Builds Gen. Waverly

[majdomo]

Alright. So I may have been overreacting slightly on Friday. I decided to run some Liqui-Moly engine flush and dump the oil, which made it somewhat better / quieter but that's it. I don't think it hurt anything, but the oil did come out pretty gross.

However, it's still running rich. Eyes burn a bit when standing near the exhaust while it's idling. The last few things I can think of are O2 sensors and the cats, or maybe the ISV. Will check the ISV according to the FSM this afternoon. It does need an alternator at some point, and probably your usual plug wires / dist cap / rotor, but those are working ok so far even though its probably a real drain on the battery.

 

[Spike Strip]

If exhaust has a foul smell and burns your eyes, it's likely lean. Lean exhaust is very toxic. Rich exhaust smells like gasoline

 

[majdomo]

If exhaust has a foul smell and burns your eyes, it's likely lean. Lean exhaust is very toxic. Rich exhaust smells like gasoline

Rechecked earlier tonight and it smells like...exhaust. Not foul really, just like sticking your nose near a tailpipe. A little eye-watering but not as bad as it was yesterday. More checking later. It HAS stopped smoking, however, so that's a win.

Intermittent miss showed up after buttoning it all up yesterday. I think I did that to #3 when reinstalling the plug wire, it wasn't pressing on all the way so I kind of squashed it a bit with some pliers to get it to grip better. Wires, dist cap, rotor on the way. Also checked the ISC per the FSM and that seems to check out fine.

 

[Spike Strip]

@ToyotaMatt

What are the symptoms if an ECU is faulty ?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

@ToyotaMatt

What are the symptoms if an ECU is faulty ?

yes Alfred the CZAR ,..............




this is what happens when MY ECU is fauly ./.......


.

.

.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

if anyone was NOT aware , Alfred the White , AKA @Spike Strip is now a MUD JR. Mod the offical SMOG CZAR !

the right man was chosen !

any DE-smog chatter will be promptly Snuffed OUT !

Any active real time De Smogging .......

Alf loves his California Clean AiR Act Decals running lean on all his more then oxygenated Petrol !

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



- but .... all new smog-czar aside for a moment here :

- regarding : 1/75-1990 2F , 3F carb & 3FE

- i both personally and professionally consider @Spike Strip to indeed be this most single source of the wide range broad brush wisdom IE: topic of by the FSM accurate and also applied practical in 2023 regarding : FEDERAL , HIGH ALTITUDE , & CALIFORNIA factory emissions control systems and system by system specific system individual parts components ....... i have had the privilege to be able to interact ,with , discuss and indeed learn a new 1000+ things or 2 from him over the years on this often super confusing technical topic as a whole , often filled with Grandmas Wise Tails , & both Urban & Suburban legends ....

Thank You ! @Spike Strip AKA : Alfred the White , formally now : The " MUD SMOG Czar " ..

 

[majdomo]

Have new downpipes ready to roll courtesy of @Spike Strip , with new O2 sensors and exhaust gaskets inbound.

Also have some cats on the way. Keep it clean, kids. Also

 

[majdomo]

I'm also going to take another, closer look at the AI system later this afternoon. The more research I do on this problem, the more it looks like this may be malfunctioning too. The 0% oxygen on both tests is making me question whether that is working as it should.

Lots of new parts on this already, what's a few more...

 

[Spike Strip]

If your O2 is zero percent, particularly using oxygenated summer blend gasoline, that's definitely an issue, but I'd wait until you get the new Oxy sensors in there before diving into it. You might consider getting that smog pump rebuilt, if you want to shotgun it, and while there's parts/rebuilder available.

Beyond that, I know next to nothing about how the 3FE handles emissions.

 

[majdomo]

If your O2 is zero percent, particularly using oxygenated summer blend gasoline, that's definitely an issue, but I'd wait until you get the new Oxy sensors in there before diving into it. You might consider getting that smog pump rebuilt, if you want to shotgun it, and while there's parts/rebuilder available.

Beyond that, I know next to nothing about how the 3FE handles emissions.

The smog pump generates plenty of breeze, but it may still not be enough. I want to confirm for sure that the ABV is not stuck and want to test that more thoroughly.

 

[Spike Strip]

FWIW, and I think I mentioned this when you got the downpipes, when I got my first 60, I had my smog pump rebuilt from some outfit in Camarillo (The Rebuilding Factory - now out of business), that was supposed to be excellent. I still had zero O2 for years and the pump seemed to be putting out plenty of puff using the thumb over the tube method.

When I finally switched to the BZ pump, the O2 numbers went up to normal for a carb'd engine. I also noticed a significant output increase for the pump with the same thumb/puff test.

I think the first pump was not able to overcome the backpressure of the Air Injection check valves. FSM calls for at least 7 in of pressure for the 2F.

Good luck!

 

[majdomo]

FWIW, and I think I mentioned this when you got the downpipes, when I got my first 60, I had my smog pump rebuilt from some outfit in Camarillo (The Rebuilding Factory - now out of business), that was supposed to be excellent. I still had zero O2 for years and the pump seemed to be putting out plenty of puff using the thumb over the tube method.

When I finally switched to the BZ pump, the O2 numbers went up to normal for a carb'd engine. I also noticed a significant output increase for the pump with the same thumb/puff test.

I think the first pump was not able to overcome the backpressure of the Air Injection check valves. FSM calls for at least 7 in of pressure for the 2F.

Good luck!

Agreed - checking the ABV tonight. Called and apparently B-Z does alternators, rack and pinion, smog pumps, all kinds of rebuilds. Right around the corner from K&H (and SOR, for that matter).

EDIT: ABV checks out. Pressure is a bit of a question, however. The FSM states pressure should be about 5.8-8 psi, my wonky pressure checker is saying 7 psi (probably?)

 

[majdomo]

Plugs and rotor replaced, got the wrong cap (1 vacuum port instead of 2), so will need to order up another one of those. Still getting that weird rough idle, will have to check for cracks in the intake hoses. Seems like that is a common item when this issue comes up. EDIT - hoses are good, funny enough. Latest thinking is that this might be related to the O2 sensors? It's the last thing to swap, practically...

Finally got a TLCA membership, letting my BMWCCA membership lapse. Spent a bunch of time this morning replacing the window regulator in the 135, works fine now but what a pain. Lots of fettling. No more frameless windows for me.

PO reached out via text, "how's she running??" Uhh....

 

[majdomo]

Rusty bolts be damned, I'm pulling the downpipes and installing cats. I was able to pull the bolts from the rear of the two exhaust ports, and was able to pull this rusty goodness from the rig. Both of these look fairly old, if not original to the rig. The bolts certainly were JIS that held the cat on to the rest of the Y-pipe - beefy 10mm-ish bolt with a 14mm head, very low pitch, probably 1.00. Is the yellow plug on the O2 sensor a Denso thing?

This looks like it had rusted apart, and potentially starting an exhaust leak? Not sure... but you shouldn't be able to see the gasket in between like that. Also just noticing that big long crack along the O2 sensor, wonder if that had anything to do with how I was running...

A look inside the cat. I don't know much about these, but they might be fine. I was expecting to see a blackened mess. I'm hanging on to them for now.

And one more look at the O2 sensor and threads on the bung. Doubtful these were coming off in one piece, there's practically no nut left to speak of.

I was able to get this one replaced with the parts I have on hand. I'm hung up on a really bad rusted-on exhaust stud nut that had been soaking the last few days in PB, then rounded off when I hit it with the ratchet. Wonderful. Exhaust work is the worst.

 

[majdomo]

Day 2. Done but man what a nightmare. This was several trips to the hardware store to buy new Dremel bits, lots of patience, tapping with a hammer, more patience, futzing, etc. Fortunately I was able to get this nut off the exhaust manifold stud without boogering up the threads. I ran a die on it when finished just to straighten things out, but it was totally fine when I was finished with it. Take a look at this hot mess, the one on the left is there for reference:

But wait, there's more...

Felt very lucky to avoid having to replace the stud after that debacle. This one had one additional surprise for me, too, with the last bolt to remove from the cat and Y-pipe fused together like they were welded. I had to break those up too. More Dremel action.

Here's what it looked like once removed. I will hang on to the cats but they are probably just good for scrap at this point.

Test drive after install turned up some smoking from the new parts, a wire sheath that was making contact with the exhaust pipe where I need to reinstall a zip tie, and that was about it. My rough idle is still there, so that's disappointing, but the exhaust smells like catalyzed exhaust now so that's a good thing. Will look to retest probably sometime next week.

Tired and sore from rolling around on the concrete under the rig. Need a day off, fortunately tomorrow is the holiday.

 

[majdomo]

Valves are adjusted, timing is set. Timing window is exactly the same as on the 2F but way more inconvenient with all the other stuff in the way. Spent some more time trying to figure out my idle stumble, which is audible and visible on the tach but not too noticeable on my timing light. EDIT - also cleaned IAC valve, was carbon'd up but functional. No change.

Going to give it a go on smog in then next week or so, and see where we end up.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Valves are adjusted, timing is set. Timing window is exactly the same as on the 2F but way more inconvenient with all the other stuff in the way. Spent some more time trying to figure out my idle stumble, which is audible and visible on the tach but not too noticeable on my timing light. EDIT - also cleaned IAC valve, was carbon'd up but functional. No change.

Going to give it a go on smog in then next week or so, and see where we end up.

Solid goodness on the exhaust install there !

- base idle issue :

- make a more then hands free visual inspection all 6 sides here , using a small round telescoping mirror on a stick ( car antenna type ) the Lisle brand / Professional Technicians grade tool aisle at advance auto if you do not have one .or .NAPA pro-tools too , my local NAPA in town here is also the home store for my commercial mechanical shop's Rep. too , he told me that the reason they now carry and offer some CRAFTSMAN brand stuff , is because the need is out there now , & cashing in the the whole lack of a SEARS in every town now has opened up the opportunity for NAPA to expand its own store brand line up of specialty automotive hand tools and beyond at the same time now too , and this is a good thing from my perspective ,

- because having to resort to a HOME DEPOT husky brand needed wrenching topic need is a negative experience at best ...

- the male and female 4-pin electrical connector plugs at both the coil and ignition assy. up on passenger side front fender location behind the air box sorta hidden down there too , and also the same 2 at the Distributor also , OEM factory originals are a light lime green color ....

- these late 1980;s - early 1990's waterproof-sealed-type era connector housings are very well designed all and all , but suffer from 2 main currently available technology lacking at the time design flaws , UV rays , and petroleum related chemical resistance....

- not sure either if OEM YAZAKI , SUMITOMO , & TE / AMP engineers had a 33 years service life expectancy discussion at the lunch break table then ?

- the results of either topic on the nylon housings can and does occur from both a inside out and or a outside in decay , this alone can cause the needed clear signals to be of one or more of the wires involved here to be interrupted , hence the stumbling base idle variations .

- i know this topic well because GHOST had the same issue upon day one home in the shop drive , i did all the normal stuff , Major tune up , cap rotor wires plugs etc , cleaned throttle body , PCV valve & grommet , hunted for any Vacuum leaks etc ... still the stumbling base idle issue was there ,,,,,,, ?

- not till i actually stuck my hands down to see if my little SNAP-ON dizzy lock down bolt SST. would work on a SUPER BIG CAP Land Cruiser 19100- , did i see this visually , the oil filter oil when you spin off the filter without creating the T-TEN bird's nest i show in my 4-part oil change step by steps tech video series , caused those 2 connectors to have bare terminals showing ,yet parst still coupled normally , i then inspected the pair at the igniter location , UV rays damage and the beginning of the
" potato chips to ashes and dust crumble " had began to begin , the 2 at the dizzy were way worse , i replaced both sets at same time ......

- when the ignition sequence start was applied post repair , i had to wait till the cold fast idle came down as it should to warn normally base ide , presto ! smooth & purring ....

- i then realized i had not checked and adjusted the timing yet , the connectors topic distracted me the moment i laid eyes on them at the dizzy ....

- upon doing then to FSM spec. per the HARD to see BB timing mark window box as you also found a B#tch to use

- i had a simple 52mm full sweep Vacuum Gurage hooked up as i normally do , and it suggested me to tweak the dizzy about 1/4" beyond the BB and marking pin there , maybe 1-1.5 degrees at most , since then ZERO base idle stumbling , even with now needed A/C system on at all times ...


these TECH pics below hopefully help ....

matt

 

[majdomo]

- not till i actually stuck my hands down to see if my little SNAP-ON dizzy lock down bolt SST. would work on a SUPER BIG CAP Land Cruiser 19100- , did i see this visually , the oil filter oil when you spin off the filter without creating the T-TEN bird's nest i show in my 4-part oil change step by steps tech video series , caused those 2 connectors to have bare terminals showing ,yet parst still coupled normally , i then inspected the pair at the igniter location , UV rays damage and the beginning of the
" potato chips to ashes and dust crumble " had began to begin , the 2 at the dizzy were way worse , i replaced both sets at same time ......

I am going to check this later tonight, see what I can see. I'm guessing OK but maybe not, it is old plastic as you say.

UPDATE - these are generally fine, sort of dirty but working ok. Did not try to separate for fear of breaking up old plastic bits after securing my win as detailed in the next post.

 

[majdomo]

ROUGH IDLE VICTORY

Details matter. Take a look at plug #1, bought these directly from the dealer but didn't look that closely at them before install. It also *may* have been dropped, can't be sure... but it certainly is NOT at the OEM FSM spec of 0.8mm... gapped the rest of them for measure and they were all slightly tight. Put all back, fired up, and she purrs like a kitten with just a hair more advance than 7* BTDC as noted by @ToyotaMatt and rock solid steady under the light instead of bouncing around like a cheap rubber ball.

Feels good when the simple stuff works, y'know?? Readjusted the golden screw back to 0 turns out and idle came right down to 650 warm. Awesome.

 

[majdomo]

Reverse light win for today! This one brought to you by none other than @ToyotaMatt and Vintage Teq Parts - NSS sourced and replaced! One great vendor of many for quality parts! MUD has the best community, hands down and bar none.

Quick edit on this one - replacing the NSS also seems to have remedied the AT temp sensor idiot light coming on, even if the rig is started from cold. From my read of the wiring schematic in the FSM, these are not necessarily directly connected, but may share a common ground or something (??). Will continue to monitor but it's been off and stayed off the last few times I've driven the truck.