VERY Nice job.......
Green '71 Frame Off Mild Build
- Thread starter srgould41
- Start date
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Looks great, Steve ! Only problem I see is it's so clean underneath ! We'll help you change that in the future !
- Thread starter
- #83
Some more progress.
Added my steering shaft
Here is my twin stick t-case shifter. Terrible pics, sorry. Notice that I cut off the end of this arm and welded it sideways. Had to weld the retaining bolt nut in place.
Here is the other end of that link
The other link for 2-4WD
All of it before assembly in the truck
And in place. The pics from underneath were too hard to see. Here are my handles with Trail Gear knobs. I made them removable to aid in removing the hump, which now requires the gas tank to be moved out of the way to get it off.
The doors and front end sheetmetal are painted with Durabak smooth and ready for topcoat to match the rest of the truck.
My window frames are done.
I will finish painting the topcoat by this weekend and then I can start putting it all back on.
The hump needs to wait until I get my shifter which should be here around Friday I hope.
Added my steering shaft
Here is my twin stick t-case shifter. Terrible pics, sorry. Notice that I cut off the end of this arm and welded it sideways. Had to weld the retaining bolt nut in place.
Here is the other end of that link
The other link for 2-4WD
All of it before assembly in the truck
And in place. The pics from underneath were too hard to see. Here are my handles with Trail Gear knobs. I made them removable to aid in removing the hump, which now requires the gas tank to be moved out of the way to get it off.
The doors and front end sheetmetal are painted with Durabak smooth and ready for topcoat to match the rest of the truck.
My window frames are done.
I will finish painting the topcoat by this weekend and then I can start putting it all back on.
The hump needs to wait until I get my shifter which should be here around Friday I hope.
Steve its been a while since I've checked out your build, looking good. I've just started working on my doors and hardtop now that the cooler weather is coming. You're getting close, in not too long you'll be running around in it. Looking good, keep it up!
Nick
Nick
Looking really good Steve. It's been a while since I've checked in on your build too. I got the cancer on the sides of my tube taken care of. The rear sill is next. I got tired of body work so I went back to the frame and powertrain.
- Thread starter
- #86
Nick, thanks bud. It's a bit further on than my last post, but since my home computer has died I haven't been able to upload pics so I have not posted updates.
I put new glass into my windshield frame this morning. Still need to install the lock spline. All the painting is done except for little things like hinges. My doors are complete including new seals, except for one windows crank that is stripped. Need to replace it. This weekend I plan to install my brake master. I bought the fittings I need to mate the metric lines to a GM master. As soon as I get my brakes done I can start installing the front end sheet metal.
I still need to buy gauges, shocks, drive shafts, and a steering drag link.
Pat, thanks for the nice words. Keep it up, it may seem that the project will never get finished, but it will.
I put new glass into my windshield frame this morning. Still need to install the lock spline. All the painting is done except for little things like hinges. My doors are complete including new seals, except for one windows crank that is stripped. Need to replace it. This weekend I plan to install my brake master. I bought the fittings I need to mate the metric lines to a GM master. As soon as I get my brakes done I can start installing the front end sheet metal.
I still need to buy gauges, shocks, drive shafts, and a steering drag link.
Pat, thanks for the nice words. Keep it up, it may seem that the project will never get finished, but it will.
- Thread starter
- #87
Finished installing my twin sticks, but I have a problem. The 2/4 WD stick moves too easy. It shifts by itself. I think I need to drop the tcase a bit so I can open the top cover and increase the spring pressure on the shift detent ball. I mounted the case so high that I can't get to the top without lowering the back end a ways. Also installed the heaters. Have to install the bypass door cable and the plenum as well as the defroster hoses.
Installed my new master cylinder. Added a proportioning valve. Bled the brakes.
Installed some of the front sheet metal now that the brakes are done.
Installed the rear doors.
Now on to finishing the front wiring.
Have to work on my windshield hinges too. They are frozen. I took them to a machine shop to see if they could press out the pins, but they refused. There is just no easy way to hold it to press the pins out. I am going to soak the hinges and hope they free up so I can use them. Otherwise I need to find replacements.
Installed my new master cylinder. Added a proportioning valve. Bled the brakes.
Installed some of the front sheet metal now that the brakes are done.
Installed the rear doors.
Now on to finishing the front wiring.
Have to work on my windshield hinges too. They are frozen. I took them to a machine shop to see if they could press out the pins, but they refused. There is just no easy way to hold it to press the pins out. I am going to soak the hinges and hope they free up so I can use them. Otherwise I need to find replacements.
- Thread starter
- #88
I put the wiring on hold while I am waiting for some more weatherpak connectors to use on the head light wires. I'll by using relays to power them. I am trying to figure out where the battery will fit. It is just too big. I am going to compare it to Optima batteries to see if they are shorter.
I had an issue with the tcase hi/low shifter being too easy to shift. Here is the fix:
I don't have any pictures of what I did, but it was easy, sort of. I removed the propeller mount from the back of the case, lowered the case about 3" to gain enough room at the top to work on it. After removing the top cover I looked inside. The detent ball is held in by a threaded plug that has a slot in it for a screwdriver which also is used to secure the plug by running a cotter pin through the channel formed by the slot.
So I removed the plug, cut the end of a bolt off that was larger than the spring diameter, yet smaller than the plug. I made it about 1/4" long. I put it on top of the spring and then screwed the plug back in. I had to be very careful not to drop anything inside the case.
It was perfect! I now have the right amount of pressure in each detent to keep the stick in place and not shift by itself. I had just enough space in the screwdriver slot to put a new cotter pin in.
Problem resolved. This was a good opportunity to fix a flaw in my tcase mount too. The mount had no provision to allow oil to drain from the bearing cavity back into the case. I drilled a hole all the way through the mount aligned to the oil return hole then drilled the side facing the case with a series of holes to form a slot on that side for the oil to go down to the drain hole.
My gauges arrived. I'll shoot pics in a bit as I need to get going to my son's Kendo tournement.
I had an issue with the tcase hi/low shifter being too easy to shift. Here is the fix:
I don't have any pictures of what I did, but it was easy, sort of. I removed the propeller mount from the back of the case, lowered the case about 3" to gain enough room at the top to work on it. After removing the top cover I looked inside. The detent ball is held in by a threaded plug that has a slot in it for a screwdriver which also is used to secure the plug by running a cotter pin through the channel formed by the slot.
So I removed the plug, cut the end of a bolt off that was larger than the spring diameter, yet smaller than the plug. I made it about 1/4" long. I put it on top of the spring and then screwed the plug back in. I had to be very careful not to drop anything inside the case.
It was perfect! I now have the right amount of pressure in each detent to keep the stick in place and not shift by itself. I had just enough space in the screwdriver slot to put a new cotter pin in.
Problem resolved. This was a good opportunity to fix a flaw in my tcase mount too. The mount had no provision to allow oil to drain from the bearing cavity back into the case. I drilled a hole all the way through the mount aligned to the oil return hole then drilled the side facing the case with a series of holes to form a slot on that side for the oil to go down to the drain hole.
My gauges arrived. I'll shoot pics in a bit as I need to get going to my son's Kendo tournement.
MarcoPolo
Mud.. it's a life...
coming together nicely Steve.
- Thread starter
- #90
Thanks Marco.
Thats funny, is that a Mico brake to the right of the M/C Booster?
Looks like an adjustable brake proportioning valve to me. What kind of shifter did you get, Steve ? Looking good, man !!
- Thread starter
- #93
The valve to the outside of the master cylinder is a proportioning valve for the rear disk brakes. It's so I can dial down the pressure in the rear so that the front brakes lock up first. I put the hood on this morning and it was hitting that line so I had to bend it a little. Now it doesn't look quite so professional
Looks like an adjustable brake proportioning valve to me. What kind of shifter did you get, Steve ? Looking good, man !!
Alex, I bought a Hurst Sport shifter. There is not a lot to choose from for the 700R4. Most of the shifters are for drag racing and not suited for off roading where you need to shift between reverse and drive quickly. I am not all that happy with the Hurst shifter's feel and it seems to drift past gear selections too easily, but I have not fully completed the install yet. Maybe after I run the engine and test the shifts it might feel better. I might do that this weekend. I need to push the 40 outside and rinse off the layers of dust and grit. It would be a good time to run the engine again.
- Thread starter
- #94
This morning I completed the battery (I had to buy an Optima battery as my old battery was too large to fit) wiring so I can start the engine any time. I marked the hold down rods to cut them and ended up cutting them too short. Seems there was another black mark where the washer sat that fooled me into thinking it was my marker pen line. It's always something. I am waiting for some Weatherpak connectors to show up for the headlight wiring. That will complete the front end wiring.
I also installed the hood this morning with my wife's help. So I should have the front end completed by this weekend.
Next will be the heater fan. I need to change the resister. After that it's on to the insturment panel. I also need to source a drive key for my speed sensor.
I'll try to post some pics in the next day or so.
I also installed the hood this morning with my wife's help. So I should have the front end completed by this weekend.
Next will be the heater fan. I need to change the resister. After that it's on to the insturment panel. I also need to source a drive key for my speed sensor.
I'll try to post some pics in the next day or so.
- Thread starter
- #95
So here are the gauges I picked. The ones on the wood panel are upside down 
The speedo is programmable. I bought the 5291 speed sensor. I'll install it this weekend. I know I need to rotate the parking brake housing to make it fit. I contacted a local speedo shop about a drive key. The guy said they make them when needed and to come on by and he would just give me one. Suuuurrrre. The fuel gauge is a universal one. It will work with the LC sender. That is one reason I picked this line of gauges. Less work installing.
Ordered my steering drag link and pitman arm from Cruiser Outfitters. It will be here in time to install it this Saturday. Kurt just got back from SEMA. As busy as he is catching up he promised the parts would go out today. What a guy and what great service!
The speedo is programmable. I bought the 5291 speed sensor. I'll install it this weekend. I know I need to rotate the parking brake housing to make it fit. I contacted a local speedo shop about a drive key. The guy said they make them when needed and to come on by and he would just give me one. Suuuurrrre. The fuel gauge is a universal one. It will work with the LC sender. That is one reason I picked this line of gauges. Less work installing.
Ordered my steering drag link and pitman arm from Cruiser Outfitters. It will be here in time to install it this Saturday. Kurt just got back from SEMA. As busy as he is catching up he promised the parts would go out today. What a guy and what great service!
- Thread starter
- #96
Today I installed the windshield.
Then I dove under to install my speed sensor. I also clocked the parking brake clockwise a little.
Here is the key that mated the speed sensor to the transfer case. I went to a local speedo shop and they made it for me for free.
I also temporarily installed the drag link and pitman arm I bought from Cruiser Outfitters so I could push the 40 outside to run the engine then rinse the dirt and grime off. Kurt talked me into a 1" drop arm. It lines up perfectly with the tie rod, however it is just too close. When I cycle the suspension the pitman arm's rod end boot just barely touches the tie rod. If I hadn't sleeved the tie rod I would have some clearance. I'm not sure what I can do about it. I might try a flat arm, but then the rod end might touch the tie rod. The 1" drop arm seems to be about 6 1/2" from center to center. If I could get one that was 6" it would clear without issue. I'll try to post up some pics tomorrow.
Tomorrow I'll install the trans temp sensor then I am on to building my instrument cluster.
Then I dove under to install my speed sensor. I also clocked the parking brake clockwise a little.
Here is the key that mated the speed sensor to the transfer case. I went to a local speedo shop and they made it for me for free.
I also temporarily installed the drag link and pitman arm I bought from Cruiser Outfitters so I could push the 40 outside to run the engine then rinse the dirt and grime off. Kurt talked me into a 1" drop arm. It lines up perfectly with the tie rod, however it is just too close. When I cycle the suspension the pitman arm's rod end boot just barely touches the tie rod. If I hadn't sleeved the tie rod I would have some clearance. I'm not sure what I can do about it. I might try a flat arm, but then the rod end might touch the tie rod. The 1" drop arm seems to be about 6 1/2" from center to center. If I could get one that was 6" it would clear without issue. I'll try to post up some pics tomorrow.
Tomorrow I'll install the trans temp sensor then I am on to building my instrument cluster.
Today I installed the windshield.
QUOTE]
That windshield is almost as clean as mine was!
Looking good. You're getting really close.
Nick
- Thread starter
- #98
Nick, I was going to comment to you about the glass 
You beat me to it. 
Thanks bud.
I have lots of little things left including a couple leaks to fix. I installed my trans temp sensor today and the T fitting I used was perfect! I just needed a bushing to go from 1/4 to 1/8th NPT.
I cycled the suspension yesterday measuring for shocks again and the tie rod is just too close to the pitman arm. I decided that I will redrill the axle mount plate center pin hole to move the axles back 3/4". That should give me plenty of clearance. Glad I didn't get my drive shafts cut yet. That will be January (gotta save some money for Christmas presents).
Have to go back to the exhaust shop too. The pipe hits the left rear tire when I stuff it up and the shock will not fit for sure. Even the tape measure was bent around the pipe. Plus I don't like the exhaust exiting out back. I would rather it went to the side to help avoid exhaust inside the cab.
As bad as I wanted my 40 on the road in December, it looks like it will be in January.
You beat me to it. Thanks bud.
I have lots of little things left including a couple leaks to fix. I installed my trans temp sensor today and the T fitting I used was perfect! I just needed a bushing to go from 1/4 to 1/8th NPT.
I cycled the suspension yesterday measuring for shocks again and the tie rod is just too close to the pitman arm. I decided that I will redrill the axle mount plate center pin hole to move the axles back 3/4". That should give me plenty of clearance. Glad I didn't get my drive shafts cut yet. That will be January (gotta save some money for Christmas presents).
Have to go back to the exhaust shop too. The pipe hits the left rear tire when I stuff it up and the shock will not fit for sure. Even the tape measure was bent around the pipe. Plus I don't like the exhaust exiting out back. I would rather it went to the side to help avoid exhaust inside the cab.
As bad as I wanted my 40 on the road in December, it looks like it will be in January.
- Thread starter
- #99
Gauges installed! They actually work too 
Still need to calibrate the speedometer and fuel gauges.
Still need to calibrate the speedometer and fuel gauges.
Lookin' good. I've been on mine for two years so far, and now understand why it's called a sickness.
