Guidance: Sourcing Grease (1 Viewer)

[WMan84]

Afternoon All,

In the process of getting maintenance done on my 80:
-Engine oil and filter
-Transmission fluid change
-Front and Rear Differential oil change
-Transfer Case Oil Change
-Radiator flush
-Grease driveshafts
-Valve cover gasket, spark plug change, spark plug gasket, new PCV, to include throttle body gasket, and form in place gasket
-Replace ignition wiring
-Rebuild right rear e-brake
-Need to source a low pressure power steering line
-Rebuild the front knuckles
-Various hose replacements

In regards to the front knuckle rebuild it appears I need:
-multi purpose lithium base wheel bearing grease, NLGI No2, at least two 1-pound tubs
-Molybdenum-disulfide lithium base wheel chassis grease, NLGI No1, at least three 1-pound tubs

Where may I find the molybdenum-disulfide? I have been to O’Reillys, Autozone, NAPA…no luck.

Thanks in advance.

 

[alia176]

this is what I stuff in the birfields and the cavity

Palladium Grease - Valvoline™ Global

A grease that provides excellent protection against extreme pressures and shock loads by employing high purity 3% molybdenum disulfide solid lubricant in an alkalinity-balanced thickener system. The lithium complex grease helps minimize wear at applied loads. Formulated to protect against high...

www.valvolineglobal.com

 

[Kernal]

^^^This^^^.

What model 80 series are you working on? (notes below apply to the FZJ80)

IME Valvoline Palladium is 3% Moly (Molybdenum Disulfide) sold at NAPA stores. Good choice IME for the knuckles, CV joints (Birfields), and the slip yolk for the driveshafts but there are other greases.

Some also use the Palladium for the U-joints but others prefer wheel bearing grease without Moly. Any grease for the wheel bearings that states it's approved for wheel bearings, one choice is the Palladium (approved for wheel bearings) or Mobil 1 Synthetic, or ---- take your pick.

Key point: Any grease is better than no grease (assuming it's compatible and not contaminated)

One ?typo above, you listed NLGI #1 for wheel bearings the book specifies NLGI #2 (unless you live in Siberia).

There's dozens of tips for all that service you plan if you haven't yet read through the FAQs and do some searches. One quick tip, remember to open the block drain on the left side of the block when you do your cooling system flush. Some people like to also remove the Thermostat, put the housing back
on, then do the flush. Replace the Thermostat (with OEM/Toyota part) if it's the original or aftermarket even if it appears to be working correctly.

When you have the throttle body and valve cover off is a good time to replace the Heat Control Valve on the firewall. Also a good time to replace
the PHH (Pesky Heater Hose, do a search if you don't know).

One way to go about it:

Remove heat control valve (replace on reassembly)
Remove Throttle Body (opportunity to clean out all the small (and large) ports, replace throttle body gasket)
While Throttle Body is off is a good time to remove and clean the IAC valve pintle and the IAC port (need to replace the IAC valve O ring)
Remove Valve cover (give you more room to work, then clean valve cover oil baffle internally (varnish/sludge can build up inside),
replace valve cover gasket and tube seals on reassembly)
Replace all heater and bypass hoses (including the PHH)
Cover the engine harness with heat protective sleeve (a split sleeve with velcro works well) where it's runs close to the EGR pipe (be gentle when moving the harness as there may already be damage internally). If the harness has drooped ensure it's clamped to the firewall correctly.
Remove and clean the EGR valve while you're there (or block it off as some people do if you don't have annual inspections)
Clean the EGR port/tunnel in the upper intake plenum (difficult while still attached to the engine but some carbon/sludge/varnish can be removed)

If you really want to get into it, remove the upper intake to clean it completely then replace all the vacuum hoses/components on the underside

Good time also to then replace the fuel filter

 

[WMan84]

^^^This^^^.

What model 80 series are you working on? (notes below apply to the FZJ80)

IME Valvoline Palladium is 3% Moly (Molybdenum Disulfide) sold at NAPA stores. Good choice IME for the knuckles, CV joints (Birfields), and the slip yolk for the driveshafts but there are other greases. Key point: Any grease is better than no grease (assuming it's compatible and not contaminated)

Some also use the Palladium for the U-joints but others prefer wheel bearing grease without Moly. Any grease for the wheel bearings that states it's approved for wheel bearings, one choice is the Palladium (approved for wheel bearings) or Mobil 1 Synthetic, or ---- take your pick.

One ?typo above, you listed NLGI #1 for wheel bearings the book specifies NLGI #2 (unless you live in Siberia).

There's dozens of tips for all that service you plan if you haven't yet read through the FAQs and do some searches. One quick tip, remember to open the block drain on the left side of the block when you do your cooling system flush. Some people like to also remove the Thermostat, put the housing back
on, then do the flush. Replace the Thermostat (with OEM/Toyota part) if it's the original or aftermarket even if it appears to be working correctly.

When you have the throttle body and valve cover off is a good time to replace the Heat Control Valve on the firewall. Also a good time to replace
the PHH (Pesky Heater Hose, do a search if you don't know).

One way to go about it:

Remove heat control valve (replace on reassembly)
Remove Throttle Body (opportunity to clean out all the small (and large) ports, replace throttle body gasket)
While Throttle Body is off is a good time to remove and clean the IAC valve pintle and the IAC port (need to replace the IAC valve O ring)
Remove Valve cover (give you more room to work, then clean valve cover oil baffle internally (varnish/sludge can build up inside),
replace valve cover gasket and tube seals on reassembly)
Replace all heater and bypass hoses (including the PHH)
Cover the engine harness with heat protective sleeve (a split sleeve with velcro works well) where it's runs close to the EGR pipe (be gentle when moving the harness as there may already be damage internally). If the harness has drooped ensure it's clamped to the firewall correctly.
Remove and clean the EGR valve while you're there (or block it off as some people do if you don't have annual inspections)
Clean the EGR port/tunnel in the upper intake plenum (difficult while still attached to the engine but some carbon/sludge/varnish can be removed)

If you really want to get into it, remove the upper intake to clean it completely then replace all the vacuum hoses/components on the underside

Good time also to then replace the fuel filter

The previous owner removed the rear heater and subsequent pipes. I plan on replacing majority of hoses. I do have a replacement fuel filter to work on, replacement ignition system, was going to replace the PCV while I had the valve cover off. I’ll inspect the EGR while I’m in there. I have pressure tape for the harness and spiral wrap. Lots of maintenance to do.

The vehicle is a 96 LX450.

 

[bicycleagent003]

Valvoline Palladium is also what I use. It works great and is easy to find.

 

[BILT4ME]

Valvoline Palladium for the Birfields and driveshaft slip yokes.

Lucas Red-N-Tacky 2 for all wheel bearings, u-joints.

Both available at FLAPS.

Other driveline parts can be purchased from:
CruiserTeq (Cruiser Outfitters)
partsouq.com
Local dealership
Ourisman Toyota

 

[alia176]

The pcv doesn't need to be replaced, simply clean it with brake spray cleaner and make sure it jiggles. The pcv rubber grommet will be rock hard so I'd replace that.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

The pcv doesn't need to be replaced, simply clean it with brake spray cleaner and make sure it jiggles. The pcv rubber grommet will be rock hard so I'd replace that.

Pretty sure if you buy the pcv valve it comes with the grommet and is less than $8. The grommet by its self is around $5.

 

[ajax1]

I have used the above and another vavoline one that says ford mercury moly.moly on the knuckle or trunnion bearings. I use moly in the driveshafts and ujoints as well. Napa house wheel bearing grease, for the bearings in the hubs.

 

[BeardedBaldy]

Castrol spheerol lmm for hubs and cv joints.
Castrol heavy duty general purpose (blue lithium) for wheel bearings and everything else.
That is what i use on my customers and my personal wagon.

As said above though, any grease is better than no grease!

 

[jonheld]

FWIW, I stopped stocking different greases about 20 years ago. I use Amsoil moly grease for everything. And I mean everything...

https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-nlgi-2-100-synthetic-polymeric-off-road-grease-gpor2/

 

[mudgudgeon]

Search for "LMM Grease" at Oriellys shows two products at the top of the list