Greenbean and his mod/wish it was a build thread...

[2001LC]

OK so I got the metal guard and plastic guard pressure washed today and pressure washed the front under body.

Pretty sure one of my leaks is the power steering unit. I have a lot of seepage through the lines from the resv which is odd.


Yup it was that kind of day.

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I did however spend some time tackling cleaning the dash and gauge display and repairing two bulbs. Well one I just re-purposed. Moved the seat belt flashing red bulb over to my cruise indicator. The second was for my "D" light. I know a lot of you mentioned to leave it out as it's bright well I'm to OCD to have it not working so I decided to try a smaller bulb I removed from a "new" old stock Honda dash or switch bulb. It was the last "small" bulb I had in my tool box.

It's PERFECT!

Dimmer than all the others... I decided to do this as those bulbs don't have any colored "condoms" on them. They just shine through the colored lens on the display. The pictures show the difference in size of the bulbs but I'll try and show the difference in brightness somehow.

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Also figured out a very easy way to make the felt around the upper column cover look fantastic.

Turn it over! Lol...

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Your going to have a very clean rig when you're done. kudos to you for pay attention to detail.

You said: "seepage through the lines from the resv which is odd" not odd at all. As you saw in earlier post, this is one of the most common leaks in a 100 series.

I like to pull power steering reservoir off and clean really good. There is a screen at the bottom that sometimes is really hard to get clean, others times not so much. I them re-clamp lines with screw clamps and retighten clamps after each cool down, just a bit more each time until seepages stops. I also flush the power steering with M1 MV ATF after cleaning. It really smooth out the steering pump sounds. I find it best to flush three time, once after each 500 miles or so the first time around.

Keep and eye on the power steering boots now, but don't be to quick to call a leak a bit more at first. As seal get cleaned, they'll sometimes stop leaking. If not, try the seal modifier first, it works wonders.

 

[Greenbean]

So at what age and point do I just consider changing the lines?

It's a chilly 30" outside this morning and a few of us will be at Sierra Nevada today so I won't be piddling much...

The weepage off the resv reminds me of what brake master cylinders look like after a while...

I'll get a pic later.


Oh and I did discover I may need to repack the front bearings or purchase and install new ones. There is just a little wiggle at 12-6 on each side, I was thinking about just trying to set the pre-load maybe before tackling the whole shebang. We will see.

 

[2001LC]

So at what age and point do I just consider changing the lines?

It's a chilly 30" outside this morning and a few of us will be at Sierra Nevada today so I won't be piddling much...

The weepage off the resv reminds me of what brake master cylinders look like after a while...

I'll get a pic later.


Oh and I did discover I may need to repack the front bearings or purchase and install new ones. There is just a little wiggle at 12-6 on each side, I was thinking about just trying to set the pre-load maybe before tackling the whole shebang. We will see.

If you can't get seepage to stop or slow to your satisfaction then replace. I found the need to tight clamp, just a bit each time, five or six times before stops. You don't want to just get real tight first time, as you may over tighten and break reservoir nipples. Sometimes reservoir needs to be replace as the nipples get micro cracks that may weep as well. But give it sometime.

 

[2001LC]

Concerns with using synthetic ATF or engine oil, for first time in high millage vehicles.

Synthetic will not break down and deposited gunk, it will actually clean out the gunk slowly over time. Synthetic oils' cleaning effect is why many say never use synthetic oils on high millage, this includes engine, transmission or anything with seals. Old seals covered with gunk dry out and shrink, once gunk is washed away they may end-up leaking. Toyota uses very good seals and once cleaned the oils soaking them will have a rejuvenating effect. Mobil One High Millage (M1HM) engine oil has seal modifiers added that condition seals, swelling them a bit. You can also buy ATP AP-205 re-seal which can be used in place of M1 HM, and can also be used in transmission and power steering. But I'd not be to quick to add any seal modifier, I'd give synthetic oils some time first to work into seals, they may come back on their on.

If the transmission has been regularly flushed it won't be any different then flushing with dexron II or III, VI or IV. Main reason we flush is conventional oils break down losing lubricating ability and leave carbon deposit (gunk) behind.

If transmission has never been flushed, than any type ATF may have some adverse effects. The gunk is holding plates together, washing away and they may fall apart. But that would mean your transmission plates/clutches are failing and held together now by gunk. Other concern is gunk plugging valves & passages. I'd rather find this out now as opposed to 500 miles form nowhere.

You can ease into using synthetic ATF by doing drain and fill. That is just drain pan and refill, takes ~3qt IIRC. Do this every 500 miles or so, or longer intervals to be even gentler. After you've done this maybe 7 times over some period of time, then go-ahead and do a complete 12qt flush.

 

[Greenbean]

Decided to run a constant power from behind the HVAC controls for the XM unit the PO gave me. He already had a stereo shop run the antenna over the back into the roof and all the way to the front so I just got all the wires hid behind the dash and got them out that right side next to the mount.

I didn't want to spend any more money on a fancy in-line power adapter so I broke out my old soldering tools from when I used to be a service technician for a cell phone company and took the ends off to DC power supply and soldered in a ground wire, then power and an inline fuse to match the internal fuse that was in the adapter, just tied it into the cigarette lighter socket under the radio.

The came out really well, I'm thinking about looking into a fancy FM modulator that doesn't use a frequency but will let me go through the 3.5mm output jack right into the back that way I have no cords in front but can still run XM when I want to.

Also found a Toyota Tacoma fog light switch on eBay for pretty cheap so I wired it into the DRLs that way I can turn them off (actually leave them off) and turn them on if/ when I want to, I'll dig through my EDM next week and wire the illumination off of one of the qtr window switches because I know the switch does illuminate but there is no indicator for when there is power through the circuit. No biggie to me.

 

[Greenbean]

Decided to park the LC and set it on stands until my power steering bushings show up. Also have a quote to Beno for sway bar bushings and the like.

Installed my coveted Malkoff dome light! Thing is so bright but had a flickering going on so I decided to check the contacts on the swith, yup dirty and in need of cleaning. Took care of that.

Decided to tear into deep cleaning 101. Did all this before setting it on stands.

Discovered when whoever did the antenna wiring for the XM they crushed through the wire to the metal in over four places under the drivers door sill. Guess I'll wrap it with tape or try and loom it... Not sure yet.

So tomorrow is going to be about 10.00 bucks in quarters at the car wash pressure washing carpet and wheels.
Figured if I have the carpet out might as well do my best to clean it and then let it sun dry for however many days it needs.

(EDIT) I didn't pressure wash this main section. To large for me to handle on my own.

Oh and when the wife is out for the evening I take control of the kitchen sink and wash all my interior bits!
Dawn just makes them look great again.

I ended up taking a Heavy Duty magic eraser to them all and giving them a nice matte finish.

 

[Greenbean]

So I fought a connector for almost 20 minutes under the shift lever because I really wanted to clean whatever sugary beverage was spilled on the shifter. Then I realized I forgot to release the lock bar on the bottom of the connector. Doh! You have to release these two pins if you want to completely remove your shift knob.

As clean as I'm going to get it.

Made some headway today in getting all the carpet back in. Ended up using my sisters new Rainbow on all the carpeted bits. Took a lot of dirt out.

 

[Greenbean]

Decided to use a three-way switch for my DRLs. I'll use the fog light switch down the road on some other lights.

It's this one I found on Amazon,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001...1479516284&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

Up is constant on, center is off, down is a spring loaded monetary on. I believe this is the same switch that TLC FAQ used as well.

I'm really impressed with it. Took a while to dremel out the opening. Also used a file once I was close because if you really squeeze it in there the momentary won't work.

Also cleaned up the XM wiring for the unit the PO left me. Just went to ACE and got a rubber grommet, drilled a hole in the plastic filler plate there and presto.

I think I'm going to try and make another support liner for the tailgate carpet.

The stuff looks like it's some kind of particle board. The guys at Lowes were awesome and gave me this sheet as it's the protective layer on the plywood bundles they get in. Sweet!

Figured I'd just trace the pattern and use the side cutting bit on the Dremel and see what I can do.

 

[landylover21]

It's always nice to know all that sh*t isn't lurking around in your interior. I remember ripping apart a land rover interior with a mouse infestation combined with dog hair/piss/poop everywhere.

 

[Greenbean]

Lol... Wow!

Really only thing I've found was 6-one dollar bills, an ear bud case, and the CDs in the changer. Sent them all back to the PO.

Afterwards I have about 1.50 in change when removing the carpet. Main reason is I knew some sugary beverage was spilled so I wanted to clean it all up as best I could. I've done this in almost every used car I've purchased.

Rack bushings are here, going to tackle that on Thanksgiving I think. Also have some Royal Brown wheel cleaner coming as I am determined t clean the inside of the wheels as best I can. I got my Leatherique in the mail yesterday but am not in a position yet to remove the plastic on the seats and tackle that.

 

[2001LC]

Lol... Wow!

Really only thing I've found was 6-one dollar bills, an ear bud case, and the CDs in the changer. Sent them all back to the PO.

Afterwards I have about 1.50 in change when removing the carpet. Main reason is I knew some sugary beverage was spilled so I wanted to clean it all up as best I could. I've done this in almost every used car I've purchased.

Rack bushings are here, going to tackle that on Thanksgiving I think. Also have some Royal Brown wheel cleaner coming as I am determined t clean the inside of the wheels as best I can. I got my Leatherique in the mail yesterday but am not in a position yet to remove the plastic on the seats and tackle that.

I've pressure washed floor mats, didn't know it was safe for carpet.

I wasn't sold on Leatherique at first, but now I love it. I've tried a few different approaches with Leatherique. Last time I pre cleaned with Lexol leather cleaner. Also some diluted orange citrus cleaner, being careful not remove dye, for heavier soiled spot. I keep Leatherique on soaking/steaming in the heat of the sun (protecting leather from direct sun light) for 5 days. Once each day applying more Leatherique rejuvenator to the dry spot. Came out really great.

Only thing I've found is lots of dirt. Oh and one container of Colorado home grown. Can't send that back, federal laws you know. Oh well!

 

[Greenbean]

I've pressure washed floor mats, didn't know it was safe for carpet.

I wasn't sold on Leatherique at first, but now I love it. I've tried a few different approaches with Leatherique. Last time I pre cleaned with Lexol leather cleaner. Also some diluted orange citrus cleaner, being careful not remove dye, for heavier soiled spot. I keep Leatherique on soaking/steaming in the heat of the sun (protecting leather from direct sun light) for 5 days. Once each day applying more Leatherique rejuvenator to the dry spot. Came out really great.

Only thing I've found is lots of dirt. Oh and one container of Colorado home grown. Can't send that back, federal laws you know. Oh well!

I need to edit that,

Well I should have mentioned I did pressure wash the mats, and just the rear floor section. Only the carpet side though. So it was heavy as all get out trying to get it back into the Tacoma truck bed after fighting to get it out from the floor mat holders without dropping it. I then realized there was no way I could do this by myself with the largest piece. Caution has to be used otherwise you'll mess up the padding as it's together but easily tears and hangs on stuff.

Now I will say if I had my own pressure washer and a clean place to hang it up and pressure wash it I most certainly would. just the top side of course. Then get a helping hand to lift it onto a rack of sorts to let it dry in the sun. Which would probably take 5-7 days as it took the rear section laying on the driveway in the sun almost 3 complete days to dry. And that was with me flipping it from time to time, again we have shorter days also.

So I decided NOT to try it on the largest main piece. I'm OK I didn't.

Appreciate the Leatherique tips,

I'm sure the driver's seat is toast but I'll try and see what happens. The rear seats were hardly ever used, PO has no grand kids yet. The 3rd row was never used. So I just want to give them what they need and go from there.

I really want to cover the drivers seat with a ballistic type cover but am not sure I want the Coverking Ballistic cloth brand I have on my Tacoma again. They are simple and I like that they have no padding but after only one year the stitching around the driver's left thigh bolster loosened up so I removed it and stitched through the existing holes with nylon thread to help it.

They were only 170.00 via Amazon Prime so not a huge concern.

 

[2001LC]

I need to edit that,

Well I should have mentioned I did pressure wash the mats, and just the rear floor section. Only the carpet side though. So it was heavy as all get out trying to get it back into the Tacoma truck bed after fighting to get it out from the floor mat holders without dropping it. I then realized there was no way I could do this by myself with the largest piece. Caution has to be used otherwise you'll mess up the padding as it's together but easily tears and hangs on stuff.

Now I will say if I had my own pressure washer and a clean place to hang it up and pressure wash it I most certainly would. just the top side of course. Then get a helping hand to lift it onto a rack of sorts to let it dry in the sun. Which would probably take 5-7 days as it took the rear section laying on the driveway in the sun almost 3 complete days to dry. And that was with me flipping it from time to time, again we have shorter days also.

So I decided NOT to try it on the largest main piece. I'm OK I didn't.

Appreciate the Leatherique tips,

I'm sure the driver's seat is toast but I'll try and see what happens. The rear seats were hardly ever used, PO has no grand kids yet. The 3rd row was never used. So I just want to give them what they need and go from there.

I really want to cover the drivers seat with a ballistic type cover but am not sure I want the Coverking Ballistic cloth brand I have on my Tacoma again. They are simple and I like that they have no padding but after only one year the stitching around the driver's left thigh bolster loosened up so I removed it and stitched through the existing holes with nylon thread to help it.

They were only 170.00 via Amazon Prime so not a huge concern.

I found a dry type carpet cleaner at one carwash near me. Stuff works great, but need respirator to use as it burns the nostrils. Just vacuum before and after.

Have you look at these Leather Seat Covers | Custom Leather Interior | Replacement Seat Covers | Lseat.com ~$300 a row for new leather skins. You'll find threads in mud on use and install results.

 

[Greenbean]

I've thought about them, I got real good at using my Sta Kons and cutting hog rings and then using my hog ring pliers years ago recovering some Civic SI seats for one of my Civics. The Sta Kons were the only serious cutting Tool I had that could bite through the rings, and with both hands. Those little rings are some strong steel wire.

I'm not afraid I just need to decide if I want to purchase them and commit. And being winter they would be installed for months anyways so I can wait for now.

 

[landylover21]

Magic erasers work well for stripping the dirt off of leather, and they do a good job of cleaning the pores. You just have to be gentle so you don't abrade the upper surface and then follow with a good conditioner.

In the past on customer vehicles with trashed leather interiors, I'll spray them down with a foaming cleaner like Fast and Foamy, let it sit for thirty seconds and then hit it with a damp magic eraser. I transformed the interior of my old Mercedes from grey back to tan when I had everything pulled out.

Just make sure to follow up with a good leather conditioner and be gentle!

Edit: also, using the blade of an ice scraper to pull against the carpet when it's soaking wet can cut down on the moisture content in the pile by a lot; just leave it on the wall and pull it down the carpet/floor mat/etc.

 

[Greenbean]

I've been using the magic erasers on my interior trim bits to help dull down the shiny parts.

I'm about to take it to the windows with some car wax to see if it will help get rid of some faint acid water spots I have.



On a positive note... I'm also thinking about utilizing my SE flares and thinking and researching some zero offset 16" black steel wheels from ProComp. They might be the cats meow with my stinkin flares.

Determining if I should remove my running boards for this afternoons project.

 

[Greenbean]

So it's been a while with the Holidays and being between agencies I decided to work for UPS as a helper on a truck. That's a good workout, and they pay well all things considered.

So I decided to finally go into my front hubs as when I did the steering rack bushings I noticed just the littlest bit of movement at 12 and 6 I figured I'm going to check on the lock nut do the preload and all that stuff per the FSM but I didn't want to completely go into bearing services yet as the weather's been iffy, freezing cold and then a 60 degree day back to back.

Looks like I'll be calling my dealership to see if I can get some parts overnighted as one of my flat washers was actually a lock washer and one was completely missing on the right side, this is a picture of what the axle nuts look like from the left side and it's obvious lock washer had been used maybe two or three times I'm not sure.

Turns out there was no paper gasket between the hub flange itself. I need to clean up a little bit of RTV silicone, I do have a set of those gaskets though.

The main reason I posted this picture is that I have a 54mm special socket and it fit great over the first nut but it had a hard time sitting square on the 2nd so I decided to remove it and you can see it's got huge gashes cut in it. Looks like they've been hammered on this thing with a screwdriver or a chisel. Argh!

 

[2001LC]

Missing claw washer is one I've never seen, the chisel marks are all to common. Here's some messed up stuff I've seen when pulling wheel hubs apart. Hub flange teeth & snap ring contact surface damaged as well cone washers & snap ring.

 

[Greenbean]

Wow,

I guess sometimes you really never know until you dive into it.

So I fought the driver side for about an hour to get the cone washers off using every trick I could think of with the exception of having the preferred brass punch, I decided to go inside and take a break b/c I was frustrated and I remembered we have a welding supply facility that does custom welding not even one mile from my house so one phone call later and the gentleman called me back and praise the Lord he has no idea why he had it but he had 5/8 inch diameter solid brass rod up to 30" long so I had him to cut me a piece 10" long and he only charged me 15 bucks.

So now for the rest of my Land Cruiser career I have the proper brass drift.

Didn't take me maybe 8 minutes to get the cone washers off of the passenger side with the right tool!

These actually look better but I still have new nuts and lock washers coming in hopefully tomorrow at the local dealership. And a bonus was it had the factory gasket, lol...

Oh I also I found this particular pair of needle-nose pliers to be an unbelievable tool, I acquired these probably 20 years ago when I worked for Honda. They just come in great for loosening hoses that are on stubborn nipples and also retrieving spark plug wires, AND getting loose but stubborn cone washers off.

 

[lugueto]

Malkoff dome light? Is that the same person who does the Surefire and Maglite drop-ins?

If it is, it must be insanely bright. Please post pics, that is interesting lol.