Builds Gen. Waverly

[cruisermatt]

That plug isn’t used on any FJ62 I have seen.

 

[majdomo]

That plug isn’t used on any FJ62 I have seen.

Thanks. I couldn't find it on any wiring schematic, and searching other 62 threads with undercarriage shots turned up additional confirmation that this is an appendix from...something. Will zip tie it up and out of the way when I get back under there to test the backup plugs coming off the sensor.

 

[cruisermatt]

Thanks. I couldn't find it on any wiring schematic, and searching other 62 threads with undercarriage shots turned up additional confirmation that this is an appendix from...something. Will zip tie it up and out of the way when I get back under there to test the backup plugs coming off the sensor.

I should clarify, all FJ62’s have them, just not plugged into anything.

 

[majdomo]

Some good work done this evening - replaced gear selector bushings, which cleaned up the slop in my gear selector and tightened things up considerably. Did not, however, fix my reverse light issue. That appears to be a problem with the neutral safety switch wiring, potentially, since I'm able to get tone on the multimeter through the other end of the plug. I may pull that off again this weekend and check into it a little more closely.

The other thing was replacing the mast on my antenna. This now works just fine, after I almost screwed it up completely by taking the motor apart. DON'T DO THIS. It's a giant pain to put the brushes back in, and was lucky to get it to work after pulling it apart. Stupid stupid. But it works now, with the switch on the dash. It makes a clicking noise at either end of travel, but from what I've read this is normal. This didn't happen on the 97 FZJ80, however, so wasn't sure.

It's also developed a new oil leak at the front of the motor, only thing I can think of is that the diesel oil is doing its thing and, uh, cleaning things. Will attempt to figure out if it's just the crank seal, the timing cover seal, or if I need to go the Full Monty and pull the camshaft to get at that stupid gasket behind the front plate. I want to pull the alternator anyway and get it rebuilt, it's only putting out 13.1v at idle.

Next up is a second attempt at smog, probably Saturday.

 

[majdomo]

Second attempt at smog today ended up with the same results - gross polluter, with all levels at the same spot as before. This time, though, for added excitement, a chunk of sludge that flew onto the exhaust manifold decided to catch fire, prompting the smog tech to break out the fire extinguisher and put that out. What fun.

The next things to check were the MAF and EGR valve. Testing the MAF using the procedure in the FSM showed that it was definitely not working, so this could be a significant reason why the rig is running rich. I was able to source a replacement part interchange with a 1993 Camry from the junkyard. For $50 that worked out well. EDIT: Part number for future reference: 22250-62040. Remans available from Cardone if needed. Also, here's a thread: 1991 maf interchange.

Second part today was the EGR. Vacuum check with the smog tech showed that the diaphragm didn't move when putting vacuum on it, and it didn't hold vacuum at all, quickly dropping from 15 to 0. I was able to get a replacement from @Deathvalleypaul, since he's local and happens to have a few 3FE parts kicking around right now. Cleaning it out, and trying to figure out how to pull the pipe off the old EGR valve body to install with the new valve. Right now it's marinating with some PBlaster, will get after it some more tomorrow.

I didn't actually think it would pass today, but I did want to see where things sat after all this work. Looks like there's still some ways to go.

 

[Deathvalleypaul]

Majdomo is on the right track. For those of you who don't know, I have a garage full of engine parts from the 3FE engine and everything else under hood.

 

[majdomo]

New EGR and MAFs are installed and working fine, no codes being thrown by the ECU so we should be in ok shape. Got after the backup lights again, this time by taking apart the neutral safety switch and checking into the wiring on the switch. I spent some time running out to the junkyard to pull some of those little copper contacts from another neutral safety switch, this time revisiting that same 1993 Camry that I raided for the MAF. I pulled the parts for the wiper and the contacts, but the wiper itself was slightly different and the contacts were way thinner than the ones on the LC. Showing below, Camry on the left, LC on the right.

They measure just about half as thick as the ones on the LC, so I just spent a little time sanding one of them down until they both fit in the slot on the LC wiper. It's sort of a hack but it works fine. You can see the issue with the LC one on the right below - it's just about 0.5mm too short and doesn't make good contact inside the switch.

Anyway, it's back in the rig and it starts up fine, but it didn't solve my reverse light problem. I have continuity coming out of the switch, as well as continuity on the positive side of the line from the blue plug. Next thing to check is the grounds, from what I can tell in the FSM those are in the rear panel somewhere behind the lights themselves. That should be an adventure.

 

[Deathvalleypaul]

Failure to ground is the most typical electric problem I have found on our Landcruisers. I frequently have to add a ground wire to parts that appear to be grounded, the biggest culprit is frequently the engine not being well grounded to the frame or body, or frame and body not grounded together. A few well placed wires out of sight once installed will often overcome intemittent and regular problems. I have seen 40s, 60,s 70s and 80s cured instantly with a single extra ground wire. ( i have no idea what problems the 100 and 200 series have)

 

[majdomo]

Failure to ground is the most typical electric problem I have found on our Landcruisers. I frequently have to add a ground wire to parts that appear to be grounded, the biggest culprit is frequently the engine not being well grounded to the frame or body, or frame and body not grounded together. A few well placed wires out of sight once installed will often overcome intemittent and regular problems. I have seen 40s, 60,s 70s and 80s cured instantly with a single extra ground wire. ( i have no idea what problems the 100 and 200 series have)

To this point - the PO had the starter replaced, but I don't recall seeing a ground strap from the starter to the frame. I'll have to check into that. He also had his mechanic install one of those quick disconnects for the battery, which is very convenient but I don't believe it's making good contact with the fender. Will have to check on the strap from the block to the firewall.

Reminds me that @ToyotaMatt has a very swanky kit for this..

 

[ToyotaMatt]

To this point - the PO had the starter replaced, but I don't recall seeing a ground strap from the starter to the frame. I'll have to check into that. He also had his mechanic install one of those quick disconnects for the battery, which is very convenient but I don't believe it's making good contact with the fender. Will have to check on the strap from the block to the firewall.

Reminds me that @ToyotaMatt has a very swanky kit for this..

i am currently Skunk-Work'ing together a 100% Toyota OEM Japan Spec. parts 3FE de-smog kit for GHOST ...


i have explored the current google results on that topic as a whole , and there is no F ....way im sadleing up my girl with a bunch of crumby Chairman-Mao

getto-grade monkey buisness parts !


you are welcome to any of the final take-off parts , currently all that JIS-JAZZ is in good working order , and all present and accounted for too ....

 

[majdomo]

i am currently Skunk-Work'ing together a 100% Toyota OEM Japan Spec. parts 3FE de-smog kit for GHOST ...


i have explored the current google results on that topic as a whole , and there is no F ....way im sadleing up my girl with a bunch of crumby Chairman-Mao

getto-grade monkey buisness parts !


you are welcome to any of the final take-off parts , currently all that JIS-JAZZ is in good working order , and all present and accounted for too ....

Nice, thank you! PMing!

 

[majdomo]

Welp... that neutral safety switch isn't working again. Getting continuity from the blue plug all the way back to the sockets, and the grounds test good. All 3 grounds in the engine bay look fine as well. Testing the switch as installed on the rig is showing open line when testing the socket side of the plug.

Not sure what to do next, maybe some solder on the old contact to beef it up a bit? Or just buy another dang switch...

EDIT - pulled switch again, added solder to the bottom of the LC contact I pulled the other day, replaced the little spring with one from the Camry wiper, and the switch now works. Lights work by applying battery voltage to the blue connector and grounding to the frame, so no breaks in the line from the switch back to the lights.

No voltage coming from the hot blue line coming off the gray plug connector, next step is to look for breaks in that line up the harness since I'm getting power to the wiper and washer motors. Ugh. However, on the FZJ80, I spent the better part of a weekend pulling the harness apart in the driver door sill to get one of the rear door kick lights to work. I also found at least a couple of corroded connections that I repaired, so it feels like this might be the problem.

 

[majdomo]

Couple quick items tonight before a busy weekend - received and looked to replace the AT temp sensor, but after pulling off the plug and testing continuity on the sensor in there now, it looks like the culprit might be the wiring or a dirty plug rather than the sensor. Plugged the current one back in, and the light shut off on a test drive. Sort of confused but going to put that aside for now.

Second was testing out the EGR and AI system according to the FSM procedures. Looks like the EGR VSV is busted, no reaction from the VSV when testing with battery power, so that is on order. The AI system all checks out fine, VSV, ABV and all, so that's a good thing. Next is to check the dash pot, which doesn't seem super important as relates to the smog test, but will check it anyway.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Couple quick items tonight before a busy weekend - received and looked to replace the AT temp sensor, but after pulling off the plug and testing continuity on the sensor in there now, it looks like the culprit might be the wiring or a dirty plug rather than the sensor. Plugged the current one back in, and the light shut off on a test drive. Sort of confused but going to put that aside for now.

Second was testing out the EGR and AI system according to the FSM procedures. Looks like the EGR VSV is busted, no reaction from the VSV when testing with battery power, so that is on order. The AI system all checks out fine, VSV, ABV and all, so that's a good thing. Next is to check the dash pot, which doesn't seem super important as relates to the smog test, but will check it anyway.

ok ,

this IS the FJ62 ATM temp sensor in question right ?

- ignore the color of the nylon housing , focus on the profile / shape topic ONLY , let me know if i got this one spot on or not ?

- i know the broad brush topic at play here , this sensor in paticular , the all OEM parts solution is in my hand as we speek too ,,,

- i DO have ALL the male and female Connetors related to the FJ62 Neutral safty switch if you need any parts of them in any way ?

- if you need a longer or diffent pitch and orf diamiter spring here i MAY be able to help , my giant PLANO single thick clear tackle box os packed the gills with ONLY oem toyota find ir ROLLING on the dept. floor NOS ground scores and beyond ...

.
- clarify the broken part or parts related to the EGR valve please ?

.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

also , you need to examine with a 2x / 5x combo magifine glass both the TPS and AFM / MAF HARNESS side connector plugs , BOTH were in-fact CRACKED on GHOST when i scooped her up ,. no issues untill i changed the UN-KNOWN thin 5w-30 black tar color SHELL ROTILLA convential motor oil that i was so proudly shown multi-tiers of at the sellers shop metal wall cabinet packed top gills of exactly that " Stuff " ....

- have you re-installed the valve cover yet for good ,, as in done ? or is it finger tight loose still ?

here on east coast at least , at Dealership we ran accros alot of the exact scenerio you did upon popping the lid off like that for a un-related but needed reason to do so , and the first time i was finally granted permission by my first ever Team Leader Team i nick-named Sgt. Scrooge , he gave me a actual fundimental hands-on lesson i will never forget and still use when i need to apply it , the results of a full size-spec. HEPPA-BAG use feature HOSE BELOW the lid , NOT part of it HOME DEPOT shop-vac , " little exhaust port Muffler thinngy " installed too is a MUST , you can carefully and more over safely remove end eliminate a solid 97% of any starting point fosilized fossile fuel based motor oil funky-monky crap going on using the picking at it approach you mentioned above , the main rule #1 Sgt. Scrooge repeated more times , all the time was to make dam sure you balled up hard as a soft rock , and plugged ALL possible lower region escape points for the slightest crumb of that crumby crap stuff ...

remember your in the factory owners manual Viscosity Charts 20W50 or greater Motor Oil climate zone all 12 months at your paticular GPS grid there ...fyi this matters greatly , on ANY Land Cruiser engine a and you have found one negative result of NOT obeying this concrete black and white rule printed in any modle year factory owners manual , that black goo , you had to deal with up in the top-end forms in-part from too low a viscosity convential motor oil along with the lack of change intervals factor too , and the overall quality of

the 1989 FJ62 USA-Spec. Glove box owners manual , just like the 1989 FJ62 FSM combined PHONE BOOK size spec/ editiion has the most comprehensive and updated tech and spec. data from 1988 & 1989 Oarnge and White Owner Manual , the 1990 combined FSM is even more wide range better and thicker page wise too , same goes for the 1989- and 1990 FJ62 oowners manual ...

- the one UNICORN loose in the wild and not yet tamed enough for my paper print media knowlege is power one-stop-shop until only just after onlime store open era first Rodeo dayz , is this :

- i did a 5 times blink my eyes take , to process the info on front cover , one i confirmed the Factory Publcation part # was a ligit entity out there at one time and same subjet matter title , i siezed the moment even when not actuaully knowing the full scope of what is was now on my way from the non-usa-far-away destination market region


this in-fact did become and is now even more since my girl the GHOST won my heart ... , one of the top 5 most action-packed relevent TECHNICAL and beyond refrence-resource paper print media materials any thing oem toyota publication #'s in my clutches at the moment , i refer to it and sift through the pages more then several times a week , every week ......

 

[majdomo]

ok ,

this IS the FJ62 ATM temp sensor in question right ?

- ignore the color of the nylon housing , focus on the profile / shape topic ONLY , let me know if i got this one spot on or not ?

- i know the broad brush topic at play here , this sensor in paticular , the all OEM parts solution is in my hand as we speek too ,,,

- i DO have ALL the male and female Connetors related to the FJ62 Neutral safty switch if you need any parts of them in any way ?

- if you need a longer or diffent pitch and orf diamiter spring here i MAY be able to help , my giant PLANO single thick clear tackle box os packed the gills with ONLY oem toyota find ir ROLLING on the dept. floor NOS ground scores and beyond ...

.
- clarify the broken part or parts related to the EGR valve please ?


View attachment 3351084

That's the one. I do have a used spare at the moment, we'll see if it's needed.

 

[majdomo]

also , you need to examine with a 2x / 5x combo magifine glass both the TPS and AFM / MAF HARNESS side connector plugs , BOTH were in-fact CRACKED on GHOST when i scooped her up ,. no issues untill i changed the UN-KNOWN thin 5w-30 black tar color SHELL ROTILLA convential motor oil that i was so proudly shown multi-tiers of at the sellers shop metal wall cabinet packed top gills of exactly that " Stuff " ....

- have you re-installed the valve cover yet for good ,, as in done ? or is it finger tight loose still ?

here on east coast at least , at Dealership we ran accros alot of the exact scenerio you did upon popping the lid off like that for a un-related but needed reason to do so , and the first time i was finally granted permission by my first ever Team Leader Team i nick-named Sgt. Scrooge , he gave me a actual fundimental hands-on lesson i will never forget and still use when i need to apply it , the results of a full size-spec. HEPPA-BAG use feature HOSE BELOW the lid , NOT part of it HOME DEPOT shop-vac , " little exhaust port Muffler thinngy " installed too is a MUST , you can carefully and more over safely remove end eliminate a solid 97% of any starting point fosilized fossile fuel based motor oil funky-monky crap going on using the picking at it approach you mentioned above , the main rule #1 Sgt. Scrooge repeated more times , all the time was to make dam sure you balled up hard as a soft rock , and plugged ALL possible lower region escape points for the slightest crumb of that crumby crap stuff ...

remember your in the factory owners manual Viscosity Charts 20W50 or greater Motor Oil climate zone all 12 months at your paticular GPS grid there ...fyi this matters greatly , on ANY Land Cruiser engine a and you have found one negative result of NOT obeying this concrete black and white rule printed in any modle year factory owners manual , that black goo , you had to deal with up in the top-end forms in-part from too low a viscosity convential motor oil along with the lack of change intervals factor too , and the overall quality of

the 1989 FJ62 USA-Spec. Glove box owners manual , just like the 1989 FJ62 FSM combined PHONE BOOK size spec/ editiion has the most comprehensive and updated tech and spec. data from 1988 & 1989 Oarnge and White Owner Manual , the 1990 combined FSM is even more wide range better and thicker page wise too , same goes for the 1989- and 1990 FJ62 oowners manual ...

- the one UNICORN loose in the wild and not yet tamed enough for my paper print media knowlege is power one-stop-shop until only just after onlime store open era first Rodeo dayz , is this :

- i did a 5 times blink my eyes take , to process the info on front cover , one i confirmed the Factory Publcation part # was a ligit entity out there at one time and same subjet matter title , i siezed the moment even when not actuaully knowing the full scope of what is was now on my way from the non-usa-far-away destination market region


this in-fact did become and is now even more since my girl the GHOST won my heart ... , one of the top 5 most action-packed relevent TECHNICAL and beyond refrence-resource paper print media materials any thing oem toyota publication #'s in my clutches at the moment , i refer to it and sift through the pages more then several times a week , every week ......

Valve cover is all installed, with new OEM PCV and associated hoses. It should be good to go.

 

[majdomo]

Update from today - after tearing into the harness, tracking wires, crawling under the rig, looking under the dash and so on.... looks like the real culprit after all is the neutral safety switch. Finally just jumped terminal 1 from one side of the plug coming out of the harness, to terminal 1 from the other plug from the harness and then switching the ignition to ON. Lo and behold, the backup lights worked just fine by avoiding the switch altogether.

I can't quite figure out how the contacts inside the NSS work, since the continuity on the contacts doesn't make sense. The wires that would need to be bridged are across from each other lengthwise, which means the the contact tab would never touch both sides to activate the backup lights by connecting those two contacts. It probably connects up through some other means inside the switch which is broken. The rig still starts, however, which is ultimately probably more important at this stage. If I find one out there will just pick it up when I'm able.

In other news, changed the oil in the 135i for the first time today, and had an Exxon Valdez-level spill when the pan went sliding off the jack platform. It's always something.

 

[majdomo]

Brief update - will be posting this for sale this weekend, for an out of state buyer. I'm not sure this is going to pass smog in CA and don't really have the time to figure it out. It's a bummer but that's what happens sometimes.

If anyone's interested, PM me and we can discuss.

 

[Spike Strip]

Gallon of Denatured Alcohol and a couple gallons of E-85 into an almost empty tank (2-3 gallons) works wonders, I'm told...