Builds Gen. Waverly (5 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Last edited:
More sleuthing today - ECU is showing code 51, which is the throttle position sensor. Will run the diagnostic listed in the 3FE FSM and report back whether throwing more parts is necessary.

TL;DR - I can see why this not working can contribute to it failing smog. If the ECU is getting the wrong signal (or no signal) from the TPS, it might throw off a whole bunch of other things. Still going to do the parts that are coming and send the injectors out for cleaning, but will do all of that and then make a call on whether I re-test before or after the bigger $ on the cats. All the other work needs to happen in order to get to the gross valve cover and pushrod gaskets to clean up the oil leaks anyway.

Results:

VTA-E2 at 0mm - 0.798 kohms (spec is 0.3-6.3kohms)
IDL-E2 at .77mm - infinite (spec is >2.3kohms)
IDL-E2 at 1.09mm - infinite (spec is infinite)
VTA-E2 at WOT - 4.9kohms (spec is 3.5-10.3kohms)
VC-E2 - 6.3kohms (spec is 4.25-8.25kohms)

It looks like that one IDL circuit is toast. I tried getting the sensor off the TB with it on the engine, but the lower screw is really tough to access and practically frozen in place, so the head is now shot. And if the intake is coming off anyway, parts throwing in 3, 2, 1...
 
Last edited:
Finally got a chance to get after it today. The intake came off mostly drama-free, save for the constant dripping gas from the fuel line and fuel rail. Finally remembered to loosen up the gas cap to relieve pressure in the fuel system and that stopped the leaking. I didn't take many photos of the tear down, it was pretty straightforward spending time just labeling things. Pulled the injectors and looks like the very tip of the pintle cap on #2 fell off, not sure when but it looks like it happened some time ago. The pintle cap on #1 completely disintegrated upon disassembly, but it happened outside the motor so that's all good. The rest of them were ok. Hoping the rebuilder can put new ones on.

Cleaned most of the caked-on crap from the intake side of the head, then pulled the valve cover to find this treasure:

IMG_4576.jpeg


Valve cover looks no better:

IMG_4575.jpeg


Valve cover cleaned up mostly with some degreaser, but it's still pretty caked on. From what I've read this comes from short trips and infrequent oil changes. I haven't done a compression test to see if the rings are bad, will try to do that maybe tomorrow if I can figure out how to disconnect power to the fuel system (hoping it's not the same fuse as the starter).

More parts:

IMG_4578.jpeg


Cursory vacuum test on the EGR valve shows it not holding vacuum, even after replacing the solenoid. This may need replacing but will check on the proper diagnostic for the 3FE later. EDIT - I was testing it incorrectly, holds vacuum just fine. Phew!

IMG_4579.jpeg


More parts picked up - bumpers for the hood, a new rear light bar, spark plugs, few other odds and ends. Also tested the throttle position sensor off the intake and can't get it within spec, so that probably needs replacing too. All good fun.
 
Last edited:
Abbreviated session today but got some good work in. First compression test, of course these were done on a stone cold engine. Suggests motor is tired but may improve slightly when warm. Did this both dry and wet, son helping out:

IMG_4583.jpeg


120 sounds like minimum acceptable per FSM, so we are running with this for now until I decide what to do next on the rig. Pulled plugs and they look mostly in line with the exception of #3, in order 1-6:

IMG_4580.jpeg


Closer look at #3:

IMG_4582.jpeg


So this isn't the best, but it's probably also not the worst. Going to clean this up, run some diesel oil for a couple of oil changes to try and clean up some of the carbon gunk, get the valves adjusted once it's back together and then reassess.

I was also able to fix the horn contact, this was pretty easy but watch that little C-clip, it wants to fly everywhere even with my small hemostat holding it in place. Some gray Scotchbrite on the steering wheel and dielectric grease on the contacts and we were good to go. Showing new next to old for reference:

IMG_4584.jpeg


Hazard switch was also hacked back together. The little plastic pin that sits in the switch recess had snapped, patched this up with a screw lying around the workbench after drilling a pilot hole so that the plastic stick that moves the switch doesn't crack.

IMG_4585.jpeg


Have some work stuff to get to today. Injectors are all bagged up and ready to send to InjectorRX. Ordered more gaskets / parts yesterday for pickup next weekend. May have this back together by end of the weekend next week if all goes well.
 
Comp #s are consistent with what you said: high-mileage engine but in good condition.

The High-detergent diesel oil (I'd run a 20w50 with those comp #s) is a good choice to clean out some of the sludge/carbon. If you're thinking of one of those engine type flushes, don't.

Also, I thought the 3FE took a different spark plug, a W16.. ? But not sure as I don't have a 3FE...
 
Comp #s are consistent with what you said: high-mileage engine but in good condition.

The High-detergent diesel oil (I'd run a 20w50 with those comp #s) is a good choice to clean out some of the sludge/carbon. If you're thinking of one of those engine type flushes, don't.

Also, I thought the 3FE took a different spark plug, a W16.. ? But not sure as I don't have a 3FE...

Thanks, agreed. Also worth noting that we are at 2250' elevation, so the numbers are a tad better than what they read up here. I re-researched Seafoam for half a minute to see if it changed my mind about it being snake oil. My mind is not changed. :)

The PO's mechanic put in the wrong plugs. I have W16s from the dealer on the bench waiting to be installed. I should also pop the distributor cap and get a new one of those, check the rotor, replace wires, the usual stuff.

Appreciate the rec on the oil. 20w50 should do nicely.
 
While the plugs are out, you might consider a cheap smart-phone type boroscope (if you don't already have one), to check the cylinder walls, since you're baselining the truck...

LED High Def ones are around $25 now on Amz.
 
While the plugs are out, you might consider a cheap smart-phone type boroscope (if you don't already have one), to check the cylinder walls, since you're baselining the truck...

LED High Def ones are around $25 now on Amz.
Good call, will check into it!
 
New throttle position sensor is on the intake and positioned correctly, cleaned and checked. This wasn't terrible once I'd gotten the sensor positioned correctly on the manifold. Before that was rather frustrating...

IMG_4590.jpeg


Big parts pile for the weekend. Every small vacuum hose is getting swapped out, if I can manage it. LFG!!

IMG_4591.jpeg
 
Hah - the throttle position sensor was on totally wrong. Had to readjust it on the bench before installing. Done, but what a pain.

Spent a bunch of time cleaning today, de-gunking the valves, valve cover, various hoses, etc. It's all back together and running, but with a slightly high idle and throwing code 11 (ECU continuity). I'll get under there again tomorrow to get it all adjusted.

First up, the valves. I got in there with a pick and a Shop Vac to pick up the sludge pieces. It doesn't look a whole lot different but there was a lot that was picked up in the cleanup process. Running some diesel oil should clean up more of the sludge. However, after running the engine a bit and then shutting it down, I could hear the oil draining back into the pan, which is a good thing and reminded me of my FJ40 after it was done with its head debacle.

IMG_4592.jpeg


Next up was the valve cover. I replaced the PCV valve and the formed hose coming off the valve with OEM, but I wanted to make sure I got most of the garbage that was clogging it up in the first place. This was after a solid hour of cleaning with carb cleaner and a pick.

IMG_4593.jpeg


Next up was reassembly of the fuel rail and injectors. I had the injectors rebuilt by a shop locally, and then reinstalled everything along with replacing the fuel pressure regulator and the damper, both with OEM. Just for grins I took the plastic lid off my original damper, and the screw was lying there backed out fully from the unit. I have no idea what it was doing for me, or if it was even working... wonder if this had anything to do with my smog??

IMG_4595.jpeg


Here's the fuel pressure regulator I bought from Partslane (Dubai). It's a slightly different part number and it puts the vacuum port like directly in line with the air rail, but was able to figure it out.

IMG_4594.jpeg


That's it for now. The truck is running great, doesn't smell rich but it does run at a high-ish idle (1100 RPM in park) so will be getting after that sometime tomorrow. I think it's probably a throttle cable issue, since it was fine before I took it apart. Thankfully will not be pulling this all apart again, I had forgotten to mark which cylinders each injector plug mapped to. Turns out I guessed right. :) That would suck...

EDIT - high idle was a tight throttle cable. Loosened up and idle drops right to 650, where it should be. This is an improvement on what I saw a few weeks ago with the smog tech, who couldn't get it down to 700 without putting it in D. Also checked and no codes in the ECU - the only code it had before was 51, which was the TPS, so this is cleared and fixed. Phew.
 
Last edited:
So more poking around under the hood revealed a significant vacuum leak right at the cold start injector. I didn't remember this being a problem, but sure enough the injector itself was all mangled and bent. The inlet was a good 5 degrees out of line with the injector that sticks into the manifold, and the plate that secures it to the manifold was all bent and creating a gap (and a vacuum leak). I don't know if was broken before, or manhandled by my rebuilder, but it needs replacing.

IMG_4597.jpeg


Searching on Mud revealed a Carter replacement that you can maybe find out there online, but I wasn't able to find one. Next step was thinking on other models from a similar time period that might have a CSI that could work. Most of them are variations on the same theme - some longer, some shorter; some have the injector socket pointing to the left, others to the right; some have a line stop right in the way of where the fuel line comes up from the rail. I was able to find one from a 1991 Camry (4 cyl) at the local pick-a-part that has generally the right orientation, but the injector "stick" itself is a lot shorter. This was $16, used ones with the correct P/N run $130 and up.

For posterity in case this works out, the Camry injector part number is 23260-74030.

IMG_4596.jpeg


I've installed and tested, no more vacuum leak and it fires right up. I don't know if this is a permanent fix, but will ride with this for a little while and see if it creates any hard-start problems. Hoping it'll be fine until the weather turns colder later in the fall.

I also pulled a relay for the turn signals out of a different Camry. The turn signal part 81980-16010 is available new for like $50 or something, but it's also super common across models of that time period, so while I was there I just yanked one and for $8 was done. I have turn signals and, yes, hazards too!

$8 for a used relay. Pick-a-part prices have gotten nuts. Times were that I could pull a few parts I needed and a few others to sell. Now, it's barely worth going, but this trip was productive.
 
Last edited:
Going to clean this up, run some diesel oil for a couple of oil changes to try and clean up some of the carbon gunk,

I agree with the other reply - don't run diesel in your oil, and skip other additives.

Walmart has lots of diesel oils in the handy 15w-40 weight that are lighter than 20w-50 and inexpensive. I would buy these oils, drive it, and maybe change it every 2000 miles until the engine cleans itself up.
 
Finally got a chance to get after it today. The intake came off mostly drama-free, save for the constant dripping gas from the fuel line and fuel rail. Finally remembered to loosen up the gas cap to relieve pressure in the fuel system and that stopped the leaking. I didn't take many photos of the tear down, it was pretty straightforward spending time just labeling things. Pulled the injectors and looks like the very tip of the pintle cap on #2 fell off, not sure when but it looks like it happened some time ago. The pintle cap on #1 completely disintegrated upon disassembly, but it happened outside the motor so that's all good. The rest of them were ok. Hoping the rebuilder can put new ones on.

Cleaned most of the caked-on crap from the intake side of the head, then pulled the valve cover to find this treasure:

View attachment 3328020

Valve cover looks no better:

View attachment 3328021

Valve cover cleaned up mostly with some degreaser, but it's still pretty caked on. From what I've read this comes from short trips and infrequent oil changes. I haven't done a compression test to see if the rings are bad, will try to do that maybe tomorrow if I can figure out how to disconnect power to the fuel system (hoping it's not the same fuse as the starter).

More parts:

View attachment 3328022

Cursory vacuum test on the EGR valve shows it not holding vacuum, even after replacing the solenoid. This may need replacing but will check on the proper diagnostic for the 3FE later. EDIT - I was testing it incorrectly, holds vacuum just fine. Phew!

View attachment 3328023

More parts picked up - bumpers for the hood, a new rear light bar, spark plugs, few other odds and ends. Also tested the throttle position sensor off the intake and can't get it within spec, so that probably needs replacing too. All good fun.

See post #18 in this thread 1985 3FE Swapped FJ60, a Refresh - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1985-3fe-swapped-fj60-a-refresh.1309046/ This is a 3FE that has ca. 250k miles on it, has had regular oil changes using Rotella 10-40 for the most part, sometimes Chevron or Mobil diesel oil.
 
See post #18 in this thread 1985 3FE Swapped FJ60, a Refresh - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1985-3fe-swapped-fj60-a-refresh.1309046/ This is a 3FE that has ca. 250k miles on it, has had regular oil changes using Rotella 10-40 for the most part, sometimes Chevron or Mobil diesel oil.
Looks good in there. Did it have a HG leak or need a head refresh?

Mine is about as crusty on the outside, but a little more crispy inside. Going to throw some good diesel oil in there and swap it out every 1-2K miles.

I got the sense that the PO drove this on a lot of short trips, which would contribute to the low mileage and stickyicky inside.
 
Going to clean this up, run some diesel oil for a couple of oil changes to try and clean up some of the carbon gunk,

I agree with the other reply - don't run diesel in your oil, and skip other additives.

Walmart has lots of diesel oils in the handy 15w-40 weight that are lighter than 20w-50 and inexpensive. I would buy these oils, drive it, and maybe change it every 2000 miles until the engine cleans itself up.
This is the way. :) I just need to get myself over to the 'Mart and pick some up.

I briefly looked at Liqui-Moly's engine flush, which got good reviews, but think the slow and sure method is probably for the best.
 
Oil changed to Rotella T6 15w40 with a D3 filter. Filter's a bit small for my liking but that's ok, it'll get changed out in the next 500 miles or so anyway. Plenty of sludgy goodness at the bottom of the oil drain pan, got to wrestle with the filter from the PO's gorilla oil tech. Why tf do people do that, it just doesn't take that much torque...
 
Tried getting after the reverse lights repair today. Started by pulling the neutral safety switch off the trans, not my favorite design as the switch was a little bit fused to the post sticking out the side of the trans. Used a flat blade screwdriver to break it free. Pulled it apart, watch for those little springs that want to go flying out of the armature. Found one of the contacts had a nice little notch in it, used some sandpaper to round it out a little further.

IMG_4599.jpeg


A detail shot of the springs. As I started putting the armature back together, I didn't notice picking up both springs kind of intertwined with each other, and stuck both of them back in the arm. I started then looking for the second spring, and spent 30 minutes crawling around on the floor looking for the second spring (which was stuck in the arm...) Anyway, figured that out and started putting the whole thing back together.

IMG_4600.jpeg


Detail of the inside of the switch. Cleaned this up with some sandpaper and put back together with some new stainless screws, the ones on there originally were fairly rusted. Had to cut slots in 2 of the heads to get them to break free.

IMG_4601.jpeg


IMG_4602.jpeg


Reinstalled, made sure that the post was lined up with the scribed line on the housing, reconnected all the lines and made sure the rig started up, which it did just fine. However, no reverse lights. Next thing to check is the continuity on the wires to see if there's a break somewhere.

I also found the following plug down below, just hanging out down here not plugged into anything. I can't find what would be the socket for this plug, if anyone knows what this is would be great to know.

IMG_4605.jpeg


Was also able to pick up a proper 3FE cold start injector today, so that is ready to go in case this other one doesn't work out.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom