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- #101
Builds Good Dog Build (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter RiggityJ
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- #102
At some point I got the manifolds gasketed and back on. lol I really need to update more often. Also big thanks to @HemiAlex for helping get the carb and linkage on.
Also converted the throttle linkage from the cheesy / janky 69-71 cable linkage to a 73. The biggest issue was that the cable from the pedal had a screw on stopper. If it got loose, the cable would slip and no throttle/pedal connection. Also, if you needed to adjust it, there was a good chance you would lose the stopper or one of its components during the adjustment. No good on a trail.
The 73 linkage was a unique year that came with its own bracket. The bracket accepts case cable nuts and is a hybrid using a pedal cable to the bracket. Then from the bracket it uses a rod to the carb. The rod works on 2f carbs too. Overall, I want sure it would work until it did.
Bracket is on right of carb. Throttle cable does a loop before attaching to the bracket. All photos are with the pedal not pressed.
My finger is poking to the one part of the bracket that had to be clearanced with a dremmel. That spring is the brackets throttle return spring.
Also converted the throttle linkage from the cheesy / janky 69-71 cable linkage to a 73. The biggest issue was that the cable from the pedal had a screw on stopper. If it got loose, the cable would slip and no throttle/pedal connection. Also, if you needed to adjust it, there was a good chance you would lose the stopper or one of its components during the adjustment. No good on a trail.
The 73 linkage was a unique year that came with its own bracket. The bracket accepts case cable nuts and is a hybrid using a pedal cable to the bracket. Then from the bracket it uses a rod to the carb. The rod works on 2f carbs too. Overall, I want sure it would work until it did.
Bracket is on right of carb. Throttle cable does a loop before attaching to the bracket. All photos are with the pedal not pressed.
My finger is poking to the one part of the bracket that had to be clearanced with a dremmel. That spring is the brackets throttle return spring.
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- #103
Last bracket photo.
- Thread starter
- #104
I’ve signed up for sas8 and have started thinking about trip prep. Here is the current planning board.
- Thread starter
- #105
Finally got the vintage oem side mirror arm on this morning. Going through final check list before I try to start the engine. Ended up putting 15w40 in the engine per my oil whisperer @HemiAlex.
The arm had 2 bolts broken in it. The end mirror had broken off and had to be completely drilled. The bottom bracket was frozen. When I tried unscrewing it the nut popped off one end with a bit of screw still inside. Braket was still immobile and I had to drill the screw out the rest of the way until I could pull/hammer it out.
Invest in cobalt bits if you buy a Land Cruiser. They drill through bolts so much faster than the gold cr@p bits. Maybe 5min per bolt. The horrors I had with carbon steel and titanium coated bolts. So many hours wasted.
The arm had 2 bolts broken in it. The end mirror had broken off and had to be completely drilled. The bottom bracket was frozen. When I tried unscrewing it the nut popped off one end with a bit of screw still inside. Braket was still immobile and I had to drill the screw out the rest of the way until I could pull/hammer it out.
Invest in cobalt bits if you buy a Land Cruiser. They drill through bolts so much faster than the gold cr@p bits. Maybe 5min per bolt. The horrors I had with carbon steel and titanium coated bolts. So many hours wasted.
Manifold gasket, new 60 carb, valve adjustment, less leaks and more miles. I’m sure we’re forgetting something.
James is killing it. And it has AC. He’s come a long way. It drives amazing.
James is killing it. And it has AC. He’s come a long way. It drives amazing.
Rockymtnreaper
Colorado.Cruiser
It's so cool seeing this get all the work done! God jobs boys!
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Sweet! What'd you land on for air cleaner.
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- #111
@mattressking I just found an early style 1F air box actually. This should work as I think a buddy of mine has one that works. Plus no drilled holes. I’ll post picks when I get it installed.
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- #112
@mattressking I believe this is a 1969 air box assembly. The arm has less elevation rise than the (believed to be) 1971 assembly. Which really shouldn’t work, in less you mount it on the top screws only. Again, not perfect. I’m considering going with a late style as I already have a 2f valve cover or looking at a 3FE arm connection.
In the photo below, the 1971 is on top and 1969 is on bottom. Note I have cut some of the 1971 arm-to-carb hole to make it fit and get close to the carb top seat plane. No cutting on the 1969.
Arm to carb gasket is a tall boi from city racer for a 1969 carb. Somehow it fits both circumferences. The tallness takes up slop in the angles as the opening on the bottom of the arm isn’t parallel to the carb.
In the photo below, the 1971 is on top and 1969 is on bottom. Note I have cut some of the 1971 arm-to-carb hole to make it fit and get close to the carb top seat plane. No cutting on the 1969.
Arm to carb gasket is a tall boi from city racer for a 1969 carb. Somehow it fits both circumferences. The tallness takes up slop in the angles as the opening on the bottom of the arm isn’t parallel to the carb.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Be my guinea pig and use a 71-74 top cover of carb on 80-87 carb. Then it should play nicely.
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- #114
@mattressking gotta find the lid, that’s the tough part.
Milage at refresh: 1318
Current mileage(since taking ownership): 1492
Gas mileage: 8.7mpg
Hot oil and filter changed again. More 15w-40 diesel oil going in. Grime stuck to the magnets. Oil came out real dark and grimy. Not metallic looking, which was nice.
Talking with my buddy, a lubricants engineer at Exxon, it was recommended that I “Make sure whatever you put in has 1600+ppm zddp” aka “zinc” but it also has a phosphorous component. Im not sure what the Costco 15w-40 I’ve been using has, but the shell rottatella 15w-40 only has 1200 zddp. Do I switch to a fancy race oil for my race tractor? Am I going down the yotafilter hole @HemiAlex? How deep do I go? Does this matter? Probably not at all.
Recommended potential oils were a 20w-50 or 0w-50 of the following:
-Lucas Racing Only synthetic
-valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil
-Red Line Race Oil synthetic
Not street legal = not with catalytic converter
Milage at refresh: 1318
Current mileage(since taking ownership): 1492
Gas mileage: 8.7mpg
Hot oil and filter changed again. More 15w-40 diesel oil going in. Grime stuck to the magnets. Oil came out real dark and grimy. Not metallic looking, which was nice.
Talking with my buddy, a lubricants engineer at Exxon, it was recommended that I “Make sure whatever you put in has 1600+ppm zddp” aka “zinc” but it also has a phosphorous component. Im not sure what the Costco 15w-40 I’ve been using has, but the shell rottatella 15w-40 only has 1200 zddp. Do I switch to a fancy race oil for my race tractor? Am I going down the yotafilter hole @HemiAlex? How deep do I go? Does this matter? Probably not at all.
Recommended potential oils were a 20w-50 or 0w-50 of the following:
-Lucas Racing Only synthetic
-valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil
-Red Line Race Oil synthetic
Not street legal = not with catalytic converter
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Try castrol 20w50 classic, according to data sheet, it is about 1400 ppm.
In regards to lid, which lid, air cleaner lid or carb hat? I have the carb hat for the 71-74 style, you'd just need to find the air cleaner lid that matches your manifold.
In regards to lid, which lid, air cleaner lid or carb hat? I have the carb hat for the 71-74 style, you'd just need to find the air cleaner lid that matches your manifold.
I used to obsess about it, I don’t any more.
I put 15w40 of any form in it and it’s fine. Mobil 1 15w50 used to be high zinc but not sure any more.
I think the high zinc is a must for break in if a new camshaft, but at this point nothing has killed my 2F and I don’t think anything well.
Get a zddp additive and keep doing the diesel oil.
I put 15w40 of any form in it and it’s fine. Mobil 1 15w50 used to be high zinc but not sure any more.
I think the high zinc is a must for break in if a new camshaft, but at this point nothing has killed my 2F and I don’t think anything well.
Get a zddp additive and keep doing the diesel oil.
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- #117
I need to do something about the throttle linkage.
The pedal characteristics are awful, it’s heavy and sticks in position when pushing the pedal down. It feels like I have to push so hard to get the pedal to depress, that I am literally bending the pedal steel bar. I don’t think my body can put up with me driving the 40 to Colorado with that pedal characteristic.
Took the 40 up to 68mph today on the highway and failed the paper clip test. I think the 1971 pedal and associated travel is limiting my cable travel such that the secondary jets are not activating. Which is sad, because the 1973 linkage technically works.
I’m going to look at swapping the 1971 pedal assembly to a later year.
On a side note, it has been great to drive the 40 around town. The wife is mildly amused with it.
The pedal characteristics are awful, it’s heavy and sticks in position when pushing the pedal down. It feels like I have to push so hard to get the pedal to depress, that I am literally bending the pedal steel bar. I don’t think my body can put up with me driving the 40 to Colorado with that pedal characteristic.
Took the 40 up to 68mph today on the highway and failed the paper clip test. I think the 1971 pedal and associated travel is limiting my cable travel such that the secondary jets are not activating. Which is sad, because the 1973 linkage technically works.
I’m going to look at swapping the 1971 pedal assembly to a later year.
On a side note, it has been great to drive the 40 around town. The wife is mildly amused with it.
- Thread starter
- #118
Pick up a matching 4plus front bumper to go with the rear 4plus tire carrier. The OEM front licenses plate bracket can be made to fit with a couple ugga-duggas.
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- #119
Next came mounting the 8274 I picked up a while back. Life sitting on the side probably wasn’t the best for it, but I’m going to mount it and just roll with it. Needs new leads, a line, Hawse, and gold plating.
It’s a heavy basterd. Really need to install the addaleaf kit and get the secondary jets going.
It’s a heavy basterd. Really need to install the addaleaf kit and get the secondary jets going.
