Builds Good Dog Build (1 Viewer)

[RiggityJ]

O how priorities change. Because the 40 has been pulling daily driver status, I had to keep the linkage as-is and address daily drivability issues. First was the fact that with the 70series wheels and 285/55-16 KM3, I couldn’t open the rear hatch without taking the rear tire off. So, I picked up a 4plus rear tire carry.

Original setup:

Old hitch was a PITA to get off. The PO had square bolts in the backside of the C channel frame and I couldn’t get a wrench in to loosen them. Had to cut them off and put heat to them to get the square nuts off.

4plus on:

 

[RiggityJ]

Next issue was the fuel leak in the cab had gotten so bad I couldn’t drive it with the windows down without getting a head ache. So, took the passenger seat out and pulled most of the hoses and replaced them with jegs pushloc blue hoses. Got them all except the line out to the carb because I forgot to order the 8an-an8 fittings. Once those come, I’m replacing the last of the fuel lines.

Before photos:
Level gauge crustiest and gooy silicon

Both fuel filler lines were cracked

More white soft squishy silicon

Kinked red rubber hose was probably the main culprit. Had a 1/4” hole in it.

 

[RiggityJ]

Put in a new level gauge sending unit and lengthened the stock wires. A 1foot length of white to positive and black to negative allowed for a better reroute. And no kink!

I checked the voltage at the gauge and we had power. But still no movement at the cluster…

Wiring notes:
Yellow w/ red strip to white
White w/black strip to black

All cleaned up:

 

[RiggityJ]

Spent the morning cleaning up wiring on the 4plus bumper license plate holder with my father in law. Found a good routing and had the wires tucked into some spare rubber tubing and harnes wrapping. I think it turned out well, just don’t look at original wiring tie in. Anyone else find wire routing strangely enjoyable?

Green went to white
Black ground added

Tie in to original harness

Outside routing on arm to light

 

[RiggityJ]

So, I’m preparing for an light engine refresh. I’ve gotten tired of all the constant leaks from the engine. I’m sure I have other leaks, but one step at a time.

Other things I plan to address during that time:
-Oil filter oil lines- picked up the redline cruiser stainless lines kit. The current ones are a fire waiting to happen (extinguisher is under the drivers seat).
-Exhaust piping- I’ve discovered my exhaust isn’t connected to the manifold. Now that the gas leaks are fixed, I can smell the exhaust coming into the cab.
-new exhaust piping that will let me run the @Downey skid plate I picked up a couple months ago (solid). Current exhaust is 2inches below frame rails.


So, starting the the least important thing (as usual), i got the skid plate fitted and holes for rivets and bolts drilled. Then sanded the surface, primed, and rattle can black. Also, had to drill a broken bolt out of the frame.

Waiting for the spray paint to dry, I started plugging holes left by the previous owners with rubber plugs. So far, 34 holes in the back have been plugged. Majority were drilled holes, but a couple were rust holes associated with the roll cage. All of the black dots are plugged holes. Hopefully this will help keep dirt and water out of the body.

Speaking of water ingress, I’ve got active rust under the sound proofing rubber mat. I’ll have to figure out a solution for that.

 

[60 40]

I’ve got a 73 throttle cable with barrel ends and bracket. This converts to a mechanical linkage at the carb. Unfortunately the connecting bar and ball ends were heavily corroded. I’ve got a lokar solution for that as I’m assuming a new or good condition 73 bar is basically unobtainable.

Enjoyed reading through your rolling build thread.

Once you've stabilized more pressing issues and get back to throttle linkage I believe @ToyotaMatt has the throttle linkage bar you need new! I recently refurbished and installed a cable to 73 mechanical linkage in my 69 in order to use a newer carb and got the cable from him. I also would have gotten the bar from him but mine was salvageable.

Keep up the good work!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

i have ANY LINKAGE PROBLEM SOLVING SOLUTIONS available


all oem inspired at the core fundamental roots

 

[RiggityJ]

New donut and stud nuts added to the exhaust. Previously the studs were welded to the exhaust manifold. This causes an issue where the studs aren’t threaded far enough for you to fully clamp the donut. Not positive I is lead free, but at least it’s connected now. With a quick adjustment on the carb, I’ve been driving it around again for a bit now, probably 200mi no issues.

Original:

Updated:

 

[RiggityJ]

I found a pair of original Toyota mirror arms! Very excited to go back to oem mirrors. Once I pull the broken mirror bolt out of the passenger side arm, they should go on no problem. For now, I have a brand new passenger arm installed.


Video of the arms:

 

[RiggityJ]

Slow steady progress. After bolting the exhaust up and a slight carb adjustment the 40 has been running like a champ. It still eats batteries, but that’s an issue for another day.

Put in the @redlinecruisers stainless steel oil filter lines, which is a big risk mitigated. Replaced oil and will change again soon to try to clean it out a bit.

Passed annual inspection, but had to wire a temporary ugly ass horn relay switch in. Not sure where the short is for my horn. Likely at the steering wheel button, which has zero play/movement.

 

[RiggityJ]

With the inspection out of the way, I broke into the engine last weekend. No broken bolts, but several loose and unengaged washers on the exhaust manifold. So safe to say there was an another exhaust leak source. Mated manifold is off to machine shop.
I need to order new exhaust fasteners hardware. @HemiAlex has convinced me to put a new points dizzy in. So I’ve got a dui if anyone wants one.
Before photo

Loose bolt/washer

Oil from pcv line to carb

More oil in inlet and carbon in exhaust

 

[HemiAlex]

How about that horn?

 

[60 40]

The short in you horn may be in the button or it could be in the wire from the horn button that runs inside the steering column along side the steering shaft. When I had my steering column out for modifications I was surprised to see that that wire was exposed to the shaft and in my case the shaft had completely rubbed through the protective coating of the wire and down to the copper.

Assuming this is a hot wire it may be causing your short.


Oh and keep at it your getting there!

 

[RiggityJ]

@60 40 very interesting. At some point I will need to tear into it.

I picked up a 6inch tuffy arm rest. Zip tie special for now. Since there really isn’t a lot of room between the seats, I wanted get some seat/arm rest time before committing. I’ll need to custom fab a bracket for the roll cage. The tricky bit is it will need to be able to diss assemble in case something goes wrong with the wires/hoses below the arm rest. Should be a big help on the longer trips I’ve got planned.

 

[RiggityJ]

Spent some time pulling more off the engine. Got stopped on the side cover PO used clear bathroom silicon on everything. I wasn’t able to pry off the side cover with tools at hand. I think I’ll have to just cut the silicon with a long thin razor

 

[RiggityJ]

Well, after the engine disaster, it was nice to have an easy win. Rebuilt the rear hatch struts for ~$30.

Thanks @Flatlanderfj40 for the rebuild idea.

 

[RiggityJ]

In June I got the exhaust manifolds back from the machine shop.

 

[RiggityJ]

Then I promptly threw my back out and was out of commission for many months. Finally got back to it in October with my father-in law’s help.

Put the crack at TDC and pulled the old dizzy and side panel. The wise man had a genius trick for moving the crank:
1: put it in second
2: jack up one rear tire
3: slowly and gently rotate tire until you see the bee-bee
4: back up if you pass
5: your done! No sweating or pushing the vehicle.

 

[RiggityJ]

Prepping the panel for re-installation. Man is an artist.

We also switched the 1f stamped steel valve cover for an early fj40 2f cover. Reused the 1f stud cover rubber gasket covers. The 2f rubber gaskets required larger studs. I think this could be a vacuum leak source, but it felt tight and snug so fingers crossed.

Also added some hand me down garage art.

 

[RiggityJ]

Messed around trying to fit a 2f 60series carb spacer definitely had interference with the block bolts. Would require trimming. Still may do this in the future.

Stud holes aligned and spacer resting on top:

Position when spacer flat and slide as close to the block with out tilting spacer.