Builds Golden Boy / was 'an as-yet unnamed gulf spec diesel 1991 HZJ pickup'

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The objective here was mechanicals... John will probably gut this whole cab and dash and go through everything on his own.. I have no interest in that sort of work (other then supplying the parts :) ) and he does
I do very much enjoy that sort of work. And yes, the objective was to have Matt and crew do the heavy lifting on what was really a worn-out truck. When I first laid eyes on it and the guys at the auction yard actually made the engine run and drive it a little back and forth I was amazed that it ran at all. The work I had did on it in Dubai was more in the nature of triage than anything. I got a new transmission and transfer case out of necessity but the place I was using really did not have the focus to do things the way I wanted.

I shipped the truck to the US as soon as it was normally operable because I wanted a pickup in my life in the US and because at that time I had not found shops here that could do things to the quality level I wanted on a 70 series.

It is really hard to explain, but what is needed is a mix of knowledge of what the original design was and how to maximize use of new or new-ish OEM parts, and when to throw that away and re-engineer and fabricate to get where you want to go. Some good shops throw up their hands when faced with a lack of OEM parts. Matt & Co. seem to have the mix just about right, I think.

In looking at the last few posts I am thinking that I may even do a frame off on this truck, after I get my petrol pickup there in Florida as well. Both trucks have their issues but on Iota I was the one to go through all the clutch and brake pedals and boosters at least and I think they are in good shape--but I know exactly what Matt found and it did not surprise me. As to the brake systems beyond the booster and pedals, all I can say is that they work. I will be VERY interested tin driving Golden Boy to compare the brake effectiveness. Iota works but I'd like better brakes. Maybe it just needs the same treatment that Matt has given Golden Boy.

The 75 series is deceptively simple. The more you get into it, the more you realize there is a lot going on. Matt told me last night, for example, that there does not seem to be any main/sub solenoid valves on Golden Boy. The system on Iota is pretty involved and not yet sorted. Not sure if I will do that on Iota here in Dubai or when it gets to Florida. The thing is I think I may be able to find main/sub valves here.
 
John can do this later but all of those black dash faceplates are still available and cheap (or at least they were a couple of years ago).
Yes; Golden Boy is going to get a complete cab teardown at a minimum--but only when I get my other pickup in Florida. I actually enjoy aircon/HVAC work and all the fiddley bits. And I LOVE the design of the 75 dash. It is so simple and minimalist. Just sheet metal where form follows function. The 79 series dash is way too fancy for me.

The HVAC stuff is very easy on a 70 series in comparison to 80 or 100. Here is Iota's future main HVAC box that currently lives under my apartment sink in Dubai waiting for me to bring it back.
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PTO gearbox blasted, parts cleaned, and reinstalled with all the OEM parts I could get for it.


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Back together and on the road. 6.5 business days for everything, not too shabby if I do say so myself


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Gas tank work underway.

Big ole' tanks
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Insane amounts of plumbing
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Tanks back in with new level sending units, filler neck and all feed hoses and clamps new. Next is to get the new switching valves installed (both were bypassed) and try and get that setup working. If anyone has good pictures of an OEM subharness and routing for that wiring it would be really appreciated as it seems to be missing on this one.

We have all the electrical connectors in stock to make one, would just like to see where it goes.

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Turbo install started as well

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The guys have found some more 'field expedient' wiring in Golden Boy.
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I knew this kind of thing was likely there, but to actually see it is, well, it is good that Matt's guys are taking care of it.

Look at thins new tranny mount in there!
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So one thing I have been thinking about is the EGT and boost pressure. The Safari mild turbo I bought has no instrumentation. I am told that this kit has been engineered specifically for government use on 1HZ and reliability and durability were the priorities. Time will tell. But I would like to know what is going on. Cheapo meters on Amazon do not fill me with confidence. I've been reading @JDM Journeys' great thread on his HZJ77 with great interest. (I think he lives not too far from @gnarlynick2072 and @janyyc, as I recall. Seems to be something of a hotbed for old LC's up there in Edmonton.) JDM and I chatted a bit about his selection of an EGT meter and he suggested I look at Auber Instruments' offerings. I did and I really liked what I saw.

I had been looking for an actual instrument that was reasonably priced and had reasonable accuracy. Auber seems to have a nice simple approach to things and they had put together some packages that fit the bill. Specifically a dual channel EGT and boost meter.

The meter itself is a 1/16 DIN 48mm x 48mm. I chose the white digits.
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On the EGT they offer a variety of sensor mounting options, which I also liked.
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The boost sensor is similarly straightforward
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This unit has a control output function which I think will allow me to turn on a big red light if the EGT goes North of where it should. Looks like a nice unit. It even has some kind of brightness control input which also would be nice.

Given that I was going to ask Matt to install it, I sent him some information. He agreed it was a nice, simple way to go, so I placed the order yesterday. Should arrive in Florida in a couple of days.

Regarding installation, my intent is to try to fit it into the sub tank binnacle on top of the dash, long term. For now Matt will have his guys do something simple under the dash.
 
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So one thing I have been thinking about is the EGT and boost pressure. The Safari mild turbo I bought has no instrumentation. I am told that this kit has been engineered specifically for government use on 1HZ and reliability and durability were the priorities. Time will tell. But I would like to know what is going on. Cheapo meters on Amazon do not fill me with confidence. I've been reading @JDM Journeys' great thread on his HZJ77 with great interest. (I think he lives not too far from @gnarlynick2072 and @janyyc, as I recall. Seems to be something of a hotbed for old LC's up there in Edmonton.) JDM and I chatted a bit about his selection of an EGT meter and he suggested I look at Auber Instruments' offerings. I did and I really liked what I saw.

I had been looking for an actual instrument that was reasonably priced and had reasonable accuracy. Auber seems to have a nice simple approach to things and they had put together some packages that fit the bill. Specifically a dual channel EGT and boost meter.

The meter itself is a 1/16 DIN 48mm x 48mm. I chose the white digits.
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On the EGT they offer a variety of sensor mounting options, which I also liked.
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The boost sensor is similarly straightforward
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This unit has a control output function which I think will allow me to turn on a big red light if the EGT goes North of where it should. Looks like a nice unit. It even has some kind of brightness control input which also would be nice.

Given that I was going to ask Matt to install it, I sent him some information. He agreed it was a nice, simple way to go, so I placed the order yesterday. Should arrive in Florida in a couple of days.

Regarding installation, my intent is to try to fit it into the sub tank binnacle on top of the dash, long term. For now Matt will have his guys do something simple under the dash.

I've been using Auber Instruments gauges for 3 years in the same application and have been really pleased with them. Simple, functional and look period correct in my eyes.
 
John when my preprogrammed alarm comes on and triggers the led it is very noticeable. Very bright. You may not need any other light triggered, but I guess that depends on how low you put it.

On top of the steering column it's almost a bit too bright if I happen to trigger the warning light (it's a rare thing since it's usually cooler then).

But overall the Auberins Egt has been great.
 
John when my preprogrammed alarm comes on and triggers the led it is very noticeable. Very bright. You may not need any other light triggered, but I guess that depends on how low you put it.

On top of the steering column it's almost a bit too bright if I happen to trigger the warning light (it's a rare thing since it's usually cooler then).

But overall the Auberins Egt has been great.
Thanks for this. When I look at the instruction manual is states that the temperature alarm (EGT) goes on when the temperature falls below a threshold. Is it programmable to work the other way round, or did you use a relay?
 
My Auber is programmed to trigger the alarm when the temperature exceeds 1200°F, and switch it off again when it drops below 900°F. It can be used the other way, I’ve thought of wiring it to a relay that controls the ignition wiring to function as a ‘smart’ turbo timer.
 
My Auber is programmed to trigger the alarm when the temperature exceeds 1200°F, and switch it off again when it drops below 900°F. It can be used the other way, I’ve thought of wiring it to a relay that controls the ignition wiring to function as a ‘smart’ turbo timer.
Yep - mines the same. I'd have to double check what I've programmed in at this point but I think it comes on at 1150 and goes off when I go back down to 1075 if memory serves?

Wired to an intercooler fan relay would be a good use of it too..? Maybe someday...
 
Wiring, wiring, wiring... The more that Matt's guys dig in the more they find. And this is absolutely no surprise to me. All my Middle East rescues have had really horrific wiring issues. When I retire I expect I am going to spend a lot of time on wiring.
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I could post a lot more.
 
We discovered that the main and sub tank were simply 'T'd' together. This explains why I would get fuel leaks from the rear tank when I filled the front tank to the brim or when I parked on an upslope. (The rear tank filler hose was toast.). Anyways Matt & Co. completely sorted the sub/main tank valving but found that the binnacle was toast. Fortunately these are thick on the ground here and I even had one sitting around on the balcony.

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I will send this back with my son--he is coming for a visit over the holidays. And I think I will get one more in better shape at the scrap yard and send that back as well. It will be so nice to have functional main and sub on the diesel pickup.


Other work includes a new heater pipe.
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Golden Boy's power take off lever for the winch has been repaired by Matt's crew:

And the exhaust is coming together as a work of art!
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New stainless hangers making use of OEM isolaters (peeking there in the back) are being used:
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The comparison to my slightly rusty underside makes me a little embarassed.
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Meanwhile the stuff under the hood is getting a little TLC
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And here is another shot of the new 3" exhaust--and new fuel lines.
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Meanwhile, back in Dubai my son and I went to Sharjah to hunt for a wiper control stalk for the Omani diesel 80, but I forgot that Sharjah is still on the SUN-THURS work week so we got there and everything was closed! So we went to a great, if isolated Off-Road History Museum.
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This is a Chinese copy of an 80:
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Inspiring place, added to my list for the next UAE visit!
Thanks for sharing guys!
 

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