Builds Gen. Waverly (1 Viewer)

[majdomo]

Eventually found where the water was coming in - there was a tear in the big wiring grommet on the driver's side firewall, and a missing sheet metal plug just to the left of it. You could see daylight from under the dash. I replaced the sheet metal plug with something from the hardware store, but I don't like the repair so will probably get a proper rubber plug to seal that up. I also put some FIPG in the grommet tear and open hole, tested it by putting my garden hose on spray and letting it just dump like rain on a closed hood for 5-10 minutes, and it all looks ok for now.

I did notice water dripping onto that grommet, and found nothing wet inside the left kick panel after the test, so thinking this got the majority of it. The windshield seal is kind of crispy too, so that needs replacing. I already have the seal, but when I called the glass guy to come out and install, he said that the windshield would likely break on removal so suggested having a new one ready. We'll see, I might look for a second opinion.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Eventually found where the water was coming in - there was a tear in the big wiring grommet on the driver's side firewall, and a missing sheet metal plug just to the left of it. You could see daylight from under the dash. I replaced the sheet metal plug with something from the hardware store, but I don't like the repair so will probably get a proper rubber plug to seal that up. I also put some FIPG in the grommet tear and open hole, tested it by putting my garden hose on spray and letting it just dump like rain on a closed hood for 5-10 minutes, and it all looks ok for now.

I did notice water dripping onto that grommet, and found nothing wet inside the left kick panel after the test, so thinking this got the majority of it. The windshield seal is kind of crispy too, so that needs replacing. I already have the seal, but when I called the glass guy to come out and install, he said that the windshield would likely break on removal so suggested having a new one ready. We'll see, I might look for a second opinion.

Black FIPG 00295-00103 is a temporary seal up / bandaid to the EPDM rubber grommet that is torn / damaged causing the water infiltration .

Black FIPG will not chemically or mechanically bond to EPDM grommets or Weatherstripping…

For this compromised grommet I would recommend and use a 3-M marine grade weatherstripping bonding adhesive product , that is designed to chemically and mechanically make a life-time seal to EPDM

Surface Prep is 9/10 ‘s if the law so the 3M weather strip adhesive will say prep with Acetone or De-Natured Alcohol for example to crate a sterile and dirt and grime free surface to do its thing correctly ..,


This tech reference photos are GHOST
Can you point out maybe red-ink arrow the area you are getting the leaks

Also , see my little round vacant hole to the left , is that where you refer to a metal plug should be ?

Thanks
Matt

 

[majdomo]

Installed new fuel filter and an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator that matches up to the OEM p/n. Old fuel filter was full of silt and junk, so that probably wasn't a good thing. New FPR was installed to match OEM spec rather than the "looks the same, should work the same" Toyota version. Also fixed an exhaust leak at the outboard cat converter mate-up to the Y pipes by replacing the exhaust pipe donut.

Rig is up in the FS section, but I'm wavering on it...

 

[Hammer45]

Installed new fuel filter and an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator that matches up to the OEM p/n. Old fuel filter was full of silt and junk, so that probably wasn't a good thing. New FPR was installed to match OEM spec rather than the "looks the same, should work the same" Toyota version. Also fixed an exhaust leak at the outboard cat converter mate-up to the Y pipes by replacing the exhaust pipe donut.

Rig is up in the FS section, but I'm wavering on it...

Wavering….. waverly. I see what you did there.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Installed new fuel filter and an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator that matches up to the OEM p/n. Old fuel filter was full of silt and junk, so that probably wasn't a good thing. New FPR was installed to match OEM spec rather than the "looks the same, should work the same" Toyota version. Also fixed an exhaust leak at the outboard cat converter mate-up to the Y pipes by replacing the exhaust pipe donut.

Rig is up in the FS section, but I'm wavering on it...

.

did you take pre-photos and along the way step by step photos by chance John ?

i have every single part that gets touched on-hand to replace my current P/O installed aftermarket one ...

the banjo bolts and all crush rings , down to the qty x 2 M8 SEMS bolts securing the band bracket to the inner fender mounting location ...

both sides high pressure EFI hoses are long long disc/ nla ....



the visuals below scare me more then bit , i have envisioned having to use my trusty SNAP-ON 3/8 drive pneumatic master-blaster on both super low profile / thin banjo hex head via a chrome 6-point socket i have prepped the business end dead nutz flat decked , to help ensure no striped walked off hex tool to hex bolts head , same in-kind to off'ing the stock silly flat gear box and axle service plugs that have that super super low profile head detail to them as well .....

how did you break each side banjo loose initially ?

oh , did you settle on the OEM Delphi or SMP regulator ?



thanks
matt



.

 

[majdomo]

how did you break each side banjo loose initially ?

oh , did you settle on the OEM Delphi or SMP regulator ?

Used my 17mm socket and pushed against the 19mm snap-on open end wrench to make sure I didn't put any stress on the EFI hoses. They broke loose just fine on either end, then released the bracket from the fender to remove the filter. Reinstall is reverse from removal. Filter came with 4 new crush washers.

Used the OEM Delphi regulator. Seems to work nicely but not cheap, for what it is.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Used my 17mm socket and pushed against the 19mm snap-on open end wrench to make sure I didn't put any stress on the EFI hoses. They broke loose just fine on either end, then released the bracket from the fender to remove the filter. Reinstall is reverse from removal. Filter came with 4 new crush washers.

Used the OEM Delphi regulator. Seems to work nicely but not cheap, for what it is.

The frontward facing banjo is the sketchy looking offender here ….

The firewall side not as likely to an issue like the big brown ball of patina …

.
FRAM = FRacking AMarket …

 

[majdomo]

The frontward facing banjo is the sketchy looking offender here ….

The firewall side not as likely to an issue like the big brown ball of patina …

.
FRAM = FRacking AMarket …

View attachment 3856287View attachment 3856288View attachment 3856290

Yikes! Mine looked like normal banjo bolts.. this looks like it's been sleeping with the fishes.

 

[majdomo]

General is sticking around, by popular request. Wife says "why would you sell it, you put so much work into it... up to you but I like it."

Well, ok.

 

[MWM1]

General is sticking around, by popular request. Wife says "why would you sell it, you put so much work into it... up to you but I like it."

Well, ok.

Wow! Glad to hear you will keep the General Waverly! I've enjoyed reading your posts and it's helped me on my rig as well!
Thank you!

 

[majdomo]

Wow! Glad to hear you will keep the General Waverly! I've enjoyed reading your posts and it's helped me on my rig as well!
Thank you!

Glad it's been helpful! Helps me to document what I've done. Basically if it sold, I'd be kind of bummed out. So that's where I'm at with it.

I think I'll torque down the oil pan again, and if that doesn't work to seal up the rear arch before the next oil change, I'll replace with an aftermarket seal. Mark @65swb45 set me up with an aftermarket gasket and install process that worked great on my 40, took a couple of re-torques (and a new pan) but cleared up a very pesky oil leak on that rig.

After that it's straight on to CA smog... again.

Speaking of CA smog for classic cars, someone in the CA legislature is thinking about this issue. This would reinstate the rolling smog requirement but push it back to 35 years or older and require classic car insurance.

 

[majdomo]

Re-torque of the oil pan worked, slow drip from the rear arch is gone so that's a big relief.

Torque spec: "2 fingers' worth of pressure on a 3/8" ratchet. Stop when you can't go further with that much of your hand on the handle." It's worked twice for me, and the FSM has failed me the same number of times, so there you go.

DDing it this week and checking oil, making a mental list of stuff to fix. Hesitation coming off idle (like at a stoplight) is gone too with a new fuel filter and FPR. I should probably redo all the steering joints and align, if that doesn't get rid of the floaty then may be time to look at the box, which is definitely seeping.

 

[Hammer45]

Re-torque of the oil pan worked, slow drip from the rear arch is gone so that's a big relief.

Torque spec: "2 fingers' worth of pressure on a 3/8" ratchet. Stop when you can't go further with that much of your hand on the handle." It's worked twice for me, and the FSM has failed me the same number of times, so there you go.

DDing it this week and checking oil, making a mental list of stuff to fix. Hesitation coming off idle (like at a stoplight) is gone too with a new fuel filter and FPR. I should probably redo all the steering joints and align, if that doesn't get rid of the floaty then may be time to look at the box, which is definitely seeping.

and to think you almost reassigned the General before the singing and dancing got started. Thanks for the gasket tips. experience speaks loudly.

 

[majdomo]

and to think you almost reassigned the General before the singing and dancing got started. Thanks for the gasket tips. experience speaks loudly.

Exactly!

The experience here isn't mine, though - it was @65swb45 Mark's recommendation

 

[majdomo]

General is down at Cruiser Tech in Laguna Hills for the spa treatment rear main seal replacement, got a good recommendation from @HKforte. Place is pretty legit, lots of gear for off-roading, looks like they can do just about anything for you. Spent the rest of the morning with the characters on Metrolink getting back up to LA. Picking up sometime mid-week. Excited!

Shopping for camping gear, anyone have a recommendation for a good mess kit other than the USGI stainless?

 

[majdomo]

Shop notes: the lines were a little rusty..

However... looks like this is leaking. Take a look at all that silicone, I don't know how you do this instead of just replace the seal.

And the lump out of the rig. Halfway done.

 

[majdomo]

Rig is back, no leaks finally but the valves seem sort of loud, going to adjust those tomorrow. Shop also welded a crack on the boss for the H2 / N / L2 lever on the trans, and replaced a missing bolt which was causing an exhaust leak while they were in there.

Reinstalled the passenger side OEM window regulator and tossed the aftermarket junk in the trash. Ordered a bunch of parts from @jkdur728, excited for those to come. Overall just odds and ends, nothing super serious but all things that are improving the truck.

 

[majdomo]

Valves adjusted. Only one was meaningfully off, set them cold first then rechecked and reset when hot. Clickety-clack was still there, but a bit less than before. I did an oil change with 6 quarts 15w40 Rotella and 1 quart MMO, it was well due for one. Will see how the MMO does. Old oil looked pretty ok, no big chunks of anything and the valve train looked basically how I left it last July.

Gearing up for smog check next week.

 

[MWM1]

Valves adjusted. Only one was meaningfully off, set them cold first then rechecked and reset when hot. Clickety-clack was still there, but a bit less than before. I did an oil change with 6 quarts 15w40 Rotella and 1 quart MMO, it was well due for one. Will see how the MMO does. Old oil looked pretty ok, no big chunks of anything and the valve train looked basically how I left it last July.

Gearing up for smog check next week.

What gap did you use for cold? I’m only familiar with the FSM hot. How does it compare?
Ty!

 

[RevISK]

What gap did you use for cold? I’m only familiar with the FSM hot. How does it compare?
Ty!

I’ve been told that “Go/No Go” feeler gauges work for cold and hot tolerances, with the “Go” being hot and… you get the point.