Aftermarket Catalytic Converter Database
ssl.arb.ca.gov
Eastern 863504 is only direct fit I know of.
Last edited:
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Thanks - cursory online search turned up none for sale. May get a couple of Walker 80901 CARB universal fits and take them to my local muffler guy to install some flanges on flared ends, assuming it goes there. Rockauto had them for about $550 each, yikes.Aftermarket Catalytic Converter Database
ssl.arb.ca.gov
Eastern 863504 is only direct fit I know of.
Comp #s are consistent with what you said: high-mileage engine but in good condition.
The High-detergent diesel oil (I'd run a 20w50 with those comp #s) is a good choice to clean out some of the sludge/carbon. If you're thinking of one of those engine type flushes, don't.
Also, I thought the 3FE took a different spark plug, a W16.. ? But not sure as I don't have a 3FE...
Good call, will check into it!While the plugs are out, you might consider a cheap smart-phone type boroscope (if you don't already have one), to check the cylinder walls, since you're baselining the truck...
LED High Def ones are around $25 now on Amz.
Finally got a chance to get after it today. The intake came off mostly drama-free, save for the constant dripping gas from the fuel line and fuel rail. Finally remembered to loosen up the gas cap to relieve pressure in the fuel system and that stopped the leaking. I didn't take many photos of the tear down, it was pretty straightforward spending time just labeling things. Pulled the injectors and looks like the very tip of the pintle cap on #2 fell off, not sure when but it looks like it happened some time ago. The pintle cap on #1 completely disintegrated upon disassembly, but it happened outside the motor so that's all good. The rest of them were ok. Hoping the rebuilder can put new ones on.
Cleaned most of the caked-on crap from the intake side of the head, then pulled the valve cover to find this treasure:
View attachment 3328020
Valve cover looks no better:
View attachment 3328021
Valve cover cleaned up mostly with some degreaser, but it's still pretty caked on. From what I've read this comes from short trips and infrequent oil changes. I haven't done a compression test to see if the rings are bad, will try to do that maybe tomorrow if I can figure out how to disconnect power to the fuel system (hoping it's not the same fuse as the starter).
More parts:
View attachment 3328022
Cursory vacuum test on the EGR valve shows it not holding vacuum, even after replacing the solenoid. This may need replacing but will check on the proper diagnostic for the 3FE later. EDIT - I was testing it incorrectly, holds vacuum just fine. Phew!
View attachment 3328023
More parts picked up - bumpers for the hood, a new rear light bar, spark plugs, few other odds and ends. Also tested the throttle position sensor off the intake and can't get it within spec, so that probably needs replacing too. All good fun.
Looks good in there. Did it have a HG leak or need a head refresh?See post #18 in this thread 1985 3FE Swapped FJ60, a Refresh - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1985-3fe-swapped-fj60-a-refresh.1309046/ This is a 3FE that has ca. 250k miles on it, has had regular oil changes using Rotella 10-40 for the most part, sometimes Chevron or Mobil diesel oil.
This is the way. I just need to get myself over to the 'Mart and pick some up.Going to clean this up, run some diesel oil for a couple of oil changes to try and clean up some of the carbon gunk,
I agree with the other reply - don't run diesel in your oil, and skip other additives.
Walmart has lots of diesel oils in the handy 15w-40 weight that are lighter than 20w-50 and inexpensive. I would buy these oils, drive it, and maybe change it every 2000 miles until the engine cleans itself up.
got to wrestle with the filter from the PO's gorilla oil tech. Why tf do people do that....
Lol