus one? Has anyone ever had a Toyota dealership work on their GX? The nearest Lexus dealership is like 20 miles away but I have a yota dealership only a few miles away.
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- Thread starter
- #225
I think you bring up a good conclusion as @Biginboca went a bit further in miles/time and it was too late.
FINAL THOUGHTS: Get it diagnosed at a reputable transmission shop for fluid, metal in magnets, speed sensors, solenoids, valve body, etc. IF EARLY, replace what you can and fingers crossed you are good to go. IF TOO LATE: Do fluid, consider solenoids and advice, but manual shift until warmed up as you look through a plan to exit with the vehicle or replace the transmission. Could have 8-24 months.
I've owned my GX since 90k miles. Performed a drain and refill immediately since the dealer did the 90k drive line service on it.
Fluid looked typical. Nothing out of the ordinary.
@ 132k my friend @ the local Yota store wanted to perform a transmission flush on it since the Tundra's were having some issues. (it's not a pusher machine)
So I let him. Examined the fluid and it didn't look too bad.
160k performed a trans pan service with filter replacement myself. Everything looked great, no issues.
193k one morning got the codes P2714 & P0761. No it's not cold down here, live in the deep south on the beach. Immediately turned around in the neighborhood, parked it, and drove my other vehicle.
Drained the fluid, dropped the pan, nothing out of the ordinary, fluid isn't burnt, and the magnets are relatively clean. Always have used WS fluid.
I don't tow anything, maybe a golf cart a total of 3 times, short distances. Transmission showed no signs of shifting funny or getting hung up in gears.,
I'll try to contact IPT and try their VB. Contacted my local Yota dealer with the trans part # to see if they can in fact get it, they can however they're on backorder, and only a couple of Lexus dealers have them in stock (I get employee pricing @ my local Toyota since I worked there for years and continue to buy OEM parts).
I know the is250/350's had VB & solenoid issues similar to this. The trick is to replace the VB immediately before damaging the clutches when it came to the is250/350. Whenever I get the VB in, I'll update the thread. Keeping my fingers crossed that this can solve the issue.
Hate to see that the transmission is the weak link in these things. Much rather do the darned valley plate rather than replace a transmission.
Fluid looked typical. Nothing out of the ordinary.
@ 132k my friend @ the local Yota store wanted to perform a transmission flush on it since the Tundra's were having some issues. (it's not a pusher machine)
So I let him. Examined the fluid and it didn't look too bad.
160k performed a trans pan service with filter replacement myself. Everything looked great, no issues.
193k one morning got the codes P2714 & P0761. No it's not cold down here, live in the deep south on the beach. Immediately turned around in the neighborhood, parked it, and drove my other vehicle.
Drained the fluid, dropped the pan, nothing out of the ordinary, fluid isn't burnt, and the magnets are relatively clean. Always have used WS fluid.
I don't tow anything, maybe a golf cart a total of 3 times, short distances. Transmission showed no signs of shifting funny or getting hung up in gears.,
I'll try to contact IPT and try their VB. Contacted my local Yota dealer with the trans part # to see if they can in fact get it, they can however they're on backorder, and only a couple of Lexus dealers have them in stock (I get employee pricing @ my local Toyota since I worked there for years and continue to buy OEM parts).
I know the is250/350's had VB & solenoid issues similar to this. The trick is to replace the VB immediately before damaging the clutches when it came to the is250/350. Whenever I get the VB in, I'll update the thread. Keeping my fingers crossed that this can solve the issue.
Hate to see that the transmission is the weak link in these things. Much rather do the darned valley plate rather than replace a transmission.
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Any update on new valve body? Seems as if there is no definite fix for this issue yet.
We have a 2012 GX460 and had the following problems: P0761 Shift Solenoid C performance. And P2714 Pressure Control Solenoid D performance. It wouldn’t shift into 4th gear when driving. So we were comfortably limited to about 50-60mph. Also it wouldn’t shift. Last year, we had taken it to a couple transmission shops and they told us the same thing (replace the tranny for $6-8k)….
Yesterday, we drained the fluid (the “overflow” plug was first opened (about 1.5 qts came out <— big red flag). Then the main drain (about 3 qts <— expected).
When I removed the pan, tons of AT fluid on the wires and solenoids (indicating they were swimming/drowning in AT fluid). Very little metal on the magnets (about a dab of metal fines collectively a paste about the size of a grain of rice).
I cleaned all the solenoid terminals with carb/choke cleaner (best I could find easily, but I’m sure some sort of electrical terminal cleaner would be ideal). Then tested all the solenoids for continuity (13.5 -14.5 ohm) and actuation using 9v battery: S1, S2, S3, S4 would make a distinct click, while SR did not make the click. So after a little thinking I contemplated if SR needs Hydraulic Pressure to actuate against.
Next step (properly fill with the “overflow” plug open). We filled with cold fluid until overflow; then plugged the overflow, then warmed up the transmission fluid, then opened the overflow plug to confirm proper fill.
Test drive confirmed shifting on all gears; including reverse works. We will continue to test, but some simple (low-cost steps):
1) check your transmission fluid level is proper. Solenoids and terminal connections don’t seem to perform well in AT fluid.
2) if you drain and remove the pan, check for metal on the magnets. Then clean solenoid terminals with some spray that is safe for cleaning electrical terminals and evaporates fairly quickly.
3) test solenoid terminal continuity using a multi-meter (check your spec’s for proper resistance).
4) Test solenoids for proper actuation.
5) replace pan and fluid; be sure to fill to proper level and check when warm.
Hope this long summary helps encourage someone out there who is struggling with the same problems.
And by the way, removing the SR solenoid is very easy: Simple electrical connector button and one 10mm bolt. Tons of videos on youtube to remove them.
Thank you for having this forum. It’s been very helpful for me over the years.
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- #230
- Thread starter
- #231
@FloydtheQPilot - Excellent write up, thanks for adding to the group!
Curious - Once you finished this process and buttoned it back up, did the codes go away or are you still experiencing them? Thanks!
Curious - Once you finished this process and buttoned it back up, did the codes go away or are you still experiencing them? Thanks!
This is an excellent thread and has been very helpful. I really appreciate the level of detail different folks have contributed in trying to get this figured out.
2011 here with 145k. Had this issue for the first time a year ago after a 150 mile trip pulling a boat. Got all the flashing lights and eventually took it to a shop. They drained and filled the ATF and cleaned the solenoids. Old ATF apparently looked pretty bad. Flashing lights and codes gone until now.
This week I drove from Louisiana to Virginia for Thanksgiving and no issues. A day after I get here, the 4LO starts flashing again with the check engine light and I get the p2714. It is pretty cold up here so this all checks out. I cleared the code and took it out today. Would not shift up to 4th until I ran it for a while and got it warmed up.
I don't have any good input here so this is more or less a rant. I love this stupid car and had just finished my lift and have been loving the way it feels driving. I've been looking at new wheel tire combinations, but now I'm asking myself if I should even bother. Just feeling bummed that I may need to replace the transmission on a car I bought not only for its performance but because of its reputation as "bulletproof" and "a tank that will go forever". My buddy with a 2012 and similar mileage is experiencing the same thing.
I'm a big Toyota guy and will probably still continue to be, but I am pretty soured by all this. Like @Biginboca, I'm pretty annoyed that Lexus has not acknowledged what must be a known issue. Now I have to decide if I feel like the car is worth putting a new transmission in. And if I decide it's not, I don't want to sell it to someone without disclosing the likely issues they will face down the road. Because of this, I may wind up with the new transmission, but it will be grudgingly. Up to this point I have had nothing but good things to say about this car and have recommended used ones to friends, but now I don't feel like I can make that recommendation.
I'll stop now. Just feeling more bummed than I reasonably should that a car I love and planned to buy more of in the future is now tarnished in my mind.
2011 here with 145k. Had this issue for the first time a year ago after a 150 mile trip pulling a boat. Got all the flashing lights and eventually took it to a shop. They drained and filled the ATF and cleaned the solenoids. Old ATF apparently looked pretty bad. Flashing lights and codes gone until now.
This week I drove from Louisiana to Virginia for Thanksgiving and no issues. A day after I get here, the 4LO starts flashing again with the check engine light and I get the p2714. It is pretty cold up here so this all checks out. I cleared the code and took it out today. Would not shift up to 4th until I ran it for a while and got it warmed up.
I don't have any good input here so this is more or less a rant. I love this stupid car and had just finished my lift and have been loving the way it feels driving. I've been looking at new wheel tire combinations, but now I'm asking myself if I should even bother. Just feeling bummed that I may need to replace the transmission on a car I bought not only for its performance but because of its reputation as "bulletproof" and "a tank that will go forever". My buddy with a 2012 and similar mileage is experiencing the same thing.
I'm a big Toyota guy and will probably still continue to be, but I am pretty soured by all this. Like @Biginboca, I'm pretty annoyed that Lexus has not acknowledged what must be a known issue. Now I have to decide if I feel like the car is worth putting a new transmission in. And if I decide it's not, I don't want to sell it to someone without disclosing the likely issues they will face down the road. Because of this, I may wind up with the new transmission, but it will be grudgingly. Up to this point I have had nothing but good things to say about this car and have recommended used ones to friends, but now I don't feel like I can make that recommendation.
I'll stop now. Just feeling more bummed than I reasonably should that a car I love and planned to buy more of in the future is now tarnished in my mind.
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I have this issue now, and will try the IPT VB, looking for a reputable shop to do the install.
Id also look into adding a Magnefine filter or similar to help reduce VB wear and protect your new trans.
Acrad
GOLD Star
On the 460 anyway.. I can’t remember anyone in nearly 8 years reporting that fluid was serviced every 30-60k miles from new and still experienced a failure…outside of some real outlier scenarios.
If you look at the location of those having tranny issues in this thread with the exception of the OP they are all in the deep hot South. Florida, Louisiana, Mississippi and Texas. With Florida and Texas having the strongest representation.
First noticed it on FB, most posting about it are from Florida and Texas. There was another one posted a couple of hours ago and couldn't tell the location of the OP but there were 3 "me too" in the comment section and all 3 were from either Fl. or Tx.
The reason I noticed location is a common theme where they say it starts when the temps get "cold" usually ~40 degrees. WTH I won't see 40° or above for another 5 months, it got my attention. Which brings up a question why aren't more in the North like where I am and it gets down to -20 below that is below zero °F having issues? My thought is because their ATF is cooked and hard. Once you start having issues at 40 degrees my guess is it is too late to do much short of a rebuild or new\reman tranny.
Changing the ATF or at least a drain and fill at 60K like Car Care Nut recommends is at least a start. A tranny cooler would be the second thing. Especially If I lived in Fl. or Tx. But I am doing both even living in the frozen Tundra. Doesn't help those struggling with a tranny going out now but hopefully will help those not at that point never get there.
Does seem to be a lot more common with 2010-2013 but they also have more miles on them then newer ones. Did they change something later? Don't know but I'm going with it is better to be safe than sorry down the road.
Acrad
GOLD Star
Agree on the AT cooler… I added one to mine about 5 years ago now and also did full AT fluid before 60k miles.
IMO… reason one may see more 10-13 is mileage. I’ve not come across any published changes after 2013
OEM AT #Cooler Install - #transmission - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion
GX - 2nd Gen (2010-2023) - OEM AT #Cooler Install - #transmission - EDIT: This is more than likely the same setup going into the 2020+ GX 460 with off-road package. This has also long been available since 2010 in Canadian high trim models. As of 2019 this cooler is part of the Executive Package...
www.clublexus.com
IMO… reason one may see more 10-13 is mileage. I’ve not come across any published changes after 2013
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Are you aware of anyone having installed the AT cooler after getting the codes to see if it may delay transmission replacement? I’m pretty much resigned to the fact that I will be replacing at some point but would like to delay for as long as I can.Agree on the AT cooler… I added one to mine about 5 years ago now and also did full AT fluid before 60k miles.
OEM AT #Cooler Install - #transmission - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion
GX - 2nd Gen (2010-2023) - OEM AT #Cooler Install - #transmission - EDIT: This is more than likely the same setup going into the 2020+ GX 460 with off-road package. This has also long been available since 2010 in Canadian high trim models. As of 2019 this cooler is part of the Executive Package...www.clublexus.com
IMO… reason one may see more 10-13 is mileage. I’ve not come across any published changes after 2013
I just did my first pan drop and filter change at 82k. Didn’t replace all the fluid, but I’ve seen my trans temp get up to about 220-230°f climbing a steep grade here in California when the outside temperature was prob about 100°f. I was using an OBDLink to monitor temps. Reading all this makes me think I should do a flush and add a transmission cooler.