Greenville, SC FJ40 Engine Swap - Need Help Finding a Mechanic (1 Viewer)

[SC Forester]

Yes. That should be the port for the return line. There should be a hole in the floor near there to feed the line thru. The might be a metal line that ran down the pass frame rail to the engine compartment.

Got a filter with a return port and some fuel line. I was hoping to get to that today but worked on the starter all day.
My brother came over to help and identified thatbis the solenoid making the grinding buzzing noise. We rewired it, clean up the ground, and tested it. The solenoid is getting power but apparently not enough to run the starter. I have a single 12 volt wire going to the HEI distributor. That cleaned up the giant mess of wires that were in there when I bought it. Everything I see says that I just wire the ignition wire to the S terminal. The other terminal, the I, is used if you are using a coil and resistor. I got rid of all that when installing the HEI distributor. Do you have any clue what I am doing wrong?

 

[pb4ugo]

Ok, 1st thing is who knows what the po has done to the stk wiring harness. So I can reference what might still be there and how it should be hooked up to work. 1st, the distributor needs 12 volt supplied when the key is turned to the on position. Typically stk fj40 this would be supplied by a blk wire with a yellow stripe. You could probably find another source as long as it's hot only when ING switch is turned to the on position. This wire is connected to the BAT terminal on the dist cap. Now to the solenoid. With the small terminals facing you on the solenoid, the big terminal on left should go to the battery, and the 1 on the right goes to the starter. The small "S" terminal gets power when the key is turned to START position only, and activates the starter. In the stk fj40 harness this wire would be a blk wire with a white stripe. The "I" terminal should not be used. It's used for a points ingnition. Hope this helps.

 

[pjohnson]

Get an SM465 to put between your SBC 350 and the Dana transfer case. Based on your stated usage, the mini-truck rear end will work just fine. The Dana 20 is as good (maybe better) than the stock Toyota one piece transfer.

 

[pb4ugo]

Imo, the dana 20 is better. It has more possibilites, and center rear output is stronger setup. The dana 300 is better though. Unfortunately, the offset 40 rear limits driveline options.

 

[pjohnson]

the offset 40 rear limits driveline options

??
He already has a Toyota centered rear axle, no?

 

[SC Forester]

??
He already has a Toyota centered rear axle, no?

Was told it was a Ford rear axle. Would that matter?

 

[pjohnson]

Was told it was a Ford rear axle. Would that matter?

That wouldn’t make sense. If so, your rear wheels and front wheels are different bolt patterns. The pic looked Toyota to me, but more pics would confirm.

 

[pb4ugo]

The Dana 20 is as good (maybe better) than the stock Toyota one piece transfer.

If 1 end is offset the other should be too.

 

[SC Forester]

If 1 end is offset the other should be too.

The front is offset and looks like the Toyota axle. The rear is centered. The guy I bought it from said it was a Ford rear end. I’ll look to see if I see any kind of casting on it.

 

[pb4ugo]

The front is offset and looks like the Toyota axle. The rear is centered. The guy I bought it from said it was a Ford rear end. I’ll look to see if I see any kind of casting on it.

The frt is a 40 frt end, a stk 40 rear pumpkin would be offset the same as the frt. I'm pretty sure your current rear end is a Toyota pickup, which would be centered. The pinion flange and u joint and the look of the housing and pumpkin looks Toyota. I cant tell if its pre 85 or post 1985. Maybe a pic further back, and one from the back side would help. As pjohnson mentioned it's an ok rear. It's just a smaller ring and pinion.

 

[SC Forester]

The frt is a 40 frt end, a stk 40 rear pumpkin would be offset the same as the frt. I'm pretty sure your current rear end is a Toyota pickup, which would be centered. The pinion flange and u joint and the look of the housing and pumpkin looks Toyota. I cant tell if its pre 85 or post 1985. Maybe a pic further back, and one from the back side would help. As pjohnson mentioned it's an ok rear. It's just a smaller ring and pinion.

Here’s some views from the back. Does it still look like a mini truck rear end. The emergency brake is wired up not like any Toyota I’ve ever seen.

 

[SC Forester]

If this is the Toyota mini truck rear end to the Dana case then I might go the 350 to SM465 route.

 

[pb4ugo]

If this is the Toyota mini truck rear end to the Dana case then I might go the 350 to SM465 route.

It's looks like a mini truck rear. Looks like someone used sketchy parts to install it. Does it have stacked washers between the nuts and the U bolt plates? And the U bolts aren't right for the axle diameter and the u bolt plates are for a larger axle diameter. The ubolts were probably from the 40 along with the plates. The exhaust looks strange and in the way for suspension articulation.

So if you go 350/ sm465. What transfer case do you want to use?

 

[SC Forester]

It's looks like a mini truck rear. Looks like someone used sketchy parts to install it. Does it have stacked washers between the nuts and the U bolt plates? And the U bolts aren't right for the axle diameter and the u bolt plates are for a larger axle diameter. The ubolts were probably from the 40 along with the plates. The exhaust looks strange and in the way for suspension articulation.

So if you go 350/ sm465. What transfer case do you want to use?

It's looks like a mini truck rear. Looks like someone used sketchy parts to install it. Does it have stacked washers between the nuts and the U bolt plates? And the U bolts aren't right for the axle diameter and the u bolt plates are for a larger axle diameter. The ubolts were probably from the 40 along with the plates. The exhaust looks strange and in the way for suspension articulation.

So if you go 350/ sm465. What transfer case do you want to use?

I think I was drunk on seeing a rust free, running (at the time) FJ40 that I made a bad decision to buy without knowing what it was.
Should I just pull everything out and sell that Jeep motor and drivetrain? Then replace with Chevy and original FJ parts? I really have no clue what to do at this point. It’s paid for so I’d like to keep it but I don’t know what to do now.
If this was your rig, what would you do? I still have to figure out the starter and the bogging down as well.

 

[Trollhole]

Wow what a hot mess. Hey I know we are probably way out of your budget. My ocd would be in overdrive on that wiring. That being said where are you in Greenville? How far from me? Maybe if im in town this weekend I could pop out and at least mark some things and give you some pointers on what to do. I think you shouldn't worry about how it drives and what mods need to be made to the drive train before you just getting it wired correctly and it will run reliably and won't let the smoke out of the harness. It does look like it still has most of the factory harness in it.

You also need to join the local cruiser club in town. Upstate Cruisers www.upstatecruisers.com SC- Upstate Cruisers We have monthly meetings and all kinds of wheeling events.

 

[Trollhole]

Also I have another customer that has a Dodge motor in his 40 so it's not a bad thing. It can work as long as it was done well. We took it out to Colorado for a couple weeks and it was flawless on the trails.

 

[SC Forester]

Wow what a hot mess. Hey I know we are probably way out of your budget. My ocd would be in overdrive on that wiring. That being said where are you in Greenville? How far from me? Maybe if im in town this weekend I could pop out and at least mark some things and give you some pointers on what to do. I think you shouldn't worry about how it drives and what mods need to be made to the drive train before you just getting it wired correctly and it will run reliably and won't let the smoke out of the harness. It does look like it still has most of the factory harness in it.

You also need to join the local cruiser club in town. Upstate Cruisers www.upstatecruisers.com SC- Upstate Cruisers We have monthly meetings and all kinds of wheeling events.

Thanks. I am in Travelers Rest. Any suggestions on what you would do would be awesome.

 

[pb4ugo]

I agree with trollhole. Correct wiring and get it running. If you were to sell it, you wont get much for it not running. Drive line wise parting it out won't get much. I'd probably try to clean things up. PO's do strange stuff. With a minimal budget, your going to have to get your hands dirty and learn some new skills. This site will help you out. Many have started not knowing anything mechanical and end up doing frame off restorations. Yours is not the 1st 40 with a mini truck rearend or a j**p driveline. Swapping out drivelines could be digging a deeper. Fyi, Fixing the rear u bolt issues is not an expensive fix, if you do it. We've seen are really close up pics on certain issues. Can we see pics of the 40 itself? Inside and out.

 

[SC Forester]

I agree with trollhole. Correct wiring and get it running. If you were to sell it, you wont get much for it not running. Drive line wise parting it out won't get much. I'd probably try to clean things up. PO's do strange stuff. With a minimal budget, your going to have to get your hands dirty and learn some new skills. This site will help you out. Many have started not knowing anything mechanical and end up doing frame off restorations. Yours is not the 1st 40 with a mini truck rearend or a j**p driveline. Swapping out drivelines could be digging a deeper. Fyi, Fixing the rear u bolt issues is not an expensive fix, if you do it. We've seen are really close up pics on certain issues. Can we see pics of the 40 itself? Inside and out.

I will get more pics loaded this evening.

 

[SC Forester]

I agree with trollhole. Correct wiring and get it running. If you were to sell it, you wont get much for it not running. Drive line wise parting it out won't get much. I'd probably try to clean things up. PO's do strange stuff. With a minimal budget, your going to have to get your hands dirty and learn some new skills. This site will help you out. Many have started not knowing anything mechanical and end up doing frame off restorations. Yours is not the 1st 40 with a mini truck rearend or a j**p driveline. Swapping out drivelines could be digging a deeper. Fyi, Fixing the rear u bolt issues is not an expensive fix, if you do it. We've seen are really close up pics on certain issues. Can we see pics of the 40 itself? Inside and out.

Lots of pics...