Greenville, SC FJ40 Engine Swap - Need Help Finding a Mechanic (1 Viewer)

pb4ugo

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Ok, 1st thing is who knows what the po has done to the stk wiring harness. So I can reference what might still be there and how it should be hooked up to work. 1st, the distributor needs 12 volt supplied when the key is turned to the on position. Typically stk fj40 this would be supplied by a blk wire with a yellow stripe. You could probably find another source as long as it's hot only when ING switch is turned to the on position. This wire is connected to the BAT terminal on the dist cap. Now to the solenoid. With the small terminals facing you on the solenoid, the big terminal on left should go to the battery, and the 1 on the right goes to the starter. The small "S" terminal gets power when the key is turned to START position only, and activates the starter. In the stk fj40 harness this wire would be a blk wire with a white stripe. The "I" terminal should not be used. It's used for a points ingnition. Hope this helps.
DO you have a continuity tester/test light?

Adding HEI is not going to make it not crank over. If you installed the dist correctly, on TDC compression stroke on #1 cylndr it will run with some timing adjustments.
 

Southeast Overland

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Thanks for the recommendation. I went to their website. Do they do any service work? I see they sell and install accessories but didn’t see where they do repairs.
We definitely do all types of service work. We're closed on the weekends, but give us a holler Monday morning and we can talk. 864-280-4238
 
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Had a chance to work on it a little today. It definitely looks like something is messed up with the wiring. It hasn't been the starter or the solenoid causing it to not crank now. There is something sapping the battery. The battery that was in it when I bought it in April was only a year old when I had to replace it in July. Now the brand new battery I bought in July is dead as can be. We cleaned up some of the wiring today and was able to get the motor to turn over (a little). Then the battery completely died and will not take a charge (just like the other one).
Any ideas on what is causing this? My brother thinks it may be the ground wire coming off the negative post. I am going to replace that tomorrow possibly.
 
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Ok, I'm a bit tardy coming to this party. If you wanted to mate your 350 engine to a stock 3 speed tranny and transfer-case, here's some of what the cost might be:
1. My adapter and related parts, ebay #264275501163
2. My rear mount, ebay #264304627852
3. My FREE 3 speed transmission (you pay postage)
4. My 3 speed floor shifter (not on ebay yet, have 3, about 100 bucks each)
5. My special Chevota clutch (never on ebay, $262.00)
6. Front motor mounts, only set I have promised to Kevos37 here on mud, I'll see if he still needs them.
7. 168 tooth 11" flywheel, source locally- - -easy deal.

Next, if you wanted to attempt this conversion yourself (as has been suggested many times above), then go to the Downey Off Road link here on Mud and print out a copy of the Downey V8 installation instructions, study, do!!!!!
I am still working to get the current setup working again but I’m definitely looking at a conversion in the near future. I acquired a 2wd SM465 yesterday. So now I have a SBC 350 and a 2wd SM465. I’m picking up an FJ40 rear axle this week too. Do you offer the adapter that would be needed to mate the SM465 to whatever is the best option of a transfer case?
 
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Are you planning to keep the dana 20 case with a 465 and keeping a centered rearend? If you want to keep a dana case and centered rearend there are really 2 manufacturers to consider AA and Novak. I've done the conversion w/ a 420/ dana 20 t/case and a centered rearend. The main thing you have to keep an eye on is the drive shaft angle. The 40s wheel base is only 90". So the length of the drive line, tranny & t/case, is critical, along with engine placement. The centered t/case output is much higher than an offset t/case output. Looking at your pics, the po did some things to help out the driveshaft angle and adapting the centered driveline. 1st he rotated the pinion up and has it pointing at the t/case output. When setup like this a double cardon joint has to be used, which he did. It's the dual ujoint yoke at the t/case. 2nd, looking at the rear spring plates, I can tell he moved the rearend back a couple of inches. If you look at the plate the stk center pin hole is not being used, and he drilled a new hole in the plate where the nut and stud poke thru. This helps with the drive shaft angle. Novak and AA offer a plate design adapters which is short, but the main shaft in the tranny has to be replaced. I think those kits state that it doesn't matter if the trannys are 2wd or 4wd. Do you ever plan on adding a suspension lift to your 40? This would also effect the driveshaft angles too.
I’ve acquired a lot of the parts like your drivetrain. Is it probably better to find a 3 speed Toyota transfer case? I’d have a SBC to SM465 to “a t case” to “rear end”. I’m picking up a 1972 rear end this week so is the 3 speed case the best option? This would bring it back to having an offset rear diff.
 

pb4ugo

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I’ve acquired a lot of the parts like your drivetrain. Is it probably better to find a 3 speed Toyota transfer case? I’d have a SBC to SM465 to “a t case” to “rear end”. I’m picking up a 1972 rear end this week so is the 3 speed case the best option? This would bring it back to having an offset rear diff.
Here's a link to info on 3 and 4 speed one piece transfercases. I always like referencing this article, cause it has a pic of me on a 1st place run on the obstacle course at the Indy Four Wheel and Offroad Jamboree. I was running a 350 SBC with stk 4 speed and tranfercase and a lockrite in the rear. It was just a trail beater.

T-Case Tech

I don't really have a recommendation on T/case or drive lines, it all depends on your needs and use. The link that pjohnson referenced looks interesting. My current driveline has evolved thru the yrs/decades for my needs and use of the vehicle. It's a street friendly trail rig. In my case, I always seem to find the next weak link. When I find it, I also try to figure out if I can improve on it, plus gain a mechanical advantage in doing so. As I mentioned, I ran a sbc/stk 4speed & tcase. Then a 1st gen lockrite locker. I ran that for 10yrs or more, then I installed 4.88 gearing, Detroit locker and a frt ARB. Later was the sm420/dana 18 t/case and 36"tires. I went Dana 18 case cause it was a Cast Iron case and had an offset rear output , and I had broken several FJ40 cases with sbc's and bbc's. The dana 18case had a lower 2.46:1 low range and they were basically free. The SM420 was $100, adapter $500. I broke a couple 18 cases too but they didn't split in 1/2 like a toy case. Finally, I adapted a dana 20 case where the 18 case was, to have center rear output. The jeep 18 and 20 cases had the same bolt pattern. I figured out how to adapt 2.46:1 gearing into the dana 20, and had a true twin stick t/case. Each stick operates the frt and rearend individually. I centered the 40's rear end/ 3rd member by using parts off a Mini truck rear. IMO, offset rear output t/cases suck for my needs. They re fine for moderate wheeling and street use. My street Cruiser has a sbc/NV4500 5 speed and a stk 40 t/case.

Keep in mind swapping to a chev motor wont fix your electrical problems and you will have fabrication, welding and will be buying a bunch of parts to make the swap. That's why I mentioned earlier, keeping the installed AMC engine and finding a J**p CJ T18 trans/dana 20 t/case, if you nave the correct bellhousing. Your rear is already centered, so there would be minimal alterations to get it to fit. The T18/dana20 case is a solid unit. You could center the stk 72 fj 40 rear using the mini truck rear for parts.
 
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Ok, I'm a bit tardy coming to this party. If you wanted to mate your 350 engine to a stock 3 speed tranny and transfer-case, here's some of what the cost might be:
1. My adapter and related parts, ebay #264275501163
2. My rear mount, ebay #264304627852
3. My FREE 3 speed transmission (you pay postage)
4. My 3 speed floor shifter (not on ebay yet, have 3, about 100 bucks each)
5. My special Chevota clutch (never on ebay, $262.00)
6. Front motor mounts, only set I have promised to Kevos37 here on mud, I'll see if he still needs them.
7. 168 tooth 11" flywheel, source locally- - -easy deal.

Next, if you wanted to attempt this conversion yourself (as has been suggested many times above), then go to the Downey Off Road link here on Mud and print out a copy of the Downey V8 installation instructions, study, do!!!!!
I am doing a swap. Do you still have those motor mounts or did you sell them? Thanks.
 
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Messages
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Here's a link to info on 3 and 4 speed one piece transfercases. I always like referencing this article, cause it has a pic of me on a 1st place run on the obstacle course at the Indy Four Wheel and Offroad Jamboree. I was running a 350 SBC with stk 4 speed and tranfercase and a lockrite in the rear. It was just a trail beater.

T-Case Tech

I don't really have a recommendation on T/case or drive lines, it all depends on your needs and use. The link that pjohnson referenced looks interesting. My current driveline has evolved thru the yrs/decades for my needs and use of the vehicle. It's a street friendly trail rig. In my case, I always seem to find the next weak link. When I find it, I also try to figure out if I can improve on it, plus gain a mechanical advantage in doing so. As I mentioned, I ran a sbc/stk 4speed & tcase. Then a 1st gen lockrite locker. I ran that for 10yrs or more, then I installed 4.88 gearing, Detroit locker and a frt ARB. Later was the sm420/dana 18 t/case and 36"tires. I went Dana 18 case cause it was a Cast Iron case, and I had broken several FJ40 cases with sbc's and bbc's. The dana 18case had a lower 2.46:1 low range and they were basically free. The SM420 was $100, adapter $500. I broke a couple 18 cases too but they didn't split in 1/2 like a toy case. Finally, I adapted a dana 20 case where the 18 case was, to have center rear output. The jeep 18 and 20 cases had the same bolt pattern. I figured out how to adapt 2.46:1 gearing into the dana 20, and had a true twin stick t/case. Each stick operates the frt and rearend individually. I centered the 40's rear end/ 3rd member by using parts off a Mini truck rear. IMO, offset rear output t/cases suck for my needs. They re fine for moderate wheeling and street use. My street Cruiser has a sbc/NV4500 5 speed and a stk 40 t/case.

Keep in mind swapping to a chev motor wont fix your electrical problems and you will have fabrication, welding and will be buying a bunch of parts to make the swap. That's why I mentioned earlier, keeping the installed AMC engine and finding a J**p CJ T18 trans/dana 20 t/case, if you nave the correct bellhousing. Your rear is already centered, so there would be minimal alterations to get it to fit. The T18/dana20 case is a solid unit. You could center the stk 72 fj 40 rear using the mini truck rear for parts.
Thanks for the info. I didn’t see an email that you had replied so I’m late getting back. I think I’m gonna go with something closer to your street Cruiser. I’m going with the 350 to a rebuilt SM465 to the3 speed case to a 1972 rear axle I just picked up. I have talked to Southeast Overland and plan to have them do the swap for me. I have told them that I would like to rewire it while everything was out.

I’ll check out the t case link. Thanks again.
 
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I appreciate everyone’s feedback on this thread. I dropped her off at Southeast Overland this evening for the drive train swap. It’s going SBC 350 to SM465 to AA to Toyota 3 speed case to an FJ40 rear end.
I’m looking forward to adding pics when they get it completed.
 

Bryanseye

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I appreciate everyone’s feedback on this thread. I dropped her off at Southeast Overland this evening for the drive train swap. It’s going SBC 350 to SM465 to AA to Toyota 3 speed case to an FJ40 rear end.
I’m looking forward to adding pics when they get it completed.
Sooo, it isnt done to come ride with us this weekend? 😉
 
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I’ve just had the Jeep motor’s top end cleaned up with all new gaskets. Had some electrical work done too. Gonna clean up the fuel system and put her up for sale.
 
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I’ve just had the Jeep motor’s top end cleaned up with all new gaskets. Had some electrical work done too. Gonna clean up the fuel system and put her up for sale.
Dang, I'm sorry to here that didn't work out. It seems you've never had a chance to enjoy an Fj40 for what it is. GLWS
 

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