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Pull the EFI fuse every time you're not using it? Of course, wouldn't help if getting stolen on a flat bed.
 
I work with venomous snakes so I just let one loose in the truck if I am going to be away from it for the day hiking. Snakes don't mind the heat and don't need to eat or drink for extended times. I have other vehicle incapacitating precautions too, but there are lots of great information here too.
 
If I lived in an area where this was a real issue, I'd move. Won't live where I have to put bars on my windows, trackers in my vehicles, etc. But that's just me.

If your car is stolen, I would just plan on not getting it back, at least in decent shape. I think the best thing you can do is get good insurance, so if it is stolen, you can at least replace it.
If you drive your cruiser a lot, at some point you will end up in a bad area. So it's a good idea to put a lot of effort in security.
 
I know I'm late in the thread but people search. I'm currently going through this. I'm building a new overlander. My last overlander saw 45 countries. Break-ins are not hypothetical. Car theft and car-jacking can be made harder. The hope is that they find that your car is too much trouble.

This post is not a recipe. More like a checklist.

Get a tracker that can connect to any server you want. Avoid vendor-locked trackers with subscription. Use IoT sim cards if you need international roaming. It's best to use SIM cards that never expire.

Check compatible tracker lists on Ruhavik, gps-server.net, traccar.org and many others.

Of the China trackers, many are problematic. Unreliable and each of the models have clones that look the same but behave slightly differently. The only reliable Chinese tracker brand I know is Coban but be sure to get a genuine one (maybe easier said than done).

I prefer 4G for much better coverage but some desirable waterproof trackers don't have 4G.

I have a main tracker hardwired to the car. Because of the non-OEM wiring, it's not very hard to find. It can send me SMS when the the alarm trips. I can send an immobilize message that will blow the ECU fuse. Once the main tracker is disabled, a secondary tracker should be running.

I'm working on secondary trackers that are not wired to the car. They run on their own 10 - 20 Ah Li-Ion cell, for months on a charge. Send positions only 1-3 times a day. Charging is done with Qi. I can bury the tracker as long as it is at a plastic wall where the Qi charge pad can reach. Wireless charging used so that nobody finds the charging port.

Trackers with magnets are a no-no. The cheap (Chinese) tracker detectors detect static magnetic fields. Cheap RF detectors will find always-on trackers with an online cellular connection, that's why a mostly sleeping secondary tracker is good. Active GPS module can be detected, although less so.

I'm currently testing Teltonika and Coban products.

I previously had a TK103 clone with SMS position messages only. It was always reliable for years.

About immobilizers:
I made a DIY immobilizer that cuts off the fuel with a Toyota genuine sub tank valve. The valve is protected from easy access by a gun safe bolted to the frame. Bypassing it is certainly possible but it will slow them down considerably (on the street, not in a workshop). The car will start but run out of fuel after 20 seconds if hidden switch is not found. If you are creative, you can make hidden switches hard to find even for pros. Consider momentary switches with hold circuit. What if you have to push two switches at the same time for example? Magnetic switches deep behind trim? Lots of possibilities beyond a simple rocker switch.

I'm making a second DIY immobilizer that locks the manual gear shift lever in reverse with a padlock and a chain mounted to the floor. Also a visual deterrent.

I removed the door latch and lock linkages. Doors unlock electric only. Someone smashing the window or twisting the locks with a screwdriver can't open the doors. They will smash more windows though, I learned the hard way.

My car has a strongbox bolted to the floor holding the most valuable stuff. Some brands are Knaack, Weatherguard and Ridgid. Also, gun safes in any size preferred should be useful.
 
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apple just released these and they might be a cheap solution depending on where you live.

"it uses the network of Apple products and users to help you find your lost item (the so-called “Find My network”)… so you really just need anyone with an iPhone to be within 300 feet or 100 meters of your lost item and you’ll be able to find it. With already nearly a billion Apple devices in the Find My network worldwide, someone will walk by your item soon and you’ll find your AirTags-tracked device quickly"
 

apple just released these and they might be a cheap solution depending on where you live.

"it uses the network of Apple products and users to help you find your lost item (the so-called “Find My network”)… so you really just need anyone with an iPhone to be within 300 feet or 100 meters of your lost item and you’ll be able to find it. With already nearly a billion Apple devices in the Find My network worldwide, someone will walk by your item soon and you’ll find your AirTags-tracked device quickly"
Now tat looks like a nice, simple solution
Thx for posting
 
 

apple just released these and they might be a cheap solution depending on where you live.

"it uses the network of Apple products and users to help you find your lost item (the so-called “Find My network”)… so you really just need anyone with an iPhone to be within 300 feet or 100 meters of your lost item and you’ll be able to find it. With already nearly a billion Apple devices in the Find My network worldwide, someone will walk by your item soon and you’ll find your AirTags-tracked device quickly"
Ordered one
I’ll let you know how it works.
They are estimating 5-7 weeks for delivery
 

apple just released these and they might be a cheap solution depending on where you live.

"it uses the network of Apple products and users to help you find your lost item (the so-called “Find My network”)… so you really just need anyone with an iPhone to be within 300 feet or 100 meters of your lost item and you’ll be able to find it. With already nearly a billion Apple devices in the Find My network worldwide, someone will walk by your item soon and you’ll find your AirTags-tracked device quickly"
Pretty wild what phones can do these days... :cautious:
 
Well, Apple said 5-7 weeks and it shipped today.
I’ll do some tests to see how long it’s out range of my phone before it emits a noise.
It’s like an elevator door close button, it probably doesn’t work but you feel better having pressed it.
This and my kill switch will make me sleep easier.
 
Checking out some trackers now...any good reviews out there?

I think I want one with a battery since it's easy to disconnect the battery and kill a hard wired device.

I want to avoid the OBD port being used, (I already use that for an ultragauge + that's the first place to look for a device)

I have taken precautions with other means of immobilization but I'd also like to have a gps or LTE solution for last resort.

Any recommendations?
 
Curious if anyone uses a big chain around the frame to lock it up at home? Like a bike
Serious question
 
Curious if anyone uses a big chain around the frame to lock it up at home? Like a bike
Serious question
Serious answer - It would have to be a really big chain. it would also be better to chip out the concrete/ asphalt wherever the 80 is usually parked and set a in ground anchor with a large ship anchor chain. but that would require a massive lock and it would be heavy to always lift up (even a few links) and attach them to a hook or something on the frame. it would be a pain in the ass.

one of those big chains would take a while to cut through so it would make a lot of noise... basically i see what your getting at but the reality of how much work that is every time you park and leave is a pain in the ass. (unless you park it for long stretches and dont drive it much)

i guess it depends on your set up at home and how feasible that actually is. you could just make it a rock crawler and have an obstacle of boulders in front of your driveway that you need to crawl over and get to your spot... park it on a rock garden and nobody that wants it quick is gonna take the time to figure out which line to take to get out of the driveway... add a mud pit and some sand with no winch points and they would be sure to keep on driving.
 
If you're going to physically lock the truck around an axle/bumper, I'd use a heavy cable, not chain. Cable is MUCH harder to cut. I've seen massive size chain link cut like butter with a large bolt cutter.
 
If you're going to physically lock the truck around an axle/bumper, I'd use a heavy cable, not chain. Cable is MUCH harder to cut. I've seen massive size chain link cut like butter with a large bolt cutter.
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