Builds Gen. Waverly (1 Viewer)

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where did you get the new dash pad? looks great
From the dealer. Culver City Toyota ran a Black Friday sale and it's been sitting in my garage for the last 4 months. (BTW - not my favorite parts counter, their staff leaves a lot to be desired, but they do have good pricing at times.) However I think the only one that's available is the gray one for the FJ62, not sure about the brown or either color for the 60.
 
Ham antenna mounted and rolling. Had a couple of short QSOs on a few local repeaters on the drive in, but this still needs some tweaking.

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Tech for dummies this am - my sun visors were very difficult to swivel down away from the roof, and was in the process of almost bending the visor coming in to work yesterday trying to keep the sun out of my eyes. Thinking these were frozen in place, I started researching replacements, and noted that using the 70 series replacement visors requires you to reuse the arms from the original ones (assuming the brittle plastic isn't busted) by removing the set screw and pulling out the arm. However, the set screw also controls the resistance on the arm as you swivel it up and down. Literally 10 seconds of adjusting later and mine were in great shape, no issues twisting them up and down, saved me $100.

In case needed down the road, p/n's for the 70 series replacements, you need to reuse the arm from your existing visors:
74310-90K10-08
74320-60290-A0

Have also been chasing down this vibration that keeps cropping up around 55 mph. Was just about to order the transfer rebuild kit from Georg @orangefj45 yesterday, but was able to chat with him before placing the order. His thought is that it may be the torque converter and glazing on the lockout clutch. I bought some Shudder Fixx on his recommendation, running this for about 100 mi before ordering a kit. It cleaned up some of the vibration and the truck is definitely quieter and shifts better, but the low level hum is still there and sticks around regardless of road surface (thinking it was maybe tires, still might be) and whether the truck is in neutral or 3rd at about 55. Still have another 50 miles or so, we'll see how it goes. Big thanks to Georg for the advice and suggestions!

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Tech for dummies this am - my sun visors were very difficult to swivel down away from the roof, and was in the process of almost bending the visor coming in to work yesterday trying to keep the sun out of my eyes. Thinking these were frozen in place, I started researching replacements, and noted that using the 70 series replacement visors requires you to reuse the arms from the original ones (assuming the brittle plastic isn't busted) by removing the set screw and pulling out the arm. However, the set screw also controls the resistance on the arm as you swivel it up and down. Literally 10 seconds of adjusting later and mine were in great shape, no issues twisting them up and down, saved me $100.

In case needed down the road, p/n's for the 70 series replacements, you need to reuse the arm from your existing visors:
74310-90K10-08
74320-60290-A0

Have also been chasing down this vibration that keeps cropping up around 55 mph. Was just about to order the transfer rebuild kit from Georg @orangefj45 yesterday, but was able to chat with him before placing the order. His thought is that it may be the torque converter and glazing on the lockout clutch. I bought some Shudder Fixx on his recommendation, running this for about 100 mi before ordering a kit. It cleaned up some of the vibration and the truck is definitely quieter and shifts better, but the low level hum is still there and sticks around regardless of road surface (thinking it was maybe tires, still might be) and whether the truck is in neutral or 3rd at about 55. Still have another 50 miles or so, we'll see how it goes. Big thanks to Georg for the advice and suggestions!

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Thanks for the call, glad that helped!

We see a lot of 60 & 62s with a mild to moderate “hum” and resonance/vibration.
If the shudder fix doesn’t take care of it completely ( obviously this only applies to FJ62s ), then have a good look at the rear drive shaft. First check the slip joint for up-and-down play, then REMOVE ( don’t just check in place ) the drive shaft and feel the u-joints.
We have Japanese made joints in stock.

Typically, we recommend that you change your oil every 3000-3500 miles. At that time, you should also check your front wheel bearings AND grease the drive shafts.

Happy to help.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
Sales@valleyhybrids.com
Shop 209-475-8808
 
New shoes to help with the vibration issues. Didn’t quite eliminate it but pushed it up to a higher speed and they are WAY quieter on the freeway. Defender LTX M/S, based on lots of reviews on Mud.

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New FJ40 project inbound. Burn the boats, the 62 is the daily for a while :)
 
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Transfer case rebuild time. Not hard but when dealing with East coast rigs, you end up with a few busted bolts as steel loves to fuse with aluminum when you leave it for 37 years. Ugh. Anyway it's mostly torn down as of tonight, only suffered 2 busted bolts and was able to retrieve both studs from the case with a pair of vise-grips, luckily. One snapped bolt and it was directly to fire for me today, saved my bacon at least 3 times.

Some photos of the teardown. The idler shaft was also practically fused to the rear half of the case, took some BFH persuasion to get it to come out.

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Just before removing the front half.
Note that I did need to drop the trans a little to get clearance for the rear half of the case. The input gear was on there pretty good, I bought the long-necked idler gear from Cruiser Bros @orangefj45, but it's not likely that I'll need it. Going to install it anyway just because it's here.

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And here's what I'm hoping is the culprit of my vibration... this is the rear spacer, the front spacer looks worse. Needle bearings looked ok but had some wear, input shaft bearing moved nice and smooth.

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Front spacer. This is probably 0.5mm or so.

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Nuts and bolts graveyard. That busted bolt in the middle cost me 2 hours, but thankfully I didn't need to drill it out of the case like I'd feared.

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More cleaning off gasket surfaces tonight, then hopefully back together tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
 
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Transfer case rebuild complete. Didn't get any photos on the reassembly, as I was concentrating on following the FSM (give it a solid B+ - some better procedures in there, but a few confusing parts that put items out of order if you are doing a full rebuild). But, it's back together and it works! As with all of these chases for the vibration, this took away even more of it, but it's still there at speed ever so slightly. However, I think this has diminished it more than the other steps I've taken, so that's positive. My coffee mug doesn't rattle like crazy on the drive in to work.

I've ordered some new rear brake drums, time to get after the rear brakes. The drums look original to the truck, and are likely out of round plus they have a nasty lip on them that indicates they are due for replacement. I've had replacement shoes in the garage since at least last summer, so time to get those installed. (Plus it could also be contributing to some vibration, but who knows.)

I really also want to dig into the new FJ40 project, but this weekend it's going to rain in LA (again - why do I deal with alllll the Kalifornia bs if not the weather??), so that will likely have to wait another week while I do brakes and an oil change on the :princess:'s Highlander.
 

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