Does it matter if the SM465 is 2wd or 4wd? It looks like AA has an adapter for most splines.As mentioned, get the wiring sorted out to prevent potential fire. The rear axle needs some safety fixes that aren't hard to correct. A mini truck rear is not a bad thing and it works with the Dana tcase. Swapping to a SBC and SM465 with the Dana would be pretty straightforward and a dependable set up.
Thanks for the advice. Hopefully Trollhole can come by and give some advice too. I hate that it is just sitting in the garage.As mentioned, get the wiring sorted out to prevent potential fire. The rear axle needs some safety fixes that aren't hard to correct. A mini truck rear is not a bad thing and it works with the Dana tcase. Swapping to a SBC and SM465 with the Dana would be pretty straightforward and a dependable set up.
I doubt I would lift it with the current drivetrain. If I got the Chevy in there with an FJ rear axle I might would. I’ve got a lead on a 4 speed FJ transmission/transfer case and an FJ rear end. I just need to get the current setup operational for now.Are you planning to keep the dana 20 case with a 465 and keeping a centered rearend? If you want to keep a dana case and centered rearend there are really 2 manufacturers to consider AA and Novak. I've done the conversion w/ a 420/ dana 20 t/case and a centered rearend. The main thing you have to keep an eye on is the drive shaft angle. The 40s wheel base is only 90". So the length of the drive line, tranny & t/case, is critical, along with engine placement. The centered t/case output is much higher than an offset t/case output. Looking at your pics, the po did some things to help out the driveshaft angle and adapting the centered driveline. 1st he rotated the pinion up and has it pointing at the t/case output. When setup like this a double cardon joint has to be used, which he did. It's the dual ujoint yoke at the t/case. 2nd, looking at the rear spring plates, I can tell he moved the rearend back a couple of inches. If you look at the plate the stk center pin hole is not being used, and he drilled a new hole in the plate where the nut and stud poke thru. This helps with the drive shaft angle. Novak and AA offer a plate design adapters which is short, but the main shaft in the tranny has to be replaced. I think those kits state that it doesn't matter if the trannys are 2wd or 4wd. Do you ever plan on adding a suspension lift to your 40? This would also effect the driveshaft angles too.
I can’t figure out the wiring to even get it to crank now. I know I have the correct starter on. When you turn the switch, it makes this horrible noise. My brother said it was coming from the solenoid, not the starter. Months ago when it would crank, it would bog down when it got up to temp. That was the original problem. Now since I have added the HEI distributor, I can’t get it to even crank. I need somebody that knows Jeeps to get this thing running right again. Somebody that knows HEI distributors and the associated wiring.I have owned a Wagoneer that is my Jeep experience. Those wire nuts on the wiring would drive me nuts. You need spark and fuel and compression to run. Let's go back to the basics. You have it turning over ? You have the fuel system so that it is not pouring fuel into the engine? You have spark ? Do you own a multimeter/test light ? You need to buy a decent crimper and terminals and fix some of the wiring. The Jeep engine will do fine off road. You don't need a Jeep mechanic as much as you need the wiring sorted. Wiring is not really hard but is time consuming to do.
Thanks. For now, I think I’m gonna leave it like it is and just get it running again. I appreciate the info on those parts.Ok, I'm a bit tardy coming to this party. If you wanted to mate your 350 engine to a stock 3 speed tranny and transfer-case, here's some of what the cost might be:
1. My adapter and related parts, ebay #264275501163
2. My rear mount, ebay #264304627852
3. My FREE 3 speed transmission (you pay postage)
4. My 3 speed floor shifter (not on ebay yet, have 3, about 100 bucks each)
5. My special Chevota clutch (never on ebay, $262.00)
6. Front motor mounts, only set I have promised to Kevos37 here on mud, I'll see if he still needs them.
7. 168 tooth 11" flywheel, source locally- - -easy deal.
Next, if you wanted to attempt this conversion yourself (as has been suggested many times above), then go to the Downey Off Road link here on Mud and print out a copy of the Downey V8 installation instructions, study, do!!!!!
Give @Southeast Overland a call. They are a good balance of Cruiser love and Jeep knowledgeGetting back to my original question in this tread, but from a different angle now, can anybody recommend a good Jeep mechanic here in the upstate of SC? I’m not gonna do the engine swap now. I just want to get my current setup running good again. It’s been sitting in my garage since June. I’ve git to get it running good again. Any recommendations on good Jeep mechanics will be appreciated. I can’t do the work myself. Thanks!