- Thread starter
- #21
Thanks for the replies guys. I'll check the drums and cylinders tomorrow when I have a chance. Hopefully they just need to be adjusted.
Greyscale's Pig
- Thread starter Greyscale
- Start date
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PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Nice Pig, a '78! Does (or did) it have A/C?
- Thread starter
- #23
No A/C that I know of. I wouldn't really use it anyways.
My work on the brakes has been slow since I can't seem to figure out how to get the drums off, and trying to fiddle with the adjusters through the tiny access holes got me nowhere. The brakes do seem to be working better, but are still not what i'm comfortable with.
Took it for a short drive yesterday down to the beach near my house. The steering defiantly needs some love and I might work on that in the meantime.
- Thread starter
- #25
Finally had the time and motivation to get at it again, along with figuring out a safe place to jack up the rear.
Started tearing things apart yesterday. Got the cylinders disconnected from the outside, sprayed everything down with a liberal amount of rust penetrating spray, and started hitting the drums with a 2lb hammer. Didn't get anything to budge after a few hours of wrenching and tapping away on the drums, so I cleaned up and went inside. Did a little on what other people had done and figured out that, yes, you really do have to wail on them to get 'em to budge.
Today I went at it after getting off work. Put on some eye and hearing protection, doused the studs and hub in spray again, and really started wailing away. I'd give the drum a good solid whack with the hammer, turn it a little, and repeat. After about 10 minutes of this the drum popped right off. The other side went even faster once I knew what to do. After getting both drums off this is what i'm left with:
Passenger:
Driver:
Looks like a few of the cylinders are frozen up, and everything else looks pretty worn. After doing some reading i'm tempted to swap it over to discs.
Started tearing things apart yesterday. Got the cylinders disconnected from the outside, sprayed everything down with a liberal amount of rust penetrating spray, and started hitting the drums with a 2lb hammer. Didn't get anything to budge after a few hours of wrenching and tapping away on the drums, so I cleaned up and went inside. Did a little on what other people had done and figured out that, yes, you really do have to wail on them to get 'em to budge.
Today I went at it after getting off work. Put on some eye and hearing protection, doused the studs and hub in spray again, and really started wailing away. I'd give the drum a good solid whack with the hammer, turn it a little, and repeat. After about 10 minutes of this the drum popped right off. The other side went even faster once I knew what to do. After getting both drums off this is what i'm left with:
Passenger:
Driver:
Looks like a few of the cylinders are frozen up, and everything else looks pretty worn. After doing some reading i'm tempted to swap it over to discs.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Believe it or not Drums are more efficient. And I know I will hear s*** about it.
Thanks Bob.
Thanks Bob.
Duel cylinders are a pain, but when set up and adjusted right, good brakes. I'm on the fence, about drum or disc. too many variables. Cost for parts, cost to have done, etc. What all to replace ( while you're in there ) can of worms.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Chris, I knew I would get a JAB. Do a little research and you might be surprised. Just cause New vehicles have 4 wheel discs doesn't mean anything. GM (Government Motors) puts them on everything. 75 percent or more of your braking is the front wheels balance in rear. And pads can be effected but overheating. Ever hear that happen with Shoes?
Thanks Bob.
. Do a little research and you might be surprised. Just cause New vehicles have 4 wheel discs doesn't mean anything. GM (Government Motors) puts them on everything. 75 percent or more of your braking is the front wheels balance in rear. And pads can be effected but overheating. Ever hear that happen with Shoes?Thanks Bob.
Chris, I knew I would get a JAB
You set yourself up and I couldn't resist. Bahaha.
Finally had the time and motivation to get at it again, along with figuring out a safe place to jack up the rear.
Started tearing things apart yesterday. .. After doing some reading i'm tempted to swap it over to discs.
Ah, at least it's good to see the truck has been well maintained.
I'd keep drums in back with discs in front, despite all of the hard work and mess you've encountered.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Ah, at least it's good to see the truck has been well maintained.
I'd keep drums in back with discs in front, despite all of the hard work and mess you've encountered.
That is what Toyota did '76 and later...
- Thread starter
- #33
Parts are ordered. Going to stick with drums for the time being. If I end up rebuilding the drive train in the future i'll probably swap over.
Also ordered a new steering stabilizer and front shock mounts. Just have to get my hands on a welder now.
Also ordered a new steering stabilizer and front shock mounts. Just have to get my hands on a welder now.
- Thread starter
- #34
Got a pile of parts earlier this week:
Painted the drums, cleaned up the backing plate and hubs, and put everything together:
Adjusted the cylinders, bled the whole system until the fluid ran clear and air free for a while, and...
...
...
The brakes still don't work.
I'm starting to get pissed off at this thing. Along with my brake issues, a few of the rust spots on the driver's side seem to be getting much worse. Starting to wish I had spent my money on something else.
Painted the drums, cleaned up the backing plate and hubs, and put everything together:
Adjusted the cylinders, bled the whole system until the fluid ran clear and air free for a while, and...
...
...
The brakes still don't work.
I'm starting to get pissed off at this thing. Along with my brake issues, a few of the rust spots on the driver's side seem to be getting much worse. Starting to wish I had spent my money on something else.
I get those feelings every few months. My advise, either work through it and enjoy it or sell now, before you really dump a ton of money in it. I look at mine as more of a hobby, than a vehicle I need to use. I find encouragement from some of the guys that spent many years, working and spending on it, when possible.
Any vehicle this old will have the same headaches and be a money pit, so pick your poison. Hope you work through it and keep enjoying a great hobby!
I know you didn't ask for any advise, just wanted you to know, we're all in the same boat.
Any vehicle this old will have the same headaches and be a money pit, so pick your poison. Hope you work through it and keep enjoying a great hobby!
I know you didn't ask for any advise, just wanted you to know, we're all in the same boat.
- Thread starter
- #36
I'm just venting a bit, there's an event in a few weeks I was hoping to have it drivable by.
Once I get the kinks worked out i'm sure i'll be feeling much better about it. Other then the body rust and brakes, everything else on the truck is in pretty good condition.
Edit: I just went out and sprayed down all the major rust spots with a rust converting spray/primer. Now the truck is covered in black spots and streaks, but I feel better. Maybe i'll just sand the whole thing and rattle can it black.
Once I get the kinks worked out i'm sure i'll be feeling much better about it. Other then the body rust and brakes, everything else on the truck is in pretty good condition.
Edit: I just went out and sprayed down all the major rust spots with a rust converting spray/primer. Now the truck is covered in black spots and streaks, but I feel better. Maybe i'll just sand the whole thing and rattle can it black.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #38
Haven't checked the booster, but if it was out wouldn't the peddle be harder to press and not easier?
Pumping the brakes results in some pressure, so there might still be air in the system somewhere? Would a residual valve help at all?
Pumping the brakes results in some pressure, so there might still be air in the system somewhere? Would a residual valve help at all?
- Thread starter
- #39
I still own this thing and poke around on it occasionally. Although I have significantly less money then I did last year. The truck spends most of it's time taking up the majority of my garage, which the SO hates.
Fired her up for the first time in quite a few months today. Was going to take it for a short drive, but the lack of a stable idle nixed that. Found and fixed a leaking fitting in the fuel regulator. Right now i'm trying to track down the cause of the rough idle. It runs alright with the accelerator pushed down, but otherwise surges, chokes a few times, and dies. It's running a Weber carb and been desmogged.
Other then that I keep poking away at the rust. Sanding down what I can, and chipping off the rest. I seem to have the bulk of it at bay for now.
The rear window has also completely froze up, and the electric control won't work. Any way to get it down manually so I can rebuild the motor or replace the gear?
I've started seeing this as a 10 year project to fully get it where I want it. I wish I had more time and money to throw at it, but you work with what you have. It's a good lesson in patience and trial and error.
Fired her up for the first time in quite a few months today. Was going to take it for a short drive, but the lack of a stable idle nixed that. Found and fixed a leaking fitting in the fuel regulator. Right now i'm trying to track down the cause of the rough idle. It runs alright with the accelerator pushed down, but otherwise surges, chokes a few times, and dies. It's running a Weber carb and been desmogged.
Other then that I keep poking away at the rust. Sanding down what I can, and chipping off the rest. I seem to have the bulk of it at bay for now.
The rear window has also completely froze up, and the electric control won't work. Any way to get it down manually so I can rebuild the motor or replace the gear?
I've started seeing this as a 10 year project to fully get it where I want it. I wish I had more time and money to throw at it, but you work with what you have. It's a good lesson in patience and trial and error.
